clarksongli

Check the ground to the frame

the clicking sound i'd guess is a CV joint. Is it a metallic clicking?

When "WE" say driveshaft, we mostly mean the shaft from the transfer case to either the front or rear diff, NOT the stub axles connected to the wheels, so just be clear which one you mean. If it were the driveshaft from the transfer case to the front diff, you would have issues all the time, not just turning.

I've never heard of control arm bushings causing clicking noises.

For the humming, wheel bearings can cause this, but usually occurs at specific speeds where it resonates in the cabin. Another common problem is the pinion bearing in the front diff starts to go. Common problem with Cayenne's and not a whole lot you can do about it. Once it starts to go, the lash on the ring gears loosens up and starts to create a humming type noise. Most will agree, you just let it ride out, since the cost to repair is so high. I've been driving on a noisy pinion gear for 3 years now, without failure. but it is noisy at highway speeds.

Now for regular maintenance, see the intervals here on the site. PERSONALLY, i changed all the fluids (diff/transmission/transfer case/engine).

hmm definitely sounds like a mechnical lock cylinder issue, or key issue. It isn't any electronic issue (the key turns just as easy when no fob is detected)

take a look at the plastic key, after turning hard, are there any marks or scrapes on the key itself? Perhaps it's hitting against a stuck tumbler or something?

There are....probably the easiest place to access would be driver side....pull down the knee plate and go through where the pedal cluster is roughly (there are a LOT of other wires in there).

But can i ask why you need to go through the firewall? The battery and switched power is all inside the car (battery is under the seat), fuse boxes are in the dash.....

never go to a porsche dealer haha....over priced and not helpful. Sunset parts in oregon will sell at invoice +15% or something like that....and it's a porsche dealership, so they can get you whatever you need, and lookup the part # if you don't know it.

I bought my coolant pipe stuff through a family friend who happens to have a porsche dealership, and got all the pipe stuff + a few other things for 500 bucks, so 599 for ECS isn't a terrible price.

ECS is a good company, i think they overprice some stuff, but overall helpful and reasonable to deal with.

For brand coolant pump, you will be good with any of the standard brands, chances are they are the same, and multiple suppliers are probably OE suppliers to Porsche.

As for the turbo coolant T's, there aren't any OEM metal replacements for the T's unfortunately. However i know many people that have 100k+ on the OEM T's without issue. The benefit for these T's are they don't sit in the valley of the motor, so they aren't exposed to the heat that the main pipes are.

Another thing you might want to think about while in there would be the starter as well.....especially if coolant soaked the starter.

Enjoy the CTT, i have the same year, and use it for everything from towing and pulling stumps and offroad driving, to just daily driving. I've never got it stuck, even in 40" of snow......Diff locks work well.

Centric makes them....have you done a search?

PNs: 125.37048 and 125.37049 (left and right).

Thanks for the feedback. I don't disagree there must be some cleaning properties within any of these bottles. Perhaps its the atomization ports being cleaned not the actual carbon ash.

you can wipe the domes clean with just a rag, and there isn't really a performance gain with clean domes. Valves also become covered, however it's typically he undercut, not the seats.

I could see a better spray pattern clearing issues up.

Best of luck....But i hate to be the Debby Downer....i would be shocked to see a bottle of techtron fix your issues. Not starting first shot suggests a larger issue. Idle quality....possibly.

But a fundemental question.....adding any techtron type stuff.....if you do the math, its roughly 150:1 mix ratio.....doesn't that seem unlikely that such a small dilute solution could break down such a hard compound like carbon ash?

I have soaked used valves in everything from seafoam to techtron for DAYS......and not even a single bit of carbon dislodged.

Not saying it doesn't work, but i'd like to see some of the science behind the product

I've run the centrics for maybe 20k so far.....I do everything from pulling stumps, highway driving, daily commuting, and towing at roughly 8k lbs of equipment. The rotors have never failed, or warped in anyway.

