ar38070

Me too.

Each bar of the electronic graph is 1/4 of a quart. Check it every 1000 miles or so.

Assuming this is a 986, 996, 987,997 non-turbo (not a TT or GT2) nor a GT3 then measure when it when the car is not running and cold, sitting at least for an hour.

If it is a TT, GT2 or GT3 then measure it when it is hot and running.

While PDE is a lot of fun if you are really interested in learning how to drive on the track your money will go a lot further with a lot of the private groups that rent the track. Depending on the track, meals, etc, typical private track days run $200-400 per day.

For example right now I am at Willow Springs and the event cost was $235 for two days (www.speedventures.net).

Post a picture of the connector.

Thanks for the help guys. I took it to a Porsche dealership and they told me that I was 1 & 3/4 quarts low on oil...I wasnt aware as to how sensitive the oil reading was...I do appreciate the help and quick response though!

Thanks,

Manny

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TT's, GT3's and GT2's measure oil differently than boxster's or regular 996's. You have to measure them hot and with the motor running. I do not know if it is because they are dry sump motors or if it is because that is just the way that Porsche decided to measure it.

Depending on break in, driving style and individual motor tolerances, your car may or may not burn oil. Most people have to add some oil between complete oil changes. Depending on how often you drive the car you should be checking the oil level occasionaly. Probably evey 500 miles or so and topping off the oil as neededl.

Each bar on the electronic gauge is 1/4 of a quart, so from the top to the bottom of the gauge is about 1.5 quarts.

Anyone running 235/40/18 and 295/30/18 (GT3 tire size) on thier C2 or C4 with 18x8J and 18x10J respectively? Anyone aware of any issues?

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I would not put a 295 on a 10" wheel. The max most people run is 285.

212?  I assume that is F?  Do you have any documentation that you could point me towards.  Thanks everybody! 

Thanks for helping me learn about this stuff so I am not just doing what I am told by a piece of paper but rather making informed decisions.

BTW, I would be curious to know what the cup cars in the GT class are running (just the Porsche's) during those grueling long days at high RPM's???

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As I said in my earlier posts they are running 0w-40. These are pros running GT3R's and RS's.

Hello. Is :drive:  there an RPM limiter on the 2000 S? If so at what RPM is it supposed to kick in? I found myself the other day @ 7500 RPM. I thought it was only supposed to go to 6800?? Is this Normal? This is my first porsche...Thank you all for your help

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I believe the rev limiter for a 2000 is 7100 rpm, check the manual. Assuming the rev limiter is working correctly as you reach the limit the gas will cut off. It is possible to exceed the limit if you mistakenly downshift to a lower gear at too high a speed.

Just saw it at the wal-mart in the bay are for $4.89. They had plenty on the shelf at the Mountain View store.

As an interesting note, pro racers, at least the ones that I asked, use 0w-40. Evidently it protects well enough (of course they rebuild their engines frequently, but they have not seen any unusual problems). They use it as it is good for a few extra hp (less drag).

Measure the real circumference and calculate the real diameters to see what your true starting point is. Then I would try to stay within 2% of that. If the fronts are 3% smaller then I would try to find front tires that are 1-5% smaller.

It also may not be that critical. If you are not driving at the ABS or PSM threshold then the point is moot. The activation point may be a little early or late but it is not the end of the world.

Some people subscribe to the belief that when you first start doing DE's and Autox that you should learn on street tires as they give more warning. You could try this out but instead of using expensive street tires use cheap ones like Kumhos.

Look underneath the plastic covers on either side of the battery cover. You will need a torx 25 to take of the covers. On either side you will see the top of the strut held in place with 3 nuts (12mm if I remember correctly). That is where you adjust the camber.

If you change the camber the toe will change. You adjust the toe underneath the car with the steering links. You need two large wrenches, somewhere around 22mm to adjust the linksLook underneath the plastic covers on either side of the battery cover. You will need a torx 25 to take of the covers. On either side you will see the top of the strut held in place with 3 nuts (12mm if I remember correctly). That is where you adjust the camber.

If you change the camber the toe will change. You adjust the toe underneath the car with the steering links. You need two large wrenches, somewhere around 22mm to adjust the links

You cannot go by the marked numbers on the tires. A 235/40 from one manufacturer is not necessarily the same diameter as from another. You should measure the tires that you have now and see if there is really a 3.57% delta. What I really mean is the a 234/40 calculates to x diamter, a 265/35 calculates to y diameter. x and y may not be the real diameters due to a manufacturer's liberal interpretation of the spec.

Having said that there may well be that much of a delta and assuming that the PSM and ABS are designed for that delta (what is you source for that statement?) then you should try to maintain that delta with any tires that you get in the future.

986 systems were calibrated for the same size tires front and rear. The allowed delta front to rear was 4%. People have reported that putting on tires with that much delta upset the ABS system. A delta of 2% seemed okay.

Porsche (whether consciously or not) screwed people over with the new cars and their choice of tire sizes. You may have to wait until the tire manufacturers catch up with the new sizes.

While the reduced front tire size will cause the car to understeer more as a novice there will be other more imporatant things to concern yourself with.

Your temp is normal. Adding another radiator wont lower the operating temp as that is regulated by the thermostat. Even if it gets to the tick between 180 and 250 (215) there is nothing to worry about.

At the track we routinely run at and above the 215 mark. No big deal.

Actually you are right. There is a bolt (10 mm head) that holds the rigid part of the brake line to the wheel carrier. Just follow the brake line from the caliper and you will find it. Remove that also then the flex part of the brake line allows you to move the caliper away from the disk.

You may have to squeeze the pads back away from the rotor and remove the pads first depending on how much of a lip you have on the rotor.

The audi/vw stuff is the same. It does not say it in big lettters but if you read the fine print it is the same stuff. Do not know about the price but it is probably cheaper.

You do not have to remove the brake line from the caliper. You just undo the two bolts holding the caliper to the wheel carrier and then suspend the caliper with some wire while you work on the disk.

1) no idea

2) There is a round plastic hole in the plastic grill. The temp sensor goes in it.

Try here:

http://www.workshopmanuals.co.uk/

If you need one Harbor Freight now has an equivalent. Item number 92882. Not only do you get the Porsche tool but you get 4 other tools and a storage case for $90. :)

The original boxster rear wheel is 23#.

996 362 126 05 8.5x17 et50

Have a look at the coolant. See if it is discolored/contaminated with oil. Have you ever changed the oil? If not change it and check to see if it is contaminated with coolant. Under normal every day driving, under moderate temperature conditions (under 90 degrees), the temp should never be over 215 (the tick mark between 180 and 250. Hopefully it is just clogged radiators. Otherwise it might be the start of block or head gasket leak. :(

You might check the rails that the clam shell slides in. With the clam shell up you can look underneath as see where the forward edge slides in a rail. You might need to put a little lubricant on the rail.

No, the inside holes are offset forward of the outside holes so that the mounting brackets are unique to the driver's side and passenger's side.

and you will need longer bolts. Also usually when you get the bolts you will have to move the collars from the old bolts to the new ones. H&R makes appropriate wheel spacers and bolts.