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deilenberger

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Everything posted by deilenberger

  1. Very nice Chris. Please keep us informed on how well it holds up, and I'll be quite interested to hear what Blackstone has to say..
  2. Cool. I see by your sig that you're well qualified to make a determination. Smell? Other people have noted a burned clutch smell to the oil when it's that dark. It's a bit debatable what color it started out as. I've seen things suggesting the factory fill started out as blue, but all replacement fluids are red. Dunno if that's true or not. Should know in about a week when I get mine changed out. My guess is what we're seeing is burned clutch material suspended in the fluid. I'll be very interested in how yours drives now. Being a stick shift we can immediately take slippage of the automatic transmission out of the equation, which is good.
  3. Chris - no real tricks. It's as straightforward as it sounds. What year is your wife's Cayenne? Just curious. And be very interested in hearing what the result of the fluid change is.. funny thing. When I was at the dealer, looking at a dead transfer-case sitting on the shop floor, I asked about the fluid change. Shop foreman said "Lifetime fluid - never changed" - I just pointed to the dead one on the floor - and said "Lifetime up?" I think he got it. But they never mentioned ever trying a fluid change before replacing the case. I'm guessing the Porsche protocol is "case misbehaving - replace".. rather than fix. Just hoping that in at least some cases - changing the fluid may help the problem. Save a bit of the old fluid coming out - I'd love to see what it looks like from a case experiencing the problem. BTW - was chatting with my mechanic friend who is pretty hooked into the Ferrari world. He said their dual-clutch transmissions are lasting 5-15,000 miles, and then start exhibiting similar grabby clutch action. Ferrari replaces them - but some enthusiasts have tried RAVENOL dual-clutch-transmission fluid, and reported that within 30 miles or so - the bad behavior starts clearing up. Probably not in all cases - if the clutches really got hammered - but at least in some cases - saves a many thousands of $$ repair. BTW - Ravenol Transfer Case synthetic, meeting Porsche spec: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCVP6UK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_
  4. There is certainly no rush on it - I'm just curious if there is ANY documentation on what the values mean, and where they come from. I had assumed the V40 measurement was done as a resistance measurement through the oil - more metal in the oil = more wear, but now I'm not so sure. Since they do give a max value as an indication the oil should be changed - it doesn't seem like it would be just a calculated value - that could be made mileage dependent fairly easily. But - the fact that they have you reset it to 0 after changing the oil - almost makes me think it's calculating the torque (a measurement of force) that has gone through the transfer case. Mystery. That is the only mention of that value in the service manual, and none of the other values are ever mentioned.
  5. The Head - are you doing the 2nd oil change with the same oil? I know on another forum you mentioned you've been driving it all week - hard - and have not experienced any of the symptoms it formerly exhibited. And I seem to recall you used the Mutol listed as compatible by Pelican?
  6. It reads them - but no real explanation of what they mean or what's acceptable. Here is a text version of the data it reports: =====2017-02-11 16:28:39===== V10_Transmission wear integrator- mileage since last oil service 71377.73 mile V20_Transmission wear integrator- chain 277653360 j V30_Transmission wear integrator- clutch 1113942712 j V40_Transmission wear integrator- oil 78 kwh V50_Transmission wear integrator- roll-over counter 110988 V60_Disc wear integrator- disc work 0.2- 2.0 kw 56611416 j V70_Disc wear integrator- disc work < 0.2kW 171189563 j V80_Disc wear integrator - disc work > 2 kW 2086066 j Any idea what the numbers mean? I assume all the measurements are in units of power (kWh, and Joules) - but don't quite understand why that's so.. by the spec's from the manual - my V40 oil wear integrator number is fine.
  7. I believe the PN is the same as the older plugs - starts with 955.. but - in looking at photos of it on Pelican's website, it looks like a simple threaded plug with some sealant on the threads. I would guess some Teflon tape pipe sealant will work just fine, and since the plugs are around $20/each - I believe I'll be reusing mine.
