teeerex

Thanks for the review - Any Pictures ?

Is your car a C4 or C2 ? If it's a C4, then on my car (99) the fuel filter is strapped to the coolant tank in the engine bay ... So if you have a C4, make sure it's not their first before removing all the under panels ! :-)

I have a 997 with roughly 9000 miles on it and I've noticed that all four of my stock brake calipers are no longer the same black color as when the car was new. Rather they have an uneven discoloration to them, making them appear more grayish. Is this typical? I don't "ride" the brakes, but I'm worried that I may be overheating them.... The discs seem fine...

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Dave

has the car been tracked ? This is normal for calipars that get v.hot (re tracked car) - not normal for even fast road use. Are the rears the same as the fronts ?

.. also remember that you are not hitting varicam until the higher rev range - so may be related to that ?

I've got (and have had for some time now) a loud, metal on metal type clatter noise on startup. After trying various 'fixes' (oil weights, etc) I'm still hearing it. The sound lasts for approx ONE second, on COLD starts as the engine does its intial reving to 1-2K rpm upon turning on ignition. (only cold starts). The noise is almost grind-like, but could sound like a chain or clatter...

Never hear it after that initial start. Any chance that could be a loose/snapped "Timing chain tensioner"?

Brought to dealer, but could not replicate it for them.

Also, perhaps more importantly, assuming that is what it is, can I leave it alone...or will it worsen/damage other compenents.

Are you sure it's not just the hydraulic tappets refilling with oil pressure that you hear (perfectly normal). I found that using a very good quality oil with a high Ester content (such as Silkolene Pro S - this 'sticks' to the metal surface to add protection - similiar to 'Magnatec' but far better quality) and have experienced a much reduced 'clatter' at start up. The noise is still 'there' but not as alarming as hearing metal to metal if the car has been left for a week or so (like it did when it had Mobil 1 0w/40 in it ... ) <_<

.. not sure you would gain anything tbh - unless you wrapped the headers, cats and exhaust - they are all so close to each other and ALL in the engine bay so you would be insulating the heat in one place just for it to be released further down ... For front engine cars then yes you will reduce heat in the engine bay but can't see it being effective in a 911 ... :-(

Hi,

For anyone interested - this is from a 99 996 - installation is simple as it just bolts onto slots seen in the pics - As Loren says, problem may be that the wiring loom may not be there (incl the dash switch) so check this first.

Motor :

Motor end loom :

Fixing to the body shell :

I took mine off as I've stripped the car to save weight + I never used it even when it was on there ... :)

Wow - this is just stunning ...

http://www.porschemania.it/gallery/view_ph..._gt&id=000_0347

(13 Pictures btw - just scroll through them)

If it had the power to match, then IMO it would easily outsell the 911 ...

:-)

Whoops - wrong area - Loren, can you kindly move into the Cayman S area for me - sorry ...

I think you will find that you need 285 30 18 - it won't be right with 35's

I have 285's and they are fine - woth good wheels they are the business.

Rolling Circumference = 2063mm on the /35 and 1974mm on the /30

Overall Diameter = 657mm on the /35 and 628mm on the /30

IMO I would not use them as they will affect your speedo reading and geometry - not sure to what extent but why take the risk ? If you're car is under warranty, then Porsche will see that they are not 'standard' and not pay out if you claim on anything related...

all german parts sells textar pads which they say are oem -so are the same as the textar pads sold in that porsche box from sunset ? thanks, larry

They should be :-)

Only thing you may need to watch out for is the wear sensor - it may not be drilled on the textar pad.

Hello,

Some time ago the light from my temp gauge started blinking during a fast ride on the German Autobahn. And yes, as Izzy suggested, the car was low on coolant. I drove the car to my Porsche dealer and they explained what had happened. Due to high temperature the coolant hoses expand. The coolant level drops and the sensor 'detects' that the car is low on coolant.

I checked the car when the engine was cold. The coolant level was somewhere between min. and max. This expalins the flashing light. Happens more often according to Porsche. Bought some Porsche coolant and was given the advice to mix it with 50% water.

Question: Is it really necessary to mix the coolant with water and if so do I have to use demineralised water or not?

jo996

If you're just topping up then I wouldn't bother and use the antifreeze straight from the bottle. If you're refilling an empty system then yes it is important to use the correct mixture for corrosion prevention, freeze protection etc and pure water is actually more effective in heat transfer believe it or not. So filling 100% antifreeze is actually not good but for topping up IMO absolutely fine.

Hope this helps,

Richard.

MY 2002 996 oil filter installation question: When the filter element is installed on the engine, does it slide all the way up into the motor, or does it sort of hang in the air after "popping" onto the engine portion noted in green in the pic below?

The filter sits inside the oil filter housing that you unscrew from the engine (black 'oil filter' looking bit of plastic that sits on the right hand side under the engine (looking from behind) behind the sump.

Remove the filter housing - extract the paper filter (the bit in your photo),replace with the new one and screw it back.

