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Everything posted by mbagge01

  1. I have a 2004 cayenne turbo that was not pre-wired like later models. Has anyone ran the needed wires to connect to CAN system and fuse box and if you would have any guidance or wiring guide to do so.
  2. If it were to be a compression issue, would it result in an engine rebuild or are the other potential ways to fix it.
  3. I have a 2004 cayenne turbo and was recently noticing a rumbling in the car at idle. After ruling out motor mounts, I eventually had a CEL pop up as p0308 for cylinder 8 misfire and p0300 for multiple random misfires. I check durametric and found that I was getting misfires happening in cylinder 8 while the car was idling but when I would press the accelerator it did not seem to increase the misfire counter. I replaced the coils a few years ago and went ahead and check them all again and did not see anything wrong or cracks. I also change all the spark plugs at the same time. To rule out a coi
  4. I have a 2003 cayenne turbo and suddenly have been having issues with the drivers side door locking mechanism. I have no errors when checking with durametric. My problem is that when I open the door, the lock actuator gets stuck at the first click and I am not able to close to door because it hits the metal lock and I have to use my finger to pull it back into its starting position while either pulling on the inner or outer door handle. When the door is closed, I am able to open to door with the inner or outer handle but cannot close it because of this issue. I went through the steps. I tried
  5. I have a 2004 cayenne turbo with tune and few mods. For the longest time I have had issues which felt like timing being pulled and surging under boost. I did all the usually things checking for vacumn and boost leaks, etc. and could not find anything. About 2 years ago I had replaced the battery with a duralast gold lead battery and over the past couple months started getting issues with the battery being dead when it was cold out and I assumed battery was going bad. Even before the battery was dying, I was getting the surging issues. Strangely, everytime I would reset the DME from disconnecti
  6. I have a 2004 cayenne turbo with the option code 1K7 (rear disk brakes 17 inch red calipers) I was wondering if the larger rotors from the cayenne turbo s work with the caliper I have or is there a bigger caliper on the rear for the larger rotors on the turbo S. The porsche parts catalog lists different part numbers for the calipers for the turbo and turbo S so I assume that the calipers are different sizes or did porsche just use different part numbers for the same caliper but on different vehicles. My question is whether I can just install the larger rotors onto my existing calipers or woul
  7. Hey loren, I actually figured it out on my 2003 cayenne turbo. I tapped into pin 10 on my headlight switch which is the illumination wire for the switch.
  8. I am installing a boost gauge and have found plenty of switch 12v fuses but cannot find one that only turns on with the lights on. I have one wire to the gauge that works as a dimmer. Anyone know where I could tap into a line that activates with exterior lights on.
  9. I was hoping someone may have tips on how to search for a parastic battery drain on a 2003 cayenne turbo. I know that it can be difficult with vehicles that have CANBUS systems. I have had our battery go dead after just after a few days of not driving the car multiple times and the current battery (duralast platinum) is only a year and a half old. I am going to test the battery to make sure that it is not bad already but I wanted to also see if I could search for some electrical system draining the battery. My wife frequently does not lock the car when parked in the garage. Could electrical sy
  10. I have a 2003 cayenne turbo that developed this sudden and intermittent coolant leak and hoping the wisdom of the forum members can give me some advice. The vehicle had the aluminum coolant pipes and replacement T pipes placed about 4 years ago. I replaced the coolant reservoir cap with part 1J0121321B about 2 years ago. My coolant reservoir is 7L0121407C which I am assuming is the original reservoir given the part number starting with 7L0. This last week, I took a couple long trips on the highway in 80 degree weather and upon arriving home today after a 3 hour drive, as soon as I got out of t
  11. glad to here lewisweller. At full throttle, both fuel pumps kick in so at some point you might consider replacing the right side also if you car has a lots of miles on it.
  12. Lewisweller, make sure you check the vacuum line with the T connector which is hidden behind the intake manifold and connects exhaust lines from the turbos to the crankcase. Mine was cracked and fixing it did help.
  13. Lewisweller, I would get looking around for a vacuum leak somewhere. I must have changed my spark plugs with different models 10 times and the car always feels great at first and then the problems resurface. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and resetting everything because that can help when new parts are installed
  14. I did also find a tear in my divertor valve line to the solenoid which was not showing up on a boost pressure test but was occurring under vacuum. Also check the lines on the back of the intake which are hard to see. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
  15. I reduced my spark plug gap to .026mm which was recommended by EVOM who I got my tune from. They recommend Denso Platinum TT plugs
  16. It ended up being that I had a leak in the vacuum line going to the wastegates as if would not hold pressure when tested and also a leak in the boost control lines to the turbo. They were not massive leaks but when tested under prolonged pressure, they would not maintain pressure.
  17. I bought both ballasts from a reputable company (not ebay) and they are genuine valeo (not stamped OEM porsche though). The strange thing is that the one ballast that throws the error still turns on the light and functions appropriately except for the dash error.
  18. So, I seem to have found a fix to the headlight adjustment error I was getting but not entirely sure how to explain it and maybe someone on here might have some insight. I initially replaced both d1s bulbs and headlight control modules (ballasts) and was getting the error, but with both lights working fine. The new ballasts I placed had the same hardware and software part numbers, but different from the older ballasts that were in the car. I then went and changed the right sided ballast back to the old one and the error went away. When I placed the new one back in, the error returned. Given bo
  19. Lewisweller, what cord are you using to connect vcds to your cayenne. I have tried my durametric and vagcom cord and cannot access the control module. I am using the most recent vcds software on an 04 cayenne turbo.
  20. Loren, I changed the xenon control modules (ballasts) on both headlights. Does that require calibration if nothing else changes and can it be done with durametric. I have changed a ballast in the past with no issue
  21. I have the same issue and read that the error could be from one of the level sensors connected to the wheels, which can break because they inform how to aim the headlights if you are going up or downhill. That is going to be the next thing I check. I believe that there is a front and rear sensor.
  22. Those things are fine. I am going to check my headlight leveling sensors but would appreciate if anyone knew which wheels have them
  23. I just replaced my d1s bulbs and the ballasts and after a couple times on turning the lights on, I am getting the check headlight beam adjustment error. The lights move up and down as usual when first turned on. Do new ballast need to be calibrated? I also read that it could be my headlight level sensors on the wheels. What wheels are they located or do all 4 wheels have them. I do not see any modules in durametric that I can use to determine the error.
  24. Lewisweller, the passenger precat is very easy to replace compared to the drivers side. You can easily reach it with your hand from under neath the car. If I remember correctly, I used an angled ratchet socket with a long extension and from above and below helped to slide it on to the O2 sensor. Once you loosen the sensor, you can unscrew it from below with your hand and then place the new one.
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