clarksongli

oh wow haha.  When i saw the title i thought it was going to be like Kuhmo or General Tire.  I haven't even heard of some of these brands haha.

So to answer your question....no the Yoko's won't be twice as good.

BUT these are some really unkown brands.....do some research, perhaps some might be made by a more well known brand?

There are plenty of good tires, similar to the one you found, that are well known, and have a lot of miles and feedback in the marketplace.  I'd personally stick with a tire manufacturer that i had experience with, but i would be interested in seeing some of these lesser known tires tested.

Oh and P.S. Before anyone drops the "Chinese tires suck" or something foolish like that.  Keep in mind many tire manaufacturers have plants in china and many other industrialized nations these days.  Most of these facilities in China are huge job shops, making many brands of many different things.

Case in point....i was visiting a supplier for business.  That quarter they were making swiss watch internals, hair dryers, and kurigs haha.  not saying they were any good, but my point is place of origin no longer an indication of quality.

is it constant or does it only do it sometimes.  The suspension is auto leveling so often times it'll make corrections to individual corner height.

So it's a little hard to tell from that photo but it looks like you might have gone a little easy during bedding, it looks like there is some areas of glazing.  It's sort of weird that you have uneven pad contact considering we have multiple piston calipers.  Anyways:

I'd go back out and really stick it to the pads......you will want to do many passes and get heat into them.  If the brakes aren't fading then you aren't getting heat into them.

By the end of my bedding, my pads are fading and generally there is a stink to the pads plus some smoke.  You should have a dullish finish all around.....and hopefully it will take care of that glazed zone you have.

I have finally managed to getsome additional diagnostics done.

When testing pressure in Cylinder 8 managed to get upto 50% from arounf 20% initially.

Further camera work displayed pitting, discolouring & scoring on Cylinder 8.

Andvice from the independent garage is that i should look for a new engine.

Does anybody have any experience of someone who can re-engineer such a problem (In the UK)?

I'm wondering now whether to look for a replacment engine or just to sell the car as is (which i am a little reluctant to do)

Have you verified the conditions of the valves?  Make sure you've ruled out all other options.

Assuming it is scoring you have very few options other than pulling the engine, unforutunately you aren't mechnically inclined but here are some options:

1.  Remove head and pan, pop the rod cap off and pull the piston/rod out.  Hone out all the damage (this will only work with minimum depth damage), gap and install new rings and reinstall.  Break in, change oil, and go to town.  I've had success with this in the past on light damage.  I've also been able to do this without engine removal.

2.  With heavy damage, you will need to recut the cylinder, the challenge will be seeing if Porsche had plus sized pistons/ring sets.  VW generally always had 3 plus sizes for rebuilding purposes.  Engine will definitely need to be out for this.

3.  Buy a used engine and have it swapped in.  The core value of your engine is something you will want to pay attention to.....the shop will probably tell you the core is worthless.....with is not generally true.

All in all, if you aren't doing any of this yourself, then my guess is the cost of the labor alone is going to make this painful and force you to think about just moving onto another car.  You put the P name with this and the cost goes through the roof.

my guess is the fact that you have 50% compression of the other cylinders means you can salvage this with a hone and a new ring set.

If that's a picture of the bedded rotor then you need to redo the bedding.  The challenge with slotted and drilled rotors is building heat into the rotor for a proper bedding....they are built to expel heat as quickly as possible.

The rotor clearly hasn't gone through a heat cycle and most likely has no/very spotty transfer layer.  If this is a pre-bed picture can you get us a picture of the rotor now?  You can tell a lot about the brake system by looking at the rotor.

agreed with dphil....

you can only get certains aspects of brakes, and generally not EVERYTHING.  Low dust often means low cold(initial) bite OR high temp sacrifice in terms of friction Coeff.

I run HPS pads on my track car.....definitely not grabby, but when you are on the track, my style is having a nice linear feeling pad.....especially when you don't have ABS to cover your arse.  The car is super light so i don't need a whole lot of pad either.

On the flip side, you can run a dusty noisy pad (performance friction comes to mind) and they will have extremely good brake capacity.....but who wants to be screech to a stop in traffic with everyone watching you.  

Everything is a trade off.

i think we have seen them go as collateral damage from coolant pipes.  Fluid drips down into the bell housing and toasts the seal.

unfortunately i don't know of an easy DIY check for this.   Take a look in the rear of the engine and verify the the valve cover or the head gaskets aren't leaking down the back of the engine.

