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jaekormtb

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Everything posted by jaekormtb

  1. jaekormtb
    I use the same products on my head and taillights as I use on my back window: Plastix polish a couple of times a year and a good wipe down after washing with Plexus. All lenses are perfectly clear and I've got 94,xxx miles on the car.
  2. jaekormtb
    Search this over on ppbb.com. Someone over there found a motorcycle resonator (maybe HD??) that they fixed into the tips that they said worked wonders.
  3. jaekormtb
    I've added an EVO intake and modified my stock muffler to be a step or so louder, and it's been a great mod. On the highway, the engine sound is present, but not overwhelming. My wife and I have taken plenty of 3-8 hr trips and it's complementary without being invasive. When I open the car up at an Auto-X or such, the car stands out from the stockers, sounding more like a GT3. Have fun with it!
  4. jaekormtb
    This weekend was the Richmond (VA) Porsche Meet, which included a "spirited" tour on Saturday and an auto-X on Sunday. I'll add that it's about 60 miles each way from home. After all the miles and many trips to the rev limiter, the car is still running better than it ever has, and no CEL. Yes, the car has an old style EVO intake. As well, I've modified the stock muffler for a more direct exhaust flow and I've opened up the second set of cats (great sound, no resonance!) Seems like the new MAF and the reflash are working great. Knock on wood!
  5. jaekormtb
    Have a look at your oil filler tube. Is there an oil accumulation on/around it, particularly underneath? How about an oil buildup on components below it? The oil filler tubes are prone to cracking (Porsche issued a TSB for this), which will cause a vacuum leak and set off various MAF codes. It will also cause the car's idle to surge at times.
  6. jaekormtb
    I replaced my MAF after a failure and I just wanted to share my experience. The car is a 2000 986 S, manual trans. The MAF failed right around 90,000 miles. I bought the car at 60K and immediately installed a K&N filter. At 80K I installed an EVO intake. No worries until 90K, when I got a CEL (typical MAF codes). The car lost power, particularly in the mid range. Cold also was also accompanied by a few backfires. I disconnected the MAF and the car ran better. The original MAF was part number 996 606 124 00. A TSB has been issued on this part, updating it to PN 986 606 125 01, which I installed. The TSB says that the DME must be updated to use the new part. I took the car to an indie who charged me $136 to do it. However, during the update (using a PST2), the DME programming code came up as 000000. I'm not sure if my DME was update or not, but the car runs better than it ever has. I wish that I had tried hooking up the new MAF beforehand to confirm that the DME was reprogrammed (and that my $136 was well spent). I will update this post if there is a change for the worse. Hope the info helps someone! I've definitely had my fair share of help and savings from this board. Cheers Jeffrey
  7. jaekormtb
    It's time to replace the MAF on my car, and I'm trying to decide which way to go. The car is a 2000 986S with 90,000 miles. The MAF that's gone bad is PN 996 606 124 00. I've seen that there is a TSB on this part, updating to PN 986 606 125 01, but this requires that the computer also be updated. The original part went 90k, the last 30 of which had an EVO intake. The original is available for around $300. The dealer :angry: has quoted me around $300 to update the ECU, then it would be another $300 for the updated MAF. I'd appreciate hearing other's experiences with either option, or simply opinions that might help me make an informed decision. Cheers
  8. jaekormtb
    I keep getting a CEL when I run the AC in my car (2000 986S).The codes are 1133 and 1125. I've pulled my MAF and cleaned it, but I'm thinking that it's at the end of its natural life. The car has 90,000 miles, and the part number is consistent with the original MY2000 part. Along with the CEL's, There is now a stumble under WOT between 3000 and 4000 RPM. Sound like a correct diagnosis? Any suggestions for places with the best prices on a new MAF? Cheers!
  9. jaekormtb
    You mean you drilled in through the inlet pipes to the muffler? What did you use, a hole saw? How far in there do you have to get to be able to cut the baffle? Have a look around on this board or others for photos of a Boxster muffler cut open. The two inlet pipes are actually the same pipe. As gases enter, they are forced against each other, and they push themselves into two intermediate chambers. From there, the gases move to the opposite outter most parts of the muffler, and then circulate to a central chamber before exiting. By opening holes about three inches from the edges of the entry pipes (two inches into the muffler itself), gases will bypass the intermediate chambers and go directly into the nearest outter chambers, then into the central chamber, then out. I used a Dremel tool with a flex extension and a cutting wheel to cut slits in the entry pipe. From there, I used a chisel and a pry bar to open the holes. The pry bar allowed me to create fins within the pipes, directing flow to the outter chambers. Looking into the pipes when the exhaust is apart, it's not the prettiest work I've ever done, but it's internal and man, does it work! The picture is what the stock muffler does...I hope my description is clear enough to show the differences. I think I understand. So you opened holes on each side of each of the inlet pipes, inside the muffler. I may have to try this! Thanks for the information. John V Exactly!
  10. jaekormtb
    You mean you drilled in through the inlet pipes to the muffler? What did you use, a hole saw? How far in there do you have to get to be able to cut the baffle? Have a look around on this board or others for photos of a Boxster muffler cut open. The two inlet pipes are actually the same pipe. As gases enter, they are forced against each other, and they push themselves into two intermediate chambers. From there, the gases move to the opposite outter most parts of the muffler, and then circulate to a central chamber before exiting. By opening holes about three inches from the edges of the entry pipes (two inches into the muffler itself), gases will bypass the intermediate chambers and go directly into the nearest outter chambers, then into the central chamber, then out. I used a Dremel tool with a flex extension and a cutting wheel to cut slits in the entry pipe. From there, I used a chisel and a pry bar to open the holes. The pry bar allowed me to create fins within the pipes, directing flow to the outter chambers. Looking into the pipes when the exhaust is apart, it's not the prettiest work I've ever done, but it's internal and man, does it work! The picture is what the stock muffler does...I hope my description is clear enough to show the differences.
