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fedekz986

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Everything posted by fedekz986

  1. Can anyone help me with my radio code? Cdr-220 Type 4462 Serial W5005929
  2. Those instructions look great thanks!!! Would I need to flush the coolant to do the replacement? What would it cost to do a cooling system overhaul. Like replace the thermostat, water pump, and heater core. Thanks!!
  3. 1999 Boxster 2.5L with 98k miles. Purchased the car in the middle of summer last year, so I didn't even think to test out the heater. Now that it's in the 30's - 40's (coooooold here in Texas!), the fact the heater only blows out warm air is starting to become a nuisance. A little background story, last summer I purchased the car, and the temp gauge was usually at the beginning of the "0" in the 180 on the temp gauge when driving. When I would sit at a stop light, or ever get in some bumper to bumper traffic, the temp gauge would go up to the very far edge of the "0" on the 180, and maybe once or twice, actually went past the "0", but never hit that 3rd hash line. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it concerned me because my old cars have always had a temp gauge that just stayed dead center and never moved once it warmed up. Outside temp is about 85-95 degrees. Not sure about the antifreeze/water ratio. Now that it's winter, and never above 60 degrees, the temp gauge has always been on the beginning of the "0" at the most, and usually around the "8" in 180. It takes about 10-13 minutes of idleing to warm up to the operating temp, and probably 8 minutes of driving to get it up to operating temp according to the gauge. Warm air starts to come out after about 10 minutes. Climate Control is always set on "HI", but it just blows warm air. The blower motor seems to be working fine, the fan speeds work, and it blows out a good amount of air. What I've tried/looked at: Coolant level is good Opened cooling system burp valve in the trunk. Opened the valvue while engine was cold, then drove with valve open for approx 120 miles. Put in neutral, and revved up to 5000 rpms several times. Heat seems to get hotter after the engine is revved, and temp goes up on the temp gauge - but that may just be my imagination, and it still isn't "hot" What should I try/do next? Possibly related information - I was cleaning the front radiators last summer, cleaning the debris. When I was pulling off the front R AC condensor, I bent a tab, and the freon leaked out. I was cheap, and had the AC condensor tab repair (welded) back on a professional shop. I re installed it, and had a vacuum pulled on the AC system for 1 hr, and refilled with freon - AC tech said no leaks. But maybe once every 3 weeks, after my car has sat for about 2-3 hours, ill hear a high high pitched hissing sound for about 4 seconds that sounds like pressure leaking out. It may happen more often, but it's just hit and miss when i am there to hear it.
  4. Sweet thank you again!! The shop I took it to doesn't work on Porsche's usually, the guy I spoke with, and who gave me a quote owned a boxster for 4 years so he may have some experience, but then again - it may not be him working on the car. I've heard good reviews about the shop. Are control arms/tie rods something porsche specific, or difficult to do? I'm trying to decide between taking it to them vs an actual porsche independent shop. Also, is $74.00/hour a pretty reasonable labor rate? Thank you!! Stephen
  5. Hey, I went to the shop today, and was told I need 2x lower control arms, and 2x outer tie rods. I told them I would source the parts myself, and they quoted me just for labor. They quoted me 3 hours to install both lower control arms, and 1.3 hours the install the 2 outer tie rods, followed by an $99.00 alignment. Their hourly rate is $7400, so the total came out to $455.69 out the door. Is this a good price?
  6. Hey guys, I'm taking my car into the shop tomorrow to have a front passenger side squeak/creak officially diagnosed. I'm pretty sure it's going to be a bad ball joint (creaking when turning the wheel at low speeds, creaking when going over bumps, and creaks pretty bad with the slightest downward pressure above the R front wheel). I've read the ball joints themselves are not serviceable, and require you to replace the entire control arm. I plan on purchasing a new (or refurbished) one through vertex, or ebay for $100-$140, to avoid the dealer $400 (or whatever it is exactly) price. What should labor charges be to install it (or how many hrs)? I'll be taking it to a independent shop that only works on Porsche's Thanks!
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