clarksongli

I'm going through the same thing...after several weeks of searching and studying I just put down a deposit on a 05 CTT. I found it in another state with all service documents/history including coolant pipes, coils replaced, rear hatch struts, among other things. I had an independent Porsche shop do a PPI on the truck which I HIGHLY recommend. I was able to find highly regarded independents in pretty much all the states/cities I found viable CTT's in by using this and other Porsche forums. My research has led me to believe that if you can find a nice one with services/regular issues taken care of you should be happy :)

Again, I highly recommend doing a PPI even if the car is local to you...getting a green light form a well known/respected independent really gave me the confidence to pull the trigger even though I haven't even seen the car in person!! I know I could still have issues but at least I did all I could to avoid the common problems.

Just as an fyi too....you can download the ppi online and do it yourself....you honestly wont check/see anything amazing but its a good place to start with any pre owned vehicle.

I did it with my ctt....only took me an hour or 2

To answer your question about the diff locks.....all three lights will be there.....but unless you have the offroad package.....there will be no rear diff lock.

I have a '04 CTT. Both the transfer low and front diff will "light" but i do not have the offroad package, so even though the switch goes back....it does not do anything.

They are just over 35lbs.

I'm not sure what you're going for.....but a large increase in rotational weight will be significant on acceleration.

The oil consumption issue is not oil leaking out of the motor. Although if you have a leak it would be good to fix that.

There are two main contributors to the oil consumptions:

1. Turbo motors......because they relay on a fluidized bearing for the wheel shaft.....naturally the sealing ability will break down over time. Considering the temperature cycling and speed of the turbine wheels.....it is expected to start seeing some oil movement with mileage. Generally, the majority of it will be burned off, and you may not notice....but obviously the older you get the worse it will be(eventually too much shaft play will force a turbo rebuild/replacement).

2. 4.8L V8s.........the main consumption in a motor is due to the rings and the sealing surface area. If we look at our motors, we have roughly 85" or ring area to seal. if you compare that to a Honda 4cylinder, they only have about 30". Now you can make a linear assumption of oil consumption, but because rings are not 100% sealing, especially over time.....you have more area to seal against combustion/oil.

With that being said, i generally burn about 2 quarts every 6-7k. Considering this motor is over 2.5X the size of most 4cylinders.....law of probability says we will generally burn more oil....which is perfectly normal.

Now if you burn a quart every day, there might be something bigger going on. Another point of leakage are the valve stem seals.....unless something mechanically went wrong with your valvetrain, there isn't generally a reason to assume a stem leak though.....only time i have seen an issue is a physical chunk of metal went through the valve or a bent valve which ovalized the guide and seal.

The last thing i will leave you with is the VAC system on the cayenne.....we pull vacuum on all of the oiling points to remove vapors and so forth.....the vacuum is pulled by the intake side(low pressure) of the driveside turbo. Over time, that oil vapor builds up and will create some standing oil in the piping.....again not enough to cause noted oil loss....but something to be aware of.

I'm sure everyone will chime in, but double check the whole Coolant pipe Pastic/Aluminum issue.

Secondly there are a lot of common small issues, which add up to big bucks (mainly because it has a Porsche emblem on it).

1. Cardan Shaft(drive shafts running to the front or rear diff (look for vibration on acceleration)

2. Front diffs sometimes (you will hear a fairly load humming at neutral loaded speeds)

3. Auto Tranny Solenoid (basically if it does erractically HARD downshifts)

4. Battery condition, i actually just had mine crap out on me, but when the battery starts to get older and holds a lower voltage when the car is off.....weird things happen.....i do all my own car work.....and i've never seen a car so sensitive to voltage.

i'm sure i can go on and on....i suggest searching too. Don't let the negative comments get you down too much.....when things run right, no one posts about an uneventful day of commuting.....but when some stupid comfort thing goes bad, you hear all about it....so it is a little one sided.

You will enjoy the power, handling, and all of the above.

Not having bluetooth, keyless/pushbutton start, or decent MPG does sucks a little....but you're driving a turbo cayenne because it's a 5500lb rocketship, not because you want to get good MPG....so keep those things in mind when buying ANY car.....the purpose of you buying a car should determine which features are most important.

ENJOY!

Offset is fine. They range from 50-60mm, depending on the size of the wheel.

Ill upload the viscosity stuff tonight....but it was very similar....ill see if I can do a mobil 1 but finding the lt41171 stuff by me is hard for some reason

So for everyone that has been discussing Porsche Cayenne ATF....AKA JW3309/LT41171.Porsche PN 000 043 205 28There has always been debate on Toyota Type IV being the same as the Cayenne ATF. So i sent in VIRGIN SAMPLES to blackstone to get the analysis on additives.The results are shown below:..........................................Cayenne ATF....................Toyota Type IVBoron.......................................73.........................................84Calcium...................................128.......................................105Phosphorous...........................292.......................................271Zinc...........................................6..........................................11SUS Viscosity @ 210F.............48.3......................................50.1cSt Viscosity @ 100C..............6.74......................................7.26FlashPoint in F........................410.......................................370Translation.....Both fluids are chemically the same as far as blackstone can see with their equipment. I attached the Porsche ATF slip for reference. VOAs cost $$, but well worth it if it saves cash down the road. I have some diff fluids coming as well for a VOA as well. The flash point requirement is >335F, which both exceed.So save yourself some $$ and buy the ATF from Toyota.

