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About HGGuate

  • Birthday 03/09/1969

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    Porsche 911 (996)
    Volvo S-80 AWD V8
  • Future cars
    Porsche 911 C4s

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1,289 profile views

HGGuate's Achievements


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  1. I own both the Bentley Publishers as well as the 101 Projects for your Porsche 911. The books complement each other and are great reference for the do-it-yourself Porsche Owner. I have saved a few thousand dollars on mechanics doing some diagnostic and mechanical work on my car myself. The books paid for themselves a few times over with just the first job, a 10 minute replacement of the Mass Airflow Sensor my local Porsche Dealer had offered to change for big bucks. I have to say that there are a lot of resources available online, specially here on Renntech, but it really helps to have these books on your workbench, next to your tools and car. I cant imagine searching for WIFI signal when I am getting grease all over myself.
  2. Gray pieces of foam are flying out of my A/C vents. I changed the Cabin air filter a few years back, and it is not the color of the foam pieces coming out, so I imagine it is not this filter. Any ideas of what is coming out of the A/C? I dont want to go through the trouble of taking the dash out without a previous idea of what i may find. 1998 Carrera 996 60,000 KM A/C
  3. The smart engineering that Porsche hides in its cars management systems does not cease to amaze me. After a few years with the car, I keep finding smart features that I had never heard of or read about in my owners manual. Yesterday after a few hours of spirited driving in back country in my 1998 Carrera (996), I returned to the city and found a huge traffic jam that had me almost at a standstill for a half hour. Predictably, the engine temperature started going up (not to redline, but close to the 120 mark) At one point the car idle speed started behaving strangely (Idle would drop from 1800 to about 1200 rpm for a second or two and would then go back up to 1800, cycling back to 1200 after about a second or two). The AC fans did not stop blowing, but the System stopped cooling the air while the engine temp was high. We got past the traffic jam and driving at 40 KM for a few miles and the phenomenon stopped (idle went back to normal and AC started cooling again.) Once again we hit traffic and as the engine temp climbed once again, the Idle change and AC cutout came back until we started moving and the temp dropped back to normal ranges. I have tried to find info on this motor behavior on Renntech, my owners manual and a few Porsche resources I have in my library but have not found any information detailing this or other protection mechanisms the car has. This behavior may seem like a trivial (and logical) behavior to expect from the cars computer, what surprises me is that it was included in the electronics of a car built in 1998 and probably designed years before that. I would love to hear about other engineering quirks Rentech readers have found through the years with their Cars, the manual only goes so far to instruct us about our "babies".
  4. agree on Adrians book... great for 996, not specifically upgrades
  5. my friend recently purchased a 993. He does not know much about the car and does not have any documentation. From the look of it in the pictures I saw, a few things have been modded (lights, spoiler, badges, etc.) Does this look like a Widebody or do you think it is a narrow body 993? Thanks for your opinions.
  6. Our babies are cars after all, I would consider two major concerns about winter driving in a Porsche: 1.) Porsche owners want their cars to last for decades, salt from the road causes corrosion and damage at a much quicker rate than the natural aging process planned for. 2.) High torque and low weight make for a bad combination when roads get slippery, most drivers are not thinking about this in their everyday drives and that is risky (much riskier than premature aging...) Wash it down after the "salt bath" and be very careful when driving on slippery roads..... and drive it year round.
  7. Congratulations. Very much like the one I found. Ipod Mod and Clear Side Markers are what I have done to it. Dont think Ill do much more.