  8. You were experiencing symptoms? I'd love to have gotten a wear indicator reading on your old oil. I can read this with the iCarScan, and the factory service manual gives a maximum value. This is what the manual says: WM 0335IN DIAGNOSTIC MAINTENANCE: RESETTING DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM AND SERVICE INTERVAL (CAYENNE, CAYENNE S, CAYENNE S E-HYBRID, CAYENNE TURBO, CAYENNE (3.0), CAYENNE GTS & CAYENNE TURBO S) > RESETTING SERVICE INTERVAL > READING OUT TRANSFER GEAR WEAR INTEGRATOR The transmission wear integrator oil must be checked during every intermediate maintenance/maintenance. 1. Start PIWIS Tester II 9818 and follow the instructions on the Tester. 2. Select the vehicle type and start the PIDT. 3. Select the All-wheel menu. 4. Select the Actual values, input signals menu. 5. Select the T_wear integrators menu. Press [F12] to continue. 6. Read out the value for V40 transmission wear integrator - oil . If this value is greater than 145 kWh , the oil in the transfer gear must be changed → Changing oil for transfer gear. If the value is lower, no further action is required. 7. If the oil in the transfer gear has been changed, the value must be deleted and reset to zero by pressing [F8] FWIW - I have no idea why this measurement is in kiloWatt hours (kWh) - http://www.energylens.com/articles/kw-and-kwh since that's a measurement of energy
  9. The BMW stuff is identical to the Porsche original spec oil. And it seems much more readily available (but not any cheaper.)
  10. I'm thinking of taking a sample when I change mine and have Blackstone look at it. I'll have to contact them and see if they have any virgin samples to compare it to..
  11. Rated capacity is 0.85L. It pretty much sits mostly in the bottom of the chain case part until it starts moving then the chain drags some up to the top where it splashes around and lubricates the planetary gear and the clutch assembly. I've found the Porsche capacity listings are pretty accurate (my engine takes exactly 10 quarts of oil- which is 9.5L (9.46353, but who's counting..)
  12. Loren - any TSB on what oil is used in the transfer case on a '11 Cayenne Turbo?  Pelican is claiming 000-043-301-36-OEM has been superseded by 00-403-305-63-OEM.  The first oil seems to be a fairly common GL5 Shell TF-0870 spec oil. Dunno what the second oil is.

     

    Any clarification would be wonderful. I'm about to change the lifetime fluid to prevent a short life.

     

    TIA!

  13. An update - this is also posted on 6-speed-on-line, so if you browse the 958 forum there, you may have seen it already. But in the hopes of bringing some technical activity to RENNTECH - here goes: In one thread somewhere (?) a chap showed a photo of his repair bill for the new transfer case ("X-case" from now on) he received. He mentioned that Porsche had changed the design and that included a modified X-case vent that vented up higher. On his repair order was the PN of the vent - 958-301-047-10. Available from Sunset Porsche for $28.71 (plus shipping.) I thought I'd drop by my FLD* and give them a shot at it, and see if I could glom any more info. Turns out it was a good day to do that since they just finished replacing a X-case on a 958 /S - and had the old one on the shop floor waiting to get boxed up and returned to Porsche. What I found out: - The X-cases are still made by the same manufacturer. Indeed - the ones available are generally REBUILT ones done by that manufacturer. So - same basic design. - The vent IS a change. On the existing X-Case the vent comes right out of the top of the large cylindrical part of the case (where the clutch lives) and is capped by one of the rather common fish-mouth sort of rubber caps that Porsche so loves (they are a sort of 1-way device - at least supposed to be for moisture. Maybe.) This cap just slips over a small hose sort of fitting that threads into the top of the case. The idea being that air can pass through the fish-mouth part of it Took forever to find this: Transfer Case Vent - photo shamelessly borrowed from eBay. The old transfer case was right there - so I got to look closely at it. As part of the kit - the fitting on top of the case is unscrewed and a new fitting screwed in that connects to a corrugated plastic tube (Porsche is SO fond of these..) The plastic tube is then run up the firewall into the engine compartment - with all sorts of