1schoir

P0137 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Signal Wire Short Circuit to Ground or Incorrect Voltage

Potential causes:

Short circuit in signal wire to ECM ground

DME control module output stage short to ground

Fault area:

- Wiring harness or housing ground.

- Oxygen sensor

- DME control module or housing ground.

Troubling shooting:

Check and repair wiring harness.

Replace O2 sensor.

Wiring harness testing

1. Remove all four O2 connectors.

2. Switch on the ignition.

3. Connect voltmeter at sleeve to pins 3 and 4 of O2 connector 1 after catalytic converter.

Display: approx. 450 mV

4. Connect voltmeter at sleeve to pin 3 and ground.

Display: approx. 720 mV

If the measurement according to items 3 and 4 does not show the specified values, remove DME control module connector and check wiring for short to ground.

If no short to ground can be detected, replace DME control module.

Sensor testing:

1. Remove O2S connector 1 after catalytic converter.

2. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pin 3 and to O2 housing.

Display: infinite ohms

3. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pin 4 and to O2 housing.

Display: infinite ohms

4. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pins 4 and 2.

Display: infinite ohms

5. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pins 3 and 2.

Display: infinite ohms

If any test fails replace the O2 sensor(s) that failed.

Thanks for detailing procedure, Loren.

The Durametric says "Oxygen Sensor AHEAD of Catalytic Converter" for Factory Code P0137. Does that code refer to the O2 sensors both AHEAD of and AFTER the catalytic converter?

Regards, 1schoir.

CEL went on and has been cleared, but keeps returning.

I plugged in my Durametric unit and got the following code:

P0137 Factory Fault Code 12

Oxygen Sensor ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1-3) Short Circuit.

I don't know if "Short Circuit" means bad O2 sensor or if one of the wires leading to it is shorted out.

I did go under the car, disconnected the plug leading to the subject O2 sensor, cleaned the connections and reconnected the plug but it still throws the same code. No evidence of any frayed wires.

I am not sure if there is any connection, but the CEL may have come on shortly after I had an overflow of coolant into the trunk, as I know it is the same general area below which the O2 sensors on the psgr side are located.

Car is a 986 MY '97 with 16K miles on it. (Long story).

Any thoughts appreciated.

Regards, 1schoir. :(

Thanks Chris,

I ordered 2 push rods from Sunset Imports. Suncoast never returned my call and Autohaus does'nt carry those parts. They are $42 and change each, I should get them in 5-6 days. They did not ask me left or right, I assume the push rods are the same for both sides, right?

The push rods at first glance appear to be the same, but there is actually a difference in the part of the pushrod (the solid round metal arm) that attaches with the clip (i.e., NOT the ball/socket end). Make sure that you replace the correct part on each side.

Part #:

passenger side: 986 561 579 00

driver side : 986 561 580 00

Regards, 1schoir

to remove the V-lever, you just need to remove that big bolt right in the middle of the V-lever. i can't remember what size socket to use, but if you have a set just try some until you find one that fits. you said that one of the balls on one of the V-levers doesn't pop out, so look at the back of that ball/V-lever to see how the ball is held on, and then compare that to the one that's popping out. you might need to order a new ball for that V-lever, or a new V-lever if the ball's threads are stripped.

as for the red connector popping off (i understand you have replaced with the metal ones), the only thing i can think of is that because of the bent push-rods, it is somehow working that connector off of the ball when it moves. i would buy new push-rods and try those.

the other possibility is that the metal connector is not 'snapped' on to the ball enough. it is possible that because of the metal construction, there is no 'flex' in the material to allow it to envelope the ball the way the plastic connectors do.

first thing i would do is buy new push-rods. i wouldn't want to take a chance with the old ones. the potential for costly damage is too high.

Agreed. I will get the push rods first and take it from there. Do you know the part number by chance and where I could get them cheaper? Or is the local dealer the only option?

Thanks again,

Julian.

Push Rod Part numbers are as follows:

986 561 579 00

986 561 580 00

Just bought a pair through my body shop friend (about $70 each) for my Boxster, which has not operated in the automatic mode for an extended period of time. When I bought the car, the previous owner had obviously had a problem because the clamshell has a little crease in it, and I have investigated and found that at least one of the cables has stretched. Mine's a '97. I may try to hook everything up this weekend myself.

Regards, 1schoir.

Hi - I just took a long roadtrip from Denmark (NORDIC Euorpe) to Toscany in Italy (30-35 degrees Celsius). Before that I had the water pump and coolant reservoir exchanged on my 98 Boxster. It is a total drive so far of more than 2000 Kilometers.

I am now in Milano and I have experienced two things that annoy me a bit, and I was hoping for some suggestions.

1. After the loong drive I where the car was a 90 degrees a lot of the time due to the mountain climb (many hours and hours of big mountains in very hot conditions) into Italy I noitced that it had lost a lot of coolant. We had the aircon a 21 degrees C all the time but it was 10 degrees more outside. I could poor almost 1 liter of water into the car before it reached .

What could this be since I just replaced the coolant reservoir and the water pump I would think all tubes was checked, but somewhere the coolant is leaking ?

The car seems to be running smoothly - I reached 200 Kms at one point without problems and OK the enigine is not blasting up hills but it is doing just fine and allways has a extra punch if I press the speeder some more. I am confused what is the cause. I havent been able to check for coolant leaks so far as the car is in a Hotel parking area I cannot get to but I will check asap if it is dripping from somewhere.

2. Today on 2-3 hour trip to Milano from Tuscany I noticed the steering wheel had become a bit like there was sand in the steering function. I called my local Porsche mechanic and he told me to go straight to Porsche in Milano and get more Servo Steering fluid on the car - As I have never opened into the enigne myself and dont know a word Italian I dont dare to buy this fluid at a mechanic myself.

Is this the problem or is my servo-engine broken ?

How much is a new servo-enige approx in $ - I was told at one point it made small squeaking noises at low speeds by a mechanic so I guess it is about to break down or is it normal ??

Thank you in advance

As mentioned above, if you have an early Boxster with the "old" coolant cap, that could be the cause of your entire coolant loss problem.

The complete part number for the updated, correct coolant cap is 996 106 447 01.

Also, it is not unheard of for a new, replacement coolant tank to leak. Apparently, there is a difference between "OEM" and Porsche Original Parts in the case of coolant tanks. Some of the OEM tanks (they appear to be thicker plastic than the originals and make seeing the coolant level a little more difficult through the "window" provided for that purpose) sometimes leak through the bleed valve that is located just forward of where the coolant cap is located (round black plastic part, held down by 8 small screws, but you must remove the thin black plastic cover that is located under the oil filler cap, coolant cap, and dipstick receptacle to see it). When coolant leaks through the bleeder valve, it will eventually end up on the floor, near the inside of the right rear tire. If the coolant reservoir itself is cracked again, coolant will leak directly into the trunk and will soak the carpet, the padding and the wooden plates on the bottom of the trunk.

Finally, if you are topping up the coolant, make sure to use only distilled water, not tap water.

Regards, 1schoir