mbagge01

glad to here lewisweller. At full throttle, both fuel pumps kick in so at some point you might consider replacing the right side also if you car has a lots of miles on it.

Lewisweller, make sure you check the vacuum line with the T connector which is hidden behind the intake manifold and connects exhaust lines from the turbos to the crankcase. Mine was cracked and fixing it did help.

Lewisweller, I would get looking around for a vacuum leak somewhere. I must have changed my spark plugs with different models 10 times and the car always feels great at first and then the problems resurface. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and resetting everything because that can help when new parts are installed

I did also find a tear in my divertor valve line to the solenoid which was not showing up on a boost pressure test but was occurring under vacuum. Also check the lines on the back of the intake which are hard to see.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I reduced my spark plug gap to .026mm which was recommended by EVOM who I got my tune from. They recommend Denso Platinum TT plugs

It ended up being that I had a leak in the vacuum line going to the wastegates as if would not hold pressure when tested and also a leak in the boost control lines to the turbo. They were not massive leaks but when tested under prolonged pressure, they would not maintain pressure.

I bought both ballasts from a reputable company (not ebay) and they are genuine valeo (not stamped OEM porsche though). The strange thing is that the one ballast that throws the error still turns on the light and functions appropriately except for the dash error. 

So, I seem to have found a fix to the headlight adjustment error I was getting but not entirely sure how to explain it and maybe someone on here might have some insight. I initially replaced both d1s bulbs and headlight control modules (ballasts) and was getting the error, but with both lights working fine. The new ballasts I placed had the same hardware and software part numbers, but different from the older ballasts that were in the car. I then went and changed the right sided ballast back to the old one and the error went away. When I placed the new one back in, the error returned. Given both ballasts are the same part number and turn on the light appropriately why would one of them cause the headlight adjustment error. Could it be an short somewhere on the internal wiring of the ballast causing the error or do some ballast require programming.

Lewisweller, what cord are you using to connect vcds to your cayenne. I have tried my durametric and vagcom cord and cannot access the control module. I am using the most recent vcds software on an 04 cayenne turbo.

The ballasts are oem. I have  vcds so I will check it as you have shown.

Loren, I changed the xenon control modules (ballasts) on both headlights. Does that require calibration if nothing else changes and can it be done with durametric. I have changed a ballast in the past with no issue

I have the same issue and read that the error could be from one of the level sensors connected to the wheels, which can break because they inform how to aim the headlights if you are going up or downhill. That is going to be the next thing I check. I believe that there is a front and rear sensor.

Those things are fine. I am going to check my headlight leveling sensors but would appreciate if anyone knew which wheels have them

I just replaced my d1s bulbs and the ballasts and after a couple times on turning the lights on, I am getting the check headlight beam adjustment error. The lights move up and down as usual when first turned on. Do new ballast need to be calibrated? I also read that it could be my headlight level sensors on the wheels. What wheels are they located or do all 4 wheels have them. I do not see any modules in durametric that I can use to determine the error.

Lewisweller, the passenger precat is very easy to replace compared to the drivers side. You can easily reach it with your hand from under neath the car. If I remember correctly, I used an angled ratchet socket with a long extension and from above and below helped to slide it on to the O2 sensor. Once you loosen the sensor, you can unscrew it from below with your hand and then place the new one.

If I did tap into the stock we ideband harness, would I not tap the heater lines so that an aftermarket system would not cause problems with the stock system

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From what i have been able to find out, the front O2 sensors are wideband and the post cat sensors are narrow band

After doing a little more research I found a very detailed answer. For anyone else who was wondering, read the 5th post on this forum.

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/920215-a-bit-of-955-ecu-electronics-info-reset-your-cluster-with-vcds.html

Does anyone know if our OBD2 connectors on the 955 cayenne communicate diagnostics through CAN protocol or is it through old K line transmission. I could not find a diagram if there are CAN high and low wires on this model car at the OBD2 port. I know that from 2008 on it is mandatory of all US vehicles but some older models could do it.

One other thing could possible be the check valves not functioning properly and letting boost pass by in the wrong direction.

I agree with JFP. Check all those vacuum lines at the back of the intake manifold. Also the one line I found snapped that caused similar symptoms lewisweller is the T-connector at the very back of the engine hidden down by the firewall that connects exhaust lines from the turbos and runs to the front of the engine and connects to the crankcase ventilation. It is a very common piece that can break and be overlooked when tracking down leaks.

The diverter valve solenoid is the N249 valve and is situated towards the back of the engine on the drivers side hidden underneath the rear engine cover. It controls how the diverter valves open to help control boost during acceleration and also to blow off backpressure away from the turbos between shifts. The N75 valve is the solenoid valve at the front of the engine underneath the silver engine cover that says cayenne on it. The N75 is what controls your turbocharger boost levels through the help of opening or closing the turbo wastegates . Ekstroemtj, through experience of tracking down boost issues, if it is not your coils or spark plugs, it is highly likely a leak in one of the boost or vacuum lines. The solenoid valves can but do not commonly fail.

I am thinking of installing a wideband air fuel sensor gauge. Is installation similar to narrow band O2 sensors in which there is a signal wire that can be spliced into the OEM sensors to get a reading on the air fuel gauge, or does it require installing a separate wideband O2 sensor.

So I just got the car back and everything is finally fixed. It ended up that the wastegate line from the turbos to the N75 valve, pressure line from turbo to N75 valve and the line from the diverter valve solenoid to the diverter valves had a tear in the rubber portion of it when they pressure and smoked tested the system . With all of them fixed, now to the car runs well and pulls strong. When I inspected the car before, I missed the rubber tear in the line to the diverter solenoid because if you do not bend the hose in a specific manner it was not obvious to see and it must have been coming open under pressure.

So they ended up replacing that wastegate line and they said that initially the car was starting hold a bit higher boost but then it dropped again and after they did some more pressure testing, they found problems with the pressure line from the turbo to the N75 valve. They are going to replace it, noting that it was very brittle and cracking. I hope that it will fix the problem.