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Rolando

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Everything posted by Rolando

  1. Rolando
    An update that may help some members of the forum (hopefully). Could not fix problem, the clutch did not respond after my attempt to fix the issues with the pedal and slave cylinder. Dealer diagnosis was "need new clutch" $2500. Will pick up car tomorow and put it for sale asap.
  2. Rolando
    I own a 98, it averages a problem every two months or so. All problems are not mayor, last 12 months: MAF, oxygen sensors, coolant reservoir, starter, slave cylinder, door handle, ignition switch etc... My advice is: buy it if one or more of the following applies: You are a mechanic (or your best friend is), it would be a weekend car and don't mind to visit shops/dealers more often than other more reliable cars, it is your mid-life crisis car and you would get rid off it as you grow out of the crisis (hopefully soon) :lol: , you are going for the amateur race car driver experience (track weekends). I am actually considering buying a daily driver (fourth car in the family) and keeping the car till it is an antic or just replacing it for better overall car (I an not considering pouring gasoline over it and throwing a match anymore -it was my feeling last week :wacko: ). Good luck with your decision
  3. Rolando
    Wrong again, good thing I bought both the master and the slave cylinders. The slave is busted which by the way is another Audi part. It seems that I am destined to learn the hard way and keep answering my own questions (or having to find them through yahoo search). This is pathetic. ... :blush: No intention to offend ...but I doubt nobody has done this and could have helped .... If a radio question gets 52 answers either I don't ask my questions correctly or I must be in the wrong forum.
  4. Rolando
    Thank you Loren. I removed the booster spring, cleaned and greased all parts. Actually everything looked ok with the exception of the master cylinder push rod. A shoulder developed in the rod due to friction (see picture) -not sure if that was the cause of the piston not traveling all the way and the unstack metalic noice I heard. :unsure: Doc1.doc As a weekend band-aid I filed the edges off with a dremmel -but if the problem was inside de cylinder most likely I'll have to deal with it again. The master cylinder is $56.75 at Pelican; If anybody has replaced it I would appreciate feedback -I'm mainly concerned with the bleeding process. :help: Rolando My problem started on Thursday after work when I was trying to start the car to come home. I checked a few things and desided lo leave it for somebody with more knowledge so I towed the car to a mecanic. The guy charged me $180 to FIX the problem buy twisting the clutch switch arm so it would engage earlier. The small detail is that I could barely shift gears :soapbox: The independent Porsche guy could not even see the car for a week (too busy) and the dealer would probably replace the clutch pedal, the ignition switch (new metal one), the master cylinder and perhaps the whole clutch :D .... I know ... you get what you pay for. UPDATE: Clutch pedal stayed-in (so much for band-aid fix). Would this validate the clutch master cylinder theory? Help would be much appreciated. :help:
  5. Rolando
    :soapbox: Thank you Loren. I removed the booster spring, cleaned and greased all parts. Actually everything looked ok with the exception of the master cylinder push rod. A shoulder developed in the rod due to friction (see picture) -not sure if that was the cause of the piston not traveling all the way and the unstack metalic noice I heard. :unsure: Doc1.doc As a weekend band-aid I filed the edges off with a dremmel -but if the problem was inside de cylinder most likely I'll have to deal with it again. The master cylinder is $56.75 at Pelican; If anybody has replaced it I would appreciate feedback -I'm mainly concerned with the bleeding process. :help: Rolando My problem started on Thursday after work when I was trying to start the car to come home. I checked a few things and desided lo leave it for somebody with more knowledge so I towed the car to a mecanic. The guy charged me $180 to FIX the problem buy twisting the clutch switch arm so it would engage earlier. The small detail is that I could barely shift gears :soapbox: The independent Porsche guy could not even see the car for a week (too busy) and the dealer would probably replace the clutch pedal, the ignition switch (new metal one), the master cylinder and perhaps the whole clutch :D .... I know ... you get what you pay for.
