GaryFB

You remember that with the PST2 you always have to read the fault then clear it in that order? If you do other functions then come back to erase faults it won't do it.

I'm trying to remember a thing with PCM1/2 where you have to clear the fault - turn the ignition off (removing the key) - then put the key in and read it again before it will show as erased.

You are right the diagnostics say it is the amp. I have heard of some amp failures but those have usually been total sound failures.

Hi Loren; The Porsche-BOSE CD Rom software Update fixed the PCM2 code. Thanks for your help.

You remember that with the PST2 you always have to read the fault then clear it in that order? If you do other functions then come back to erase faults it won't do it.

I'm trying to remember a thing with PCM1/2 where you have to clear the fault - turn the ignition off (removing the key) - then put the key in and read it again before it will show as erased.

You are right the diagnostics say it is the amp. I have heard of some amp failures but those have usually been total sound failures.

Hi Loren; I have received these two CD Rom Updates relating to the TSB. I will let you know what happens.

TSB 13/04 W522 Dated 04-15-2005 applies to this car. The PCM2 Software Version is 3.0 and the BOSE amp Software version is 000 119 20. The TSB indicates there is an update for the BOSE amp. I do not know if that will fix the Code 800A, but I suspect I should try. Does anyone have experience with this TSB ?

Ok its time for a new Clutch I need some advice.. I have a 2000 cab 911 C2 I need a new clutch and am looking for some advice. Im planning on going the supercharger route in about 7-8 months or so.. Given that i have to change the clutch what should i put on now so that i dont have to go though this when i put the added HP.. Also how much does it cost parts and labor to have a clutch done? Just curious so when i shop around i have an idea. Thanks.. PS How much do you guys rev the car off a light before you dump the clutch to get a good launch? I get no wheel spin at all I have Iforged 19s with 295 30 19s I think dumping the clutch at 4500 rpms contibuted to its shot life :)

Hi Jorge; do you think wheel spin improves forward acceleration? Yes, engaging the clutch when the engine is reving at 4500 rpm increased clutch wear substantially.

You remember that with the PST2 you always have to read the fault then clear it in that order? If you do other functions then come back to erase faults it won't do it.

I'm trying to remember a thing with PCM1/2 where you have to clear the fault - turn the ignition off (removing the key) - then put the key in and read it again before it will show as erased.

You are right the diagnostics say it is the amp. I have heard of some amp failures but those have usually been total sound failures.

Hi Loren; yes, I Read the Fault first, then go to Erase Fault, but it will not allow me to erase. I removed the instrument panel, inspected the microphone, the wires, and performed the resistance tests as per the Porsche Manual. I even replaced the microphone. I performed the Automated Test of the BOSE microphone and speakers, and both pass. But the Fault Code remains. The Fault Data says the fault is Present. The system self tests itself and passes, but it also sees a fault. I call that a contradiction. I wonder if there is a software problem in the BOSE amp module? I guess I have to replace it to find out. I just hate guessing. I hate when the Trouble Chart ends with replace with new module. I will try recycling the key and erasing the code, I think I have done this, but I will do it as a proceedure. Thanks again.

My diagnostic manual says:

"800A PCM2 - gateway

CAN comfort timeout, air-conditioning system"

Do you have any other symptoms?

Hi Loren; thank you for the quick response. No, there are no symptoms. Why is the fault recorded and why will the fault not erase? I have attached the pages form the manual and the data from the PST2. Thank you.

Codes.pdf

Seems as if I can get a hold of the Shell recommended product.  However, (and not to question Loren's recommendation) the Porsche dealer stated that the same Shell transaxle oil goes into the front diff too.  The dealer tech seemed concerned when I said that I would be putting ATF into the front diff.  Loren - are you sure on your info? - I value your opinion and do not want to put the wrong fluid in by mistake.  Thanks.

