1schoir

Hi Respirologyrc,

I just replaced my coolant tank but I don't see how you could have done it without lifting up the car because one of the connector on the tank is clamped from underneath the car. I don't see how you could have removed this clamp from inside the trunk. I'm just curious, but can you please explain how you were able to do this.

Thanks.

Sactown:

I don't know if this is how Respirologyrc did it, but there is a way to reach the clamps from inside the trunk. I used this method when I had to replace my coolant tank (MY 97 Boxster).

If you pull back the carpeting in the rear trunk, on the firewall behind the engine, you will see a large rubber plug (about 5 inches in diameter), down near the base of the coolant tank and to the left of it (there is a bundle of wires running through the plug). If you pull that plug backwards and off the hole in the firewall, you can see the clamps and reach your hand and/or long needlenose or hose clamp pliers through there to access some of the clamps. A little silicone around the perimeter of that plug helps to squeeze it back in place. It does give you additional access and a good view of what has to be done in there.

Regards, Maurice.

Hello,

Before you say"battery" it ain't dead. Twisting the key does absolutely nothing, everything works, just doesn't crank at all.

However, If I take the relay in the trunk out,...the key is twisted to start. ALSO, the clutch switch is jumped, not an issue.

This has been an intermittent problem while I've had the car up for mods. (nothing that is related to this circuitry that I know of).

Ideas??

PK

Fixed It !!!! (Not really sure how though)

Poured over the wiring diagrams for hours, figure out where there should be voltages, weren’t there. Made some jumps here and there, got the voltages…still wouldn’t start.

Checked all the grounds, O.K. Id had the Motronic computer thing out (checking pin assignments for sc install) couple days before, looked like I’d put it back correctly, took it back out anyway & opened it up, solid state, nothing to do in there but damage.

Cleaned all the pins with a wire brush. Plugged the harness connector in and out a few times (helps insure good contacts). Buttoned everything in good. Twisted the key, resigned to the silence I’d heard so much of today…Vaarroooom!!!

PK

Such pros, not Hemingway but…

Nothing, no matter how well crafted, beats the sweet sound of success!

I admire your perseverance!

Regards, Maurice.

Usually that means the connection is open - not connected.

Like someone remove the steering wheel and forgot to hook it back up - or broke the clock spring on the steering wheel connection.

Best take the steering wheel off and have a look -- with the battery disconnected and the key OUT of the ignition.

Loren:

Thanks for the info. I will remove the steering wheel and examine those components closely and post results.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks everyone for all your feedback. Taking everyone's advice, I went checked all the spark plugs again nd did find one that was not connected all the way. I've also replaced the socket connector that was slightly torn. Lastly, I disconnected the negative cable to the battery as Maurice suggested and the engine warning light went away.

Thanks again everyong for you help!

Good job, Sactown!

Regards, Maurice.

I'm a fairly new 986 owner and plan to drive my car to Florida for Thanksgiving (+/- 1600 mi's). Trying to put together some tools to carry in the trunk and asking for what you'd add to the list, and more importantly....why?

Anyway, here's what I have so far:

Bentley

Fuses

Multi-Meter

Hex Sockets

Star Sockets

Ratchets - Extensions

Hammer

Open End Wrenches

Wire Cutter - Wire

Door Panel Tool (works great on convertible top ball ends)

Torque Wrench

Screw Drivers (offset also)

Knife

Pliers (straight, channel locks)

Got what I consider to be the almost "perfect" bag to carry them..........

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/5200-15.html

You might want to add one of those small, cigarette lighter plug-driven air compressors to inflate your tires if necessary. You can get a small, inexpensive one at Harbor Freight Salvage (.com).

Regards, Maurice.

Hi All,

No doubt this has already been answered but hear tis..

I have a 2003 Boxster with approx 30K miles. I'm going in for my 30K maintanance soon (shudder) and wondered if I should have the AOS looked at/replaced ?

