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1schoir

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Everything posted by 1schoir

  1. A few possibilities and things to check come to mind from your description... Have you tested the B-Pillar microswitch to see if it is shaped (bent) correctly and for continuity? Have you tried to apply 12 volts directly to the convertible top electric motor (located under the center of the clamshell). Since you have a '99, have you checked the black lever microswitch that is located above the electric motor under the center of the clamshell? What, exactly did you do to check the fuses and the relay, and which fuses did you test? Did you pull out the latch assembly and test the TWO different microswitches there? It seems that one of them is working for sure (the one that allows the windows to drop down when you pull the latch), but the other one may be warped or otherwise faulty. Regards, Maurice.
  2. Glad to be of help. Curious to know if your Boxster had the Phillips screws. Regards, Maurice.
  3. There are three (13mm, IIRC) bolts on each side of the convertible top frame base that must be loosened before you can pull the top back. You must really apply a lot of pressure pulling back the frame after the bolts are loosened and don't expect a lot of movement, usually just a few millimeters but that is enough to have a magnified effect at the latch by the time it "crosses over" the windscreen. First loosen all six bolts, then work on one side by pulling back on the base frame and simultaneously tightening one of the three bolts on that side (preferably with a buddy doing the pulling and you doing the tightening). Then do the same on the other side. Finally tighten the remaining two bolts on each side. Note that some Boxsters came with additional Phillips head screws installed to locate the base frame properly, and those, if any, must be removed as well. Here are two photos of the bolts (and screws, if any) and their location. These two photos are of the left (driver's) side of the base frame. The relevant bolts are circled in red, and blue arrows are pointing to the Phillips screws. The second photo additionally shows the lower of the three bolts (not circled) and part of the rearmost bolt of the three. Same (mirror image) set up on the right side. Regards, Maurice.
  4. If your issue was one of a stretched cable or a missing/broken piece of the plastic bushing part of the window regulator, the window would NOT drop down the 1/2 inch under any circumstance. Your issue is elsewhere, most probably as described by Ahsai.
  5. Very nice, clean looking upgrade. The red grill echoes the red in the lens of the interior light on the right side. The red leather trim is a very nice touch and makes it pop!
  6. Thanks for the clarification. Regards, Maurice.
  7. I am reasonably certain that the relay for a 987 is in the same vicinity as that for a 986. Take a look in the kick panel to the left of your left calf when you are sitting in the driver's seat (If your steering wheel is on the right because it is a British version of the 987, take a look in the kick panel to the right of your right calf as you are sitting in the driver's seat). Once you remove the small carpeted panel, you will see all of the fuses in the fuse panel. Directly ABOVE the fuse panel is the relay tray. The convertible top relay is the only double relay in that tray. Regards, Maurice.
  8. Here is what the two-part plastic part looks like... As you can clearly see from the markings, the further to the left (i.e., towards the front) that you slide the part on top, the thicker the overall assembly will be and thus the higher up the front prong of the clamshell will sit. And here is where the driver's side adjuster sits in the clamshell rain channel: Regards, Maurice.
  9. There is a small, black, two-piece plastic part located a few inches back from the very front of each "arm" of the clamshell. It is located under the clamshell, in the rain channel and it can be used to adjust the height of the final position of the front of each arm. If you look at it closely, you will see that it is just a matter of pulling the two pieces apart (lowers it) or pushing the two pieces towards each other (raises it.). If the driver's side front of the clamshell is sitting closer to the proper height as you describe, try to adjust the passenger side to the same configuration as a starting point and go from there. Then you can go back to the driver's side and make perfect. Regards, Maurice.
  10. That is indeed all there is to it, with no heavy lifting (literal or otherwise) involved, no need to contort your body to get under the dash, and no surprises. Thanks for explaining the absence of heater core valves in modern cars. Regards, Maurice.
  11. There are the two adjustments that can be made by screwing the torx bolts clockwise or counterclockwise. That will have the window ending up lower or higher in its final position. However, I think your problem is probably with the regulator itself, even though it's new. One thing you can do to narrow down the problem is to measure the actual length of the drop when you pull on the cable. You can get that spec from the Bentley manual or just compare it with your window on the other side. If the length of the drop is the same, you can adjust the height by using the torx screws. If the length of the drop is not quite enough, it's the slack in the cable. It's easy to determine whether your cable has too much slack to start with. Since you have the door panel off, you can observe what happens to the cable (and the window) when you pull on the handle. If you see the cable "tightening up" a split second before the window starts to move down that required 1/2 inch, that's your problem. There should be no slack in the cable, meaning that when you pull on the door handle, it should instantly move the window down, without first having to take up the slack. If that is what you observe, you can definitely fix it with the bicycle brake adjuster fix. Regards, Maurice.
  12. wiz: I couldn't find the link to the thread on 986forum, so I wrote this up a couple of years ago on this site and I just found that thread. Here is a link to that discussion, with photos: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45244-window-drop-passenger-side/?hl=%2Bwindow+%2Bregulator Good luck. Let us know how you make out. Regards, Maurice.
  13. ... The adjustments on the bottom of the door only change the angle of the glass relative to the frame. ... There are additional adjustments on the windows that allow you to position the window not only up and down, but also inward and outward (besides the "angle of the glass relative to the frame". Some of these adjustments require that the door panel be removed for access. Regards, Maurice.
