ar38070

Yes the bulb is either bad or not making contact. Do a search on "cluster" or "kluster" and you will find directions on how to remove the cluster to get to the bulbs.

There are two issues.

First does lowering the car cause the damper to exceed its operating range? If not then the car will not bottom out the damper and no damage will occur.

Second does the spring rate differ significantly enough from the stock spring rate such that the damper/spring dynamics are adversely effected?

Again the few numbers that I have seen show that the aftermarket springs rates are within 10% of the stock rates.

You can buy matched set of shocks and dampers if it makes you feel better. There are a lot of people that have done spring only changes and there are no mass reports of problems. If you do not track your car the vast majority of people wont even notice the difference.

Assuming it was working before you took off the bumper then I would go back over your install and check that you have not knocked something loose. And you can check the fuses too though that is not likely the problem.

Another thought on this.  Many times the aftermarket springs lower the car too much for the stock dampers, which can cause the dampers to wear very quickly and/or fail quickly. 

I have seen this explanation a number of times and it makes no sense to me. Lowering the car should not cause the dampers to fail unless the car has been lowered so much that the damper bottoms out. If someone has an explanation as to why a properly lowered car would wear out the dampers prematurely I would like to hear it.

If the spring rate is so far off so that the damper is some how over worked then I suppose that could lead to premature failure. The fact that a spring is progressive should not in and of itself be the reason for premature failure.

I know a number of people who have done spring only changes on 986s and 996s. I have not heard from anyone that they have had to replace any dampers to date. I have one car (996TT) with a spring only change with probably 6k miles since the change. I track this car so it has gotten a good workout. No problems so far.

Not very much! :) Sorry could not resist. While I do not have exact numbers you really cannot get normal sized adults back there.

Pull the existing bolt and check the thread.

The suspension is not the issue with the 97s. "Weak" mounting points were the problem supposedly. There were some reports of body cracks.

18x10s should fit on most cars. I have H&R coilovers on my car. Several friends have PSS9s. We all have 18x10s on our cars.

There are wheel clearance issues and tire clearance issues.

The wheel clearance issue is on the inside where the wheel can touch the strut. You fix this with spacers if necessary. This is more a problem with coilovers as the spring perch is much lower than on the stock strut. It is even a bigger problem with the euro PSS9s as they used larger diameter springs than the US spec ones.

The tire clearance issue is usually on the outside up against the wheel well. This is only a problem when people insist on using very wide tires. 265s should never be a problem, 275s are usually okay, 285s maybe, 295+ you probably need to roll the fenders, increase camber, etc.

Unless you remove the key and then put it back in some of the electrics stay on, like the dash lights. You can see this if you have the radio on when you turn off the engine. The radio will stay on until you remove the key. If you take the key out the radio will turn off, then you can put the key back in.

These are the possible causes per the OBDII manual:

secondary air injection pump is not triggered

secondary air injection pump does not work

air supply lines restricted

electric change over valve does not funtion

air change over valve does not function

vacuum system leaks

The diagnostic steps are quite complicated and some need a PST2. I would check for loose hoses, air and vacuum leaks. After that I would take it to the dealer or to someone who has a PST2. I do not believe that this has anything to do with the diverter valves. This is an emissions control problem.

Swapping is okay as long as the two cars use the same MAF (they can be different) and there are no funny changes (like filters, manifolds, ecu, etc). It is usually better to put the good one in the bad car to see if the bad car gets better.

Large spacers are okay as long as they are made correctly. A wheel with a spacer does not load the suspension any differently than a wheel with the equivalent offset.

I do not like doing it for aesthetic reasons. I prefer that my wheels fit right the first time. Also with wheel spacers you have to remember to use the right size bolts all the time.

A 8x18 wheel needs a 50mm offset. A 10x18 wheel needs a 40mm offset. So you need 25mm spacers for the rear. 15mm might be enough but depending on what tire width you use you may have rubbing problems on the inside.

It is unlikely that the 18" wheel/tire combo will weigh less than the 17" wheel tire combo. The wheels might weigh a little less because of the design but the tires will be heavier.