The is no smoke from the exhaust under most all driving conditions including an occasional Auto-X.

However, I've noticed that if the car sits for a several days (5 days the last time) it will belch out quite a bit of thick bluish-white smoke on startup. This only lasts for a second or two. Mind you, the motor fires right up without any trouble and goes through it's normal initial idle program.

I'm tending to think this is "normal" but any insight would be helpful.

Thanks.

I believe your year Boxster has the "improved" or updated version of the AOS. Do a search for AOS and you should find a clear explanation of how to identify the difference between the two versions.

Here is a link to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages that will explain everything you might ever want to know about the AOS and that also shows you the install procedure and a couple of photos that show the difference between the two versions: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement

The early versions are a repair waiting to happen, while the later ones are not as problematic.

Regards, Maurice.

Folks -- if you have seat belt codes fix those first. That fix also includes fixing the grounds which could cause many other faults.

Well, I have now replaced both seat belt buckles and installed/spliced/soldered all of the "gold plated and greased" leads and the ground leads that come in the "service set belt buckle" on both sides of the car. It was a straightforward procedure once the steps in the TSB were translated into real world language. I've got lots of photos and may do a write up of that procedure when I get some time.

The good news is that I have now gotten rid of all the seat belt related fault codes that it was previously exhibiting. :clapping:

The bad news is that I still have the Fault Code 21 (ignition circuit driver- Repair Infomation: This code applies to the driver airbag, and the connection between the steering wheel and the airbag) and that after I clear it with the Durametric unit, the airbag light comes back on, along with the code, although now, instead of reappearing instantaneously, there seems to be a lag of 2 seconds before it reappears (could be my imagination). :o

Any additional info as to specific points where the driver airbag connections between the steering wheel and airbag would be appreciated. The last time I had it open, I thought there was only one connection between the airbag and the steering wheel. Am I missing something?

Regards, Maurice.

Just wanted to say hi. Picked up a 04 CTT about 6 weeks ago (Wife talked me into it) Every time I went to a dealer to look at 996 Turbo X50 cars and go for a test drive she was in a Cayenne. so she got a new ride and I'm still looking for a X50 car to replace my 06 SLK55 AMG

Below are a few photos of my rides

06 C55 AMG and a 91 XJR-s

Congrats! Is the forthcoming 996 going to be silver too?

Regards, Maurice.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement

Isn't that for a Boxster....?

Yes, you're right. Sorry about that. The procedure is similar for a 996 but not exactly the same.

This is great information. Do you happen to know the diff from 996 vs. boxster? Thanky you.

Adam:

Check out the following thread regarding AOS replacement on a 996, it has a little more information that might be helpful to you: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=16272&hl=

Regards, Maurice.

For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon

Typhon:

In your case, it sounds like your regulator cable fraying, rather that the outer sheath crumpling. Kind of surprising with only 6K miles, though. Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

This is it guys, finally got all the pieces back from my painter. Here is some pictures :D

Panameras:

The pieces look really good. Thanks for sharing photos.

Could you be sure to post photos of the car when everything has been installed?

Before and After would be even better.

I know how much work it was for you to take everything out in one piece. I also know you will probably enjoy the reassembly process a lot more!

Good Luck!

Regards, Maurice.

Apologies for ignorance, but did a search and did not find a clear instruction as to how to use the Durametric cable. Have just received the cable and want to check out my pesky check engine light problem. Do I have to have the car warmed up and fully operating at runnng temp before I plug the cable/computer to the car or is there a specific procedure involved to get the readings for the Durametric.

Thanks in advance.

Harold:

There is no need to have the engine running or to have it warmed up to read and to reset a check engine light with the Durametric.

All you have to do is plug the USB cable into a USB port on your computer, plug the other end of the Durametric cable into the OBDII port (under the left side of the dash, just above, forward of, and to the left of your left knee if you are sitting in the driver's seat) and just turn the ignition to "ON", without starting the car.

Then you select your model and year and go from there.

