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Everything posted by ar38070

  1. I would not think the wheel bearing has anything to do with it. If the bearing were bad enough to cause brake problems you would have noticed other problems first. Also usually when the bearing goes bad the noise is more of a low pitched rrrrrrrr or moaning kind of noise. At least that what mine have all sounded like and I have replaced four of them. I do not think that a brake pedal that changes height from the cold start position is anything to worry about. As long as the pedal is consistent once the car is moving then I do not think you have any problem. It sounds like you have not had the car back on the track since the master cylinder change. If that is that case then (assuming your high pitch whine is not some other problem) then take the car to the track and try it out.
  2. As far as I know you can use anti-seize everywhere. :D I think it is advisable 1) where there are two different metals (steel screw, aluminum bracket, 2) where there is a lot of heat, 3) where there is water or other fluid and the potential for corrosion 4) where you want to be sure that the nut or bolt can be loosened in the future. Also I thinks it helps when you torque a bolt as it lubricates and results in a more consistent tightening. I cannot think of anytime that using it would be bad. It is more a question of remembering to use it. I just thought of a time when you would not use it. :D If you had a bolt or nut that you did not want to come loose i.e. you were using loctite to make sure it did not come loose or a nut with a nylon insert. I hope that you were able to get the broken bits out and that you do not have a similar experience in the future.
  3. There could have been corrosion as you suggest or galling if they were removed in the past and were reinstalled without any anti-sieze. Or maybe they were reinstalled and over-torqued and were damaged.
  4. The only thing that I can think of is that you might have cross threaded the bolt. You can put them in by hand i.e. no wrench until the last turn to make sure that you have not cross threaded them. There is no way you could snap them off that way.
  5. I have had mine out at least a dozen times over the last 8 years without any problems. The torque spec is 17 ft/lbs which is not a whole lot. Replace them and move on.
  6. WHERE H&R bolts? I am almost sure collars cannot be removed. www.hrsprings.com The collars can be removed. Many people have done this. Here is a website that offers the Porsche bolts. http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?t=AccLugsLocks ed
  7. As far as I know the "bearing" is #3 in your diagram. Instead of using stock parts your can get camber plates from The Racers Group that will replace this part. Benefits are 1) price $500 a pair 2) the "bearing is now a monoball so less play 3) you can crank in more camber than stock if you like. ed
  8. You can use the H&R bolts that are 7mm longer. If I remember correctly they are the 52mm bolts. You will have to transfer the collars from your original bolts to the new bolts.
  9. The locking bolt is 996 361 057 90 and I believe the regular bolt is 996 361 203 90. ed
  10. Just grab them and pull them off. The inner surface is just a rubber seal on the piston. The outer surface may be a little harder as there is some spring tension holding it in place. The spring is a metal ring that is molded inside of the seal.
  11. Well I just changed mine yesterday. I had driven one a few years ago and did not think much of it. I got a good deal on a a b&m pre-installed in a housing so that it was a drop in, no cutting, so I figured what the heck. So I have driven it one day. The effort is definitely greater. It feels kind of neat. The throw feels a lot less. With time I will probably feel more comfortable with it. Could I live without it? Sure. It is not something I could live without. Bottom line, it is nice but not something to die for. When I get it to the track I will know if it really makes any difference.
  12. How about a 996TT with H&R Springs? Cannot say there is a whole lot of difference. I do track the car and aside from the benefit of increased camber due to the lower ride height I cannot say that there is a whole lot of difference in how the car handles. The car looks way better though. :D
  13. Rob Dietsch at Dietsch werks in Sunnyvale at 665 E. El Camino 408-735-9287. $15 per tire plus disposal. He is a Porsche/BMW guy. He has a Hunter machine and knows how to use it.
  14. $2K is a bit much IMHO. It should not take more than 8 hours to complete.
  15. You can order the Porsche tools from the dealer. I have the B90 and it works fine. However if you only buy the Porsche kit (as opposed to the master kit) you do not get all of the pieces that you need (you also have to buy the hub extractor bracket and an adapter plate). The B90-P can put the bearing in but without the extractor bracket you cannot take it out. You do not need them however. Without the tools the tricky part is that when you put the wheel carrier in the press it is a little tricky getting it level so that when you use a socket or piece of pipe to push out the hub and then the wheel bearing everything is square. It is hard to get level as the surface of the wheel carrier is not flat so that when you support the wheel carrier you need different size supports. It is kind of hard to describe but you will see what I mean once you have the wheel carrier in your hands and you try to support in on the press. You will also need a bearing or pulley puller/separator as when you first push out the wheel hub the inner bearing race retainer will separate from the bearing and will still be attached to the wheel hub. When you start this put the new bearing in the freezer and when you reassemble heat the wheel carrier with a torch and reinserting the bearing will go easier. ed
  16. Briefly, 1) Take off the wheel 2) Take off the Brake caliper and rotor, disconnect the ABS sensor 3) Disconnect the sway bar 4) Using the correct tool, pop the two ball joints, one for steering arm, one for the control arm 5) Lift the wheel carrier off of the ball joints, you will have to compress the spring/strut to do this 6) Either slide the wheel carrier off of the strut or undo the 3 nuts holding the top of the strut to the body and take the wheel carrier/strut assembly off of the car ed
  17. Why do you say I wouldn't want Hoosiers for a full track? It seems to be the tire of choice for PCA races. Perhaps you're thinking of a different Hoosier tire. The popular tires are the A3S04's and and now S05's. https://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm There are two kinds of hoosiers, "As" and "Rs". The "As" are for autocrossing and the "Rs" are for the track. You would never run the "As" on the track.
  18. I can bring my TT or my boxster. Let me know which one and when.
  19. Its the other way round though... Toe in is positive numbers and toe out is for positive numbers. On the road and using 34psi front and 39 in the rear the car's steering felt slightly darty (loose) at highway speeds (very, very slightly) kind of when you run with empty tank vs full tank and this was due to less toe in which increases turn in sharpness but has the side effect. The car now on the road (this is very important since you spend 99% of the time on the road) feels neutral with slight power oversteering. The only thing that still bothers me is the tire pressure as I was used to increase tire pressures (BMW's) and in this car I had to lower them and quite a long way (from 44 to 39 in the rear), I wonder why is this and if tire wear increases noticeably... You are right the Porsche spec is for slight toe in not out. I do not know if it is me or Porsche but + to me would mean out not in. I think that the high spec rear pressure is to promote understeer i.e. for safety. I too run less in the rear and more in the front than spec.
  20. These are the boxster diagrams. The 996 should be similar. When people talk about lubing bushings I have always assumed that they mean item 2 in the drawings as these are the rubber parts that secure the bar to the body.
  21. Yes the one between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. You may also just want to check to see if the connector is loose first and/or that the connection is clean.
  22. P0133 is "Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of the Three way catalytic converter (cylinders 1 to 3)". P1275 is "Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of the Three way catalytic converter (cylinders 1 to 3)" - Below lower limit. I interpret this as P0133 you have a sensor problem. P1275 by the way it seems to be reading low.
  23. I believe it is the clutch line.
  24. Under the rear of the car. Locate the exhaust manifold, follow the pipes toward the muffler. Between the manifold and the exhaust are the catalytic convertors. On either side of the catalytic converter are the O2 sensors. Your code indicates the sensor between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic convertor is faulty. The O2 sensors are numbered 23 in the attached picture. The picture only shows two of the four O2 sensors that are present.
  25. The manual says this is the front O2 sensor bank 1. That is the passenger side. I would swap the O2 sensors side to side and see if the problem moves with the sensor. If it does then replace.
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