  6. Rolando
    My clutch pedal was not traveling all the way down, consequently the rocking switch on the back of the pedal did not engage and the car would not start. :cursing: I disconnected the wires from the switch, put them together and the car starts every single time :clapping: After pumping the pedal hard a few times it made a metalic noice, traveled all the way down and seems to work fine (for now). My question: is there anything that I could change/fix inside the barrel/piston that is pushed by the clutch pedal? I do not want this problem to repeat itself <_< Rolando 98 boxster manual
  7. Rolando
    My ignition switch from Autohaus AZ only lasted a couple of months. I got another one from AutoZone (made in Germany) that seemed to be much better. I heard that Audi still uses the plastic switch -this may be a better option. I said seemed to be because today (after about a year of the last replacement) I could not starte the car :cursing: Lights come on ok but no response to the key turn. I'm praying for a switch problem :( -I'll also try my second key.
  8. Rolando
    I would sand it off (coase) and put mesh grill guards to protect the radiators. New grills would require you to remove the entire bumper (they are placed from the inside). -If you still want to paint the grills, you may try Krylon "Fusion" (no prep, superbond for plastic). http://www.dickblick.com/zz014/11/ Rolando
  9. Rolando
    The overspray must be more than a few tiny drops <_< . I would try sanding with a coarse paper an then use a finer one followed by polishing paste so I would not need to paint the grills. If you paid full price for the paint job, take it back ...it is bad quality work -they should fix it. :cursing: Good luck
  10. Rolando
    A bad MAF would also give you P1124 along with the P1126; same thing with an air leak. The oxygen sensor before cat on cylinders 4-6 side may be bad. I doubt all injectors on one side are acting up.
  11. Rolando
    Some of these devices are advertised to provide effects that do not even exist such as the "gas line ionizer". ;) These products belong to the time-machine/parallel-universe-gate category.
  12. Rolando
    Hopefully the "dude" that tells you it can be done is not the one who sold you the system <_< The people that are answering your question in this forun KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. If you are not satisfied call a Porsche dealer ...then try to get your money back. If you are in the US, sue the guy -that is what small claims court is for... ;)
  13. Rolando
    Thanks Loren; I was following an old post (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6332). My noice comes from the right front, (I also get a CEl P0441 -not sure they are related). I checked the purge valve by removing it an applying 12v, it opens nicely. :thumbup: The post says... "When the car is doing it, undo the gas cap and stick your finger in the filler neck and activate the ORVR switch. If you hear a click and the howling stops, you probably need this valve." They called the valve: "the carbon control valve, part number 996.605.213.01." I am a chemist so I use my imagination a lot to make up for my lack of mechanical knowledge. :unsure: Shouldn't the canister have a breathing valve that could malfunction? Your link points also to the whell well as the place where the cannister is located. I'll dig in there to see what I find. :eek:
  14. Rolando
    I need help from somebody that has the Shop Manual. I'm dealing with the howling noice -maybe due to carbon control valve <_< , I need a drawing of the carbon canister, how to access ...etc. Your help would be greatly appreciated :help:
  15. Rolando
    Thanks Loren, Your last advise (from previous post) was dead-on :notworthy: (oil separator bellows responsible for codes P1124/P1126) ....Is there a way to check the pressure sensor? or should I just get a new one and replace it?
  16. Rolando
    One more code for the count :cursing: P0441 "fuel ventilation system above limit". Could it be the EVAP canister shut-off valve, not working properly? Sometimes I hear a buzzing noice towards the right side of the dashboard. Could use help with locating/accesing parts and diagnosing. :unsure: Did somebody got this code? what was the fix?
  17. Rolando
    Thanks; no work was done arround muffer or exast. Yesterday I replaced the Oxygen sensors (before cat) and I also found broken hose below oil separator (may have been only responsible for all fuel mixture codes). Things looked ok till today when the car was hard to start. Code today P1602 (voltage supply open circuit) -second time seeing this code. I can't find any topics dealing with this problem. Rolando I'm getting a strong feeling that buying this very nice looking but unreliable car was a poor decision. ~Very frustrating quite different experience than with my old Benz :( .