Be sure to make a note of what codes you have before you clear them, although Durametric also keeps a log in one of your computer files for reference.

Regards, Maurice.

Alrighty, thanks man. Tore it apart and sure enough, there was another little bumpstop.

Unfortunately some time during this whole ordeal my Airbag light came on. I tried disconnecting the battery for several hours and it's still on.

How can I go about turning that light off and why do you suppose it's come on? I did reconnect the battery with the airbag disconnected to test the regulator per the instructions on here. Did I not completely reattach the connector? Any ideas?

Thanks!

Only way to turn the airbag light off is with a PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric tool. Durametric is highly recommended, and reasonably priced for its functions. In my personal experience, customer service and technical support has been first class.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi, can anyone direct me to DIY disabling handbrake sensor to the softtop?

It is annoying when you need to get the softtop up without completely stopping the car, pulling on the handbrake eg when in slow moving traffic.

Porsche Service Australia won't provide me with details...

If this is a simple "trick" like taping up Pin 18 from the relay - where abouts is this relay?

All the above relates to my Boxster S. Many thanks for any relpy that can help.

BoXsTeR S :-)

Here is a photo of the location of the (double) relay (a/k/a convertible top control module), just above the fuse panel at the left kickpanel, (beneath the dashboard).

Photo is courtesy of Tool Pants:

It's the double relay with the small black square, third row up from bottom (no relays in bottom row), second from right. It takes some pulling to get it off the first time.

Regards, Maurice.

1schoir,

Thank you for the very informative reply. I will be ordering the regulator this week.

Jared

Jared:

As the window regulators come in different states of readiness (referring to the bump stops only), make sure that yours does not have the TWO bump stops already installed.

If it does, just remove the upper one. If you get the extra bump stop parts (rivet or screw, plastic bump stop and little rubber sleeve for the bump stop), just don't install the parts for that one and you will have the correct height for your 996 when the window is at its lowest point. Otherwise it will remain about 1 and 1/2 inches not retracted into the door.

Here is a photo of the two bump stops at the base of the forwardmost leg of the regulator. Circled in red is the upper one (that I was in the process of installing for my Boxster, showing the rivet inserted and the bump stop and rubber sleeve on the side). Do not install that one, or remove it if it comes already installed.

Circled in green (and marked 996) is the only one that should be present for your correct install.

One other point. The link I gave you for the door panel removal is for Boxsters, but it's either exactly the same or very similar for 996's.

The only tricky part in removing the door panel without breaking any parts involves the inner door handle cover/surround. I found that to avoid breaking off the tab that almost everyone reports breaking, it helps if you press downwards hard on that part near its rearmost TOP SURFACE and then, after sticking the small screwdriver in from underneath at the front to pull the bottom away slightly, ROTATE that part UP and it will come off without damage.

Good Luck, and if you run into any roadblocks or need more photos, let us know.

Regards, Maurice.

Well the past couple weeks i noticed that when i unlock my car, get into it, start it up, drive away... i notice the red light on my door-lock button is lit but i didnt lock the doors once i was in, and the lite will not turn off until i press "Lock" then "Unlock".

I know my ignition switch is alittle tough to turn sometimes even without the steering lock engauged... is this screwy/quarky issue related to a failing ignition switch?

CJ,

Mine acted similar before completely failing and leaving me stranded in my 996.

I would advise you to replace it asap. There is a great DIY on this site. The switch is very inexpensive.

Don't go to the dealer because he will want to replace the entire assembly and charge you $500 +. Gotta love Porsche for that....

Good luck

Phillipj

CJ:

Good sources (read: inexpensive and reliable) are Autohausaz.com and FCP Groton (Connecticut)(860) 445-7340 Part number is 4A0-905-849-B. I ordered two from FCP Groton, received them the next day, all for $32.00, including shipping. I hear that Autohausaz.com is even cheaper.

