karlooz

any room for spark plug change, polyrib belt change and engine protection plate install or are there too many people showing up saturday?

what should i bring? jack, stands, sockets, what else?

Do I really need to pull the front wheel carriers out with the front struts?  Removing the lower ball joints and releasing them seems a bit unnecessary.  Is this really needed to do to swap springs?

Secondly, if this IS needed to do...where can I get special tool #9560??  How much?

TIA.

Chad

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have you seen kevin m.'s write up?

spring install

looks like you don't need to disassemble the wheel carriers. the hard part is pulling the shock down low enough to clear the fender. i wasn't able to do this when swapping my springs so i ended up removing it all. i think you can make good use of a long pry bar for some leverage to get the shock low enough if you aren't successful doing it by hand.

i'll be doing this again very soon. just received my h&R coilovers from tire rack woo hoo!

There is a work on cars day January 15th in San Jose.  Keys will be there.  Look at the section on this board for the details.

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oops, just read the work on cars day post, NO oil changes.

There is a work on cars day January 15th in San Jose.  Keys will be there.  Look at the section on this board for the details.

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anyone changing spark plugs, polyrib belt and oil?

anyone in the south bay - mid peninsula have stereo removal keys? got a new deck but i forgot to order the removal keys, duh.

i have the hi-fi, 6x40watt amp in my '99 996. i am planning on bypassing the amp altogether but retaining the original wiring and splicing the preamp wiring to the post amp. i'll be substituting the gawd awful porsche deck with a pioneer 4x50watt deck.

TIA

:cheers:

I have a 99 996 and the (black) paint is coming off the calipers in a few spots. It kinda looks like someone did a poor job of bleeding the brakes and let fluid run down the calipers.

Anyway, I have seen several kits for sale to re-paint them. Has anyone done this or used any kits that are available on the market? If so, which and how did it work? Any info, difficulty level, watchouts and tips would be very helpful.

Thanks

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i painted my calipers using high temp spray paint. got it from auto zone. they actually sell it as caliper paint and comes in several colours. it was much easier, cleaner and look like it was done at the factory. can't say the same for the brush on kits. the brush on kits are also a rip off. they are 30~50 bucks where you can get the canned stuff for 5.

if you are just touching up then it is super easy. just clean with brake cleaner, mask what you don't want painted (like the porsche script) and spray away.

if you are respraying the calipers a differtent colour then it will take a some more work (not too much though) and some patience . clean the calipers thoroughly, mask then spray. careful, many thin coats are better than one thick coat (less chance of the paint sagging). if you are applying high temp vinyl decals then its a no brainer. i, however, did it the hard way. i used the decal's negative as a mask then sprayed the porsche script in silver (no white available) so that it is permanent.

another tip - if you are replacing the rotors, spray the rotor hats (i used silver) to prevent them from rusting.

hope this helps.

c :thumbup:

I had intended to write in with this same question after I got my 1996 996 in December of 2003.  The car had only 15K on the clock when I bought it.  I noticed "the smell" which as best I can describe it, was (is) very much like the smell of burning rubber, like overheated electrical insulation, but not quite as pungent.  Not like burning oil, I have owned many earlier 911s from '76s through the SCs, and know what oil on the heat exchangers smells like...

The underside of my engine is dry as a bone, as far as I know there are no clutch issues, and I notice the smell from the driver's side wheel well nearly every time I drive the car.  Not sure I can suggest anything to cause it unless it be the cosmoline.

Just thought I'd chime in with another report to let the other posters know it does not seem to be an isolated problem.