  8. Found a nice 996, enjoying Porsche ownership

  9. Congratulations and welcome to the forum. Let us see how it ends up.
  10. Installing clear side markers on your US Spec 996 US Spec cars come equipped with yellow or amber side indicators. Many Porsche enthusiasts prefer the Euro Spec clear or smoked side markers. Although these markers are clear, white side indicators will not pass inspection in the US, so manufacturers include yellow bulbs in the kit so you may keep your car to spec. Clear side markers can be sourced through specialized Porsche parts dealers like Pelican Parts or other internet sources for about $ 23 each. This DIY upgrade is very simple, liter Author HGGuate Category Carrera (996) - Mods Submitted 05/08/2011 10:56 AM Updated 05/08/2011 10:58 AM
  11. How did I do with the speaker upgrade? here is the complete text to my post, elsewhere on the forums.... I recently Installed 4 inch replacement speakers in my stock factory locations (dash and rear quarter) on an early 996 with stock head unit. The stock speakers were very simple, single driver, cardboard cone speakers, obviously not high fidelity. My intention was to make a small upgrade and decide if I needed to go any further after some time listening to the new sound. I was not interested in a louder sound system than stock, just better fidelity. My initial choice was to go with 2 way, coaxial speakers in the original factory locations, using the factory grills, so as to not have any visible modifications inside my car. My key concern was that replacement speakers fit into the factory locations with no great modification beyond making the speakers fit in the factory grills. Using the procedure illustrated on Youtube (search for "Boxster Speaker Replacement") I modified the factory grilles so they would hold the replacement speakers. If you are to embark on this project, I recommend you have a rotary tool available to cut the grills and sand down whatever you need to on the grill back and "speaker basket", you will need a torx head driver and a small wrench to turn the torx head for the screw placed closest to the windshield. You will also need a soldering iron and some quick epoxy or fast drying glue (superglue). Also, I would recommend you have some fast hardening silicone to seal the speakers into the grills once you modify them. I dont remember this last part being specified on the Youtube video, but it makes a big difference on the reproduction quality of the speakers once the job is completed. The space below the dash speaker grilles is large and deep enough for just about any 4 inch speaker to fit (I did not check to see if 5.25 inch speakers would have fit, I would imagine they would, but would require much more modification or replacement of the factory grills, which I did not want to do). The space on the rear quarter speaker locations has less leeway. Although my replacement speakers (JL Audio C2 400x) have much larger magnets than the original speakers, they fit without having to cut any material out of the firewall insulation or further modification behind the grills. I was initially tempted to not replace the rear quarter speakers, as the space was tighter and I usually listen to my sound faded slightly toward the front (2). I am very happy that I changed all 4 speakers, as the sound baffling created in the rear quarter is much more effective than the one created in the dash location and the sound quality for Bass reproduction is much better from the back (no crossovers were installed or changes in the wiring, just the physics of sound reproduction with a well sealed speaker grill and sound insulating material that acts as baffling behind the speaker). I now fade my sound a bit to the back (-2) and have better Bass reproduction than I did before. The replacement speakers I used are not extremely expensive or particularly cheap; however, having better quality midrange cone material and a separate tweeter drivers, definitely makes for a great difference in sound fidelity. In my opinion, this "speaker only" upgrade is definitely worth the time and effort. I would imagine a good sound shop will recommend you install an amplifier, crossovers, and a sub-woofer for the best quality sound. While this is absolutely true, I am not sure if I the investment in cost and modifications would be worth it (who really blasts the sound in a 911?). Your time to make the modifications and the risk of damaging the dashboard and speaker grills are probably something you should consider before trying to do this on your own if you don´t have DIY experience. If you do not, bring the Youtube video to your local car stereo shop (this mod may not be intuitive to them) and let them have a go at it.
