ar38070

did you try the other key?

Do I really need to pull the front wheel carriers out with the front struts?  Removing the lower ball joints and releasing them seems a bit unnecessary.  Is this really needed to do to swap springs?

Secondly, if this IS needed to do...where can I get special tool #9560??  How much?

TIA.

Chad

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Theoretically doable on the front but not the rear. What makes it difficult is removing the nut at the top of the strut. Just easier to do on the bench.

You used to be able to get the 9560 from performance products but I have not seen it in their catalog for a while.

You can try here:

http://www.continentalimports.com/porsche_part.html

or the dealer can get you one. You can use other ball joint tools but I like the porsche one. I have seen prices anywhere from $100-$400.

If the pistons are out then just make sure that they do not get anything inside the piston holes.

Bolts can be re-used.

Do not know about the dome light but are you saying the windows do not work at all (wont go down)?

As Loren said the 4 pin connector is normally not used so has nothing to do with your dome light/windows problem.

If this is the standard manual seat then you first remove the handle that controls the seat height by pulling it straight off. Then remove the two small screws. There are two plastic hooks on the back of the panel at the bottom edge. Grab the panel and slide it up then out. The seat tilt switch has to be disconnected from the back after the panel is off.

If you want the piece of mind great. However before you spend the money call your insurance company or your local police dept. They should be able to tell you the theft rate for a boxster.

Yes I know there is a list of porsche codes but here is a generic online decoder (there are probably others out there):

http://www.diagnosticdialog.com/LookupCode.asp

Rotor, use a micrometer. A dial caliper might work though it would depend on how much of a lip there is on the rotor.

Pad thickness use a ruler or using stock pads use them till the holes for the sensors are just worn into.

Sparcos only for Japanese cars? BS.

Any non-porsche seat will need some kind of adapter to fit it to the car. Brey-Kraus (www.bkauto.com) makes some for certain seats (mainly sparco, recaro, momo). The nice thing about the GT3 seat is that it bolts in directly. It will cost somewhere between $100-$300 to mount a non-porsche seat in your car.

Regardless of what seat you buy, if you buy a shell, you will lose most seat adjustability (height, tilt, heater, etc.). Also you will lose easy access to the rear seat from the driver side.

If you have no intention of tracking the car then you should try one out as 1)they are not as comfortable (less padding), 2) they are not as easy to get into and out of. Also depending on the seat, rearward visibility, i.e. when you turn your head, may be reduced.

You also need to either transfer the seat belt receptacle from the stock seat to the new seat or buy a new one and also wire it in so as to keep the airbag light from going off and to enable the correct operation of the airbag system. And you need to figure out how to mount the receptacle to the new seat.

Are you going to trailer your car? If not then you wont be using slicks but DOT-R tires. Lots of people track their cars on this type of tire and as far as I know no one has had a problem.

If you want to do the conversion look at accusump. www.accusump.com.

I do not know if EVO or FVD will sell you only the parts to install your existing TT brakes. They may only sell complete kits.

Whatever you use after the wheel is clean, wax it.

The footwell lights are an option ($700).

No idea on what needs to be changed but measure the distance between the two mounting holes on the caliper. Then measure the the stock 996 caliper. If they are different (probably) then you will have to replace the wheel carriers. You would probably want to use GT3/GT2 carriers as the turbo front carriers are set up for AWD.

Also I hope that you have 18" wheels or larger as 17's wont clear the caliper.

You can also use speed bleeders. These replace the normal bleed screws with one way ball valves. You loosen one then as you pump the brake pedal fluid comes out but air will not come back in when you release the pedal. You keep topping off the reservoir as you bleed each caliper. They are $7 each and you need 8 of them.

www.speedbleeder.com

The under seat harnesses are different. If the car originally had sport seats and you are now trying to install power seats you will not be able to connect all of the connectors as they wont be there. This will be a problem as you wont be able to power the seat so the front/back, height and seat memory functions will not work. You do not even have the buttons on the door sill for the seat memory. This retrofit done correctly will cost a lot of money. Your best bet is to locate a set of sport seats.

Horizontal 6 engines are a bit different than your V6 or I6. I think due to the layout they can be more prone to ring leakage. Do non know exactly why but seems to be the case. For example the cloud that a lot of people notice on startup. Also break in procedure, as in all engines, can determine how well the rings are seated and consequenly subsequent oil consumption.

You do not need to use a coolant/water mix. Just put in water.

Possible not likely. Go to Kragens, autozone and have them read the codes.

Just tuck the sub-belt between the back cushion and the bottom cushion (where the seat folds).

I have had the 4417's in my 98 for 26K miles and no problems that I am aware of. I track my car 30-40 days a year so the plugs see a lot of high rpm work. They will be coming out in the near future (56k on the car now) so I will post pictures then.

Metric sockets, wrenches, torx bits, hex bits. 1/2", 3/8" torque wrenches. Oil filter removal tool. Floor jack. Usual assortment of screwdrivers, pliers.

Get a copy of the shop manual or look at the DIY that are archived here and read through the procedures that you want to do and note what tools are listed.

The michelins are good. Assuming you still want wet weather capability you could look at some of the near DOT-R tires like the Goodrich KD/KDW, Yokohama AVS Sport. There are lots of choices. Check www.tirerack.com and use their tire selector.

If you do not care about wet weather capability then use a DOT-R tire like the Michelin PSC, Dunlop Super Sport Race, Toyo RA-1.

If you have a six point sub belt then you can bolt it to the front seat rail mounting bolts.

I know that you do not want to drill holes but before you buy anything you should be sure you know how and where you are going to attach the inboard lap belt.

It is not necessary to corner balance the car. You can just have the car set to whatever ride height you want.

An alignment is not a corner balance.

A corner balance is usually 2-3 hours of labor.

If you intend to track the car then you probably want to have it corner balanced. You also probably want to have a different alignment from stock which is another topic of discussion. If you corner balance the car it should be done at the weight distribution that it will be run at i.e. empty the trunk(s), remove the spare tire, remove all loose items from the cockpit, half a tank of gas, driver buckled in with helmet, etc.

If you want details of what a corner balance accomplishes google it on the web. There are a lot of technical sources out there.