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I have never done this on a C4. I quoted you what the service manual says (see below). The service manual could be wrong - the easiest way to tell for sure is to take the fill plug out and stick your finger inside to touch the oil. If it comes out with a red colored very light oil then it is ATF if it comes out with a thicker yellow/brown oil then it is gear oil. Please let us know if the service manual is wrong!

Hi Loren; I think the Workshop Manual proceedure may also be incorrect on the capacity of 9 liters for the front drive differential. Maybe 9 liters of ATF for the entire tiptronic.

2003, Boxster S, 025,268 miles. Using the PST2 I have a PCM2 Code 800A - Microphone not connected. I have followed the diagnostic proceedure in the Porsche Manual (checking the wires), I have replaced the microphone (996-646-307-04-A03) with a new part purchased from the dealer. The code will not erase even with the new microphone. When I perform automated self test for the microphone and speakers, using the PST2, both pass the test. According to the Porsche Manual, I need to replace the BOSE amplifier control module. Has anyone ever experienced this fault code? Will a new BOSE amplifier control module fix this problem?

The following is the Code Data:

Fault type: Limit exceeded - present

Lock Status of MOST ring: lock

Supply voltage: 13.4 v

Frequency counter: 50

MOST unlock counter: 93

MOST transmission error: 12

Fault Memory could not be erased

Can anyone explain the above Code Data?

Thank you.

You should document the problem with the Service Writer and mail a letter to Porsche, if you feel the noise is related to their work. You should also give them the opportunity to correct the problem. What does the "Repair Kit" consist ? How did the dealer document the repair? Very important, what year and model.

I guess I would start to look at the wiring and pins in the plugs.

Also, was the part number of the replacement the same as the original or a "newer" part number?

Hi Loren; thank you for the reply. I will post what I find. I was just hoping someone had come across this before.

Did you do the new throttle adaption?

1. Switch on the ignition.

2. Wait one minute. Do not press the accelerator.

3. Switch off the ignition for at least 10 seconds.

4. Read out the fault memory.

Hi Loren; Thank you for the reply. Yes, I performed the adaption as you described, that is exactly how it is written in the manual. I also searched this site & checked all the TSBs, but have not found anything. Thanks.

I also looked at the 7 different throttle & pedal values. I should have hit Save, or at least written them down. But the code appears to be related to the time required to close the throttle.

Hi Everyone; I must be over looking something, or there is a secret to the throttle adaptation. For a 2002 Boxster, the car sat unused in the garage. I replaced the battery, when the car started, I got a code P1502, and the engine ran real bad and would barely accelerate. Using the PST2, I erased the code while the engine was running, and the engine ran smooth and was responsive. Turn the key off and the engine runs terrible and will not accelerate. The manual says the engine throttle performs a test on the safety return spring and this throttle is failing the test. I purchased a new throttle form the dealer, performed the adaptation, and have the exact same problem.

What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

Hi Everyone; what MNBoxster is saying is correct, and no repair shop should ever make a "plug" only repair.  Having said that, you can purchase tire plug kits and make your own repair, and you will not even have to remove the wheel from the car.  That should be considered a temporary repair, and you are accepting all liability and risk.

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Modern tires are designed not to blow out even it they have a nail in them. The tire integrity should be better whith a well repaired puncture than with the nail in it. If we worry about a repaired tire we should be constantly worry about stepping on a nail and driving with it and should stop every few miles to check the tires. :rolleyes:

Of course raising protocols are a different issue ... I can't imagine anybody paricipating in NASCAR with a patched tire. :wacko:

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Hi Rolando; There are at least 3 types of tire puncture repairs. 1) is the plug only, installed from the tread side. 2) is the patch repair, installed from the inside of a dismounted tire. 3) is the one piece patch and plug, installed from the insdie of a dismounted tire. I will research and report back as to with Federal or Industry agency has ruled that only #3 is an acceptable repair. From a liability issue, #1 and #2 should not be performed by a repair shop, moisture can leak in and corrode the belts resulting in a tire failure.

