clarksongli

Every tire you listed has what i would consider short thread life.

with the weight of the car you are looking at a much higher wear limits. I currently have the Kuhmo STX tires....noisy, but good grip dry or wet. they are almost to the wear bars and i have about 30k on the tires.

I'd try to quantify the amount of miles you want from a tire first, then look for something that meets those.

stick with blanks....drilling and slotting without a properly cast rotor is dumb.....look at all the cracked rotor pics from track cars....i run blanks even on my track cars

pads unfortunately the dustier the more bite they are going to have.....i have stoptech and they dust less but also have less cold bite.....they perform roughly the same at temperature

Just changed the Diff fluid front and rear, Working on the transfer case. The Fill plug was Ridiculously tight!!! Had to use a 3ft breaker bar. I stripped the plug a little bit so i will need to get a replacement soon. Surprisingly the oil that came out was black. No were near as red as the ATF fluid. I thought they were the same. Could just be really dirty. Got a question. How bad is it to use the Old Valve body retaining bolts? Do they really need to be replaced?

Just fyi....The differentials do not take atf..... they take 75 90 or the Burma spec oil called out by porsche.....only the transfer case takes atf

first question.....no they don't sell the idividual hose barb drains.

Front drains go down to the firewall and then just dump into the sheet metal cavity between the passenger compartment and engine bay. The drain you can see with the wheel well off, is the exit of that cavity.

A semi easy way to get down there is use weed wacker string.....and just feed it it through the tube.....it takes some practice to get it all the way through, but push and turn a bunch of times and you'll get it through.

Welcome :) ... I wish you the best of luck with your Porsche..... you´ll have plenty of fun filled DIY hours with these cars ..... :)

Same and i agree. I'm a 100% DIY person, so there isn't nothing i don't do myself. with that said.....prepare to become an electronics specialist. Old Rovers don't compare to the craziness that Porsche decided to do in these cars.

And not to judge.....but a 1500 dollar job on a 2001 A6 vs. a 2004 CTT with 120k.....probably not a decision i would have made haha. unless that audi had 500k on the clock, i think you just traded a 1500 headache for an unknown, but certainly much higher $ headache haha.

i await your first fault code post!

I changed the 2 FETs on the weekend and all the door handles, and the rear bumper are working again. Now we will see for how long they will last.

Just remember, there is a reason the FETs keep blowing......one of the antenna's is drawing more power than expected. Basically there is a soft short somewhere. Start looking the antennas that are on the way out

Those are good numbers

did you measured the FETs? Was there any leakage? If any of your handles or interior key sensors work then your FETs AND resistors are good.

Hi

06 Cayenne TT

I can't seem to get the compressor to run when the tire filler hose is attached.

The voltages on the reed switches seem to switch properly. Air suspension works fine

but air pressure availability at the tire fill connection is intermittent.

any help?

my guess is it's the magnetic activation that isn't working. Does it say "tyre filling" on your dash? If it doesn't.....then try the following.

Check to see if the ring magnet is in the end of the hose. if it fell out then there is your issue.

In my case, the ring magnet was in there, but i guess lost some magnetism and wouldn't activate.....i took a small (.25" round) magnet, and stuck it to the end of the fill hose. This took some trial and error to get the magnet in the right spot to activate the valve.

see if that works.

same as above.....15-16ish standard highway with slight in town driving. My daily commute involves in town and traffic driving....i get around 13 if i drive like a grandma. As everyone else has said.....if you compare that to really any other america V8....you will get better mileage and SIGNIFICANT performance over basically everything with a select few SUVs.

With that said, there are plenty of good European and Asian V6 and some V8s that get good or better mileage....V6 TDIs are the first that come to mind.

I guess your decision is do you really want/need the blistering speed and power for the CTT or do you just need more space with good interior comfort.

it does not. Only the pipes themselves or damage and maintanence related to replace the pipes.

You could try and see if you can say the tee's were damaged due to the replacement of the pipes, but other than that, they are not included.

Resister PN is in the DIY.

But as a side note....the resistors will not fix the issue.....resistors blow when the gate starts to leak in the mosfets.

Could somebody please provide the part/mfg# for the fused resistors?

I've replaced the MOSFETS several times and the keyless entry/battery drain isuues go away for several weeks, but eventually return. So I would like to attempt to change the 6 resistors as well to see if that solves the problem.

Much appreciated!

You are welcome to try it, but it won't fix your issue.....the resistors are there to protect the board in an event the mosfet fails and starts to leak between the gate and drain of the transistor. If your antennae work then your resistors AND Mosfets are functional.

http://www.westfloridacomponents.com

1/4W 0.22 ohm Mini-Melf Resistor Beyschlag MMA0204-50AL0R22J

I would agree that warm fluids flow better than cold. The one difference, not sure if it matters, is that for diffs and transfer cases, the system is a bath system....no oil pump....there are some other cases (jeep has one) that there is a oil pick up and pump, but not for us.

If you are concerned about full change over.....i would drain and fill, then drive, and then drain and fill again.

On a side note, are there magnetic plugs for our diff's? with the front diff issue we have, it would be nice to keep the metal contained between fluid changes.

Porsche buy "OEM" filters from Mahle as well as Mann.

Loren,

I cannot confirm that on air filters, but for oil filters, the Mann filter is not the same.

the Mann oil filter has more of plastic flange/end cap design, while the OEM and mahle filter both have the internal plastic frame with fiber end caps. Not sure if it matters, but there is a clear difference.

Fyi....oem filter with the Mahle one ordered from amazon....you can see the Mahle number on the oem porsche filter.

Bummer....did the airbags go off?

I would look for structure issues....If the large uni body rail disturbances. ...check panel gaps further up the car and see if those shrunk

I am changing all the fluids in the car and the gearbox is nearly the last one to do. This was where it all came unstuck.

