Mtnbiker326

Just an FYI. The owner/dealer mechanic put the clutch disc in free of charge just to upgrade the clutch that was in it. I paid nothing for it. He just threw it in during a Rms changeout. (also no charge). I figured I would be more concerned about not replacing the Throwout bearing than the flywheel. I also was given the clutch disc for free as well (thrown in for purchasing the car). So if I have to pay for a clutch job... Well I only have to technically pay for it once :)

Sounds good. I have an appt with my mechanic on Tuesday to deal with this and I am driving my truck in the meantime. Thanks for all the help

Thank you. Must have missed this page on their site.

But can thedurametric read engine fault codes too?

Sorry to open this up again but would it be better for me (personal owner with some experience) to purchase the Durametric or a PST2 (for engine fault codes and diags)?

Loren, Do you recommed this software over others, such as http://www.scantool.net/ http://www.autoenginuity.com/ http://www.obd-2.com/ http://www.digimoto.com/ Thanks! Any update on this?

The pressure plate was not replaced. However... I took it to my mechanic and he stated that the clutch was fine but the smell was the exhaust coming into the cabin with the top down (and sometimes up). His explanation was that there is a vacuum effect when you get on the throttle and you will smell some exhaust due to it being a "convertible mid-engined" car. Please verify if this is true. If not, as it is exhaust and not clutch related, what could be causing it?

Thank you. I love the car. Update here... Drove it 700 mi home and it drives fine with clutch but there are "2 catch points" or friction points. I have the initial engagement at about 1/4 way from the floor and then the actual "grab" portion about 3/4 from the floor. The problem I have is that I rev the engine expecting the grab early near the floor and then "pop" it thinking it is fully engaged when it is not. Thus the burning clutch smell :( Does the clutch wear in to where those 2 points become really close together? When I "shortshift" it and just push it about 1/4 in from top and get disengagement but not all the way to the floor, I still get the same smell like the clutch didn't fully disengage to begin with. Am I missing something or is something wrong with how I am clutching? (or is the clutch having issues and what do I tell the dealer as I have never dealt with a Porsche dealer before) This car was owned by a porsche dealer mechanic but I have never dealt with a dealership directly before. Plus I am now in a different state than the dealer it was "serviced" at. Thank you for the help thus far. Harryrcb is correct. No break-in period for clutch. When you said dealer replaced clutch, perhaps didn't replace throw out bearing. Are they reputable? I would take it back. How many miles? Depending on the miles there are a few other things to service while tranny is out. RMS, IMS (retrofit), AOS, oil filler hose(s), dip stick tube to name a few. Not necessary to change all but easier to examine and then replace as needed from below. Yes they are reputable. Posibly. I had them replace IMS (LN version), rear main seal and clutch disc. He said he was just putting a new one in as mine had probably 10k left in the old one (since the tranny was out for the IMS). Car has 165k on it now.

Thank you. I love the car. Update here... Drove it 700 mi home and it drives fine with clutch but there are "2 catch points" or friction points. I have the initial engagement at about 1/4 way from the floor and then the actual "grab" portion about 3/4 from the floor. The problem I have is that I rev the engine expecting the grab early near the floor and then "pop" it thinking it is fully engaged when it is not. Thus the burning clutch smell :( Does the clutch wear in to where those 2 points become really close together? When I "shortshift" it and just push it about 1/4 in from top and get disengagement but not all the way to the floor, I still get the same smell like the clutch didn't fully disengage to begin with. Am I missing something or is something wrong with how I am clutching? (or is the clutch having issues and what do I tell the dealer as I have never dealt with a Porsche dealer before) This car was owned by a porsche dealer mechanic but I have never dealt with a dealership directly before. Plus I am now in a different state than the dealer it was "serviced" at. Thank you for the help thus far.

Hey everyone. I just purchased a 2001 boxster s today. I had the dealer install a new clutch yesterday before I picke it up. Is there a break in period for the stock clutch? Also when I get it over 3500 to 4000 quickly like zero to about 40 it starts smelling like something is burning when I quickly shift into second. Am I "glazing or burning" the new clutch and could it be ruining it? I am new to Porsche and the closest I have to it is a Mazda Miata.