If the vehicle owner installs #1 or even the liquid stuff through the tire valve, that is ok. But when a repair shop performs this operation, and an accident results, the repair shop is liable because the industry says that #1 and #2 are not acceptable repairs. If it goes to court, the repair shop loses.

If you like, I can obtain more information. I have done many #1 repairs without out consequences, even on race tires. But in the eyes of the law, those were not acceptable repairs.

I think it might be 2006 model year cars will be required to have tire pressure monitors as part of the EPA vehicle emissions requirements. Low tire pressures reduce fuel economy and increase emisions per mile. Some vehicles use the ABS sensors to detect deflating tires.

01 5sp non-S US. Realizing you can't diagnose electrical over the internet, what could cause the following symptoms:

Battery light is on before I even put key in after hooking up battery after charging it. Turn key on, then off, then on. Battery light is gone.

Click-click-click no starty when key moved to turn over starter. Charge battery for a few hours on 1.5 amp. Little better. About a quarter turn over. Starter seems to want to engage.

Take battery to Sears. It's a fully charged battery. Cannot charge it anymore.

Huh. Put it back in. Try to start it again. Same symptoms.  :help:

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Any loose connections from the battery to the starter can cause a similiar problem. Removing fuses and using a test light , is a proceedure to test for current drains. You do not have a current drain, you have a voltage drop ( high resistance) between the battery and the starter. This can be on positive circuit or on the negitive circuit. Are the cables tight at the battery?

01 5sp non-S US. Realizing you can't diagnose electrical over the internet, what could cause the following symptoms:

Battery light is on before I even put key in after hooking up battery after charging it. Turn key on, then off, then on. Battery light is gone.

Click-click-click no starty when key moved to turn over starter. Charge battery for a few hours on 1.5 amp. Little better. About a quarter turn over. Starter seems to want to engage.

Take battery to Sears. It's a fully charged battery. Cannot charge it anymore.

Huh. Put it back in. Try to start it again. Same symptoms.  :help:

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Immobilizer is preventing you from starting. Close all the doors and hoods. Activate the alarm, and wait 60 seconds. Then activate the button on the key to diaarm the alarm, and then get in to start the car. Tell us how it works, Thanks Gary

01 5sp non-S US model 986. 120 amp alternator. Just changed the volt regulator. Earlier connected red wire to B2+ along with black wire. Per Loren, changed red wire to B1+. Refitted alt to engine block. Now, of course, battery is dead. Hooked up to 1.5 amp Craftsman float charger. Man, it's taking forever. It's been on there over 20 hours and has managed to give enough juice to make a slow 3/4 crank. Whirr-whirr-whiiiiiiirrrr. Click. Click. Click. So . . .

How long to fully charge depleted 12 volt car battery with a 1.5 amp float charger/maintainer?

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It could take months to charge the battery with a 1.5 amp Maintenance charger. Even if you get your car started, you could damage the alternator because the alternator was not designed to operate at maximum output to charge a dead battery. Maybe you could take the battery to a local repair shop to fully charge it? You can purchase an inexpensive hydrometer and measure the specific gravity to determine when the battery is fully charged. You can also go to the Interstate Battery website to get helpful information on charging a battery. Do not try starting your car with the battery charger plugged into the wall, you could damage electronics in the car. The battery, when fully charged, is a large capacitor and absorbs the surges.

Hi Everyone; what MNBoxster is saying is correct, and no repair shop should ever make a "plug" only repair. Having said that, you can purchase tire plug kits and make your own repair, and you will not even have to remove the wheel from the car. That should be considered a temporary repair, and you are accepting all liability and risk.

What "off the shelf" fluid can we use in this model?