Regards, Maurice.

by the way, the cables are not smooth either, they're slightly textured with a criss cross pattern, if that helps anything

Joe:

Okay, you are making progress.

It actually may be a good sign that your inner metal cables do not pull out when you tug on them. There are instances where those inner cables break or fray in the middle of the black plastic outer sheath but that doesn't appear to be your case. Also, the fact that you have the textured cables means that you have the later, updated, improved cables and those are less likely to stretch.

Here is a photo, courtesy of Tool Pants, that shows both types of cables (old style on left, and new textured style on right). Also, note that the right cable must have broken or frayed inside the sheath, which is why it is sticking out that much. The left cable shows that the inner metal cable is not sticking out far enough. What happens in the case that the inner cable does not stick out by 3/4 of an inch is that the inner metal cable does not engage in the motor's output sleeve, and thus does not turn, which in turn does not turn the transmission and V-lever on that side.

Read this thread, which contains this and other photos by Tool Pants: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...666&hl=saga

What you must do next is to determine whether you have 3/4 of an inch of the inner metal cable sticking out from where the black plastic sheath and its metal ferrule cap ends. If you don't have it on BOTH sides, that will indicate your problem.

If you don't have 3/4 of an inch sticking out, you can either buy a new cable (or cables) or, you can perform the minor surgery described by Tool Pants in yet another thread to cut the black plastic sheath back so as to get the correct protrusion of the inner metal cable.

If you have the correct 3/4 sticking out on each side, the problem lies either in one of your transmissions or something much more simple and obvious, as follows:

Inspect the connections at the front and rear arms of each V-lever to make sure that either your plastic caps (on the end of the rod arms that are connected to the frame of the convertible canvas top) have not "popped off" or have not broken or split apart, or that the black hydraulic pushrods have not somehow popped off the V-lever or their other attachment point on the clamshell (body paint-colored) support arm.

Measure how much is sticking out, inspect the above-mentioned parts and report back.

Regards, Maurice.

The local group filmed several of these installs when we were making DVDs. Raman has done about 6 rear speaker installs. We filmed him. At least one of the installs made it on the first DVD.

I always wanted to try a rear speaker kit but this was not an option on my 1997, or a 1998, as it did not come with the rear plastic storage box. Now that I have the plastic rear storage box from a 1999 maybe I should give Suncoast a call....

Years ago I use to trade emails with Bob Tindel about DIYer projects. He worked for Pelican Parts

Are any of these DVD's still for sale anywhere?

Regards, Maurice.

There is a control module for the seat heating on the underside of each seat. It might be worth trying to switch them side-to-side.986_Seat_Heating_Control_Module.pdf

Update:

Took the seats out, disconnected and swapped the seat heater control relays between the passenger's side and the driver's side.

The passenger's side seat heater control relay was definitely the culprit, as swapping it transferred the problem to the driver's side and the passenger's side now worked fine.

That's the good news. The bad news is that the relay, part number 996 618 521 00 costs over $145 with one of the online dealers.

Took apart the defective relay, could see nothing obviously wrong with it.

For anyone else that may run into a seat heater problem, it's not difficult to take out the relay, once you figure out that you must press the center pin out of the plastic rivet that holds the bracket for the relay in place.

I'm going to try to find a less expensive source for the relay.

Thanks again to Richard Hamilton.

Regards, Maurice.

Back to top

Does anyone know or have any experience with this problem?

Although I have not seen the window dropping all the way down problem that you describe, the other part (glass not dropping down the requisite 1/2 inch, although you can hear the window motor turning for a split second) definitely sounds like the classic window regulator problem.

From the symptoms that you describe, it's a classic case of stretched, crumpled, or otherwise broken window regulator. If you have tried the window reset procedure and it has not yielded any results, it's 99% sure that you must replace the window regulator to get that magic 1/2 inch drop. (The reset procedure: press window up button until window reaches top, then hold the button for another 5 seconds, do the same with the window in the down position, pressing the down button, etc.)

