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Tom M

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Posts posted by Tom M

  1. On my 2000 S I've got a situation where if I intentionally stop quickly I will get a smell of gasoline inside the passenger cabin that clears rapidly if the windows are down. It seems to be worse when there is less gas in the tank so it would seem to be related to sloshing. If I stop slowly there is no noticeable odor and the problem is definitely repeatable.

    So far I have replaced the fuel tank top sealing ring (no change) and pulled the wheel liner (no obvious spots that are leaking but there is a bit of gas odor.) All of the lines look like they are in good shape. There are no codes other than what were related to a recent AOS replacement. I recently filled up the tank so the problem is harder to reproduce right now and by the time I get stopped and out of the car to check the wheel well area there's no real odor left.

    I'm trying to avoid just throwing money at the problem or else I'd take it to the dealer. Hopefully I can get a few suggestions as to the most likely causes and/or things to check so the problem can be approached in a more methodical manner.

  2. Recently, when braking firmly and the tank is at least 1/2 full there is occasionally a smell of gasoline that enters the cabin. I've tried to determine if it's also noticeable externally but am unable to tell as it may dissipate too quickly.

    Seems like it's probably a bad valve or hose but not sure which is the most likely culprit.

  3. That looks like Rivera Blue that has long been a Porsche favorite. I think it first became popular many years ago when Porsche was using very bright solid colors they refered to as "Gum Ball" colors. They included Red, orange, green, blue, yellow, white and black. I think if you research it further it is Rivera Blue, paint to sample, a special exclusive option.

    Blue Turquoise and Rivera Blue (Smurf Blue? :D) are very similar but they are different colors. You can see samples of both on Yoseif's Boxster Gallery. Blue Turquoise was only offered in the Boxster during the 1997 MY according to the Boxster FAQ. It's not a Boxster only color though as it was also offered on the 993 during the same time frame.

  4. I think it is important and wouldn't defeat it. As well as a start interlock, it is used to kick cruise control off without over revving. Turn up the stereo, roll down the window.

    Really? On the Boxster the clutch interlock is separate from the cruise function (one happens at the top of the clutch travel while the other happens at the bottom). I've had mine ty-wrapped for 6 years with no problems - and no clicking ;)

  5. What it's really coming down to is that the dealerships are taking a hard line on only using Porsche Approved products. My guess is it's to avoid liability issues. I fell into a similar situation on my Boxster a while back when the dealer had to go out and buy a can of Super Blue to top things off after they replaced a caliper under warranty. The reasoning (at least this is what I was directly told by the Service Manager) is that since the product hasn't been approved they don't know what problems it will cause years down the road. Go figure.

    It's now gotten so absurd that some dealerships will only install Porsche Approved 'N' rated tires.

  6. I had this situation on my Boxster several years ago and it was caused by a pinched wire that was shorting out when anyone sat in the seat. The factory had apparently routed one of the wires between the cushion and the metal framing. When the insulation finally wore through after a couple of years it started to blow fuses depending on the load on the seat. Fortunately, mine was still under warranty so I had the dealer resolve the issue.

  7. I need new brake pads & rotors for an 02 S with 51k miles, & an annual service too.

    Any recommendations for an independent shop (or dealer) in the San Jose/peninsula area? I've been using Stevens Creek Porsche, but can't say I was very satisfied last visit there.

    Thanks

    Tom

    If you really want to visit the dealer another option is Fremont Porsche (formerly Claridge's). It's still the same service staff and it seems like quite a few people come away happy.

    You can read reviews on the Babblers Recommendations page if so inclined.

    They've hosted several car care related events and will be doing so again in late September. The new ownership does seem interested in working with the local clubs to build a positive relationship. To top it off, they also have a new sales manager - from Stevens Creek.

  8. Yes I am talking about the interior anti-dazzle mirror on a 987. On the 987 the pin assignments are not labeled, and there are no striped wires on the wiring harness... just solid white, black, gray, yellow, and brown. On the aftermarket mirror for 986/996 they are at least labeled as 12V, IL, GND, RI, +0, -0. Any way for me to tell which is which?
    For what it's worth, on a 986 they are;

    A1 - TERM 15 (BK/OG)

    A2 - TERM 31 (BN)

    A3 - BACKUP SIGNAL (BK/BU)

    A4 - ACTUATION + (YE)

    A5 - ACTUATION - (GN)

  9. Sounds like it could definitely be a balance issue. Balance issues tend to exhibit themselves as speed dependent and have harmonics. On a smooth road do you feel any vibration around 40-45MPH? One other thing - does the shop have a Hunter 9700 wheel balancing system? Sometimes a tire can be perfectly balanced but due to a property called "road force" it may not feel like it's balanced. The Hunter system can detect this and compensate for it.

  10. There are plenty of topics about changing gauge faces etc. but I didn't come across into instructions how to take the whole cluster apart in order to access the bulbs which illuminate the analog gauges.

    Anyone?

    I've got a complete write-up with lots of pictures on removal and disassembly if the instrument cluster at http://boxsters.addr.com/hacks/cluster.htm

  11. The whistle from the fuel filler door area is getting progressively worse. I had this fixed once under warranty about 3 years ago. Now that I'm out of warranty I may tackle this myself. Has anybody replaced one of these? The part is about $50 but the dealer labor estimate is 1.5 hours at about $135/hr.

    It seems like all that would be needed is to pull the right front wheel and liner to gain access to the work area. Any tricks on R&R for this like disconnecting the battery or depressurizing the fuel system?

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