mbagge01

I was thinking about the avant3 unit but given the unknown on when it would come out I ended up going with the alpine x108u with the 8 inch screen and alpines custom faceplate for the cayenne and the most hur, it looks great and has tons of features.

I finally brought the car to my local Indy and they found that the leaking coolant I found was coming from the water pump. They also separated the wastegate lines from the N75 and said testing the wastegates, they function normally but they noticed that the wastegate lines When checked independently, were not holding pressure so possible the problem. When they get replaced, hopefully that will fix the problem.

I run evom intakes, and ipd plenum. I have an inspection camera I will use to look around for the leak. Since I have a 5 psi boost drop, wouldn't that suggest a large pipe that is leaking? If I was getting such a knock to drop so much boost, should there not be a code that would come up.

So I went ahead and changed out the MAP sensor and diverter solenoid since I had extra ones and did not fix the boost issue. I also connected an air compressor to the wastegate line and at about 15 psi could hear clearly both wastegates opening. One other thing I will add that happened around the same time as the boost issues, I started noticing some coolant dripping somewhere from the front of the engine area onto the floor below, which I would notice when the car is parked. I have had my coolant pipes changed out but I am wondering if I might have a leak around the water pump. Is there any chance that a leak associated with the coolant system could in anyway effect building boost.

Lewisweller, how is the wastegate suppose to respond. It is suppose to hold a set level of boost with a mityvac like a diverter valve would hold vacuum with the mityvac or is an air compressor needed to create enough pressure to cause movement in the wastegate. My question is, with a mityvac, should a wastegate hold itself open with enough boost pressure built up or does the pressure just blow off when I pump the mityvac.

Lewisweller, I have not recently cleaned the MAP or MAF sensors but given these items are not more than a year old, I am optimistic that they are not the problem. I could log and see what is going on. I do have am mytivac that also creates pressure and I hooked it up to the wastegate line and I could not get it to hold any pressure when I was pumping it. Should pressure build up and hold with this method or do i need to use a compressor and  try to visualize when the wategates move? 

One other thing I will add is that I just checked the resistance on my diverter valve solenoid and my N75 turbo wastegate solenoid and they both read around 26 which from what I read is a normal range. I also had an extra N75 solenoid and changed it out with no difference. I might have another N249 valve I could try to see if that makes a difference.

Hey lewisweller, I had thought about that also and checked vacuum on both of my diverter valves and they hold solid without a leak. I did not find any obvious disconnection of boost hoses. My other thought was if the diverter valve solenoid could be going bad. Would this also present as a diverter valve failure and not holding the valves closed long enough.

I have a 2003 cayenne turbo and had a sudden issues where the vehicle went into a limp mode and the code pulled from durametric which was for low turbocharger boost. I reset the codes and now when I drive the car, it will not boost over around 10psi, which should not be the case given I have an EVOM tune on it, which will boost to around 14-15psi. I checked for codes again and nothing has come back up. It idles fine and it accelerates smoothly but with much less power. I am going to start looking for boost leaks, but if I had a boost leak that is dropping my top boost by almost 5 psi, shouldn't I be getting a code or having rough idle or abnormal acceleration issues. Could my turbos be failing? The vehicle has 78,000 miles on it.

In my 2003 cayenne turbo, I can get my memory seat and mirror adjustments to save between switching keys but every time I switch between keys, comfort settings like which doors unlock and horn beep with locking door do not save when I set it with one key and switch between them. Do comfort settings not save with other memory settings.

The part number for the crankcase line that I am referring to is 94810721552. It is the T connector that splits on it which is located behind the engine.

So I think that I finally fixed my surging issue. After further investigating, I found that the T connector at the back of the engine where the exhaust line from the turbos to the crankcase system was cracked in half so I had a large PCV leak, which never threw a code. I initially performed a temporary fixed with some cement glue and plastic connectors which helped the driving somewhat. I then decided to perform a proper repair and given its location behind the intake, I ended up going to route of taking off the intake manifold for better access. I also was able to inspect the vacuum hoses on the back of the intake and replaced some of them with silicone hoses along with replacing the intake manifold gaskets and the throttle body gasket. I also cleaned the throttle body thoroughly. As a word of advice, be careful when removing those old vacuum hoses on the back of the intake because I ended up snapping off one of the plastic ports and the back of the intake and had the carefully glue it back of. After all of these repairs, I can't say 100% what repair actually cured the issue but I have a feeling it was the crankcase line that was wide open due to the T connector being broken, which apparently is a common issue with this car. Now with my EVOM tune, the car drives like a beast and finally I have found resolution to the problem.