Here is a table showing oil analysis for some of the current mobil 1 products for reference:

On the track you do not want to run street tires at less than 41/45 hot. If you run less than that you will roll the tires and cord the outside shoulders if the car has street alignment.

Spirited driving means different things to different people so what works for one person may not for another. I would start at the factory settings, drop pressures a pound at time and watch your tire wear.

Also tire gages are never accurate. At the track once I got 4 or 5 from different people. The variance was 3#. Use a decent one and if you can use two. Check them against each other so you can see if one of them starts to go bad.

"Dust free" and "Little Dust" and not synonyms.

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You said "Dust free" not me. Again I have never seen even "little dust" claimed by Porsche for PCCBs.

You can lock youself in the seat for free two ways.

1) Recline the seat backwards and/or slide it back in the track, jerk the shoulder belt and then while the belt is locked tilt the seat back forward and/or slide the seat forward until your body holds the belt in its locked state.

2) You can "lock" the lap belt by twisting the buckle once or twice before inserting it into the recepticle.

Make sure the gas tank is near empty, less than a 1/4. At a typical autox you wont even use 1 gallon. If you have the trip computer it should read about 50-75 miles to go when you arrive. Gas weighs about 7#/gallon.

Bring a tire gage and some way to inflate the tires.

Take advantage of any instruction. Going faster takes practice. 3-4 times a year is not often enough.

Do you really mean race or do you mean driving on the track like a DE?

What is your reference for dust free PCCB? I do not recall ever seeing that claim in the Porsche literature.

There is all kinds of information floating around about Mobil 1 oils. Unfortunately it is hard to get consistent info about the different grades and versions. For example:

Regardless of weight, the new formulations are different than the older ones. Supposedly the new 15w-50 is not the same as the older red cap version. If you find red cap 15w-50 I believe it is old stock. The new versions are not color coded like before.

0w-40 supposedly has less additives than before and this may be true of all of the new formulas. Supposedly this was done as it is better for the catalytic converters.

15w-50 is no longer on the approved Porsche list. Who knows why.

I believe that aftermarket springs are fine. I am talking about your normal lowering springs like you are considering such as H&R and Eibach etc. and not track only springs.

The biggest difference that I see between the aftermarket springs and the stock springs, aside from the fact that they are shorter, is that they are progressive. The few numbers that I have seen indicate that the aftermarket spring rates bracket the stock spring rate. So if the stock spring is 200lbs the aftermarket is 180-220lbs for example. YMMV.

The nice thing about aftermarket springs is that on the road they are a little softer so the car rides a little less harsh. However if you drive aggressively the car tightens up a little. Again the difference is very smal compared to stock as the spring rates are not that different. The main advantage is that they lower the car and the car looks better to most people. Oh and of course they are a lot cheaper than a ROW kit.

Pagid yellow are a lot harder on the rotors than orange. Orange are harder than the stock pads.

I use orange on the track and stock on the street. Though if some brake squeal does not bother you just leave the orange in. Most of the time I am lazy and leave the orange in all the time.

To me brake dust is like dirt. You wash it off.

I do not see how switching to PCCBs would eliminate brake dust. All pads wear. That means they make dust. Some dust is more noticeable than others but the dust has to go somewhere. As there are multiple compounds available for the PCCBs from Porsche, at least two, street and track, I am sure that at least the track versions put out noticeable dust.

You buy it at the dealer. The Audi stuff is the same. May be cheaper there.

I believe a generic OBDII reader can read all the codes but may not give the correct definition of the code. So the reader will tell you if there is an active code but you may have to check the meaning of the code with the Porsche OBDII manual.

There are certain functions that only a PST2 or PIWIS can do however, such as opening the valves for the ABS/PSM systems, clearing the airbag light, etc.

You should know sooner than that. Your OBDII software should be able to show you pending codes. They should show up in 20-50 miles.

If I read that post of yours correctly your long term fuel trim is 30.5 which means that it is maxed out. This looks like a MAF problem.

P1126 is Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

This means that the fuel mixture is as rich as possible. You should be able to smell this. The exhaust will be "sweet" from excess fuel.

As far as I can tell there is no P1133 code.