  11. jaekormtb
    I modified my original exhaust by going into the entry pipes on each side of the muffler and cutting two 1" holes on each side. This effectively vents the exhaust into the outside chambers, bypassing the first chambers in the muffler. The sound is great. No resonance at all, a mild exhaust sound at all RPM's, and a definite rumble when I've got my foot in it. I'll add that I drilled three 3/4" holes through all of the elements in each of the second set of catalytic converters, opening them up quite a bit. That helped the sound as well! (and the power)
  12. jaekormtb
    Yea...that would definately suck. As in torch heat them, or heat the engine up ? Hit them with a torch and get them red hot. The steel bolts react with the aluminum heads and this sort of chemical welding takes place. High heat helps to break this up. I would do it on a cold motor...a hot motor is no fun working near.
  13. jaekormtb
    Don't forget to heat those bolts up before trying to loosen them! If you don't, at least one or two is sure to break off at the head. :(
  14. jaekormtb
    Try looking on that auction site. I had the same problem and found that exact tire with similar wear to my "good" one for less that $50. After changing the tire, I flipped the tires side to side every 3000 miles or so and they wore prett evenly.
  15. jaekormtb
    I know that the 911 3.4 will go into a Boxster. How about a GT3 or GT3 Cup motor? Of course, the intake and exhaust would have to be cutom work.Another thought: from what I've read, the GT3 heads have been worked to flow very efficiently. What about GT3 heads on a 3.2 block? Has anybody looked into getting 3.2 heads ported and polished? Maybe an Extrudehone job?
  16. jaekormtb
    I'm getting ready to replace the cv joint boots, but I don't have a socket big enough for the axle nut. Could anyone please tell me what size it is. Thanks! 2000 986S 6sp, US model, 63,000mi
  17. jaekormtb
    I just did exactly this: rotors, pads, and sensors from e-bay. The rotors are drilled/slotted Zimmermans and look great. The pads are Mintex and went in fine, except that the fronts had no holes for the sensors. After examining the old pads, I chose not to replace the sensors. My brake wear light came on, but the pads have between 15-20% of their material remaining. I could have easily put another 3,000 miles of street driving on them. I check my pads often enough that I feel secure not relying on this technology. I got a Motive power bleeder and did a full fluid flush while I was at it. This was the first time I had done my car's brakes and it took a little over 4 hours including a test drive and garage clean-up. All in, it cost less than $550. I don't know what the dealer would charge, but I'd bet it's waaaay over what I paid. For what it's worth, the next day (yesterday) I got rear-ended while sitting at a stoplight totalling the bumper and right rear quarter, so I can't tell you how well they work once broken in, but the car was braking better then it had before. Sure hope I get her back soon [1999 986 2.5]
  18. jaekormtb
    On my last two oil changes I've found gold (looks like brass, copper, or gold aluminum) flakes in the oil filter. The car is a 99 Boxster, 2.5 engine, with 80,000 miles. I've had a few of the "normal" troubles: cracked coolant tank, secondary air pump cel's, failed oil separator, MAF cel's. Any thoughts on what's in store for me?? For what it's worth, the car is running strong and feels fine.
  19. jaekormtb
    Get a propane torch and heat up the bolts before you try to loosen them. Don't worry about heating them up too much...you can't! This should help get them all out. If one does break, drill into it, reheat, and use an "easyout" to get it out. Too much fun!
  20. jaekormtb
    when I did mine I pulled that hose through the firewall into the trunk. There I was able to push the spring clamp bands downwards so that I could open it up from underneath with a pair of needlenose vicegrips. I don't know how many times I had to go from the top of the car to underneath to get that thing loose.
  21. jaekormtb
    Yeah, it is a lot of fun, just like getting dental work is fun. My tank had three big cracks in it and tons of small, emerging ones. Anyway, here's my helpful 2 cents: Prestone Extended Life antifreeze/coolant is compatible with our Porsche coolant. A gallon or so mixed 50/50 with distilled water will top everything off.
  22. jaekormtb
    I did the repair myself and it wasn't too bad. The most difficult part was getting the clamp open on the bellows. I pinched it with a pair of locking vice grips that worked so that after it was open I could move my hand around and get a better grip to pull it off. I believe I even got the thing open while working from the bottom of the car and then had to move to the top to pull it off. I did not replace the same clamp. Instead, I switched it out for a screw-type clamp which made going back on MUCH easier. As well, I used the bolts securing the unit to the block to pull it togethermost of the way: it did not simply snap into place.
  23. jaekormtb
    PB Blaster sounds like the info I was looking for. I've got a set of EZ outs and I've used them before. Looks like I'll be using at least one of them again. Just in case, I was wondering how much metal there is in the head. Is there enough to bore/retap and use a larger bolt? Most of the work I've done has been on Chevy heads- on those there are a few spots that come close to water jacketsand shouldn't be drilled but so much. By the way, the bolt that broke is center front outside on the left cylinder head.
  24. jaekormtb
    I was installing headers on my 1999 986 and managed to have a manifold bolt head break off. UGH! Anybody have experience drilling these things out...or any other suggestions for getting the end of it out? Just for info, I aborted the header project when the bolt broke and simply checked the torque on the rest of the manifold bolts and put everything back together. No exhaust leaks so far...
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