ar38070

I would not worry about it yet as long as it still looks good i.e. not dirty. Miles are probably more important than how long it has been in the car. If you do change it, change all of it and be sure to use the right type.

You may find that most of the squeal comes from the rear assuming you changed all four corners. If so use stocks in the rear. The Pagid web site says that many (but not all) sport pads come with anti-squeal shims. If you are not tracking the car then why use the sport pads. If you are tracking the car then use the Pagid orange.

Thanks. I have got a whole bunch of AC adapters lying around so one of them with either a cigarette lighter adapter or a pair of alligator clips should do the job.

Anybody have one of these? If so could you have a look at the transformer and let me know what the current output and voltage is? thanks

The manual says 30,000 and I would use whatever the porsche part is.

Some Kragens also known as Chucks and one other name also carries 0w-40. Of the 2 near my house one carries it the other does not. They put it on sale every now and then for $4/quart.

You just need to undo the bolt that holds that attaches the belt to the floor at the outside lap belt position. I forget if there is a plastic cover on it or not but it is just a bolt. You can then thread the belt through the outside lap belt hole in the seat. I would not thread the belt through the shoulder harness hole unless you want to take your head off in an accident.

The calipers fit but the rear rotors are different as the e-brake is not the same size. You need to machine them or get special rotors for the rear. The fronts you can swap out without any issues. IMHO the brake upgrade is not needed unless you are seeing brake fade issues on the track. If you can ABS the brakes on the track then brake size is not the problem. There is some benefit for heat dissipation but not much else. Also the holes in the S rotors make them more vulnerable to cracking. Also they weigh more. Third radiator. If your car is hitting the 250 temperature mark consistently then the third radiator MAY help. I say may as the person that I know that has done it still had overheating problems. Granted this was on a 95 degree day at 4000 ft (Streets of Willows, 2000 boxster tiptronic). That is also the only time that I ever hit the 250 mark (98 boxster). If you do it, it of course adds weight and you have to change the front bumper cover. If you are not hitting the 250 mark consistently I would not bother. Here is a data point: the base 996 with either the 3.4 or 3.6 engine does not use a third radiator.

Try here. They have all kinds of materials available. http://www.carcoversdirect.com/convertible...x=75&action.y=1 I have one and I believe I have the one from SportsCarSolutions made from the Noah fabric. It is great to have, does not take up much space and relatively quick to put on.

No, supposedly whenever you touch the brakes PSM will be active though will not do anything until it detects a possible "dangerous" situation.

I received the following info from pca.org/tech: Area: Boxster Classification: Electrical Subject: Airbag light Question: When the airbag light is on exactly what does it mean? Obviously a fault has been detected but is the airbag system totally deactivated? Will it still deploy in some non-standard mode? Does deployment depend on what fault has been detected? Or is the system totally offline after any fault has been detected? I saw the earler question and you stated that if the buckle is the only problem then the airbag will still deploy. How certain are you about this? I ask the question as I was at the dealer last week to have the airbag light reset and the mechanic told me that if the airbag light is on then the airbag would NOT deploy under any circumstances. When I challenged him about it he kind of backtracked and said he was not sure. Does anyone have a definitive answer as to whether or not the airbag will deploy if the airbag light is on? If it will deploy which faults are not "critical"? Answer: To find out exactly what does it mean, you are going to have to get the diagnostic computer plugged in to the car. I do NOT recommend messing around with airbag safety. Having an airbag fail to go off when needed can be a disaster. Worse is if one goes off in your face while you are driving down the road because you can't see. There was a recall from a US carmaker with this problem, after a number of fatalities, some of them serious. If the dealer's mechanic isn't sure about the airbag system in detail, find another one who is. When Peter says the airbag can still deploy, then my advice is to not bet against it. >From Peter: Porsche has told me that the airbags will still deploy with the light on but at a different force. There are 2 force deployment speeds and if you have a fault in the seat buckles, the computer will assume that you have not buckled your seatbelt and deploy the bags at the higher force since you do not have seatbelts to hold you back. If you have a drivers or passenger airbags fault, that side of the car where the fault is will not operate. The same also applies for the side airbags, fault in one side or the other and the bag will be shut off...........Peter Smith Joel Reiser / Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 3/12/2004

That is what thought though when I was at the dealer last week to have it reset the mechanic told me that if the airbag light is on then the airbag would NOT deploy under any circumstances. When I challenged him about it he kind of backtracked and said he was not sure.

When the airbag light is on exactly what does it mean? Obviously a fault has been detected but is the airbag system totally deactivated? Will it still deploy in some non-standard mode? Does deployment depend on what fault has been detected? Or is the system totally offline after any fault has been detected?

Maybe but that was 2 different quotes. One from a dealer and one from an independent porsche repair shop. That also includes replacing the clutch though that does not add that much time.

I would say 8-10K miles. If you baby the car you can get 15-20K. If you drive aggressively on the street then you get 12-15K. Throw in the track time and then you are in the 10K range. I am assuming that we are talking about street tires. Also of course it will depend on how aggressively you are driving on the track and what level your driving skills are at.

Check the salvage yards. Also you can get a carbon fiber hood from Performance Products for $800. That is what I would do.

I believe it would be more like 8 hours. That is what it took for my boxster.