neat fittings and clips and tie-off points. The idea being - move the input to the vent to a dry heated area. Problem is - the clearance isn't there to do this replacement with the X-Case in the vehicle. BUT - my thinking is - simply remove the rubber cap/seal - put some high-temperature teflon tubing over the end of the existing fitting and run that up into the engine compartment. Come up with some way of using the existing rubber-seal on the end of that tubing. So - that's the plan. I'll be doing this while changing the X-case fluid. The shop-lead mentioned that the fluid is spec'd as "Lifetime" fill - and I just pointed to the X-case sitting on the shop floor - that apparently had exceeded it's lifetime. He agreed that a change of fluid is probably a good idea. Next challenge - which fluid? There is 000-043-301-36OEM - which was "superseded" by 000-043-305-63OEM. Cost at the dealer was around $75. Cost from Sunset Porsche is $47. I gave the dealer a chance to make the sale - but the difference is simply too much, even figuring I'll have to pay shipping from Sunset. The first oil is also available from Pelican for less $$, but I think I'm going with the new oil. Oh - one other change the shop lead mentioned they make to the new X-case - is a new slinger on the output spline shaft, apparently to toss water differently from how it's tossed now if the vehicle is driven in heavy rain or water. They were told that the "fix" for the cases is to keep the fluid from getting contaminated - and that's the reason for these modifications. I'll try to remember to take some photos. * FLD = Friendly Local Dealership
  14. Thanks - I saw the Pelican listing, and the alternatives they list may be fine, the Shell is the same oil Porsche relabeled and sold, and the other I'd like to hear from someone who has used it. What's interesting - if you look at the Porsche/Shell fluid - the details on the oil notes that "Part Number 000-043-301-36-OEM has been superseded to 000-043-305-63-OEM" - doesn't say when - but I imagine Porsche has a reason for changing the fluid.. So - it might be a case of me getting the expensive factory fluid with the new PN.. Grrrrr..
  15. Folks, On another forum I follow, there is an ongoing thread on transfer-case failures and replacements. Some people have experienced multiple failures, many people none whatsoever. One person showed a photo of his repair order, which included something interesting. Besides replacing the transfer case, they also replaced a vent hose for the transfer case. When he asked his service adviser - the adviser said Porsche had issued a WB (workshop bulletin) instructing them to replace the vent hose when the case was replaced. The open end of the vent hose was now located above the level of the transfer case, where before it ended low down on the transfer case. The explanation for this by the SA was that Porsche determined that moisture was getting sucked into the cases and causing fluid contamination. Since the Xfer-case uses a multiplate wet clutch (much like a common design on motorcycles) - I can see where moisture might cause corrosion or rust that could cause the clutch to bind and work erratically - giving the symptoms described on failing cases. So - I'm going to order and install the revised vent, and also do a preventative fluid change at the same time. Since the Porsche fluid is silly-priced (about $80/liter) - I thought I'd ask if anyone has an alternative that they've used. There are several "transfer case" fluids that I've seen mentioned as alternatives, but I'm looking for first hand experience here.. who has used what? For those interested - the PN for the revised vent is: 958-301-047-10. Roughly $30 from Sunset (least expensive I could find.. but I'm giving my FLD* a shot at it too..) TIA! * FLD = Friendly Local Dealer
  16. What model do you have? You should be able to determine if your car has Servotronic by doing a VIN# search one any of many available websites that offer it. It might be bundled in a "package" depending on your model though. One chap on another forum took his Servotronic fuse out of his 958 claiming it greatly improved steering feel at speed. He did note that the car became much heavier to steer at low speeds though. If you have Servotronic - first thing I'd look at is the fuse. Second thing is hook it up to a good Porsche code reader and see what faults are hidden away..