Again, Rotor blanks are fairly generic these days, yoo don't see a foundry for each company these days, generally that is outsourced and a centric blank may be the same as a OE without the final processing (final hat cut or zinc plating).

a note on drilled/slotted rotors.....i ALWAYS stay away from them. If a rotor was cast with the holes, that's one thing, but most companies simply drill holes in a rotor blank.....without the structure behind the holes, the rotor become weaker. For daily driving, you would most likely be fine, but then why would you need drilled rotors??

My track car i have always run blanks....and will continue to do so. Pad material is a key factory in stopping.....And i have seen drilled rotors at the track crack in half.....my CTT will only ever see blanks.

cayenne rotors come NEW with not a lot of meat to begin with. Combine this with the weight of the car, as Loren said, it is not unusualy to have to do everything during pad changes.

That being said, in my opinion, there is plenty of meat to run low on the rotors. The risk you run is that the rotors will warp more easily the thinner you get, but if you are taking it easy and just trying to make it to the next pad change, you will be fine. my rotors were <35mm when they came off last year.

there ARE less expensive options. In some of my other posts and my DIY, i use Centric (makers of Stoptech and a few other names). Many rotor blanks get pulled from the same castings since these companies generally outsource the steel forming these days.

Look up Centric, they run 30ish a piece, so maybe 150 bucks for rotors from amazon (free shipping). Just make sure you cross reference the PNs since amazon doesn't always get that right. The feature you do lose is the zinc plated rotor hats.....but some paint will fix that pretty easily.

What about all the other options? Offroad package, 4 zone climatronic, heated wheel, entry and drive, backup camera, tow package, etc.

I have an 04 CTT. the only wish i had was the 4 zone climatronic...the car came with almost everything else. I do a lot of "utility" work with mine, so the 2 speed transfer case and locking diffs get used weekly.

just as an fyi....already you can tell that doesnt have every available option......no dash compass....small i know, but obviously he doesn't realize what "every option" actually entails. It also lacks the rear camera. It also doesn't look like it has the 4 zone climatronic....also his keys are in in the ignition and i can't see the handle buttons, so i don't think he has entry and drive either.

So i would go over that car with a fine tooth comb.....since i think this guy seems pretty dumb/shady (putting his number on ebay)......and clearly putting some sort of weird advertisement description instead of a real explanation (intercooling technology?).

WIth that said......<20k is a decent deal for a reasonable mileage CTT. I bought my CTT with a little over 50k for 20k....but no offroad package.

I would be careful with this one though.....doesn't seem like he quite realizes what's up, which would also worry me in terms of being able to take care of the car properly.

I tow regularly with mine, and it is a great car to tow with....very stable and with an added trailer brake controller.....even 7k trailers tow with very little effort

i would say yes it would be normal.

Most performance exhaust systems simply use a straight through perforated pipe, with fiberglass packed around the pipe. This is both the least restrictive and most effective way to deaden sound and improve performance.

HPS pads are good, and i have run them in the past on everything from track cars to the Cayenne, but i think there are better options out there. I run a set of stoptech pads now. Cheap, and they provide a very linear feel, which is what i'm used to with the track car. The initial bite won't be what the OEM pads were, but the modulation you get is good, and fade under even heavy repeated braking is almost not noticeable.

As for rotors, i stuck with Stoptechs as well (centric is the parent company). Rotor blanks are fairly "dime a dozen" these days. Most of the smaller non OEM companies simply buy rotor blanks from another foundry. R1 concepts MIGHT be the same as another, but who knows.

As for OEM vs. aftermarket, not on the Cayenne, but on my track car, i run cheapo advanced auto blanks with no issue. I have had a full season on a set before without any warping or cracking. my opinion, but stick with blanks, i haven't had a scenario on the street where i would need anything but blanks and a decent set of pads.

There are really only two major types when it comes to automotive sound reduction.....Back pressure, and absorption.

Back pressure (I would assume) is not preferrable because it also limits exhaust flow and power. And typically "baffles" and what not are not nearly as effective as absorption without proper frequency and pulse tuning.

That leaves absorption.....and the basic deal here is surface area....the longer the resonator the quieter it will be.

I run a Aero stealth muffler on my track car, completely straight through design, but puts sound levels back to near stock level. The downfall is they are long. Aero also makes resonator type bullets, which is i think what you were looking for. Maybe take a look at those and find a length that can be added into the existing deletes?