Jim

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yup, same here and my '99 now has close to 60K. just wanted to chime in too.

loren,

actually i miss wrote. after clearing the CEL and starting up cold, the light does not come on. it may take a day for the CEL to come on but not upon cold startup but only when warm and driven a while.

anyhow, i'll check for loose wires and vacuum lines and maybe check out the relay.

thx again,

c

i have been driving with the CEL light on for the past month. i scanned it with an OBD II scanner and found it was triggered by the secondary air pump (error code 410). i haven't brought it in yet cause it only an emmission thang.

after finding out the cause of the CEL, i cleared it and low and behold the CEL was triggered again but only after the engine was warm and i had been driving a while.

i guess my question is should the secondary air pump even go on at all after it has been driven a while and cold. i notice/hear it go on at a stop after i get off the freeway. i thought it would only go on during a cold start up.

any ideas? does anyone notice the pump go on when warm?

tia

carlos :help:

i didn't know there was an adjustble lumbar support. i have that lumbar option but it is not adjustable. it's just a firmer, more supportive insert.

i too had a boxster and now own a c2 and i would agree to that sensation. i attribute it to the engine layout. the boxster feels tossable around the corners where the 996 is slow in fast out. the 986 does have better handling characterstics as evidenced by the mid engined carrera gt.

the 996 is deceptively quick though. it feels more solid, maybe due to the suspension substructure. because of this you get less of the visceral,raw feeling that you get with the 986. the rear end just digs in when you power out of a turn whereas with the boxster, i always felt like the rear end would just give way. i feel the 996 is more communicative in that respect.

i hope my ramblings made any sense :lol:

c

i got a subscription to alldata diy for procedures and torque specs for my spring install.

(no affiliation with alldata)

i suppose i should have used another term other than "flat spotting" but i couldn't find any other. i too have found that the colder it was the worse the condition.

could be your tires have flat spotted. the kumhos that i had on my boxster did the same thing.

i was wondering because the mintex pads i bought to replace the oem say asbestos free.

c

another view

hey scouser, here it is in action. worked great. i used the stock lift points and used the cross member for the jack stands.

Carlos 'karlooz' from Campbell switched from a 1998 Boxster to a 1999 C2 coupe.  Maybe he will chime in.

I still think a 996 cab looks like a fat Boxster. <_<

man, i do miss the convertible top sometimes. especially today when it was clear and the air was crisp. i will have to agree with jeff, i really don't care for the look of the 996 cab (heavy looking back end when the top down, it looks alright witht the top up).

if you absolutely have to have the drop top then get the 996. coming from a 2.5 boxster, you will be blown away by power of the 996. and hey, the '99 - '00 models have the same from end as the boxster.

my coupe feels so much more solid than the '98 boxster. the boxster felt like it was less rigid, causing all sort of squeaks and rattles. it may not be a fair comparison since a coupe is inherently more rigid than a cab.

my boxster, like yours had problem including a leaky RMS, clogged drain holes leading to flooding and a fried computer, a bad intermediate shaft bearing leading to a new engine and a split rear window in 60degree weather! whew. and it all was NOT covered under warranty though the engine was "good willed" the labour was not.

the boxster has excellent handling. the S has the fastest slalom of all time (R&T i think). you can whip it around yet i find it easier to get the tail to come around when pushed beyond its limits. the 996 feels heavier and does not feel as tossable but i can feel when i'm gonna lose it.

unless you get the coupe, i would imagine the cab has the same amount of wind and road noise as the boxster.

for a while i thought that between the two drop tops i would go for a boxster S but now after owning a C2i definitely would get the cab. you won't regret it. :drive:

whoops, this should have been placed in the DIY/How to section

or #20 in the front?

i would like to have either ends of my C2 in the air at the same time or even the whole car up at once. where can i safely use jackstands on a C2? not looking for lift points (at the 4 corners by the wheels) but jack stand points.

can i use the cross member (#19) in the rear?

thx loren,

time to get me a OBDII scanner.

i am experiencing a rough idle when warm. when cold, it runs smoother but think its due to the slightly higher idle rpm. claridge's diagnosed/guessed it was the MAF. i had it replaced but it still runs rough. could it be the o2 sensors, clogged injectors, carbon build up? would a bottle of techron help?

oh btw, they replaced the gas cap under the recall and now my CEL is on. the CEL was off before the recall "fix". funny, huh? :cursing:.

tia

c