  17. I think spending a bit of time with your owners manual would be productive. What I don't understand is you apparently used to own a 957 Cayenne - and in my experience - the 958 HVAC system behaves much the same as the 957- with the exception that there is actually some heat sent to the drivers tootsies when called for. The "Defrost" button is also a "Defog" function - and the behavior is EXACTLY what's expected and EXACTLY what your 957 should also have done. It's max temperature - all the heater is capable of - with the AC evaporator chilling and DRYING the air before it's heated by the heater core. As far as your other problem - what is an "air toggle" that you're turning on? I suspect if you set the HVAC to AUTO mode, and simply adjust the temperature the system will do exactly what you hope and want it to. In AUTO mode it will speed up the fan and crank up the heat in response to an increase in the desired temperature setting. When the interior of the car reaches the desired setting it will turn down the fan and lower the heat in order to KEEP it at that requested temperature. This is all assuming that engine is hot. If you just started the vehicle - the fan doesn't increase much in speed since the engineers figured it was better to NOT blow cold or cool air at you when you're asking for hot air. I don't think you have any problem - except understanding how the system works. Mine sits in AUTO mode on both sides, the temperature set to 72F, pretty much all the time. On very rare occasions I find it necessary to press the DEFROST button - but after it's defrosted and I press the button again it reverts to the same mode it was in, AUTO @ 72F.
  18. On another forum - there are some rather long discussions on the XFer case failures. Some people have experienced multiple failures, most people not at all. Supposedly (wasn't me so I can't swear to it) Porsche changed suppliers (sounds unlikely to me.. but that's the claim their service managers were making) - and one for sure change they've made is the location of the end of the XFer case vent line. Apparently the line used to end low, almost below the bottom of the case. They've modified the line so it now ends up high above the case. The supposed reason was to lessen moisture being drawn into the case. If the clutch plates - which apparently are metal to metal - started corroding, they would possibly tend to bind and then release instead of smoothly slipping. It sounds as if this was Porsches diagnosis of the problem (and fix.) I think that also puts some urgency into more frequent changes of the fluid in the xfer case - to remove any contamination/moisture. It may be why certain vehicles suffer multiple failures and others none at all - environmental conditions combined with use patterns may mean some owners/vehicles will experience more rapid contamination of the clutch fluid, leading to more rapid deterioration of the clutch. I know there was a recall on early 958 vehicles for defective clutch assemblies in the xfer case. The claim was made in the recall that the defect was a machining error on the clutch case. The symptoms were identical to what people are now experiencing with a wide range of production date Cayennes (the newest I've heard of is a 2014 - so far..) Anyway - the PN for the new vent tube is 958-301-047-10, around $29 from Sunset (cheapest I found it on line - I'm giving my local friendly dealer's parts department a shot at it - if it's close enough in price - they get the business.)
  19. Brad, I'm sure Porsche does have lots of attorney's out there - probably reading this shortly after I write it.. but a pigtail wiring harness isn't something that can be copyrighted or patented, especially when other vehicles use the same connector (Volvo uses this same connector - with wires going to it - I know because the clock I bought off eBay came with a Volvo connector that I elected not to use..) The connector can be found with some searching (I seem to recall finding it as a Tyco product), but putting one together requires special tools to push the connectors in place - and that also was something I decided to pass up on. It seemed simpler to pay the $90 and get one that was made for the job. A lot of searching last night turned up the source for the cable I bought - again. From Hong Kong - again. Price went up to $100.99. The link is in the other thread. One chap on the other forum did persist on the Porsche Part# that was in the thread, and one finally arrived. He PM'd me last night. It isn't what he expected. It is what I expected seeing the illustration in the parts listing. It's a three-connector cable assembly. Perhaps one of the connectors is the correct one for the clock (that isn't clear yet) - the others are for something else. Makes sense since it was spec'd for a Boxster originally. I'd love to find the elusive Porsche parts guy who really knows how to work the parts system for things like this, I used to have a Volvo guy and a BMW guy - but haven't found the same sort of guy at a Porsche dealer. I think the difference is - the parts guys at Porsche can't afford a Porsche - even used - so they're not as enthusiastic. The Volvo guy and BMW guys were both enthusiasts who happened to channel their enthusiasm working at the parts counter.