That's all there is to it.

Richard.

Richard,

I sent you a PM...

Loren, fantastic, just what I needed - I knew there was another fixing there somewhere !

Many Thanks,

Richard.

Hi all,

I'm hoping somebody has some experience of this and can help me out please ...

I've removed most of the a/c from my 99 C4 in an effort to reduce weight (car is mostly stripped so decided to remove the a/c in a 'mad moment'..)

Anyway, I've removed everything but can't seem to remove the compressor (the heavy bit!) from the engine. I've changed the V-Belt to the non-a/c one, undone the two bolts on the front of the compressor (they snapped mind you but no big deal until I decide to put it back..), undone all the hoses but the compressor is still held in place. It's 'loose' but seems to be fixed at the back somehow. It moves from side to side, but not up and down.

Does anybody know if there is a third bolt anywhere and can you can get to it without dropping the engine to remove the inlet pipes ? I've removed half of the throttle body in an effort to see the problem but can't see what is keeping it fixed in place.

Many Thanks,

Richard.

Having done this myself on a C4 (front and rear, with plenty of posts on it btw) - a lot depends on how level the car is - only a few degrees out will mean a 'lot' is left in the transmission. I actually measured the amount I got out to see if it was as expected and raised the front of the car some more as it was less that I though, and low and behold - got another 200ml out this way. Then I only put back in exactly the same quantity that I got out + 50ml or so. If I recall it was just below the filler plug level wise. The front tranny being smaller, didn't seem to be that fussy on drain angle.

Just out of interest P1999, why would overfilling by a small amount be bad ?

Richard.

Many Thanks Loren, as always fast and accurate info !

I'm going to study the fronts tomorrow, I swear they are identical !

Thanks again,

Richard.

Car - MY99 996C4.

Hi,

I've bought some Porsche wheels off e-bay which I intend to use on track with track tyres - the offsetsize etc is the same as my current set as follows :-

10Jx18 - ET65

7.5Jx18 - ET50

So no issues there that I can see, however, two things worry me - one they are 993.xxx part numbers and two, the front wheels are different part numbers as follows :-

Rears - 993.362.140.04 (both)

Fronts - 993.362.134.05 and the other is .06

One feels slightly heavier than the other and the spokes are different construction (is one a hollow spoke?)

Question is - would it be OK to use one of each on a single axle, would the weight different really count ? (Can't be more than 0.5Kg or so...).

I assume offset/size is all that matters with wheels, so 993.xxx wheels are fine (on a 996) ?

Any advice would be most welcome ...

Thanks,

Richard.

The belt for a car without a/c is 996 102 151 65.

In the US a/c is standard. I have spoken to 2 Boxster owners who have converted their cars to track only and the a/c was removed. I did not ask the wieght savings.

Great - Many Thanks Toolpants just the info I was after.

Regards,

Richard.

Hi - I only use my car for track days and very occasional road use and have therefore stripped the rear completly to reduce the weight (some 60Kg's so far). I was wondering what sort of weight reduction I would get by removing the A/C system from the car. Here in the UK, a/c isn't really needed on the road, yet alone on track so losing it will not be a hardship.

I guess removing the front a/c condensors and under car pipework should not be too much grief, but I would also want to remove the a/c pump from the engine. I guess I would need a shorter belt ? Has anybody done this before and do you know if the belt is a standard part ? (could you order a 996 without a/c ? I know you can for a GT3, but that's a different lump ...). Any other pitfalls ?

Car is a 996 C4 (yes I know, not an ideal track car, but it's all I have ...) :-)

Many Thanks,

Richard.

After the spark plug, coil and wiring have been checked the OBD II manual suggests:

Possible mechanical causes of faults

Valve lifter chattering.

This is caused by dirt in the valve lifter.

When the Check Engine MIL lights up, a chattering valve lifter may also occur for a certain time. The DME control module registers (sporadic) misfiring at one or more cylinders. The adaptation values of areas 1 and 2 are normal.

Remedy

1. Remove lifter bores, check for damage and blowout oil passages.

2. Replace all valve lifters (engine installed).

3. During the test drive, listen for valve lifter noises.

Camshaft control badly adjusted.

The camshaft control has changed. No chattering noises occur. The DME control unit indicates misfiring for the entire cylinder bank 1 or 2. The adaptation values in area 1 differ in bank 1 and bank 2 (e.g. TRA=0.02/TRA2=0.27), the ada ptation values for area 2 are generally normal.

Remedy

1. Reset camshaft control.

2. Road test vehicle. The adaptation values should be normal.

VarioCam does not switch over completely.

Cases have occurred in which the VarioCam of one bank was mechanically faulty. In these instances, the VarioCam had not switched over completely from power to torque valve timing.

An indication of this problem is misfiring detected by the DME control module in the range of 1200 - 1500 rpm occurring in an entire bank.

The adaptation values of areas 1 and 2 are normal.