  12. A few weeks ago I upgraded the stock speakers in my car with JL Audio 4 inch speakers. The modification was not complicated, and I was very pleased with the quality of the sound (not too loud, as the CR-210 only puts out about 15-20 watts, but much better clarity and quality). I wholeheartedly recommend the upgrade to anybody with a stock speakers still in their factory locations. Do all 4 speakers, as it makes an important difference. After a lot of searching over the net I came up with an idea of how to access my IPOD through the CR-210 head unit and was able to implement it successfully (and very inexpensively). The solution requires your CR-210 have a CD Changer installed and a 12$ cable (plus radio removal keys and an hour or two of your time) I have placed the complete DIY guide in the appropriate section, and hope it can help people like me who would rather tinker with their own car than have a Car Stereo specialist fix your problems with a new install. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/tutorials/article/242-mp3-player-through-cr-210-with-cd-changer/
  13. US Spec cars come equipped with yellow or amber side indicators. Many Porsche enthusiasts prefer the Euro Spec clear or smoked side markers. Although these markers are clear, white side indicators will not pass inspection in the US, so manufacturers include yellow bulbs in the kit so you may keep your car to spec. Clear side markers can be sourced through specialized Porsche parts dealers like Pelican Parts or other internet sources for about $ 23 each. This DIY upgrade is very simple, literally a 10 minute job. You will need a pair of needle nosed pliers and a few towels to protect the work area on your wheel wells from unexpected scratches while you work. Starting the job, clean dust from area with a wet towel Apply outward pressure to the plastic side marker to release the factory marker from its holding position Once the clip has cleared its holding bay, pull the factory marker backwards to release the clips closest to the front of the car Place a towel between the factory marker and the car to avoid scratches and using needle nosed pliers remove the Clip that holds the Bulb to the electrical wiring before removing the wiring from the bulb. Turn the bulb ¼ turn counter clockwise to remove from the side marker. Select the bulb you wish to place in the side marker, push into the electrical housing, and replace the holding clip before inserting the bulb into the marker and turning ¼ turn clockwise to affix into the side marker. Insert the front clips into their slits closest to the front of the car, guide the wiring into its hold in the wheel well and press the back of the side marker as far in as possible to its location. Use a rounded tool to press forward on the holding clips of the new side markers. Push them as far forward as possible before pressing the side markers into their socket.
  14. MP3 Player through CR 210 with CD Changer After searching around the forums for detailed instructions and feedback on how to get MP3 player connectivity through my Becker CR-210 head unit and not finding exactly what I needed, I decided to take a chance and try my luck on a cheap solution to the problem. About $ 20 plus my time. The compatibility of the plug I purchased clearly stated it would work with the CR/CDR 220, but had no mention of the 210 unit. Although I could not find any information about this on the forums or the web, Author HGGuate Category Carrera (996) - Mods Submitted 05/08/2011 08:22 AM
  15. After searching around the forums for detailed instructions and feedback on how to get MP3 player connectivity through my Becker CR-210 head unit and not finding exactly what I needed, I decided to take a chance and try my luck on a cheap solution to the problem. About $ 20 plus my time. The compatibility of the plug I purchased clearly stated it would work with the CR/CDR 220, but had no mention of the 210 unit. Although I could not find any information about this on the forums or the web, my belief was that Becker would not have changed basic engineering of their audio connectivity between one unit and the next generation, and I was willing to invest my time and effort to find out. This guide will only work for head units with the CD-Changer installed. Although the engineering of the plugs is correct, the Becker Head Unit has to believe the audio is coming from the CD Changer to play the MP3 Source (you will have to leave a CD permanently in the CD Changer.) You will lose the use of your CD Changer, but cannot remove it from the vehicle as the changer must be installed for the modification to work on a CR-210. I have laid out the steps with a lot of detail to aid those with little confidence on their mechanical skills. I would think that anybody with the slightest mechanical inclination can perform the modification with no problems at all. Likewise, if you don't have the time, this guide will help your local car stereo shop who should perform the modification in less than a "billable hour." This solution is not an "IPOD integration". The head unit will amplify whatever is playing on the sound source you connect through your speakers with great sound quality; however, you will have to charge your MP3 player by other means and the head unit will not have control over the player. Preparation and Tools required The area behind the stereo and the inside of many of the parts you will be removing are dirty and covered by grease, adhesive or dust, I recommend you have Handy Wipes and Towels available and clean your hands often, so you don't leave marks on the trim and leather pieces you will be handling. I would also recommend you assign at least two