  14. If the window is not dropping enough AND it's the original regulator, it may be possible to repair the regulator by taking up some of the slack with a bicycle brake adjuster. One of the posters on 986forum.com came up with this ingenious solution and it works perfectly as a permanent repair. I used his repair method and it's been good for over three years. Regards, Maurice.
  15. Dave: It makes perfect sense. Take a look at the article entitled "Replacing the Top and Frame" in Mike Focke's Boxster pages, here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement That will explain the difference between the "A Version" and the "B Version" convertible top systems and the advantages and disadvantages of each kind of top. You will also see there that the OEM glass tops have a slightly larger rear glass window than the aftermarket tops and they also have "PORSCHE" printed near the bottom edge of the glass in large letters. That can help in identifying them. The bolt that he adjusted in one of the pushrods is used to make grosser adjustments than screwing in or unscrewing the plastic ball cup provides. The overall length of the pushrod affects the extended length of the top when it almost reaches the top of the windshield. Since yours is a '99, it is a good thing that you ended up with an aftermarket top on a three-bow frame as going over to the other system takes a lot more work and electrical wiring. Glad you got it all sorted out. Regards, Maurice.
  16. I found the link to the window adjustment thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41273-passenger-door-sticking-window-alignment-issue-not-regulator/?hl=%2Bwindow+%2Band+%2Bleg+%2Band+%2Btorx+%2Band+%2Bhole#entry219547 Take a look specifically at posts #6 and 7. Regards, Maurice.
  17. This is helpful information. It may be different on 996's than on early 986's. I don't remember a torx screw in those positions, but I'll have to check the next time I take off a door panel. Regards, Maurice.
  18. Dave: Most guys doing this swap have that little problem with the latch just touching the top of the plexiglass windscreen and the solution is the one that you tried. I suggest you try it again a couple of times to see if you get any improvement. Make sure you are pulling back (and slightly up) with a lot of force and that you don't release the pressure until you are certain that it will not move forward again by properly tightening up the one rearmost bolt. It helps if you have one or two other guys (maybe your wife can help :eek: ) pulling back while you tighten the bolt. If that doesn't work, you will have to slightly elongate the three holes on each side by using a dremel with a carbide bit on the forward part of each of the three holes. As for the window issue, there are three adjustments that can be done to the final position of the window, two of which can be done without removing the door panel. Fortunately, the vertical (height) adjustment can be done without removing the door panel, with access to a torx screw through one of the holes on the underside of the door. I wrote this up a few years ago here. If I can find the thread, I'll post a link to it. If neither of us can find it, I'll look for my photos and post is again. One question: Since yours is a '99, you should have the "A Version" convertible top double relay, and since you didn't mention swapping relays, etc., I'm assuming that your new glass-windowed top is on an OEM three-bow frame, with GAHH or Robbins covering. Or, have you done the complete electrical conversion to the "B Version" setup found in the 2000 to 2004 Boxsters? Regards, Maurice.
  19. I'm not aware of any adjustments, as long as the clam shell closes well. Not sure of exactly what you are referring to when you say the top has more "slack". I would double check that both of your plastic ball cups are intact (the ones attached to the front pushrods). The top can work with only one attached but it won't pull down on that side when open completely or closed completely. Regards, Maurice.
  20. Your '99 Boxster should have the triangle symbol on the double relay. Before replacing it with a new one, try taking it out and rapping it sharply against a hard surface, such as a desk. That will sometimes free up the contacts inside. Also, when re-installing it, push it in and pull it out a few times as that will help to clean up any minor corrosion on the spades of the relay and the receiving contacts in the tray. If that doesn't work, I would inspect the parallel strip microswitch for cracks. If the parallel strip microswitch is not defective, you could then try to replace the relay with a known good one. Perhaps you have a friend with another Boxster who would let you try it before you purchase a new one. Regards, Maurice.
  21. What year is your Boxster and which double relay does your Boxster have (i.e., triangle or square printed on top surface of double relay)? The double relay is located above the fuse box in the left footwell kick panel (this is the way it is on U.S. cars, not sure if the location is identical for right hand driver cars). Here is a photo of what you are looking for (this one is the one with the square, generally for Boxsters 2000 to 2004): Here it is in the relay panel, indicated by the green "X" (note that the relay panel has been removed from its attachment points in the kick panel area). You will probably also have to check one of the two microswitches that are contained INSIDE the convertible top latch handle housing receptacle. Here is what those parts look like: One likely culprit is the parallel strip microswitch, which you can see in the photo above. Inspect it for continuity and for hairline cracks, which are relatively common and could cause a completely dead response, such as the one you are getting. Regards, Maurice.
  22. Thanks for posting the instructions. Can't wait to try to build one as soon as the weather gets back to normal here in the Northeast U.S. Regards, Maurice.
  23. How do you make a "homemade smoke machine" and how does it compare to the big $$ commercial units? Regards, Maurice.
  24. :cheers: Thanks for posting the details of your solution. I'm sure this will help someone else along the line. Regards, Maurice.
  25. Scott: That is a "blank", and it's gloss black. It fits into one of the empty spaces on the left side, but I believe that you have to fit a small wiring harness with an LED on the end of it. That LED ends up in the middle of the bottom half of the blank "switch". I will get a photo of it and post it for you. Regards, Maurice.
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