Lewisweller, in regards to the O2 sensors, I have replaced all 4, but what was interesting is that when I logged with durametric, if was telling me that I have demonstrating very long injector opening times. I had the fuel system checked for appropriate pressure and the fuel pumps and filter have been replaced. Would some kind of a vacuum or boost leak cause injector timing issues. As you had mentioned, there is definitely something related to it occurring more once the vehicle has warmed up.

What is listed is not even the extent of parts I replaced and I am a little embarrassed to admit doing it because I know better than to just throw parts at it, but one thing led to another and I just headed down a rabbit hole thinking that I found the source of the problem each time. I believe in regards to pulling the dipstick is that if there is a leak, you should not see a difference in idling, and will if there it not.

lewisweller, I went ahead and bought the Porsche boost tester kit and when I pressurized the system, air was flowing out of this cracked pipe at the back of the engine. I have already replaced the N75 valve, map sensor and MAF sensors, coils and spark plugs along with diverter solenoid with no improvement so I am going to drive some more to see if fixing the crankcase vent  leak helps fix the problem. Everything I reset the ECU, even before the fix, the car would drive great for about 10 minutes until the studdering would occur which would make me wonder if the car starts adapting at some point to a leak.

After further driving, it was not the spark plugs causing the problems as it kept coming back. Today I did some pressure testing and low an behold, I found that the T-fitting at the back of the engine for the crankcase was completely cracked apart and wide open. I did best I could of a fix to reconnect it back together and so far the car seems to be running better but I will give it more time before I can confirm that. I do have a question in regards to when this crankcase line is cracked open. Can it cause surging like issues during heavy acceleration. Idle seems fine and mild acceleration seems fine but going under WOT was giving me problems. Can a leak in the crankcase cause such a significant issues but not give me any CEL codes?

I am having an issue where my comfort settings in my 2003 cayenne turbo keep getting reset when i switch between my 2 keys. If I stick to one key it stays programmed. I have read some older posts that I either need to update my convience module or get a new one. If I find an updated one, does it require porsche to program a new module to the car or will it just work

Thanks, but it does not actually explain how to remove the small arm rest that I am trying to do.

I need to replace the arm rest that folds down in the middle of the back row of seats as you can see in the picture but not sure how it can be removed and replaced. Does anyone happen to know how to do this?

When I use durametric and hit the erase fault codes and reset the adaptation under the engine tab, does that perform the same thing as when I disconnect the battery to reset all the learned engine parameters

One other thing I was wondering is if there are any hidden vacuum lines under the intake manifold the could tear from heat

So I replaced the airboxes with the stock setup and still the surging problems that occur about 10 minutes after resetting the dme. I am suspicious for maybe a vacumn leak at one of the hoses on the back of the intake as they are the only ones I have not check. Is it possible that a vacuum leak may not manifest itself with problems driving after resetting the dme until the dme has a chance to start adjusting the seeing errors in air fuel ratio from O2 sensor

I am about to install the stock intakes to see if that helps but I just have the drivers side right now. If I install it and leave the evom intake on the passengers side, will the car drive fine or will it cause air fuel issues between the two banks.

I have a 2004 cayenne turbo and trying to find a new passenger side airbox. I have seen some for the cayenne S. Does anyone know if the airbox is the same for the turbo and cayenne S.

I have a 2004 cayenne turbo with evom tune, newest revision coils, spark plugs, fuel pumps and filters which acts strangly when warmed up. When car is cold, it drives great and pulls hard under WOT. Once engine is warmed up, the car drives fine under mild and moderate acceleration but under WOT, my aftermarket boost gauge reports that pressure build up to expected 14-16 psi range but the vehicle either starts shuddering under boost and feels like there is no power when accelerating. On rare occasion it goes into limp mode but after about a minute is fine. I have checked durametric multiple times and there are no codes. My suspicion is something electric is going on when the car heats up. Solenoids maybe?