hours of daylight time to finish your job, as a lot of the work will be done under the dash and good lighting really helps to do it well and quickly. - Torx head and standard screwdrivers - Power drill with a ½ inch bit or Rotary Tool with drilling and sanding bits - Hobby Knife Specialty Items required - Becker type blue 8 pin connector to 3.5 MM Audio Cable adapter ($12.95): Search for "Porsche Aux Adaptor" on Ebay, (seller: ipodmp34capa). This is a simple cable with a 3.5 MM audio jack (headphone jack) - Becker radio removal keys ($3-5 for 4 keys): search for "audi removal tool" or "rrk132" (seller: uneeksupply) I recommend buying two sets (4 keys) as they are relatively fragile. Auctions found searching "Porsche removal tool" consistently came up with twice the price as the Audi search. - Becker stereo security code: a 4 digit security code printed on a "Radio Code Card" that should be with your auto paperwork or manuals. If you don't have the code, you need to obtain it through your Dealer or request it on the forums by posting your VIN and head unit serial number (printed on the side of the unit). This code will be needed to reactivate your stereo after you disconnect the power source. Step by Step Guide Overview: This guide will walk you through the removal of the head unit and trim around it in order to change the wiring (plug and play changes) that connect the head unit to the CD Changer and install the aux cable. It will also show the steps needed remove the central column hardware and modifications needed in order to route the headphone jack to the oddments tray and have a visually clean installation. Power off and remove the key from the car before starting the process. Remove the carpet trim pieces behind the Center Column by pulling outward on the green dots and sliding toward the front of the car Remove the leather trim pieces on the Center Column by pulling outward on the green dots and sliding toward the back of the car. Remove the trim piece that covers the bottom of the Center Column by carefully pulling on the green dots Remove the faceplate of your head unit by pressing a small button on the right side of the faceplate Insert the Removal tools into the head unit and push in until they click (the flat edge of the tools should face outward, the rounded edge inward) Pull the unit straight out of the Center Column. It may need to be jiggled a little to come out. It may be best not to pull the unit all the way out, as you will have to disconnect the cables behind the stereo before taking it out completely and this is easier to do once the following step has been performed. Carefully remove the plastic trim around the Air Conditioning controls Unscrew and pull out the A/C Control unit by unscrewing the two screws marked in green close to the top of the unit Reach into the cavity and unsnap the audio and power connectors from the stereo head unit (left side from the front). Also unhook the antenna connector from the head unit (right side from the front) and slide the stereo unit out of the Center Column. Once you have taken the unit out, remove the Removal Keys from the unit by pressing in on the sides of the head unit and pulling the keys straight out. Remove the Center Column housing by removing 2 Torx screws on each side. The longer screws hold the Center Column housing at the point closest to the front of the car Side view of the Center Column Rear view of the Center Column Remove the Oddments tray and Cassete tray by pressing them from the back. The top unit (cassette holder)should be removed first. Using a hobby knife, cut a square in the rubber mat at the back of the oddments tray and using your Drill or Rotary tool drill the hole through which you will route the audio jack into the car. Be careful as this part of your work will be visible from the car cabin. The ½ inch hole may be too small to get the audio jack through. Use your hobby knife or larger bits if necessary to enlarge the hole as need. Connect the Blue Becker adapter to the back of your Head Unit as illustrated. The Green Becker connector from your car will go next to it where indicated by the green dot on the illustration. Route the cable through the opening where your stereo will be installed, straight back and down so it exits at the middle of your Center Console location where marked by a green dot in the following illustration. Start sliding your Head Unit back into the correct location, taking care to guide all the wiring to places that do not block the metal guides that will hold the unit once it is back in place. Reconnect the Black, Brown and Green audio connectors (the original blue connector from the CD-Changer will not be reconnected). Power up the vehicle and turn on your stereo, you will be prompted for the 4 digit security code. Once you have entered it with the numeric selector keys, press up on the right hand side selector and the unit should begin to operate normally. Place a CD in one of the CD Changer locations and connect your MP3 player to the audio jack. Select CD from your source and press play on the MP3 Player. The head unit should play your MP3 audio source, but the LED display will indicate it is playing a CD. Push the unit in until it clicks into place, if you feel you are pressing too hard, check the back of the unit to see if the wiring harnesses are not blocking the insertion of the head unit. The Aux cable should be routed through the back to where the Center Column housing will be installed. Begin reassembly and route your Aux cable to the oddments tray before reinstalling the carpet trim pieces at the back of the Center Column. Happy Driving with all your tunes.
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