If you must replace the window regulator, it's a very straightforward procedure. Here are some tips to be aware of before proceeding:

Four things to keep in mind:

1. Most of the oem replacement regulators come with a small plastic bag of parts that is contained inside the larger plastic bag which encases the regulator. That bag contains a small bump stop that must be attached to the higher of the two bottom square holes on the forwardmost leg (the lower bump stop is for 996/997).

2. Be sure to mark (with a sharpie or similar) the footprint of the old regulator legs where they sit on the bottom (horizontal) surface of the door. That will help you avoid having to later make an adjustment to get the glass in the proper plane (inboard to outboard slant adjustment).

3. Raise the window almost to its uppermost position so that you can access the two torx screws (that must be loosened to release the glass window from its clamping brackets) through the hole provided for that purpose. One in front, one towards the rear, covered by black rubber plugs.

4. Do not clean the two areas near the bottom of each glass window where the clamping brackets are attached to the window. You can use the "dirt marks" as one of the guides as to where the window should be re-attached to the new regulator clamping brackets. The other guide is the forward bottom angled corner of the glass.

Here is a link that will help you remove the door panels: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

Here is a link that will explain how the regulators go bad (see posts 1,2 & 3 specifically):

http://www.renntech.org/forums/inde...showtopic=16269

Good luck!

Regards, schoir (Maurice).

Wow, thanks so much for extending your help. What is this clamping rails that you speak of. PN or picture? I can drop by and get it this Friday before I start it on Saturday. Thanks again!!!

I just ordered a Robbins Top on ebay for $650. I decided to stay with black and have the smaller glass window option. I know that the top will not stay in "service mode" by itself anymore so I will try and order the strap that Robbins makes to keep the top in service mode (PN 3162 STRAP).

I went for the glass because of better visibility but also because I can tint it to match my side windows which I tinted last weekend. Hope that helps.

Honda:

Check out Mike Focke's Boxster Pages for excellent DIY instructions on replacing the top, with loads of photos at: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/replacingthetop-adiy

So that you don't get delayed once you start, be sure to buy the two clamping rails ahead of time. The plastic ears into which the little black pins push into almost always break when taking them apart. They're relatively cheap (about $12.00 each) and you can always return them if you don't break the original ones.

If you run into any roadblocks, shoot me a PM, or post here and I'll provide you with any help I can.

Regards, Maurice.

Honda:

The clamping rails are part numbers 986 561 559 01 and 986 561 560 01 (one left and one right).

Also, if you review the DYI in the link I referred you to, you will see that I refer to two black foam strips that are necessary, but I have never been able to find a part number for those two strips. When I replaced my top and added to the write-up, I found the two foam strips in a "kit" that came with my new top. The new top was an original OEM Porsche top that I bought from someone who had to get rid of it. You will see when you peel the aluminum shoulder plates back, that, just above where the top of the windows would be, in that metal channel, there will be crushed remnants of the original foam strips. I think their purpose is for waterproofing, but not sure.

I posted photos of the black foam strips in the DIY link, so maybe you can print out the photos and take them to the dealer to get replacements. If all else fails, you can make black foam strips from some weatherstrip material (closed cell foam, about 3/4 to 1 inch wide).

Feel free to ask more questions, but I recommend you read and re-read the DIY instructions and look at the photos again. Once you become familiar with what is really involved, you will have that much easier time during the install.

Regards, Maurice.

Is access to the AOS different on a 2000 Boxster 2.7 with Tiptronic, than on one with a manual transmission? All the posts I read say replacing the AOS is "a piece of cake", "...did it in 2 hours", "did it all from the top." But it was all I could do, even after removing the skid plate, to see the clamp on the bellows. The connections on either end of the J-tube were not visible. I could get a wrench almost on the bolt that holds the O2 sensor connector, but could not move my hand because of the tight fit.

And besides all that, the post with all those great pictures is gone.

I've worked on cars and I've got into tight places before, even on Chrysler products, but I'm stymied on this job.

