Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by clarksongli

  1. Heh this a random question but the rear subframe frame bolt on the passenger side? Does it exit into the cabin under the carpet? My bolt is broken side so if I can get to the back side I can just install a nut. Long shot but hopefully someone has taken the carpet up before. Thanks
  2. There is a battery under the drive seat, and some have the option of a secondary battery in the spare tire well. There isn't a battery just for the security system that I'm aware of (you disconnect the main battery and everything electrical dies)
  3. So you can run pure water with a corrosion inhibitor. this is very typical at the track and what I personally use in my track car. However the problem you describe doesn't sounds all that crazy.....how hot is it outside? Remember idle is probably the worst scenario, Zero airflow over the radiator, lowest speed on the water pump. Mine will climb past center and then drops when the fans kick on. My alternate method is to keep the A/C on.....which keeps the small fan running once about 180F......it then remains constant. I do have about 80k on my waterpump though.
  4. What I did was used a little razor blade and scraped the exposed pin surface of all contamination (you'll be surprised the thickness of corrosion on the pin). Once you work it back and forth a little the pin will eventually start to move. I tried the hammer method but it made it worse as it just forced more of the corrosion into the already tight fitting hole.
  5. So the first thing. Typically the display that says the rear hatch is open is generally for the GLASS portion......this is a known problem where the microswitch. Typically people either unplug the switch, or adjust the striker on the glass portion. Now to your problem. I'd plug everything back in, take it for a quick spin, turn the car off and lock it. THEN unlock it like normal and try the handle. If nothing, then crawl in and see if you can actuate it by pushing right. I've had situations where things "lock out." a good example is unlocking just the truck prevents me from
  6. is this the one that Tees into 2 metal lines behind the manifold? If so that connects to a vent line to each turbo. You're fine running it as it isn't safety critical. But definitely get it fixed sooner rather than later.
  7. Agreed with JFP in that I'm always a little concerned with generic scanners. they give really vague and usually wrong info haha. But anyways, my guess is either your seats have not received the "airbag resistance" fix, or they have and the connections are a little loose. The airbag reset is stored in the NVM so simply removing power will not reset the light. You will need a durametric for that. Underneath each front seat you should see the following. I could see mine from the rear with a mirror. if you have only the connector and no splice then you need to get that
  8. Just as a quick note of reference. I had trouble with my module until we realized it was programmed for a European model. Re programmed the module to a US version and everything worked. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
  9. That is typical. If you think about how the joints are held together....you are essentially pinching one tube over another. There will not be a perfect seal. The exhaust cement above or high temp rtv can fix that if it really bothers you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
  10. Welcome. I have an '04 turbo.....I have the same unit in my car. Sadly you don't have the newer PCM. Is the nav not working at all? personally I played with the idea so I could get the same luxuries.....ultimately I decided not to. But my navigation is working. my thought is leave it alone until it breaks. It's an older car, but very advanced for the year it was built. The aftermarket options you have, while offer more features, I feel detract from the unified functionality of the dash and it will be obvious you have shoved an aftermarket unit into a Porsche.
  11. Really just guesses at this point without any scans.....have you pulled any of the coil packs and plugs? Drive the car like normal for a while, then come home and pulls plugs and coils.....you can tell a lot about the engine based on the plug color and condition. Inspect the packs and see if you have cracks in them. I don't recommend just arbitrarily replacing coils like Lewiswelller.....you could spend 400 bucks and still not know what the problem is, but as I mentioned, there is an easy was to diagnosis a whole host of issues with just the plugs.
  12. So they do sell exhaust cements and RTVs. It is normal for small leaks to be at each joint (you will see signs of condensation dripping), but you shouldn't have any large leaks (holes). If you are concerned with various small leaks at the butt joint clamps you can use the cements or RTVs.....if you have holes or the leak is at the flanges, you should replace the damaged section or gasket. Here is an example of the cement you can find online: https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-35958-Hardware-Muffler-Cement/dp/B000CQHVLI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219439&sr=8-5&
  13. Just FYI.....LT71141 is a ATF specification. Long story short....the Transfer case takes ATF. I've been using type 4 for my ATF for many years now in both the transfer case and transmission. That and in addition to the blackstone reports between the two fluids I feel more than comfortable. Recommended oils is always a personal subject. pick a fluid that you are comfortable with.....if it's going to keep you up at night or worrying while driving long distances, just get the OEM stuff for piece of mind.....But I sleep very well at night haha.
