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Everything posted by clarksongli

  1. Heh this a random question but the rear subframe frame bolt on the passenger side? Does it exit into the cabin under the carpet? My bolt is broken side so if I can get to the back side I can just install a nut. Long shot but hopefully someone has taken the carpet up before. Thanks
  2. There is a battery under the drive seat, and some have the option of a secondary battery in the spare tire well. There isn't a battery just for the security system that I'm aware of (you disconnect the main battery and everything electrical dies)
  3. So you can run pure water with a corrosion inhibitor. this is very typical at the track and what I personally use in my track car. However the problem you describe doesn't sounds all that crazy.....how hot is it outside? Remember idle is probably the worst scenario, Zero airflow over the radiator, lowest speed on the water pump. Mine will climb past center and then drops when the fans kick on. My alternate method is to keep the A/C on.....which keeps the small fan running once about 180F......it then remains constant. I do have about 80k on my waterpump though. Just another data point, but I'm thinking you could just be experiencing normal operation at idle. Have you checked to see if your rad fans are even turning on?
  4. What I did was used a little razor blade and scraped the exposed pin surface of all contamination (you'll be surprised the thickness of corrosion on the pin). Once you work it back and forth a little the pin will eventually start to move. I tried the hammer method but it made it worse as it just forced more of the corrosion into the already tight fitting hole.
  5. So the first thing. Typically the display that says the rear hatch is open is generally for the GLASS portion......this is a known problem where the microswitch. Typically people either unplug the switch, or adjust the striker on the glass portion. Now to your problem. I'd plug everything back in, take it for a quick spin, turn the car off and lock it. THEN unlock it like normal and try the handle. If nothing, then crawl in and see if you can actuate it by pushing right. I've had situations where things "lock out." a good example is unlocking just the truck prevents me from unlocking any doors until I close the lid and then press the unlock for all doors.
  6. is this the one that Tees into 2 metal lines behind the manifold? If so that connects to a vent line to each turbo. You're fine running it as it isn't safety critical. But definitely get it fixed sooner rather than later.
  7. Agreed with JFP in that I'm always a little concerned with generic scanners. they give really vague and usually wrong info haha. But anyways, my guess is either your seats have not received the "airbag resistance" fix, or they have and the connections are a little loose. The airbag reset is stored in the NVM so simply removing power will not reset the light. You will need a durametric for that. Underneath each front seat you should see the following. I could see mine from the rear with a mirror. if you have only the connector and no splice then you need to get that recall done(dealer should do it for free). if you see the splice, then it means the connection isn't 100%. either solder them, or you can try recrimping them. Reset the airbag and see if it comes back http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads17/955_airbag_conn_zoom_free1271277240.jpg
  8. Just as a quick note of reference. I had trouble with my module until we realized it was programmed for a European model. Re programmed the module to a US version and everything worked. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
  9. That is typical. If you think about how the joints are held together....you are essentially pinching one tube over another. There will not be a perfect seal. The exhaust cement above or high temp rtv can fix that if it really bothers you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
  10. Welcome. I have an '04 turbo.....I have the same unit in my car. Sadly you don't have the newer PCM. Is the nav not working at all? personally I played with the idea so I could get the same luxuries.....ultimately I decided not to. But my navigation is working. my thought is leave it alone until it breaks. It's an older car, but very advanced for the year it was built. The aftermarket options you have, while offer more features, I feel detract from the unified functionality of the dash and it will be obvious you have shoved an aftermarket unit into a Porsche. When people ask where is the Bluetooth I simply reply my CTT is about the driving experience, not about talking on my phone or how many cup holders I have.
  11. Really just guesses at this point without any scans.....have you pulled any of the coil packs and plugs? Drive the car like normal for a while, then come home and pulls plugs and coils.....you can tell a lot about the engine based on the plug color and condition. Inspect the packs and see if you have cracks in them. I don't recommend just arbitrarily replacing coils like Lewiswelller.....you could spend 400 bucks and still not know what the problem is, but as I mentioned, there is an easy was to diagnosis a whole host of issues with just the plugs.