My only question is why spend the money on cat deletes and exhaust system if you didn't want added exhaust notes?

I have the same problem. I have replaced the micro switch and adjusted the latch and I still have the rear glass warning light coming on every time I push on the gas after a stop. What else could it be?

Please review my DIY fix for this. It relates to the adjustment of the strike. It is posted in the DIY section.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/309-adjusting-rear-glass-latch-eliminate-open-glass-warning/

The fix is fairly easy, and my guess is that over the years the seals and what not slightly deform, so it either puts too much outward pressure on the glass, or not enough, causing the switch/strike to bounce around.

anyone?

anyone?

Of those who switched to Toyota T-IV ATF for tranny fluid replacement, how many miles have you driven since, and have you experienced any issues or warnings (anything of note)?Would be greatly beneficial to others who have been monitoring this. Thanks.

Sorry Ciaka, i'm on and off these forums.

I'd think i have roughly 30k on the fluid i think? Still running strong as ever....i just pulled several 30" inch stumps, and delivered a mini excavator for a friend. I certainly put my CTT through it's paces, which is why i bought it in the first place.

Shifting is not any different, cold and warm shifting seem to be the same. my plan is to flush it one more time since draining/filling doesn't remove all the fluid at once.

i believe the front O2s are 0-5V WIDEBAND.....the rears are generally there to sense cat efficiency, and are 0-1V range.

Will be difficult, i think there is no EGR valve in your V8 engine.

Found the bill. Described by my Porsche specialist shop as the EGR valve it is valve on the opposite end of the hose from the Secondary Air Pump and described in PET only as Valve.

EGR and SAI are two separate items.

EGR uses only gas pressure from the exhaust stream to recirculate back to the intake tract....dilutes the intake charge and improves emissions performance, specifically oxides of nitrogen.

SAI uses a pump to drive fresh air into the exhaust stream, especially during cold starts, to help reduce emissions by allowing excess fuel to be burned in the cat.

These would NOT be connected together as mentioned.....

i like how no one actually answered the original question haha.

for clarification, i think the poster was looking to understand the mechanics around the system, not if it works well in sand.

PSM controls both brakes and engine power. So with wheel slippage PSM is able to both reduce output power as well as brake individual wheels depending on individual wheels speeds.

The newere cayennes also have additional features related more around road safety than offroad ability.

porsche spec is 30% on the same axle, so you're fine.

Good info on the RHD thing....I am a small guy, so it was cake for me to get in there and pull the KESSY down, but i can see this being more difficult for larger people.

i agree with JFP:

1. Synthetics as mentioned are a good comparison to dino's.....although if you aren't careful, many synthetics are using dino bases.

2. Synthetics have much better lubrication properties when comparing similar viscosity oil.

With that said, i change my SYNTHETIC M1 oil every 5-7k miles.....oil is cheap insurance compared to the price of a Cayenne. IMO, although oils have come a long way, contaminants remain an issue, so fresh oil is never a bad thing.

As for gas....our cars do have knock control for sub par gas.....but again, why bother? We bought Cayenne's, not an bronco....Even with knock control, i would still be concerned with possible knock and premature issues related to that.

Bottom line.....Good fluids, frequent changes, rated fuels

Durametric cannot be used for adding or coding additional features. This includes things like backup camera, tow package, compass, and TPS....

Believe me i want it to, when i have done added features, i have to go to a local shop for them to program the features in. And atleast where i live, i have to physically do it for them because the local techs have no clue on how to use the PIWIS

exhaust first....my personal thought is that freeing up existing HP does not affect long term reliability. A ECU tune would.....increased boost, shorten life span on the turbos and possible internals to the engine.

Secondly, relatively speaking....the HP gains per dollar are better than the ECU initially....you can pickup a lot of free power with the secondary cat deletes for a few hundred bucks......or gain a good amount but spend a few thousand on the ecu.

i would do exhaust stuff first.....then if you still need more power for your daily, go for an ECU....diverter valves will be something that may be needed for higher boost levels, but overall won't change the power of the engine.