  18. Rolando
    :help: Was getting codes P1124 and p1126, (P102 disappeared after replacing the MAF two months ago). Found a small air leak on the S shaped hose top of the air separator. Though that problem was solved till today CEL came on and read (using generic OBDII scanner) P1124-P1126, P0134 -cylinder 1-3 interruption of signal and P0154 cyl 4-6 interruption of signal. Also p1124 (maf :cursing: ). Will order the sensors (overnight delivery to do the job this weekend). Along with this I am also hearing an intermittent buzzing noise on the dash somewhere to the right. When it happens the idle speed takes a dive to almost zero. Do I have a short on the air bag or the sensor at the right under the vent? What else could it be and how to check them (other than putting my ear to the dash :wacko: or disconnecting them somehow to see if the noise goes away) -Noice comes at high speed or heavy traffic Any ideas would be greatly appreciated Rolando
  19. Rolando
    Brian, Not long ago I had a problem with my ignition switch. Whole lock replacement would cost ~$500 at the dealer ($170 for the part alone). If you want to replace the whole lock yourself you can buy it at Sunset Imports for about $80 (follow the link under "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost" on this forum). You can buy the black plastic German made switch in Autozone for $32 (local or on-line). You can also buy it in other on-line autopart shops for as low as $12 but they are made in china and some times don't last too long. <_< The replacement process takes about 15 minutes (if you are slow ;) )
  20. Rolando
    Boxster 98 90K miles, manual (desnorkeled /defoamed filter) :drive: Some weeks ago I got the CEL codes: P0102 (Mass Air Flow sensor- Below lower limit), P1124 (Oxygen Sensor adaptation area 1 [cylinder 1-3] -Rich Threshold, P1126 Oxygen Sensor adaptation area a [cylinder 4-6] -Rich Threshold). After replacing MAF P0102 went away. :rolleyes: Later I got CEL code: P0440 (Fuel Tank Ventilation System- above limit) Replaced fuel tank cap, CEL did not come up again. :thumbup: Currently still getting P1124 and P1126. I assume this is due to a vacuum leak (more air than the MAF registers). System runs lean so the sensors try to adjust but reach the max they can do –exceeding the Rich Threshold. I need validation with this assumption :unsure: please Also getting CEL code P1602 (voltage supply –open circuit) ~here I am lost …any ideas. :help:
  21. Rolando
    I bought it on :parts-on-line.net part #4A0905849B (CRP brand). Cheap in all sense of the word :(
  22. Rolando
    I need a new ignition switch for my Boxster 97 (the one that connects at the bottom of the lock cylinder). When I called dealer to get the part (the one that I bought on-line lasted only a month or so) I was told that the switch was changed in these cars so they only sell a new system that includes the lock cylinder. Does anybody know if this part was recalled? (this way I will not have to pay for the whole thing <_< ) Thanks
  23. Rolando
    My 2001 Boxster smokes briefly. Here is when : I start it to back it out the carport, turn it off, wash it. Start it to drive it back into the carport - lots of smoke. I use Chevron 94 octane. This is the only time is smokes. Should I worry ? Where do you live? I'm a chemist working for Chevron for 14 years and heven't heard of 94 octane for general customers in the US. Slick 50, asuming it does anything at all to the car (the company has been accused of false advertisement) its effect would be related to moving parts wear, will not fix worn parts. :beer:
  24. Rolando
    280 pages vs 670 is a significant difference that should very much account for the price difference $50-$100. $185+ for a downloadable one is absurd :) Thanks Richard for the warning.
  25. Rolando
    I agree that we should not buy a pirated copy but I also believe that the prices that are charged for these DIY manuals are plainly dishonest. So it is a question of choosing from which thief we buy :) I guess some may choose the cheaper thief.
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