  14. Do both the outer seal valve cover seal and the spark plug hole seal at the same time. you'll be surprised at how stiff the old seals are compared to the new ones. On a side note, I like the design of the seal itself. recessed into the covers, and "stand on edge" which allows for great compression.....much better than a cheesy flat cork gasket.
  15. Is this a CS or CTT? If it's a CTT you got the wrong plugs. But anywho: 1. Yes replace all coils if they were cracked (mine went at 130k) 2. Type IV is what I always use. It's super cheap, and if you look up my blackstone lab test, it's nearly identical (if not identical) to the Porsche fluid....same bottle and all. I change mine probably more than most, but it keeps the transmission happy and I tow a lot. I've done the flush 3 times before 130k. Filter change only once though. 3. I sucked out the P/S fluid and put in CHF like you are thinking.....again no real reason, but figured
  16. Curious to know who's got the "world record" haha. I just crossed 130k on my 04 CTT. on my way to work one day and it starts stumbling. Instantly i'm thinking coil packs, but it clears up as i'm coming home. Pull the codes, see a misfire cyl 7. pull the pack, cracked. pulled all of them, 7 of the 8 were also cracked. Order 8 new ones. What's interesting is i had -02 revision packs, which i believe would have been original factory packs, or at least **** close. 130k is pretty good compared to some of the others i've heard about. What's also interesting is how quickly they
  17. i think you might have two separate issues that just happen to be happening at the same time. I had nearly the same issues.... So i had my coolant Tee's break so i had to drain a lot of the coolant to change. Well i refilled and vacuum bled but was driving around and i kept losing coolant with no sign of where it was going. At the same time i had a bit if a stumble and semi rough idle. Instantly i thought the same thing as you. Long story short. Even with the vacuum bleed, the system was still self bleeding, about 2 weeks after the coolant level stopped dropping. My stumbling
  18. Personally i'd find something else. 1st. Lifetime powertrain may sound like a no brainer, but in all reality you don't typically hear of transmissions/axles/differentials just exploding. There is a reason why companies offer lifetime powertrain.....because they can make money off of it. The real reason i'd steer clear is the upgraded turbo kit. You now know power was important to the owner. But look at the life of most CTTs. Many reach a "tired" point where you hear about scoring, etc. Now add bigger boost and turbos. Turbos never extend the life of a motor.... Also, most pe
  19. no heat means one of to things: 1. coolant electric pump isnt working (turn the heat on with the fan on the lowest notch and see if you hear the electric pump running) 2. you have a big air bubble which stopping circulation (bleed the system...typically a vacuum bleeder will get things moving)
  20. Just pop the belt off and you will instantly have your answer. Just a big adjustable wrench or socket and the bet will slip off.
  21. take the belt off and start the engine and hope you don't hear the noise. Step 2 will be to feel all the pulleys for play and smoothness. That noise honestly sounds like something internal/reciprocating though....
  22. Jeff I agree with you 100% Typical known brands are piece of mind. Bosch for starters, TRW and Moog for bushings, *** and Timken for bearings, etc. What I've actually started to do is use the ".DE" websites to cross reference PNs. A good example is the main cooling fan. If you look anywhere in the US, our front fan is unique to the Cayenne. However, go to the german website.....the fan shows up in VW/Audi/Porsche Ford, etc. A great resource for finding our parts for less money without sacrificing on the quality. Here is my one "EXCEPTION" You have remember, in today's world, man
  23. So one thing folks need to remember. The ride height control is based off of the upper control arm location. Not the air bag directly. An airbag replacement should not need a calibration. Where you get into trouble is if the bag exploded and damaged the sensor linkage arms. And as everyone has mentioned.....if you don't put it in service mode, the system will attempt to level the suspension and inflate the bags. They will add stress to the suspension, potentially causing issues.
  24. So the exhaust side you'll need (don't hold me to this, doing it off of memory) gasket between the manifold and turbo gasket between turbo and first cat downpipe gasket between the downpipe and the secondary cat You will need a bunch of long extensions and I used 2 swivel joints An O2 sensor socket will make it easier as well. The cold side of the turbo: I'd get a new o ring for the charge pipe because their cheap. The inlet pipe also has an o ring.....you can replace it if you want, but it really doesn't matter The oil feed and return both will need o rings Another tool th
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.