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ar38070

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About ar38070

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  • From
    Belmont, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1998 Boxster, 2002 996TT
  1. I would not think the wheel bearing has anything to do with it. If the bearing were bad enough to cause brake problems you would have noticed other problems first. Also usually when the bearing goes bad the noise is more of a low pitched rrrrrrrr or moaning kind of noise. At least that what mine have all sounded like and I have replaced four of them. I do not think that a brake pedal that changes height from the cold start position is anything to worry about. As long as the pedal is consistent once the car is moving then I do not think you have any problem. It sounds like you have not had the car back on the track since the master cylinder change. If that is that case then (assuming your high pitch whine is not some other problem) then take the car to the track and try it out.
  2. As far as I know you can use anti-seize everywhere. :D I think it is advisable 1) where there are two different metals (steel screw, aluminum bracket, 2) where there is a lot of heat, 3) where there is water or other fluid and the potential for corrosion 4) where you want to be sure that the nut or bolt can be loosened in the future. Also I thinks it helps when you torque a bolt as it lubricates and results in a more consistent tightening. I cannot think of anytime that using it would be bad. It is more a question of remembering to use it. I just thought of a time when you would not use it. :D If you had a bolt or nut that you did not want to come loose i.e. you were using loctite to make sure it did not come loose or a nut with a nylon insert. I hope that you were able to get the broken bits out and that you do not have a similar experience in the future.
  3. There could have been corrosion as you suggest or galling if they were removed in the past and were reinstalled without any anti-sieze. Or maybe they were reinstalled and over-torqued and were damaged.
  4. The only thing that I can think of is that you might have cross threaded the bolt. You can put them in by hand i.e. no wrench until the last turn to make sure that you have not cross threaded them. There is no way you could snap them off that way.
  5. I have had mine out at least a dozen times over the last 8 years without any problems. The torque spec is 17 ft/lbs which is not a whole lot. Replace them and move on.
  6. WHERE H&R bolts? I am almost sure collars cannot be removed. www.hrsprings.com The collars can be removed. Many people have done this. Here is a website that offers the Porsche bolts. http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?t=AccLugsLocks ed
  7. As far as I know the "bearing" is #3 in your diagram. Instead of using stock parts your can get camber plates from The Racers Group that will replace this part. Benefits are 1) price $500 a pair 2) the "bearing is now a monoball so less play 3) you can crank in more camber than stock if you like. ed
  8. You can use the H&R bolts that are 7mm longer. If I remember correctly they are the 52mm bolts. You will have to transfer the collars from your original bolts to the new bolts.
  9. The locking bolt is 996 361 057 90 and I believe the regular bolt is 996 361 203 90. ed
  10. Just grab them and pull them off. The inner surface is just a rubber seal on the piston. The outer surface may be a little harder as there is some spring tension holding it in place. The spring is a metal ring that is molded inside of the seal.
  11. Well I just changed mine yesterday. I had driven one a few years ago and did not think much of it. I got a good deal on a a b&m pre-installed in a housing so that it was a drop in, no cutting, so I figured what the heck. So I have driven it one day. The effort is definitely greater. It feels kind of neat. The throw feels a lot less. With time I will probably feel more comfortable with it. Could I live without it? Sure. It is not something I could live without. Bottom line, it is nice but not something to die for. When I get it to the track I will know if it really makes any difference.
  12. How about a 996TT with H&R Springs? Cannot say there is a whole lot of difference. I do track the car and aside from the benefit of increased camber due to the lower ride height I cannot say that there is a whole lot of difference in how the car handles. The car looks way better though. :D
  13. Rob Dietsch at Dietsch werks in Sunnyvale at 665 E. El Camino 408-735-9287. $15 per tire plus disposal. He is a Porsche/BMW guy. He has a Hunter machine and knows how to use it.
  14. $2K is a bit much IMHO. It should not take more than 8 hours to complete.
  15. You can order the Porsche tools from the dealer. I have the B90 and it works fine. However if you only buy the Porsche kit (as opposed to the master kit) you do not get all of the pieces that you need (you also have to buy the hub extractor bracket and an adapter plate). The B90-P can put the bearing in but without the extractor bracket you cannot take it out. You do not need them however. Without the tools the tricky part is that when you put the wheel carrier in the press it is a little tricky getting it level so that when you use a socket or piece of pipe to push out the hub and then the wheel bearing everything is square. It is hard to get level as the surface of the wheel carrier is not flat so that when you support the wheel carrier you need different size supports. It is kind of hard to describe but you will see what I mean once you have the wheel carrier in your hands and you try to support in on the press. You will also need a bearing or pulley puller/separator as when you first push out the wheel hub the inner bearing race retainer will separate from the bearing and will still be attached to the wheel hub. When you start this put the new bearing in the freezer and when you reassemble heat the wheel carrier with a torch and reinserting the bearing will go easier. ed
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