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Rolando
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An update that may help some members of the forum (hopefully). Could not fix problem, the clutch did not respond after my attempt to fix the issues with the pedal and slave cylinder. Dealer diagnosis was "need new clutch" $2500. Will pick up car tomorow and put it for sale asap.
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Considering a Boxster, please advise
Rolando replied to 01Blackum's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I own a 98, it averages a problem every two months or so. All problems are not mayor, last 12 months: MAF, oxygen sensors, coolant reservoir, starter, slave cylinder, door handle, ignition switch etc... My advice is: buy it if one or more of the following applies: You are a mechanic (or your best friend is), it would be a weekend car and don't mind to visit shops/dealers more often than other more reliable cars, it is your mid-life crisis car and you would get rid off it as you grow out of the crisis (hopefully soon) :lol: , you are going for the amateur race car driver experience (track weekends). I am actually considering buying a daily driver (fourth car in the family) and keeping the car till it is an antic or just replacing it for better overall car (I an not considering pouring gasoline over it and throwing a match anymore -it was my feeling last week :wacko: ). Good luck with your decision -
Wrong again, good thing I bought both the master and the slave cylinders. The slave is busted which by the way is another Audi part. It seems that I am destined to learn the hard way and keep answering my own questions (or having to find them through yahoo search). This is pathetic. ... :blush: No intention to offend ...but I doubt nobody has done this and could have helped .... If a radio question gets 52 answers either I don't ask my questions correctly or I must be in the wrong forum.
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Thank you Loren. I removed the booster spring, cleaned and greased all parts. Actually everything looked ok with the exception of the master cylinder push rod. A shoulder developed in the rod due to friction (see picture) -not sure if that was the cause of the piston not traveling all the way and the unstack metalic noice I heard. :unsure: Doc1.doc As a weekend band-aid I filed the edges off with a dremmel -but if the problem was inside de cylinder most likely I'll have to deal with it again. The master cylinder is $56.75 at Pelican; If anybody has replaced it I would appreciate feedback -I'm mainly concerned with the bleeding process. :help: Rolando My problem started on Thursday after work when I was trying to start the car to come home. I checked a few things and desided lo leave it for somebody with more knowledge so I towed the car to a mecanic. The guy charged me $180 to FIX the problem buy twisting the clutch switch arm so it would engage earlier. The small detail is that I could barely shift gears :soapbox: The independent Porsche guy could not even see the car for a week (too busy) and the dealer would probably replace the clutch pedal, the ignition switch (new metal one), the master cylinder and perhaps the whole clutch :D .... I know ... you get what you pay for. UPDATE: Clutch pedal stayed-in (so much for band-aid fix). Would this validate the clutch master cylinder theory? Help would be much appreciated. :help:
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:soapbox: Thank you Loren. I removed the booster spring, cleaned and greased all parts. Actually everything looked ok with the exception of the master cylinder push rod. A shoulder developed in the rod due to friction (see picture) -not sure if that was the cause of the piston not traveling all the way and the unstack metalic noice I heard. :unsure: Doc1.doc As a weekend band-aid I filed the edges off with a dremmel -but if the problem was inside de cylinder most likely I'll have to deal with it again. The master cylinder is $56.75 at Pelican; If anybody has replaced it I would appreciate feedback -I'm mainly concerned with the bleeding process. :help: Rolando My problem started on Thursday after work when I was trying to start the car to come home. I checked a few things and desided lo leave it for somebody with more knowledge so I towed the car to a mecanic. The guy charged me $180 to FIX the problem buy twisting the clutch switch arm so it would engage earlier. The small detail is that I could barely shift gears :soapbox: The independent Porsche guy could not even see the car for a week (too busy) and the dealer would probably replace the clutch pedal, the ignition switch (new metal one), the master cylinder and perhaps the whole clutch :D .... I know ... you get what you pay for.
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My clutch pedal was not traveling all the way down, consequently the rocking switch on the back of the pedal did not engage and the car would not start. :cursing: I disconnected the wires from the switch, put them together and the car starts every single time :clapping: After pumping the pedal hard a few times it made a metalic noice, traveled all the way down and seems to work fine (for now). My question: is there anything that I could change/fix inside the barrel/piston that is pushed by the clutch pedal? I do not want this problem to repeat itself <_< Rolando 98 boxster manual
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Ignition Switch Or ? Questions...
Rolando replied to joee's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
My ignition switch from Autohaus AZ only lasted a couple of months. I got another one from AutoZone (made in Germany) that seemed to be much better. I heard that Audi still uses the plastic switch -this may be a better option. I said seemed to be because today (after about a year of the last replacement) I could not starte the car :cursing: Lights come on ok but no response to the key turn. I'm praying for a switch problem :( -I'll also try my second key. -
I would sand it off (coase) and put mesh grill guards to protect the radiators. New grills would require you to remove the entire bumper (they are placed from the inside). -If you still want to paint the grills, you may try Krylon "Fusion" (no prep, superbond for plastic). http://www.dickblick.com/zz014/11/ Rolando
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The overspray must be more than a few tiny drops <_< . I would try sanding with a coarse paper an then use a finer one followed by polishing paste so I would not need to paint the grills. If you paid full price for the paint job, take it back ...it is bad quality work -they should fix it. :cursing: Good luck
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A bad MAF would also give you P1124 along with the P1126; same thing with an air leak. The oxygen sensor before cat on cylinders 4-6 side may be bad. I doubt all injectors on one side are acting up.
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Some of these devices are advertised to provide effects that do not even exist such as the "gas line ionizer". ;) These products belong to the time-machine/parallel-universe-gate category.
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is posible rewire a boxster 2000 with MOST system?
Rolando replied to davidfeal's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Hopefully the "dude" that tells you it can be done is not the one who sold you the system <_< The people that are answering your question in this forun KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. If you are not satisfied call a Porsche dealer ...then try to get your money back. If you are in the US, sue the guy -that is what small claims court is for... ;) -
Carbon canister seccion drawing needed
Rolando replied to Rolando's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Thanks Loren; I was following an old post (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6332). My noice comes from the right front, (I also get a CEl P0441 -not sure they are related). I checked the purge valve by removing it an applying 12v, it opens nicely. :thumbup: The post says... "When the car is doing it, undo the gas cap and stick your finger in the filler neck and activate the ORVR switch. If you hear a click and the howling stops, you probably need this valve." They called the valve: "the carbon control valve, part number 996.605.213.01." I am a chemist so I use my imagination a lot to make up for my lack of mechanical knowledge. :unsure: Shouldn't the canister have a breathing valve that could malfunction? Your link points also to the whell well as the place where the cannister is located. I'll dig in there to see what I find. :eek: -
I need help from somebody that has the Shop Manual. I'm dealing with the howling noice -maybe due to carbon control valve <_< , I need a drawing of the carbon canister, how to access ...etc. Your help would be greatly appreciated :help:
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CEL code P0441-carbon canister purge valve?
Rolando replied to Rolando's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Thanks Loren, Your last advise (from previous post) was dead-on :notworthy: (oil separator bellows responsible for codes P1124/P1126) ....Is there a way to check the pressure sensor? or should I just get a new one and replace it?
