clarksongli

Clark, does your fan(s) look like this?

 

That is the A/C fan, I'm talking about the large passenger side fan.  It also has a "box" attached to it.

Here is my original question, I've already taken the fan out of the car and plugged in 12v with no "signal" wire....the doesn't run....which tells me that the signal wire is commanding the fan to come on.

IMO this rules out the fan and module attached to it.  But maybe I'm wrong?

In my ORIGINL post, the 2 signal wires show 12v and ~.3V......I think it's the 12v that's triggering the fan to come on.

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess:

when i did my install i had a "E" module (2004 CTT).  However when i went to program it, it showed up as a module with the auto retracting hitch ball, which i'm pretty sure wasn't offered until the later years.  We had to reprogram it to a US car with non retracting ball hitch.  This module was brand new suncoast too.

The newer models, do you know if there are 3 plugs or 2?  my module had 3 plugs, but only 2 were used in the install.....i assume the third plug is there for another year?

FYI those modules NEW are <150 bucks....it might be worth just getting a new module.  Try suncoast, they are a porsche dealer that sells at cost for online orders.

 

 

 

does the fan have a relay? i'm pretty sure it doesn't. straight power from f10

Item #12:

Retails for just under $20.

Jeff are you sure that's not the starter relay? What's the pn on it?

 

 

# 141-951-253-B  $18.79 One of three (#8):

 

 

You may want to check that part number with a dealer, it has been superceeded more than once.

 

Where is this located?  the Water Box?  I have some relays in there but none of them are listed as anything to do with the fan???

Thanks for the help btw.

does the fan have a relay? i'm pretty sure it doesn't. straight power from f10

Item #12:

Retails for just under $20.

does the fan have a relay? i'm pretty sure it doesn't.  straight power from f10

So recently i got the P480 code.  Fan was running non stop on high.  When i turned the car off it kept running on high so i pulled the fuse and went to bed.  In the morning i threw in the fuse and the fan didn't run.....turned the car on (Cold) and after a few seconds went to high again.  Turned off the car and it ran on high for a while then shut off.

So i had to do a bunch of work anyways so i pulled the fan assembly, here are the steps i've done so far:

AC fan works fine, this is only the main fan.

If i power the fan without connecting to the car (the small wires arent receiving signal) the fan stays off (which i think is good).

If i measure the car harness side, it shows the standard 12v and 0v on the plug.  The signal wires show ~.3V and 12V

My guess was the 12v was the cause of the fan running.

To rule out the temp sensor i unplugged it, but the 12v signal was still there.  plugged the fan in anyways and it was still running.  I did notice when it was unplugged the car only shows as "normal" temp, it didn't peg to the top like i'd think it would.

Finally i found that F10 is the signal (Fan Final Stage)

Anyone have the wiring diagram or know where this 12v is coming from?  I'm 99% positive it does NOT come from the main coolant sensor.  And i'm also 99% my fan is working correctly, but i don't have the "before" voltage check to know for sure.

Any help would be appreciated.

THanks 

Mine does the same thing, makes this mildly annoying back and form motion which also has a slight squeak too it when the flap moves.

What stops mine from moving though is when I put it in the "recirculation" only mode.  The valve shuts and stays shut.

I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to constantly move, I just have no idea why mine does.  Since mine closes and stays closed when I command it to, I figured it has to be something else telling it to open and close all the time.

When you say it won't start, do you mean you turn the key and nothing happens (starter doesn't even make noise) or do you mean when you turn the key it turns over or makes noise, it just doesn't get the motor started?

Has anyone tried DB Electrical Starters?

They are 100 bucks from amazon for a NEW starter.  Sort of hard to pass up on 100 bucks since most places charge 70-90 bucks just for a core deposit.  I figure the worst case is i end up returning it as a core or something.

Curious to know though if anyone has run them before.  They seem to be big in aftermarket diesel applications.

2004 cayenne turbo.

The other question becomes can I reprogram the new module with durametric or do I need to go to the stealership?

Hi so I repaired my kessy about 10 times. Well finally it has burned up too badly for me to replace the resistors.

Can someone give me the correct part number? The last letters on my unit are mx.

