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Randy_K

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Everything posted by Randy_K

  1. I'm very interested as to where the bumper came from as well. I think it's kewl!!! I have to pull the bumper and hood of mine to repaint it this summer. While at it, that would be a great way to prevent more work as, I don't have to sand down the chips out of the old one, primer, etc. Just replace. Randy
  2. Harry, On Pelican's site, JFP said that the car that flywheel came off of. Had the same or similar marks on the sensor and that is an after market lightweight flywheel. I have no idea what this thing has in it.(mine?) But I now understand, (kinda) It creates, in my opinion, an electromagnetic field/electrical signal because of it, that sends a signal upstream. I accidentally set an ink pen, with the top on it and the pocket holder attached next to the sensor and it stuck to it. What I'm not sure of. What part of this thing sits close to the flywheel. Given that it has a large plastic surround, around the metal rod and it is perfect. It's not my intention to drag this thread out. But I think how and why something works is important. It leads to why something doesn't. I love learning!!! Randy
  3. Thanks JFP. The starter sounds like a simple fix. As far as dating yourself. At 58, I'm not a "spring chicken". If that saying doesn't date me. I don't know what will?
  4. Successfully replaced the CPS Saturday morning with help from a fried with way more tools, smaller hands and younger. LOL It only took about 1.25 hours to do. Actually, the hardest part was getting the ring clip to release the keeps the wire from flopping around between the sensor and the other end/plug to the wiring. Working by blind there. I'm attaching a pic that shows the old sensor. It's not a great pic. There are grooves cut in it, like you could make with a small jewelers file. Couldn't get the flash to work on my camera. JFP suggested it may be an aftermarket flywheel causing them with a bent shutter element? Since I don't know when the flywheel was replaced, if ever? I know in the old days. It was typical to replace that when the clutch was replaced along with the pressure plate. I'd like a better understanding how these things work. The grooves that are worn in it, to me, look like electrical strike marks. Not mechanical. But like I said. I have now idea how this thing does what it does. The starter makes a squealing noise about 1 out of ten starts after the key is released. The Porsche shop I take it to here. Said that was a bushing in the starter that commonly wears and not to worry about it. Don't know if that could be the issue with the sensor or not? Randy
  5. I believe this is the post that Loren is referring to. Good luck, Randy
  6. Those do look really nice! I think I'm going to do this. But have to get my interior lights to work properly first! ;)
  7. Thanks Loren, Someone on Pelicans site, posted this pic for me. I hope it is helpful for the next guy doing this.
  8. Has anyone on here replaced there crank position sensor themselves? I have one coming and want to install it this weekend. But I am unable to find any DIY info on how. I have seen pictures of where it is located on Pelican. But still hard for me to tell. Since the picture of the postion of it is while the engine is on an engine stand. Can I get at it from the top of the engine compartment? Do I have to go at it from the bottom? Etc... What parts need to be removed to get to it. Pic's would be helpful. And what is you recommendation for the accomplishment beer when done? LOL Thanks for your help gentleman. Randy
  9. LMAO! Yep :cheers: Wanted to say. This is the best site I have found for reliable info, regarding these cars. If you're lurking and not donating, I would suggest, you donate. These guys are always gentleman and helpful. :renntech: I know from another site I used to work on. How much work is involved. Thanks Loren for your work!!!
  10. Ya, I have used Oklahoma Foreign Parts. When I bought it, the guy who had installed the front speakers was a tad impatient and the grills were shattered. Bought a set from Gary there. Great guy to deal with! But if I'm going through the effort to get to the sensor. It will be a new one that I replace it with. At the age mine is and not having any maintenance records. At least since 83,000 miles, that was the last time the Porsche dealer had seen it. It was probably somewhere else since then. But who knows? I'll save bucks when possible. If I can obtain the same results. But there is a breaking point like anything. Were it doesn't pay off. Kinda like me doing home plumbing repairs. Some plumber always gets paid for me fixing it. :( Thanks for your help guys! Randy
  11. Thanks JFP. Looking at the pic on this site. They are different. Oh well. Can't blame a guy for trying. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Bosch/Reference_Sensor/W0133-1607897.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain&intcmpid= Randy
  12. Does anyone know if this crank position sensor will work on a 1999 Boxster, 5 speed, 2.5L? I'm not cheap. But I am frugal. I see no reason to give $135.00 for something if, something else works for half the price. http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/88/bmw/m3/switches_sensors_and_senders/bosch_crank_position_sensor.html?3593=52078 Thanks, Randy
  13. Not sure if you'd call ABQ in the vicinity? But the only place here I trust is Hans Witlers. Link to them below. Honest and timely repairs. Andreas or Roger will fix you up. Just had my oil changed there for $100.00. Comnsidering. They put Mobil 1 synthetic, replaced the filter. I couldn't have done it myself for much less. http://www.hanswittlerauto.com/
  14. In an effort not to clutter up Loren's site with the same question being asked, in a new thread! :renntech: BB Did you resolve your problem? Mine was acting kinda strange. But just wrote it off as a quirk. Over the past few weeks. If I drove it much, it would start, but knda slowly get to the point of chugging then off and running. Starter turning normally, but like the engine would work it's way up to firing. And once running. The idle was erratic, until I goosed it, then it would settle in to a normal idle. If it was a quick in and out and start agian it was fine. But if stops where longer, then there was the slow start issue. But the temps have been pretty cold here, until today when it was quite a bit warmer, The temp gauge got up above the 180 mark where it hadn't been there before. Usually 180 or less. After leaving work and stopping for Papa Murphy's pizza and picking up some beer. Got home, unloaded and went back outside to check on it. Sure enough. It won't start.I don't have a Durametric yet. But I don't think it would show me anything different than what is discussed here. Just to similar of a problem. Thanks for the thoughts in advance... Randy Just wanted to add. The thing turns over fine and starts faster than my F150 when it's cold.