Otherwise there isn't a whole lot that leaks on the rear of the engine.  Sorry.  Do you have access to a boroscope?

This may or may not work for you, i guess some it does and some it doesn't....I have a 2004 CTT and it works for me.

- With key in off position, depress the ODO button.
- Without brake pedal depressed, turn ignition on while still pushing the ODO button.
- You should see a message: "Service Reset".
- Push and hold the "enter" button located on the bottom of the wiper stalk.
- While cotinuing to push the "enter" button, turn off the ignition.

 

Good luck.

I know it's a little ghetto for a porsche forum but if you hit that hole with a soldering iron I bet you can seal it up.

Obviously don't do this in the fuel tank...

Yeah they have always been 16 mm to my knowledge. ...can you take a pic of the tool next to the bolt head? Is it visibly way off?

i always over inflate my tires on my track car so i don't flat spot a tire.

For fuel i completely drain the system, but you most likely don't have the capability.  Perhaps look for fuel that does not contain Ethanol

Battery maintainer or disconnect completely if you aren't need power.

You know you can reset the service indicator without any scan tool right?

Which cats? I'm assuming the front set and not the secondary ones?

10 hrs is probably standard....remember the front downpipe and cat is integral.....removal probably does take some effort.

Why are you replacing the cats?

I'm amazed as well. I can coast downhill with the wind and I doubt I could average 23 over any normal distance.

Ouch. There is a special tool...which is the same as the vag tool....or you can just weld some angle together and make your own.

Here is what I found. It's not the seal that typically goes bad....but the crap the may have gotten under the seal during assembly or over time....I cleaned the flange on the left tank hole during my pump replacement and reused the old gasket.....This is as compression gasket so as long as the surfaces are clean and not bent the gasket will still seal nicely. ...like with many other things....The preparation work makes all the difference.

360 is probably on the low end I would expect.

With that being said.....you can easily do your own in a few hours and save 360 bucks for something cooler.

As another point....I bought my 04 turbo in 2010 for 21k....It had 55k miles....all options except 4 zone climate and the off road package.

The caveat was I knew the plastic pipes were still there.

A suggestion....you can get the dealer inspection checklist online and simply spend the hour or so doing the checks yourself....which is what I did myself.

Do some more research. .. Stop tech is made by centric...centric rotors are much cheaper.

Hps pads are slightly aggressive. ... which is why you see some auto crossers use them. Aggressive generally means more noise and/or dust. ...I went with stop tech pads. ... less cold bite. ... but no dust

Only certain counties in California require smog testing.

My recommendation is to just keep the secondary cats around and swap them in as needed. My guess will be that the car will pass smog with the deletes though.

Either way do what you wish. .. I've provided chemical comparisons to the best of my knowledge. ...all far as I can see everyone else just provides their two cents.

Unless someone can prove differently. ...I see no reason not to use type 4.

JFP maybe you can provide a more detailed chemical review of the fluids? Personally I've worked with the folks at the Leipzig factory for aerospace manufacturing techniques and logistics....I can promise you they aren't assembling transmissions there or using proprietary fluids....

Like I said....I know that the viscosity's are the same....Both sus and cst. ...flash point is the same....and the chemical composition is the same....I'm not sure what else constitutes a confirmed test....so by that tr test your oil weight scenario would not stand to be true....

I agree to an extent....but the likelihood that two oils have nearly identical ppm levels of additives....With the same flash point etc. Gives me greater confidence. I've run type 4 for 50k+ miles now and nothing but good shifts hot or cold.

My thoughts are this is unlikely....but try unplugging the mafs and running it that way....With no mafs the csr will revert to a full rich map....If the problem is still there then you can rule out the mafs.

My main reason why I don't think it's the air intakes is because the pipe routing is not overly different.....If the route was shorted significantly then that would be cause for concern

Check the stickied post up top....I did a Blackstone analysis on porsche atf and Toyota type 4 ....chemically the same and much cheaper. ....

Take a look in the diy section...I did write ups on everything....

Bottom line... you have several thousand miles of easy Street driving before you start rubbing on the backing pad.... got should be fine....

For rotors unfortunately the wear limit is so small youtypically end up replacing the rotors every time. .. or every other I'd you have a soft pad