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I have a 2003 cayenne turbo and suddenly have been having issues with the drivers side door locking mechanism. I have no errors when checking with durametric. My problem is that when I open the door, the lock actuator gets stuck at the first click and I am not able to close to door because it hits the metal lock and I have to use my finger to pull it back into its starting position while either pulling on the inner or outer door handle. When the door is closed, I am able to open to door with the inner or outer handle but cannot close it because of this issue. I went through the steps. I tried the fix as noted in the link below about adjusting the locking mechanism but it made no difference. When it push the lock through both clicks, the outer and inner handles will not pop it back into its starting position and I have to do it manual will pulling on of the handles. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-diy/1069169-955-957-cayenne-diy-door-handle-s-inoperable-fix.html Could it be an electrical issue with the actuator and not mechanical since the handle will open the door?
I have a 2004 cayenne turbo with tune and few mods. For the longest time I have had issues which felt like timing being pulled and surging under boost. I did all the usually things checking for vacumn and boost leaks, etc. and could not find anything. About 2 years ago I had replaced the battery with a duralast gold lead battery and over the past couple months started getting issues with the battery being dead when it was cold out and I assumed battery was going bad. Even before the battery was dying, I was getting the surging issues. Strangely, everytime I would reset the DME from disconnecting the battery or through durametric, the car would run great with smooth acceleration and no surging. Unfortunately, it would only last for about 10 minutes and surging would come back until DME was reset again. I just recently replaced my battery with a duralast AGM platinum and all those driving issues went away and I have not had a problem since. I know that the cayenne is sensitive to weak batteries and weird electrical things can happen, but am I correct to assume that when the car is running, everything is powered by the alternator and independent from the battery, unless the battery still plays a role in powering certain things? Could the electrical signals for timing, boost, fuel etc be impacted by a bad battery. Also isn't the OEM battery an AGM and could running a lead battery cause issues.
I have a 2004 cayenne turbo with the option code 1K7 (rear disk brakes 17 inch red calipers) I was wondering if the larger rotors from the cayenne turbo s work with the caliper I have or is there a bigger caliper on the rear for the larger rotors on the turbo S. The porsche parts catalog lists different part numbers for the calipers for the turbo and turbo S so I assume that the calipers are different sizes or did porsche just use different part numbers for the same caliper but on different vehicles. My question is whether I can just install the larger rotors onto my existing calipers or would the upgrade (like the E81 powerkit) require other parts to make it work on my car.
mbagge01 replied to mbagge01's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Hey loren, I actually figured it out on my 2003 cayenne turbo. I tapped into pin 10 on my headlight switch which is the illumination wire for the switch.
I am installing a boost gauge and have found plenty of switch 12v fuses but cannot find one that only turns on with the lights on. I have one wire to the gauge that works as a dimmer. Anyone know where I could tap into a line that activates with exterior lights on.
I was hoping someone may have tips on how to search for a parastic battery drain on a 2003 cayenne turbo. I know that it can be difficult with vehicles that have CANBUS systems. I have had our battery go dead after just after a few days of not driving the car multiple times and the current battery (duralast platinum) is only a year and a half old. I am going to test the battery to make sure that it is not bad already but I wanted to also see if I could search for some electrical system draining the battery. My wife frequently does not lock the car when parked in the garage. Could electrical systems be running if the you do not lock the doors after parking the car. I also have an aftermaket alpine headunit and replaced all the interior lights with LED's.
I have a 2003 cayenne turbo that developed this sudden and intermittent coolant leak and hoping the wisdom of the forum members can give me some advice. The vehicle had the aluminum coolant pipes and replacement T pipes placed about 4 years ago. I replaced the coolant reservoir cap with part 1J0121321B about 2 years ago. My coolant reservoir is 7L0121407C which I am assuming is the original reservoir given the part number starting with 7L0. This last week, I took a couple long trips on the highway in 80 degree weather and upon arriving home today after a 3 hour drive, as soon as I got out of the car there was a sudden pouring of coolant from the behind the passenger wheel well. I went to remove the coolant reservoir cap and depressurizing the system seem to get it to slow down and stop but I did also notice a sudden drop in the coolant level in the reservoir. I filled the reservoir up and took it for another drive later in the day with the car at operating temperature and when I stopped the car again, some fluid at a slower rate started dripping again from behind the passenger wheel well, stopping by removing the reservoir valve. On both occasions, I looked under to hood and around all the reservoir hose connections and top of reservoir around its seal and did not see any obvious leaking or wetness. After doing some research on this forum, it has been suggested that it could be a bad reservoir cap or leaking reservoir. Could it be leaking on the underside of the reservoir that I cannot visualize or are there other coolant parts in this area that could be leaking when the car is shut off. I do not see any leaking with the car is running and the coolant gauge remains at the middle which I would guess means the water pump is fine. If it just needs a reservoir replacement, I can easily do that but don't want to just throw parts at fixing it if unsure of the problem.
glad to here lewisweller. At full throttle, both fuel pumps kick in so at some point you might consider replacing the right side also if you car has a lots of miles on it.
Lewisweller, make sure you check the vacuum line with the T connector which is hidden behind the intake manifold and connects exhaust lines from the turbos to the crankcase. Mine was cracked and fixing it did help.
Lewisweller, I would get looking around for a vacuum leak somewhere. I must have changed my spark plugs with different models 10 times and the car always feels great at first and then the problems resurface. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and resetting everything because that can help when new parts are installed
I did also find a tear in my divertor valve line to the solenoid which was not showing up on a boost pressure test but was occurring under vacuum. Also check the lines on the back of the intake which are hard to see. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
I reduced my spark plug gap to .026mm which was recommended by EVOM who I got my tune from. They recommend Denso Platinum TT plugs
It ended up being that I had a leak in the vacuum line going to the wastegates as if would not hold pressure when tested and also a leak in the boost control lines to the turbo. They were not massive leaks but when tested under prolonged pressure, they would not maintain pressure.
I bought both ballasts from a reputable company (not ebay) and they are genuine valeo (not stamped OEM porsche though). The strange thing is that the one ballast that throws the error still turns on the light and functions appropriately except for the dash error.
So, I seem to have found a fix to the headlight adjustment error I was getting but not entirely sure how to explain it and maybe someone on here might have some insight. I initially replaced both d1s bulbs and headlight control modules (ballasts) and was getting the error, but with both lights working fine. The new ballasts I placed had the same hardware and software part numbers, but different from the older ballasts that were in the car. I then went and changed the right sided ballast back to the old one and the error went away. When I placed the new one back in, the error returned. Given both ballasts are the same part number and turn on the light appropriately why would one of them cause the headlight adjustment error. Could it be an short somewhere on the internal wiring of the ballast causing the error or do some ballast require programming.