  15. Doh!!! :oops: Thanks for the heads up!!! :thankyou:
  16. Ok, Just found this info on another site. Is there some way that mine could have been put into this mode? Additionally I forgot to add. When you get in the car and close the door then turn the ignition to the on position. The light comes on for about a second then goes out. Hate to bug you guys. But things like this drive me nuts! :wacko: On the interior light, if you had a new car I would say that the delivery dealer had not changed the computer to the hand-over mode with PST2. When the car is shipped on the boat it is in the sleep mode to save the battery. The interior light will not go on unless the ignition key is turned on. With PST2 it is programed at delivery to function normally - but sometimes the dealer forgets to do this. My pure guess is that it was never done and the prior owner did not know better. Take it to any dealer and they will hook your car up to the PST2 and it will take a few seconds to find out if this is the problem. Please let me know if my guess is correct or if there is an electrical problem.
  17. Yep, pretty unbelievable. But like I said. I sold stereos for years and that is not the first time I have seen something like that. :censored: Just as a side note to people who may see this thread. There is no reason on this planet to use 12 GA wire to the speakers from a head unit like original installer used. There isn't near the current coming from it to justify it. 16 GA is fine. If you're coming out of a fairly high powered separate amp, then maybe? Randy
  18. Well, Having the stereo pulled out and re-installed by someone that new what they were doing. Didn't fix the problem. But figured it was worth a try. But all and all, was glad I did. This picture is a lesson on how not to install a stereo. Whom ever did this install needs to find a different line of work. But it's all cleaned up now and the stereo sounds 100% better. Next up is the ingnition switch. I'm ordering it from Pelican this week. So it well be the following weekend before I perform the DIY that K.Brandsma posted the link to. Thanks very much for your help. Randy
  19. Gotcha, Thanks. I pulled the cover off the ignition switch and it does look like it's the original. But I am not sure how to pull it out to look at the back. Is there a DWI on how to do that? In allot of ways. These cars seem so simple, Just enough to get a guy in trouble. LOL Randy
  20. Do you have any other unexplainable electrical issues. Sometimes a bad ignition switch causes other gremblins. The car battery is fine. It sat in well below freezing temps for a week and cranked right up. I measured the battery as well and it's reading 12+ volts. The car has 105k miles on it. But I don't see how that would effect this problem. Unless it has a IMS in the lighting system. :o I pulled the fuse cover off and this thing apparently has been to Audio Sparks. (Audio Express) I sold stereos for years. And there reputation proceeds them! It appears there are wires running underneath the carpeting to the rear that are not stock and lots of other things going on. I know it has after market speakers in it. Because who ever put those in? Was impatient in mounting them and busted the grills. I have since replace those. Thanks for the thought though. I'm going to call an a car audio installer that I used to work with that is very good at this. and see if he can figure out what the original installer was thinking when this was put in. Randy
  21. Ok, After further investigation. Neither front compartment light work or the rear unless the key is in the on position. I'm guessing here. But it has an after market Alpine radio in it. Wonder if the rocket scientist audio installer pulled the ignition to hook wires up to it and got something crossed? :wacko:
  22. This is a great DYI. Mine is 1999 and has exactly the same issues. Over the past few days, it has been below freezing here. Got in it this morning and it felt like I was driving with the emergency brake on. Bought it home, popped the hood and pulled back the carpeting round the power booster and heated it up with a heat gun. Everything was normal afterwords. I have another power booster coming this week and will be performing this procedure next Saturday. Mine is a left hand drive car so the brake lines from the master cylinder will have to be removed. But looks simple enough. Thanks for all the info!!! Randy :clapping: :clapping:
  23. Thanks gents. No other unexplainable electrical issues. At least that I am awre of. It's going to the best independent repair center in town on Monday for an oil change. I asked them to check it when I had it there a few weeks ago to get the brakes blead. Well of course it worked fine for them the whole time it was there. But will ask them about the PIWIS. I'll let you know the outcome. Have a great weekend and thanks for the input. :beer: Randy
  24. Well, It works now, kind of. Everything is fine as long as the ignition is in the on position. Not much help by then... <_<
  25. You need to be careful when using this glue as it expands and foams out from the surface you're gluing. You need to watch it and clean it up as it oozes out from the surface. But it is stronger than heck!
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