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Hi Mark, how are you doing? How is your son, he must be in his 20's now? Best regards - Gary

:clapping:  THANK YOU - That was it.  Fuse E-6 was blown.  This fuse powers the vapor control solenoid.  You can actually hear the solenoid when you open the gas fill flap.  Apparently this fuse is also the UnSwitched side of the cell phone connector that everyone uses to get power to after market accessories.  The switched side of the cell phone connector, which I use for a navigation system is on another fuse.  E-7 or 8.

For anyone else with this problem, I could not even get fuel in using a 1 gallon hand can.

:angry: I have a 2003 C4S tiptronic.  Suddenly, I can not pump any fuel into the tank.  It splashes back out.  Is there some type of solenoid on a vent that would prevent fuel being pumped in?

I'm in trouble.  There is not enough fuel in the tank to drive to the dealer!!

Thank you

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I have repaired this before on a 2003 996. The car has a rollover valve. There is a fuse in the fuse panel that might have blown. If the fuse is blown, no gasoline will go in. Check this first. Lets us know, thanks.

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Hi Tom; That is amazing, the cell phone was hooked up to the roll-over valve on the cars I fixed. I wonder who is telling the installers to use this fuse?

:angry: I have a 2003 C4S tiptronic.  Suddenly, I can not pump any fuel into the tank.  It splashes back out.  Is there some type of solenoid on a vent that would prevent fuel being pumped in?

I'm in trouble.  There is not enough fuel in the tank to drive to the dealer!!

Thank you

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I have repaired this before on a 2003 996. The car has a rollover valve. There is a fuse in the fuse panel that might have blown. If the fuse is blown, no gasoline will go in. Check this first. Lets us know, thanks.

Both of the rear windows on my 99 C 4 cab will not raise even with the top up.  Anyone know if this is a shorted relay sensor?  The fuses all seem o.k. and I was told there may be more than 1 sensor for the windows.

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Hi Valentine; I recall repairing a few, take a screw driver and push the contact switch where the latch hooks on the windshield. If that fixes the problem, you need a new switch. Let us know what happens.

Porsche month and YTD sales comparison

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Hi Don; Regarding Porsche's sales, are the year to date sales based on a calendar year ending December 2005? Thanks-Gary

Don't know what the price is normally.

I am in the UK and not in the US - moved over here a year ago with my car.

Any way one of the arguments Porsche UK used for not being able to help me was that this was a US car and not a UK car - I guess they did not make any revenue on the car and it was 8 years old. Apparently they have guidelines on what the conditions are before they can help you through "goodwill"

I was told by the Porsche dealer that a new engine would cost me £8720 - yes that is correct and outrages to be honest. This price does not include installation. This equals to about US dollars $13K - better to get another car for that price. so don't know about your $5500 price?

I did the sensible thing - I fond another engine where someone had swopped their 2.5LA to a 3.2L and just getting mine replaced with that engine. Will get a a years warranty on the engine. This obviously did not happen through the established Porsche network but through another smaller garage specializing in Porsches. I have not got anything good to say about Porsche at the moment so will leave it at that - still pissed off to be honest.

I hope none of you ever experiance what I went through.

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Very sorry to hear that, I hope the car makes you feel better from here on. Thanks for sharing- Gary

Is there a menue available that would have codes for Turbo & GT2 996 (DME 7.8)?  I beleive I understand the one listed here in the ODB-II P-Code Menu section is for early 996 (DME 5.3.2).

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What code are you getting?

<_< Anyone has used Jurid brake pads? My mechanics recommends that over Texstar pads?  What do you think? Thanks,

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Porsche uses Textar, Jurid, & Pagid. The pads you purchase from an aftermarket supplier may not be the same pads you get from Porsche, even if they are Textar, Jurid, or Pagid. I have seen aftermarket pads with the Porsche logo ground off. I have had instances where I used Textar, Jurid, or Pagid pad and had horrible squeel, when switching over to Porsche dealer pads, the noise went away.

Some Porsche dealer pads are priced very close to aftermarket suppliers, but this changes alot.