Remedy

1. Replace VarioCam.

2. Road test vehicle.

Fantastic reply Loren - Many Thanks indeed !

This site really is THE best Porsche Technical site on the net...

Richard.

Hi - I've done a search on the error code P0301 and nothing definative has come up.

Got the CEL light code P0301 (Cyl 1 Misfire) - when just crusing on the motorway - constant misfire when under load. The plugs and new variocam were replaced recently so don't think it will be them - plug coils wern't replaced though. Engine now makes a horrible very load ticking mechanical sound - sounds to me like a lifter has given up - is this head of ?

Car is at the dealer now (under Porsche Warranty) but just wondered if you guys have any advice ?

For example - as the Pcode clearly says 'Cat Damaging' do I have a good case for them replacing the Cat as well as the engine component ? If it is the lifter, do you think it would be wise to replace them all if the engine is out/dropped anyway ? Although a coil pack failure would obviously cause a misfire, would it create the horrible ticking noise ?

Many Thanks guys !

Richard.

Ps - 996 3.4 C4

As promised - I'm updating the post as I managed to loosen the front diff filler bolt in the end ...

I raised the car higher than I did for the rear transmission to give myself some leverage on the breaker bar. My MY99 used one 17mm filler bolt and another 17mm drain bolt (with magnet inside) - I managed to damage the filler bolt last time around with a multipoint socket but managed to get a impact socket (hex only) socket on there nice and tight.

Remove the front underbody plastic shroud - 4 nuts, 6 'clips' (mind your eyes taking these out!)

The secret is to remove one of the cross members (see below - 16mm Bolts) and use a 15cm approx extension bar on the socket to give you clearance into the gap you just created.

I then used exactly the same method as the rear - drain off the old oil, replace drain bolt and pump in the new using my modified bug sprayer - I warmed the oil more this time (almost 'hot') and it flowed very quickly into the filler hole.

This pic shows the filler hole with the now removed cross member. The cross member 16mm bolts were in the region of 100-120 Nm to undo so I did them up to a similiar torque ... :-)

Put back plastic shroud, remember to slot into middle shroud and line up with clip slots before you tighten the nuts. (don't overtighten, they are only plastic..)

I hope this helps somebody out with a C4...

Cheers,

Richard.

Side trims come off after removing some hidden screws - devious one is right by the seat belt guide - took me ages to find that one. Trim them pops off with a good yank (also uses friction holds). You'll also need to remove all the heavy sound deadining foam from around that rear suspection mount area - rear carpet 'may' need to come forward. You also 'may' need to remove the rear selt belt roll holder to get to the mount - not sure. I've totally stripped the back of my 996 from the front seats back - so happy to post a pic of it if that is of any use to you - this should show the mount. It's a narrow body mind you, but should give you some ideas..

For those interested - all that carpet and trim weights in at 50Kg ... :-o

Richard.

Any way to leave the seats out and have it look decent?

Anything from a GT3 that'll work?

Bill

Hi - don't really care what it looks like - I sit in the front ! :D

The sound, oh the sound - even with a crash helmet on, that flat 6 sounds like a GT3 Cup car when she hits the sweet spot ... and that's with a standard exhaust.

Could get the 'light weight' GT3 carpet (but have you seen the price!) :eek: but it'll only add weight. My car is 99.5% track only, so I've done away with all the creature comforts ... tempted to take out the a/c but think that may be pushing the borderline ...

Pics as promised ...

[

Greetings all,

I am about to have a shop install a set of Bilstein HD's on

my 2002 C4S. It looks to me as though the hard part could

be finding access to the upper mounting nuts for the rear

shocks.

I presume you do that from inside, but how do the trim

pieces and carpet come off?

Just yank on 'em?

I'd like to give the guys a clue before they get into it.

(And this is a friend of mine who knows what he is

doing, he just hasn't done one of these particular

cars before. )

I appreciate your time and attention.

Best,

- Mark

Side trims come off after removing some hidden screws - devious one is right by the seat belt guide - took me ages to find that one. Trim them pops off with a good yank (also uses friction holds). You'll also need to remove all the heavy sound deadining foam from around that rear suspection mount area - rear carpet 'may' need to come forward. You also 'may' need to remove the rear selt belt roll holder to get to the mount - not sure. I've totally stripped the back of my 996 from the front seats back - so happy to post a pic of it if that is of any use to you - this should show the mount. It's a narrow body mind you, but should give you some ideas..

For those interested - all that carpet and trim weights in at 50Kg ... :-o

Richard.

Hi,

I'm just following the DIY for changing my brake fluid - it advises removing as much old fluid as possible from the resevoir. I assume this is to avoid wastage in mixing old and new fluid ? I'm using an empty pressure bleeder to just remove the old fluid via a normal bleed nipple at the moment - I'm down to the 'min' mark but have noticed a black large diameter plastic pipe coming from the right of the resevior. Should I go below this for less wastage or will this introduce air into the clutch via this pipe ?

Many Thanks,

Richard.