I removed the pan, put the new filter, o-rings and gasket in and re-attached the sump pan.

I followed the tutorial on this DIY section as I went, filling the transmission slowly and cycling through the gears then back to park every few mins before adding another half quart. I repeated this at least 8 or 9 times. My transmission fluid was at over 40C according to my Durametric but no matter what, I could not get more than 4.5 quarts in the car before it drained out.

I then noticed I was getting some seepage along the edge of the new gasket so I pulled the pan back off and reseated the gasket. Still getting seepage, so I tightened the bolts a little more and one snapped off. The seepage increased.

So I now have 4 questions.

1. How hard is it likely to be to drill out and put a new bolt in there? I have a pretty extensive tool kit, but no access to a car lift, just jack stands.

2. Any ideas why there should be seepage with the new gasket?

3. Why would the transmission not take more than 4.5 quarts, when it should take twice that much?

4. Would I risk damage if I drove the car to a shop about 1 mile away with a half filled transmission?

1. I don't think you will need to drill it out. Since the head snapped off, there is no more thread load....see if you can cut a small slit in the remaining piece and turn it out with a flathead screwdriver.

2. Seepage is almost always due to dirty mating surface....pull the gasket and clean the faces off really well....

3. like the guy above....pull the filter and see that the o ring is seated....and that you took out the old one....the other thing.....if you get it too hot, additional fluid will come out....so it needs be right at 41C, no more....no less.

4. I would NOT drive it with such low fluid......

Updated with the results for several months and 20 tanks of fuel

really any street level pad will work. stoptech makes a good pad, mintex.....anything with a low metal content really.

But it WILL get better if you can get the pads up to temp and really bed them in.....

When i swap out track pads to auto X pads, you really have to build heat to get the transfer layer to form. My suggestion is continue to with bedding...once the transfer lay has formed and is uniform again, you won't have any problems.

My guess....your wires chaffed where it goes into the body and you have a ground and power wire touching. Since they aren't LED, power can backfeed through the ground and still work since standard bulbs are not diodes.

disconnect the harness from both ends and do a resistance check between the pins....every pin should be isolated from the other.....if you get a reading on your meter, then you have a cut somewhere on the harness.

My guess will be it is either where the harness goes through the back of the car (passenger side in the lower corner where the control box is located.....there SHOULD be a grommet that stops this, but it could have been a crappy install.

The other location would be where the plug goes into the connector down by the hitch....I doubt it was inside the bumper simply because the harness runs along the bumper frame with quite a few attachment clips....but if you were rear ended it could have damaged the harness.

Bottom line. I doubt it's the control unit.....

Agreed. There are LOTS of good craigslist finds for Cayenne's. I think original owners get all this "stuff," sell the car, and then have no use for the extra wheels and such. I have 3 sets of wheels now haha, 20" turbo wheels, 20" 5 spoke wheels, and 19" parallel spoke wheels. honestly it's cheaper for me buy a set of wheels with tires, then sell off the wheels once the tires are done.

I will second snow tires.....4wd is worthless without good tires.....i love the people who think 4wd is a substitute for good tires.....4wd won't stop any quicker than a 2wd car with crappy tires.

i live on a steep 500ft hill and alwys have enough traction to get up it with a car in tow....neighbors still haven't got the hint snow tires would do them good.

i have a little over 100k now on my CTT.....knock on wood, it's running good....5k oil changes seem to keep the metal ppm level down in my oil samples....other than a fuel pump and coolant pipes.....still going strong.

It seems to work every now and again.

It could be that i have a faulty rear end control module which actually stores all the settings and that is what communicates with the KESSY.

when you soldered the FETs in, if the gate portion(the backing plate of the semiconductor portion) isn't super good, then it can cause irratic behavior as well.

Was the solder job semi hacked up? you end up putting a lot of heat into the FET to get the solder to flow....unlikely to damage it due to heat, but if it wasn't sitting clean on the board with a good joint, you could be having issues there.

If the solder job was good then i'd start looking at the handles and other interior modules like you mentioned above.

Also remember....without bedding the new pads to the rotors, you will get squeal. i would personally start there....many road pads are going to more durable material, meaning bedding becomes more important.

Both on my daily cars and my track car, i run zero shims, grease, dampeners etc. All of these products, will help reduce the squeal, but is really covering up the issue, and not addressing the actual cause of the problem.

A quick test.....find a real long straight with no traffic....

30mph-1mph - do a few of these to build temp gradually in the brakes

45mph-1mph - do a few of these, with increasing brake pressure, you should be aggressive but not enough to engage ABS

65mph-1mph - do a few of these....at this point you should start to feel brake fade as the pads start to overtemp towards the last runs

Now drive it off for maybe 15-20minutes without stopping.....fully stopping at any point is not good....it'll bed a pad shape transfer layer in a single spot, causing squealing and possible pulsing.

i have used many pad compounds, while track pads and some aggressive street pads will cause some squeal, i have never seen an oem or street dedicated pad squeal loudly.....even my track pads don't squeal a whole lot once they have temperature in them.

how bad are the hesitations? If its significant (pre det possibly) then that's no good....not to mention, what happens if you get out 100 miles and you break down?

but back to your issue.....you got the right idea, read the plugs....a wet plug is lack of spark......a white plug is a "hot" plug.....or possibly a lean condition.

Run the car up to temp around your place (assuming it is reasonable to drive) and then pull the plugs and see if you got wet plugs anywhere.

are you sure it's not "intermittent" sensor issues? i know the first time i soldered in the new FETs it had a crappy cold solder joint on the gate and they handles seemed to only work sometimes.....required multiple attempts on the same handle before it would recognize my hand.