  20. Brad, et.al: You're probably referring to http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/774703-dash-top-chrono-clock-harness.html - The OE clock is easy to find, finding the wiring is not so easy. There is a guy selling a "kit" of the panel, clock and wiring - he wanted silly money for it ($700 or so) on Ebay. I asked about him selling just the harness since I owned several of the clocks - and he wanted $250. Silly price. One popped up for a very short while on Ebay - from Hong Kong - for $90. I jumped on it and it was delivered fine to me. Apparently whoever that was has now disappeared off the US Ebay site. He does appear on the Euro Ebay sites - selling various accessory parts and bling - but won't ship to the USA. Other people mentioned finding a Porsche supplied harness for way less money - but none of them ever reported success in ordering it so I'm guessing that's a pipe dream. Oh - besides the clock working just fine - it also gave me the sport-chrono timer option in the MFD. Trigger button for it is the right side steering-wheel button/wheel. Besides the standard clock, I also have a dash mount sport-chrono, but since I'm not doing laps in the Cayenne I opted for the standard clock. The sport-chrono makes a nice looking desk display, even when not keeping time - but in a Cayenne it would basically be bling (although it does have a digital time display built into it..) The most fun of the dash top clock - watching the hands do their dance when you open the door..
  21. I suspect the oil on the sensor is a non-issue and is probably just a tiny bit of seepage around the seal for it. You got some good advice - but can't see that you really followed up on it. You seem to have lost wrenching interest with the coils.. :-) LESSON: If one coil has crapped out - the other ones are just sitting there thinking about crapping out. They are all the same age and operate in the same environment for the same amount of time. DO all the coils. It was suggested you start checking for hose leaks. I'll describe a method I've used in the past - but am not suggesting you do since I don't know your skill level and you might destroy life as we know it. It involved using something flammable to try to find intake leaks. It should be done OUTDOORS with a really good fire extinguisher handy, with proper eye protection and clothing that won't go up in a puff of smoke. I usually use some flammable carb cleaner - some people use an unlit propane torch. The carb cleaner has the advantage of being quite accurate since I spray it using the red-plastic tube that comes with the can (and when I can't find the tube - it's in the darkest corner of my garage - spiders seem to take them to build nests or something.) I use the spray giving TINY little spritz's of it around any suspected leak points while the engine is idling. ANY (and I'll say it again **ANY**) change in idle means there is a leak where you just sprayed. I'm very careful not to spray on things like the exhaust system, or anything else that might ignite the carb cleaner. In this case - I'd be spraying around the multitude of corrugated plastic pipes that run around the engine, the throttle-body, and the MAF sensors. FWIW - the MAF sensors can be cleaned. They usually don't need to be - but if someone ever used an oil-cloth/foam air filter on the vehicle they quite likely would need cleaning. Hike down to your friendly local auto parts place and look for "CRC MAF Cleaner" - you remove the MAF, and spray the part sticking into the airstream. It's a flat hot-film sensor. Let it dry completely before reinstalling it. There are two of them on your S.. I'm trying to remember what triggers a throttle-body relearn - but I believe it's done when you switch on the ignition and then simply press the gas pedal to the floor without the engine running. You may have to do it 3 times, but I think not. You're just teaching the ECU the travel/vs/resistance reading of the gas pedal and syncing that to the two check-sensors on the throttle body. The top engine mount is also suspect (as was suggested to you.) Use a MAGLITE and look very carefully at the rubber bushings. ANY sign of cracking of the bushings means it's toast and should be replaced. There is also the possibility the lower mounts are sagged - but they're a lot harder to check and on some models (the turbo for sure, not sure on the S) the engine has to be dropped, or the suspension subframe dropped in order to replace them. Bad mounts will allow engine vibration to travel into the vehicle. As far as the "1355 Valve Lift Control, cylinder 3, implausible signal" error - does it tell you if it's presently active? Or how many times it's been captured? I'm not sure how that measurement would be detected - on "cylinder 3" - since the camshaft sensor is on the back end of the camshaft. I suspect it may be looking at the firing time vs the camshaft position for cylinder 3, meaning a bad coil might well give that error message. I'm sure some Porsche tech could tell you. Good luck - let us know how it works out for you.
  22. BTW - most people (me included) find 21" tires somewhat harsh riding on a Cayenne. I prefer how my winter 19"s ride. Other people on other forums have commented on 22" - and the comments weren't generally favorable. But if you're form over function - it might be just what you want. It won't improve performance - the increased weight of the rims/tires will actually decrease the performance.
  23. What is the rolling diameter of both front and back? If it varies by more than about 5% before long you'll be looking for a new transfer case. Porsche has spec's for the permissible difference in diameter for a reason.
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