V8 or V8 Turbo....those are the only options in my mind.

V6 get's just as bad of gas mileage....

When i was looking to get my Cayenne i decided on a Turbo over the NA V8....same mileage but if i need the extra power i have plenty left. Also, when i was looking i made the decision that i'm buying a Porsche SUV.....if i wanted a slower SUV i wouldn't be looking at a porsche...

I have a road legal track car so i have no reason to go fast with the cayenne.....but if/when i want to go, i don't have to think if the V6 can move my 5500lb car down the road.

And with the price of Cayenne's dropping quickly, you might as well step up to the larger engines.

Anyone know what the 20L price is for the ATF? Or a good place to source it for cheaper.

Actually I think it has both friction disks and you can mechanically lock the front differential and the rear if you have that option.

Yeah i was looking at the parts drawings and it lists the Diff as an LSD or non LSD....so i took that as not "true locking"

Thanks everyone.

I do know there is a pinned thread at the top, but with no real answer to fluids vs. diff properties. The reason i ask about the differential internals is because friction material is much more likely to NOT be compatible than a standard locking differential.

I was hoping someone here....maybe Loren, would know if cayennes utilize traditional mechanical lockers, or if we are using the typical clutch type, which are found in almost all "locking diffs" now.

Hi, I've been lurking for a while with my 2004 CTT. I love the car and haven't really had many issues other than the normal coolant pipes.

I do all my own work, and this is my dail driver, so the work is much more simple than my other cars.

I have two, hopefully, basic questions:

1. the Diff "Locks"...are those viscous diffs or truely locking?

2. Because Burmah oil is hard to come by in the states, is there a fluid that is recommended other than the porsche part? i know redline has a gl5 rated fluid, but if there are clutchpacks in the lockers....i would hate to decrease the locking ability of the discs by using a full synthetic oil.

I've seen people using M1, Redline MT-90 all the way to 75w-90 GL5, AMSOIL...

My theory is if the lockers are truely mechanical, then i won't be as worried with a change in gear oil....but if they do rely on friction discs.....i'll stick with the OEM.

TIA

Here is the deal. The fans did kick in when the engine temperature reached around 200F(93C). So the coolant temperature sensor is not the problem. (The fans were switched off as soon as the temperature dropped below 200F)

But I did notice that the coolant temperature kept going up when the car was idling which doesn't sound normal considering the ambient temperature was only 70F.

I have an 04 CTT, same thing. Unfortunately it is a normal thing....an easy way to stop this from happening is leave the AC ON (set a lower temperature with the fan setting on low).

this keeps the AC fan running and keeps temp in the middle. I agree, it makes any normal person nervous to see that needle go past center.

I always wondered if they did this for emissions purpose....i know some other companies are doing this now, run the motor slightly hotter, which allows for more leg room in the timing adjustments.

as long as your temp goes back to normal during cruising i think you're fine.

grab a volt meter....turn the seat switch on and measure acros the two wires on the CAR SIDE.....if you have voltage, there is a break in the elements in the seat.....if you see no voltage, then you have a wiring issue on the car side.

The opposite can be done as well.....disconnect the seat harness, measure RESISTANCE across the heater elements, you should see something in the ohms.....but if you get no number, or a mOhm number, you have a break in the element somewhere.

i can tell you that there is something wrong with their fluid quoting.....

the front and rear diff only takes a liter MAX

Same with the transfer case....should only take a liter

the next question you should ask yourself is if they have the fluid amounts wrong....what else is wrong?

I'd say try to do it yourself....doesn't require many tools, and the pan temperature is very close to fluid temperature in most cases.

+2.....unfortunately owning these cars is sometimes difficult....but hopefully you had done the research to know what you were getting into.

when i bought my CTT, i knew the coolant pipes were original (plastic).....sure enough, the week i got the car registered, the main pipe let loose.

i do all my own work, so it wasn't an issue, and 500 bucks later in parts, i was back on the road......but i have quirky electrical things every once in a while....and while we paid for a porsche....cheap plastic things still bound to break.

if you got a deal on the car, try reselling it for a bit more to cover your issues.....if you bought it at a dealer or something, i'm afraid you will never see a payback trying to resell it.

i burn about 1 quart every 2500miles......i have a 2004 CTT. with 8 cylinders, it is expected that you will burn some oil.....the scraper rings are not 100% sealing. when you drive in vacuum (not accelerating) the condition become worse.....there is less combustion pressure forcing the rings out to seal on the walls.

as for the burning oil on full acceleration....at first i thought it was a bearing seal on one of the turbos, but when i discovered was that on the driver side intercooler (same side as the oil breather) fills with oil over time from the case vapors.....

once i emptied mine out, no more black smoke on acceleration.

The DWS's are very nice.....I have a set of Kuhmo STX's on right now.....NOT QUIET. BUT they wear well, great wet/dry traction....and run abotu 120 a piece.....

for the price i'd take the STX's over the DWS's, but if road noise is a big issue, obviously go with the Conti's.