  12. So they do sell exhaust cements and RTVs. It is normal for small leaks to be at each joint (you will see signs of condensation dripping), but you shouldn't have any large leaks (holes). If you are concerned with various small leaks at the butt joint clamps you can use the cements or RTVs.....if you have holes or the leak is at the flanges, you should replace the damaged section or gasket. Here is an example of the cement you can find online: https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-35958-Hardware-Muffler-Cement/dp/B000CQHVLI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219439&sr=8-5&keywords=exhaust+sealant
  13. Just FYI.....LT71141 is a ATF specification. Long story short....the Transfer case takes ATF. I've been using type 4 for my ATF for many years now in both the transfer case and transmission. That and in addition to the blackstone reports between the two fluids I feel more than comfortable. Recommended oils is always a personal subject. pick a fluid that you are comfortable with.....if it's going to keep you up at night or worrying while driving long distances, just get the OEM stuff for piece of mind.....But I sleep very well at night haha.
  14. Do both the outer seal valve cover seal and the spark plug hole seal at the same time. you'll be surprised at how stiff the old seals are compared to the new ones. On a side note, I like the design of the seal itself. recessed into the covers, and "stand on edge" which allows for great compression.....much better than a cheesy flat cork gasket.
  15. Is this a CS or CTT? If it's a CTT you got the wrong plugs. But anywho: 1. Yes replace all coils if they were cracked (mine went at 130k) 2. Type IV is what I always use. It's super cheap, and if you look up my blackstone lab test, it's nearly identical (if not identical) to the Porsche fluid....same bottle and all. I change mine probably more than most, but it keeps the transmission happy and I tow a lot. I've done the flush 3 times before 130k. Filter change only once though. 3. I sucked out the P/S fluid and put in CHF like you are thinking.....again no real reason, but figured it was a good idea. I got a liter and that was more than enough for the reservoir. 4. I changed my fuel filter, but I wouldn't bother until your pump(s) go bad.....Sort of a pain, and in all reality US fuels are generally not contaminated. 5. Torque strut mount.....did mine as well.....helps with any low RPM vibrations 6. Didn't do my motor mounts. again they aren't bad so no real reason to replace them. it's not the easiest of jobs either..... What I didn't see mentioned...... water pump, unless recently done Coolant pipes and Tees(if a CTT) Coolant Reservoir.....still haven't done mine but I have the reservoir at home. they tend to bust at the seam Brake fluid.....I always fully flush my brakes.....we don't use Type 5 fluid.....so it tends to absorb moisture quickly.....always a good preventative measure Check your suspension bushings (lower control arms tend to get crunchy) If you got movement or torn bushing's it might be a good time to get another set. Mine are definitely worn and I can feel it under hard braking. Check to see if your valve cover gaskets are leaking?
  16. Curious to know who's got the "world record" haha. I just crossed 130k on my 04 CTT. on my way to work one day and it starts stumbling. Instantly i'm thinking coil packs, but it clears up as i'm coming home. Pull the codes, see a misfire cyl 7. pull the pack, cracked. pulled all of them, 7 of the 8 were also cracked. Order 8 new ones. What's interesting is i had -02 revision packs, which i believe would have been original factory packs, or at least **** close. 130k is pretty good compared to some of the others i've heard about. What's also interesting is how quickly they fail. i had just done plugs at 120k, and inspected all the packs.
  17. i think you might have two separate issues that just happen to be happening at the same time. I had nearly the same issues.... So i had my coolant Tee's break so i had to drain a lot of the coolant to change. Well i refilled and vacuum bled but was driving around and i kept losing coolant with no sign of where it was going. At the same time i had a bit if a stumble and semi rough idle. Instantly i thought the same thing as you. Long story short. Even with the vacuum bleed, the system was still self bleeding, about 2 weeks after the coolant level stopped dropping. My stumbling was actually coil packs. I had just checked them, but when i pulled a few to double check, they nearly all had split. A new set of coils and it idles/drives like normal again. Do the hydrocarbon test, but pull some coilpacks and inspect. you might be seeing the same thing i had.