I found this pn.... 955-618-036-05....not sure if that's the correct revision or model.

Anyone have a clue if I can reprogram myself with the durametric?

Thanks for the help!

The upper "dome" portion of the flange, is the part's Achilles Heel. High tank pressure(especially under high ambient temps) makes the top part of the dome split and crack. If you have no check engine lights but hear NO pressurized, "whoosh" sound when uncapping the tank to refuel.....expect to soon smell gas fumes, under the rear driver's wheel well. If left unchecked - the dome's condition worsens to the point where the flange will shoot raw fuel towards the bottom of the interior fuel tank port cap, dribbling fuel as you drive. 

 

You can cut the install time of the filter flange 45min, by simply replacing the top portion of the flange, leaving all the in-tank hoses intact. . 

So this isn't quite right.....gas tanks these days are held in slight vacuum, hence the evap solenoid.....since basically 96 when we swapped to OBD2.

What Zuffen is referring to is the pressure regulator (passenger side) and the FPR (Driver Side) are both on the "pressure" side of the pumps......roughly 45 psig.  If these become damaged or brittle, they will spray fuel.  Since our cars run a fuel return, the pumps are "dump" and will continue to run to maintain the pressure required.....which in turn will just spill gas out the top of the tank ports.

Honestly, when I replaced my pumps, all I did was clean the surfaces really well and reinstalled the gasket.  The gasket is a rubber compression gasket, so as long as there are no cracks and the surfaces are clean, there is no reason to replace the gasket.  We aren't talking about an o ring or crush gasket where you have a finite amount of compression on the sealing surface......you simply reinstall the locking ring, which allows you to find tune the compression on the gasket by tightening it further.  Careful, you CAN crack the plastic if you go too tight.

Just my 2 cents.

OK, so I bought the car and within the 5 weeks of ownership, had so many issues, enough was enough. The last straw was the prop shaft bearing failing. The car had only done 50,000 miles!!

Anyway, cut my losses and sold it - the 5 weeks of owning a 10 year old Cayenne lost me about £3250. I will never buy an old Porsche again. Next time (if ever), it'll be new!!

Thanks for all of the help from people on here over the last few weeks. A great forum with great, knowledgable members! Just wish I had come across it BEFORE I bought the 10 year old 'tractor'.

Secondly buying a new porsche? How does that resolve your issue? Sounds like you have good problem solving abilities.....

Cars in general have life limited parts....the faster and more luxurious they are the more life limited parts they seem to have. With a cayenne you get both.

Owning a car like a cayenne is a hobby. If you can't handle that then go get a camry.

Fronts will be fine....but the rears i'm just guessing....won't fit without spacers.

i've seen 10" with a +57 offset fit before, but you're essentially looking to add another 10mm to the inside of the wheel.

I say buy them and then figure out the rears with spacers.

So my guess is the previous owner installed an aux/USB setup.  Many of these systems means removing the changer from the fiber optic network and replacing it with this.

See if you put it on CD changer, if that little box activates and or does something.

So when i bought my CTT back in 2010....it was listed as a Cayenne only.

Got there and it was an executive assistant selling it for her boss......she never realized that there were many different trim options.....long story short......20k later, i owned a CTT that had very low mileage for a 2004.

That being said....definitely do your homework.....i had the VIN run at a dealership + carfax before i even went to see the car.  I brought the CPO list wth me and did an inspection in the parking lot.  The lady thought i was crazy.

All in all, there are great deals out there, you just need to do as much up front homework as possible.  Honestly, i think this guy truely believes he has a turbo engine haha.....he even makes reference to the fact that it is a titanium model color.....he probably just has no clue.

Also.....WAY to much for that car.

Hey so i live in CT, and frequent Maine and VT quite a bit as well.  I bought 04 CTT with i think 40 or 50k on it?  i have almost 120k on it now.  Things i have done:

coolant pipes

water pump

tstat

belts

drive shaft

brakes

plugs

filters

fuel pump

battery

The blower motor will start making noise before it goes....so you'll hear it most likely.  I have what i believe to be the original coils as well.

Honestly i think coils get replaced way more often than they actually fail.....i have several race engines and the CTT, all use very similar coil on plug setups.....while i do carry a few spares, i don't blindly replace all of them just for fun.  just my 2 cents.