By the way, where does that j-tube go, what is it's purpose, and why is the new one rigid rather than corrugated and configured differently?

Although I have no direct experience with a Tip AOS replacement, I have also read that it is somewhat more difficult.

I definitely agree with Cassiebox' method of cutting the bellows to get better access, and with using a worm gear clamp (stainless). Those two tips will save you from lots of aggravation, with the same result.

Regards, Maurice.

thanks for your reply, after reading through other posts again, I've learned how to put the cover in the "service" position in order to see underneath, but I can't seem to locate the cables to see whether they're smooth or bumpy etc. I did notice that I had the newer white plastic ball on both sides, but that was about it so far. I've also tried to raise the top again just for a second to try to give it more room underneath and noticed that the side that is lagging is not raising at all - not even moving. Don't know if that helps at all.

Joe:

To locate the cables, look on either side of the convertible top motor (which is covered by a thin black plastic housing). The top motor is located just forward of the third brake light, just below the underside of the clamshell when the clamshell is closed down tight.

To get a good look and access to the top motor, you must raise the clamshell to its 45 degree position, which gives you the most access. If you can't raise the clamshell safely to the 45 degree position with the button, then you will have to disconnect the two black pushrods attached to the clamshell so that you can operate the clamshell manually.

There are two cables (left and right) and they are connected (inserted and held in with a sort of a u-shaped, double walled, double leg clip) to the top motor on either side of it.

After you verify which type of cable you have, as pk2 mentioned above, then pull up each clip in turn, and that will allow you to pull the end of each cable (pull outboard) out of the motor for inspection.

If you have read the other threads, you know you should be looking for the inner (speedometer type) metal cable to be protruding from the end of the black sheath.

Have a look and post again. We will go from there.

Regards, Maurice.

i really wish is post was here 2 days earlier, i have just complect, very hard.... to do without any help..

Darren:

Just curious... What did you specifically find most difficult? Was it the aluminum shoulder plates, or the rearmost frame gaskets X 3? Did you have to get new clamping rails?

Regards, Maurice.

how exactly does the top come off?

Here is the procedure that was spelled out by a poster named "rsfeller" earlier. It's pretty detailed and should give you a good idea of what's involved.

"The roll bar doesn't need to come off to remove and bench the convertible top frame/canvas. There were three bolts and two screws on each side of the top and it lifts right out....took less then 10 minutes to remove and 10 minutes to install. My camera battery was dead so no good photos but the procedure goes something like this.

1. put in service mode with clamshell at 45 degrees, cables off back window and window up. You'll need to remove the arms from the transmission to the push bars. Mine were broken so I didn't have to remove them but the red (or white) end will pop off the ball joint or you can use a allen key to remove the head on the transmission.

2. remove lower B piller trim panel behind seats with the 8mm bolt at the top and the screw at the bottom which is hidden well in my black carpet. This removes the defroster hook up and gives access to the top microswitch on the drivers side. The small connection for the microswitch is near the floor. I had to cut one zip tie too holding the microswitch wire to the roll bar.

3. Take out 3 larger bolts on backside of top frame viewable under rear with glass in service mode position. The manual shows a box covering this with two screws for some type of water protection. My car didn't have this and it looked factory. So Three bolts and two phillips screws. They were very low torque and I found no torque spec for reinstall. The are self centering bolts so no worry about getting the top "just right" on reinstall. Your wife can help you remove or install as the tops weight is very low.

5. Slide top back one inch and lift straight up.

NOTE: I highly recommend using a light clear spray grease (with straw) on all pivot points. After greasing my top I can put it up down with one finger in manual mode. There is no question that greasing a 10 year old top will help all the little aluminum and plastic parts live a long and happy life together.

Installation is a reversal or removal, that simple. If you want to take your top off to get an bent "stuff" (like me) drop me a private message and I'll be happy to coach anyone."

He was kind enough to post this as not too many have gone that route.

Regards, Maurice.