  18. Personally i'd find something else. 1st. Lifetime powertrain may sound like a no brainer, but in all reality you don't typically hear of transmissions/axles/differentials just exploding. There is a reason why companies offer lifetime powertrain.....because they can make money off of it. The real reason i'd steer clear is the upgraded turbo kit. You now know power was important to the owner. But look at the life of most CTTs. Many reach a "tired" point where you hear about scoring, etc. Now add bigger boost and turbos. Turbos never extend the life of a motor.... Also, most people who go for big power kits like that.....LOVE to goose the throttle. You have no idea how this guy treated it, but you have a pretty good bet he didn't drive it like a 80 year old person. I'm thinking cold engine/cold start but hitting the throttle to get those big turbos spooling. Finally....you live in a cold climate. Cold starts is a much bigger concern IMO. If this person didn't take the time to warm up the car etc. your likelihood of the guy joy riding it cold is pretty good. You can never be 100% sure that a grandma didn't romp on a car, but you can almost always guarantee someone who spends the money on a turbo kit that they DO romp on it. my 2 cents.
  19. no heat means one of to things: 1. coolant electric pump isnt working (turn the heat on with the fan on the lowest notch and see if you hear the electric pump running) 2. you have a big air bubble which stopping circulation (bleed the system...typically a vacuum bleeder will get things moving)
  20. Just pop the belt off and you will instantly have your answer. Just a big adjustable wrench or socket and the bet will slip off.
  21. take the belt off and start the engine and hope you don't hear the noise. Step 2 will be to feel all the pulleys for play and smoothness. That noise honestly sounds like something internal/reciprocating though....
  22. Jeff I agree with you 100% Typical known brands are piece of mind. Bosch for starters, TRW and Moog for bushings, *** and Timken for bearings, etc. What I've actually started to do is use the ".DE" websites to cross reference PNs. A good example is the main cooling fan. If you look anywhere in the US, our front fan is unique to the Cayenne. However, go to the german website.....the fan shows up in VW/Audi/Porsche Ford, etc. A great resource for finding our parts for less money without sacrificing on the quality. Here is my one "EXCEPTION" You have remember, in today's world, many things, regardless of "name", come from China or around there. Manufacturing is cheap, and many companies move production, or portions of production to those areas. Some examples: Most high end swiss watch internals, inverters for welders, nearly all circuit board and semiconductors. A Car example: INA Hydraulic valve shims. their main production facility is in China, while still retaining there "german" brand. I personally use their lifters in my race motors, directly from China. No issues, even under race environments. Bottom line, the internet is a wonderful place to do some research and find out what works well for your budget and piece of mind.
  23. So one thing folks need to remember. The ride height control is based off of the upper control arm location. Not the air bag directly. An airbag replacement should not need a calibration. Where you get into trouble is if the bag exploded and damaged the sensor linkage arms. And as everyone has mentioned.....if you don't put it in service mode, the system will attempt to level the suspension and inflate the bags. They will add stress to the suspension, potentially causing issues.
  24. So the exhaust side you'll need (don't hold me to this, doing it off of memory) gasket between the manifold and turbo gasket between turbo and first cat downpipe gasket between the downpipe and the secondary cat You will need a bunch of long extensions and I used 2 swivel joints An O2 sensor socket will make it easier as well. The cold side of the turbo: I'd get a new o ring for the charge pipe because their cheap. The inlet pipe also has an o ring.....you can replace it if you want, but it really doesn't matter The oil feed and return both will need o rings Another tool that is a must is a set of those flexible clamp pliers. The turbo itself is really small, and wiggles out through the front. My guess is it could probably go out the back too. I'd plan on several days if this is your first time pulling anything big out of the cayenne. Everything is just really tight and you're knuckles and arms will be bleeding from all the crap you are hitting.
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