I think a big thing to get miles out of the car.....fluid changes.....don't wait for the 20k point, and don't believe "lifetime" fluid claims.  I've been following my changes with oil analysis work as well....for my driving i tend to have very good wear signs around the 5-7k mark....the oil shows plenty of additives left, and very low PPM levels for lead/iron/Al.  my car burns nearly no oil over the oil change span, suggesting the ring seal is still pretty good....lots of oil changes? Maybe it helped....i don't know.

I also change the tranny fluid every 50k or so.  I think this is honestly why my valve body is still running well.....the first few changes there was an incredible amount of lead in the fluid.....the best guess of the lab was Porsche had used some sort of marking compound, or anti-gall during assembly.  After the first change the second was much cleaner.

So really my suggestion....frequent fluid changes + normal maintainence....

Some other things that i see go bad often:

1.  starters

2.  front diff (they get noisy, but i've never actually seen one fail completely)

3.  T Case actuator

4.  Kessy module

5.  vacuum hose to the brake booster

6.  Coolant reservoir

7.  tranny valve body ( as i mentioned)

FYI, i do a lot of heavy towing of construction equipment and tree/stump pulling since i live in the sticks.....my car sees everything from mild to wild.....owning these things is a hobby for sure.  Stay up with the maintenance and you'll be fine.

I think the other thing you need to weigh is whether you will be maintaining this car personally or will a shop be doing the work.

Two reasons:

1.  Maintaining any Porsche is a hobby in itself.  They seem to require "attention" is probably the best way to put it.  Most of the time it's not major, but weird things here and there.

2.  Because it has the Porsche name in front of it, people love to price gouge for everything.  If you end up doing work yourself, it's about on par with any other german/european car in terms of maintenance cost.  You bring it to someone, be prepared to shell out some cash as Pkscheldt mentioned above.

As for the oiling concern.....i do this all the time when getting ready to start my track motors after the winter......it's all about priming the motor.

For my race motors i have a mechanical primer that i can hook onto with a drill, but the principle is still the same.  i see lots of cars at the track that use the pressurized can method as i mentioned earlier.

agreed it sounds like either a pump or a coil.

Drive the car until it warms up/starts to run rough.

pull all 8 plugs and see if there are a few that look much different than the others.  If there are then you got some bad coils.

If they all look the same, my guess is the fuel pump.....you can jumper it and then listen to it unde the rear seat.....the sound is obvious when it's going bad.

2 years is a long time for any car to sit, let alone a Cayenne.

You will most likely get a million fault codes on start up....the electronics are super finicky in these cars, even when you drive them regularly.  a Battery is going to be a must most likely.

New oil is a good thought,coolant should be ok for a first start.

Brake fluid would be ok for a first start, but if you plan on moving it at all, bleeding fresh fluid through will be a smart thing.

Tires might be flat spotted.....or i should probably say WILL be flat spotted, making for a crappy ride at speed....but just fine to move the car around or onto a flatbed.

Here is my only concern......2 years the main/rod bearings a going to be BONE DRY......this is probably the easy point in time to spin a bearing.  My suggestion is to prime the pump somehow.....an option would be to use a pressure can and a filter adapter to pressurize fill the oil system.....it will only move probably 15psi of oil pressure, but more than enough to wet and float all of the bearings.

My question is how much is this car going to cost?  considering you can get CTTs for 20-30k all day long here in the US with real low mileage, i'd be worried about buying a car that has sat for 2+ years......now if it was $10k, that's another story.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

any chance you still have this image in higher quality?  i can't really read everything.  Thanks!

The errors are probably caused by low voltage after cranking so many times.

I bet it's the fuel pump.....driver side.

Flip up the rear seat and have someone listen to the pump when it primes....a good pump will make a consistent whine...a bad one will change pitch and sometimes make a grinding noise.

Did you notice the difference with the new ones? Mine are cracked too but I'm not convinced yet if replacing them will make any difference.

Rebuilds for this turbo are actually not terribly expensive....but it is unlikely that's the source of your oil.

Double check those part numbers....I don't think they are correct.....normally they start with 955 for cayennes