mbagge01

I just got mine for $980. I heard one person say they got the full amount.

I ended up replacing all the coils to the newest ones and replaced to denso platinum spark plugs recommended by EVOM with stock OEM beru plugs and car runs perfectly now. I think it ultimately was the spark plugs

With all the coil revisions that porsche has been through, is there any evidence that the new revision coils .21 have a stronger spark or are more durable made?

On my 2004 cayenne turbo with EVOM tune, I have been having stuttering under high boost with CEL coming on and codes reading out as misfires on 3 of the 4 bank 2 cylinders. My first guess is spark plugs or coils. I run revision 09 coils and Oem spark plugs that I gapped to .030. I am assuming that coils or spark plugs are going bad but would it be unusually that it has only happened on one bank of the engine. My plan is to replace all coils and spark plugs with upgraded revision ones but should I be looking for something else since this focused to one bank. Also should I be fine keeping the plugs at the recommended .032 gap with a tune.

It is not too hard. Just remove the headlight and turn the ignition on followed by putting the parking lights on. The use a voltage tester and check which wire on the headlight connector is positive when the parking light switch is on.

I just tapped into the headlight wiring harness to the wires that turn on the sidemarkers

I followed those instructions but my cap wound not pop off. It would just wiggle back and forth when twisting it with my hand. Does it require a lot of force to remove or did you use any special instruments.

I just bought that diaphragm off eBay, but I have had a he'll of a problem trying to get the black cap off. If you are able to replace it I would be interested in how because I followed the instructions on pelicanparts but it did not come off as described for me.

The best fuel I can get in Portland is 92octane which I use. If I am loosing just small amounts of air from that pipe that exits the turbo and connected to the intercooler, which is pressurized air, could that small amount of air lose be enough to throw off the air fuel ratio and cause timing to be pulled as this would be air lost that would be expected to be still there that was measured when it initially came into the system at the MAF. Also could it be that if it was a small leak it might not necessary cause much drop in boost pressure. I know how these cars are very sensitive to extra air or lose of air in the system, even if small when the ecu is making precise calculations for air fuel. My car does not read out any codes.

On my 2004 cayenne turbo with evom tune, I notice that my timing is being pulled under heavy boost and car feels like it has no power but it reads proper boost. I found that the drivers side intake pipe to the turbo has some play in it, which is likely a bad o-ring which I plan on replacing. Could I be leaking air from this area, and enough for the car to be pulling timing under boost. I have already replaced all the other obvious issues like coils, spark plugs, fuel pumps, etc.

Does anyone make largers intake manifolds for the 955 and are there any benefits to upgrading the manifold or throttle body in the 955

I am curious as well if there is a problem and if the new numbering scheme are actually better coils

How do you check resistance on them (the pins at the elecitric connector) and what would normal resistance be for them

Tune not tube

Is there something wrong with these coils why they are constantly being updated. I have the 09 version and have a tube on my car, sometimes getting hesitation on acceleration. Should I update my coils. I do not get any cel codes.

I was just looking at getting some new coils and noticed that yet another new part number has surfaced (94860210421). Didn't the version 20 coils just get released. Is there something wrong with the cayenne coils why the keep getting upgraded.

I have a question for anyone who has performed the E81 conversion on a 955 turbo cayenne. I have a 2003 cayenne turbo with tune and larger intercoolers and wanted to find out if the turbo S intake and throttle body is a direct bolt on to my car, or are there special modifications needed.

I was interested to get thoughts from the forum on if there is any benefit to replacing the aging vacumn and boost lines with silicone hose.

From further research I have been doing, my understanding is the 7L5 extensions are VAG parts numbers while the 955 extension are Porsche part numbers. For instance the parts on my 955 cayenne turbo are labeled with 7L5 extensions while looking in the PET catalog, all the parts for this car have 955 extensions, so I was trying to figure out what the comparible part numbers are.

Does anyone know if there is a program or website that shows the compatible part numbers to the old 7L5 part numbers to the 955 part numbers.

I have replaced my shifter with a carbon fiber one, but the issue I am having is that every once in a while, when I press the button on the front of the shifter to engage a gear, it will pop in and the shifter will get stuck and won't move. I then have to pull it off and try to slide it back on to get it to work again. Could something be wrong internally with the shifter why the button keeps getting stuck?

The reason I ask is that with the vagcom software for Audi/Vw vehicles, I can monitor the expected boost requested by the software and also see that actual boost that is being recorded by the boost pressure sensors, so it helps to determine if I am loosing boost somewhere.

Does anyone know if there is a way to check actual and expected boost levels with durametric, to see if a boost leak might be present, but not enough to throw a code

Loren, is this a procedure that can be done from underneath the car with extension wrenches. Is there a lot of parts that need to be removed to replace the primary cats

I am curious about this also. I am considering putting larger primary cats in, and leistung on there website states that the porsche book time is 120 minutes per side. Does it require dropping the engine? Is this something that could be taken on as a DIY with special tools.