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Is it possible that this is the early signs of the driveshaft problem? I just replaced our drive shaft after waiting WAY too long. It started as a mild vibration only in certain circumstances... then it developed into a strong vibration all the time. I would say that the early symtoms was when the rubber bearing support suround was just starting to crack... then the fully developed vibration was when the rubber gave out completely. I'm not saying that the above mentioned is your issue... but it was the only vibration I've ever had from personal experience and was completely fixed with a new drive shaft. Something to maybe check into?
Sorry to bring back an older thread.... I was an early poster to this thread back in May 2011 when I purchased my first 05 CS. At that time there wasn't any issues with it and I was loving every moment of ownership... HOWEVER, now almost 2 years later, my engine has the knocking noise 88k miles. Maybe there is a different thread that I missed that goes into more detail about the issue? I would rather not replace the engine but that seems to be the only solution I'm reading about. My wife wants to walk away from the car and never go back to Porsche... but I don't want to give up so easily. Can this be a "re-hone" and rebuild fix? The noise is embarrassing to say the least, it sounds like it’s a diesel. It makes me cringe with the feeling the engine is just going to give up. Any thoughts or knowledge?
Thank you all for the great replies and advice, I am going to spend some time this weekend taking the brakes apart (not the calipers) and checking all of the thicknesses to see how I need to advance. Hardware is now a must in my mind... I'll check the thicknesses and move forward from there. All my best!
Loren, Do you have the "Go - No Go" tolerance and specs for the rotors (front and rear) ? Aesthetically they are beautiful, no heat spots, pitting, corrosion, or other. There is a very minimal "lip" on the outter rim of the rotor... never-the-less, I do have micrometers, so if you know the thickness specs, I can confirm if they are worn beyond its life value. Thank you!
wvicary, Thank you for the informative and helpful reply. By your advice, I'll get the hardware kit and replace the items that come within, I just wanted to make sure it was worth while, which you agree is. It also didn't dawn on me to do a brake system flush, but that sounds like a great idea as well! Thank you again!
My 2005 Cayenne S "brakepad workshop" message recently came on, so I checked the rotors and they seem to be in good standing condition, so I will be replacing all of the brake pads (front and rear) and the sensors (front and rear) so it's all fresh (minus rotors). I contacted Sunset Porsche and they gave me a great quote and itemized each part needed. I let them know that I wanted to do the same job as I would get as if the dealer was doing the work, so any parts that are usually replaced, quote those out as well... Rotors (not this time around) Pads (absolutely) Sensors (absolutely) Spring/Hardware Kit - Is this needed? Caliper Mount Bolts - are these needed for just pad replacement? I don't have a problem with purchasing these parts, but from the DIY write-ups I saw and thinking the job through in my head, I would imagine that the Caliper Mount Bolts go untouched when just doing a pad replacement. What about the Spring/Hardware Kit? Is this pad replacement related, or are these more items only needed if the caliper and rotor are actually removed? I'm ready to place the order with Sunset, I just want to make sure I get everything that I need and am not going to be ordering items that don't pertain to just a Pad and Sensor replacement. All my best!
Larry, I have confirmed the price of the short block from a Porsche dealer here in the USA @ $5,000usd. Plus sales tax and shipping of course. I'm not sure of the expenses of shipping a short block over the pond, but never the less, if it will save you a few thousand, it may just be worth it. All my best, -Cameron
Larry, Agreed, these problems should be addressed by Porsche. My recent used Cayenne purchase has included the aluminum plumbing kit, which I will be installing myself in about a week. The engine alloy issues however should have never passed Porsche standards and pre-production testing nor should the 996 and 997's problems. Seriously, this is PORSCHE... since when did they start selling junk cars? I have found a source for a new "short block" Cayenne 4.5L engine here in the US for roughly $5,000usd. Although expensive for a short block... I believe that this price is reasonable enough that if this issue should occur with my recent Cayenne purchase, I would just replace the engine myself as the dealer charges far too much. Larry, Have you had your engine replaced yet?
Jagman, Thank you for your post... it is encouraging to hear that it will take less than an hour to get through the intake manifold, this coolant pipe change shouldn't take too long with all things considered. As mentioned, if the starter is accessible with the coolant plumbing intact, then I will leave it be until the time comes to naturally change it. :thankyou: -Cameron
I have recently read quite a few posts about this engine issue, which has me nervous as I just bought an 05 Cayenne S that I am picking up from the dealer tomorrow. Just a thought... if this problem does show up in a couple of years, and I don't want to pay for a short block... is it possible to just rebuild the motor instead of replacing it? Bore or re-sleeve the cylinders and put new rings and/or pistons in? Please correct me if this isn't feasible, I am mechanically inclined enough to do the work, its the insane (out of warranty) dealer costs that I'm reading about that is practically half the cost of the initial purchase... I'm just looking for a more financially reasonable way of fixing the issue should it occur. Your thoughts? :help: -Cameron
Rizzo, You bring up an interesting point with regard to the work shop manual, if the coolant pipes can remain intact for the replacement of the starter I may just hold off on replacing it at this time. When I begin the work on the coolant pipes, the first thing I will look at once the intake manifold is removed is if the starter is accessible. I pick up the CS from the dealer tomorrow, so I will be changing out the coolant lines in a week or so. I'll do the complete write up with high quality color pictures so that this forum has a step by step instruction manual for this process, should anyone in the future wish to tackle this install themselves. Take care, and a big thanks to everyone for their inputs, I greatly appreciate it all! -Cameron
Brent, Thank you for your advice, I did notice that in a picture I saw... the starter was directly under all of these coolant pipes. Do you know the average life of these starters (not including ones that were coolant soaked)? Thank you Brent for your time, it is greatly appreciated. Best regards, -Cameron
Jagman1, Thank you kindly for the information you have provided in regards to the torque specifications for the more critical parts of the install, I greatly appreciate it. Good idea doing the thermostat at the same time of the install, I think I'll follow your lead on this one and do the same. Best regards, -Cameron
Hello to all, I am new to this forum as my wife and I will be receiving our 2005 Cayenne S in a few days. I had read that the plastic coolant lines on the Cayenne have a tendency to crack which can be quite a disaster. Upon the negotiations with the dealer, they agreed to include the new aluminum plumbing kit with the sale of the vehicle. I am very mechanically handy and will be doing a complete Step-By-Step DIY write-up instruction manual filled with high definition color pictures and posting it here in the forum for other members that would like to accomplish this job without paying dealer service fees. What I am specifically looking for are the torque specs for each of the bolts that I will be removing and re-installing. I thank you for your time, this looks to be a great forum. All my best, -Cameron