Rolando

It runs very good with the exception of the idle speed which in a few occasions goes down then comes up again. I'll do as you suggested and also keep an eye on the codes I read to make sure I did not make a mistake when I wrote them down.

1998 manual I read the code with a (cheap) OBDII scanner, the booklet specifies: 1120 = throttle position (TP) sensor out of range low and I got the reading 0120 las week = throttle position sensor/switch A circuit malfuntion. Which DME should I use from the Porsche ODB-II P-Code Menu for a more specific definition? The readings appear at low speed or idle. Thanks for your help

I suppose I just change the Thottle valve. I have been very unlucky getting answers in this forum. I would doubt that nobody knows these type of questions. :unsure:

Hey, I WANT to be wrong on this! I had my 986 De-Snorked for over 30K miles and never saw a loss of MPG. I think I was the first to De-Snork a 987, which I posted here, and I loved the sound. It is clear that on both the 986 and the 987, the presence of the Snorkel does reduce sound, heck, I've been saying that for years. But, It also appears that the 987 Snorkel may impact more than just sound… I think the issue may be in the design of the intake area of the 987. There are many more angles and the air box appears to sit further back in the intake area than it does on the 986, which may factor into my results. The air that rushes into the 987 intake area may not be directed as effectively into the air box as it was on the 986, thus the assistance provided by the Snorkel tube in directing air into the engine may be more on the 987 than on the 986. I intend to do a Re-Snorked drive this weekend, then do a Re-De-Snorked run back to compare the results again. If the results are less dramatic than the 10 MPG gain I experienced, and I mean MUCH less dramatic, I would Re-De-Snork without a doubt. But if they are consistent, a 50% loss of MPG, I'd be crazy not to leave the Snork in place. Have any other 987 owners De-Snorked? If so, please tell what your MPG results have been. Kevin <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I de-snorkeled my 986 the same weekend I bought it so I don't know if my MPG is what it should be (I am at about 20 or less mpg including freeway and stop-go traffic) I also removed the foam from the filter ... it may be my perception but after doing it, the car seems to respond better (there should be more air flow withoult the foam and particles would not go though) I am interested in the results of your test even if it is a 987. -Good luck

The check engine light has come a couple of times this week, the code is 1120 Thottle valve signal implausible. Any troubleshooting info would be greatly appreciated (Previous codes 0102, 1124 and 1126 not comming after MAF replacement)

:beer: Solved problem of driver's door not opening from outside. There is a pin that connects the door handle lever with the lock action arm. The pin broke of just fell off. The solution was to attach them with a small screw and nut. (Thanks "adsach" to for the panel removal info) Attached is a picture of the handle from the inside. Hope this info can be used by others running into same problem. Rolando

Completely agree with you Gary, I had my two back tires repaired last week, the tire shop explained the proper procedure of plug + patch. #3 is what I ment when I mentioned a "well repaired puncture".

Modern tires are designed not to blow out even it they have a nail in them. The tire integrity should be better whith a well repaired puncture than with the nail in it. If we worry about a repaired tire we should be constantly worry about stepping on a nail and driving with it and should stop every few miles to check the tires. :rolleyes: Of course raising protocols are a different issue ... I can't imagine anybody paricipating in NASCAR with a patched tire. :wacko:

Thanks. The pictures and instructions are very good. I really appreciate your help. :notworthy: I bought the car just a few months ago and I am a little frustrated with three problems in less than two weeks. Good point on the Ferrari or Lotus analogy, but performance may be the only parameter valued by their owners. I would like to go to work and back home or take that weekend trip along the coast form Los Angeles to Santa Barbara without worring about geeting stranded on the road. :wrench:

Same unresolved problem of door not opening from outside. I'm starting to think that reliability with these cars is between a Ford and a Hyundai :( Well ... I guess they are still fun to drive. :drive: so throwing some money at them in a routine basis should be ok.

A diagram of the door/lock mechanism could help as well as instructions to remove the door pannel. Door also locks and unlocks with remote or key -meaning that two pools from the inside handle are needed when locked, one when unlocked. <_<

I'm also interested in one with the retrofited glass window for a 98. The plastic window folds in half, how does it work with the glass one? Can you show a picture with top in the service mode. :eek:

It's a V. Just want to be sure. I know many of next years models are made the previous year. What I don't know is if it's the MODEL year used or the MANUFACTURE year used (decoder states manufacture) . By the way, no airbags. Thanks anyway.. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I am also not sure of the year of manufacture and the year model. If you look inside the driver's door it states the full date of manufacture. Mine was manufactured on July 1997, decoder also shows "Vehicle Type Designation 98" also USA/Canada Body Type and engine so it could have not shown at a USA dealer earlier than September. Logistically it makes sense to be a 98 model unless Porsche engages in very bad marketing strategies (in the USA it is a common practice to start selling next year models as early as July-August). Maybe somebody with more knowledge can enlighten us. :rolleyes:

Yesterday I replaced the ignition switch (Boxster '98 90K miles). Key moves freely now and problem with starter keeping-on after engine starts seems to be solved. (Thanks deliriousga for your help :cheers: ) New problem: as soon as I reconnected the battery cable, the door on the driver's side does not open from the outside :unsure: Passenger door ok, driver side ok from inside, behabes like locked but can't be unlocked with the key or remote. I imagine that this is completely unrelated problem to the ignition switch - what could be wrong?

I'm also experiencing CEL problems on my 98, think it is the MAF. Where did you get the MAF at such a good price? (best price that I can find is $245) Rolando

I'll definitely start with the switch. I clenaed the lock barrel with W40 and got from lint to sand comming out. Key still hard to turn. I am ordering the switch asp. Thanks -I'll post how it goes. :)

I have a Boxster 98 with 90K miles. When I start the engine the starter operation does not end immediately when engine starts. The key on the ignition switch does not turn smoothly as it should, when I release the key form position 2 (start), it does not move back to position 1 (ignition on) so to prevent the grinding noise I have to move the key manually to the left after the engine starts. -Questions: can the cylinder be cleaned? (I assume the ignition cylinder is dirty) Does anybody have a drawing/diagram of the ignition switch? Replacing procedure? What things I should be aware when replacing the ignition switch (such as transponder sensors). The Boxster manual says that the first operation of the starter ends automatically when the engine starts; I guess I'll know if I have other problems after I clean or replace the switch. :help: Any help would be greatly appreciated