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There's a DIY over on rennlist that covers the process. It's for a 2011 turbo but the plug swap is basically the same. The biggest point to note is that getting to the rear plugs requires a swivel extension. I also bought a plug socket when I did mine to make sure I had one that was the right size. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-diy/928643-958-cayenne-diy-replace-spark-plugs-on-a-2011-turbo.html It's not a difficult job but also take note about dropping some of the screws as the positions to get to them in/out can be awkward to say the least. I recall dropping one of mine and needing 10 minutes and an inspection camera to find it.
FWIW I used various flavors of Ravenol when I changed the fluids on my TC and diffs. The next time around I'll use the Porsche branded fluid for the TC but I picked it up for $38 shipped. You can find deals if you search. For my Transmission I used Febi 29934 @ ~$10 per liter. There's a long DIY on rennlist which discusses fluids and cross references for the AT as well as all the other parts needed to do the full service for the AT. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-diy/1018243-958-cayenne-diy-changing-atf-fluid.html
For the parking brake you can use the iCarScan to read the actual values to see if they are in the correct range. If they are out of spec then you can perform a calibration process using the iCarScan as I did on my 2011 CS a while back.
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Sorry. ALLDATAdiy.com. It's a subscription online manual and runs about $20 per year once you locate a discount code. No programming needed in my case as I made sure I purchased the same physical part number. The used one I bought was actually off a Panamera but the actuator itself was the same mfg number. I did need to swap the cables as the Panamera uses different lengths. They may now have knock offs available on eBay, though when I bought mine all they had were replacements for the previous generation.
I had an actuator that failed on the right rear door. At first it was intermittent and the door would sometime lock and others not. It would always lock with the door not physically closed but with the latch in the closed position. I finally gave up on it and bought a used replacement actuator as the iCarScan also said it was a bad actuator. Problem solved. It's a DIY to do the replacement but I really relied on ALLDATAdiy to get it done as there's lot's of steps to replace the actuator and some are not obvious.
The only thing I had to do after getting mine installed was to go into the TPMS screen on the MFD and reselect the tire settings. They then picked up the correct tire pressure on the drive home.
No real change in driving going on so I don't think that's it. It'll happen, for example, when I'm just starting out after backing out of a parking space or shortly thereafter. It's happened on an off ramp while just coasting to slow down and then using the brakes with no other cars around. It's also happened on the highway just flowing with traffic and needing to slow a bit due to traffic slowing a reasonable distance ahead. Try as I might I have not been able to reproduce at will nor can I correlate it with any specific activity.
I installed new rotors and pads on my 2011 CS just over a year ago and also flushed the brake fluid. At that time I switched to ceramic pads to help reduce the dust and knew they wouldn't have as much bite (or dust) as the stock pads and I was OK with that. Over the course of the year the brake pedal became a bit softer but they would bite firmly once in a while. Last weekend I flushed the brakes again and the softness is gone but they do still seem to have more boost at times. I've checked the vacuum pump at the secondary port and it's got plenty with no leak down after the engine is turned off. I don't think it's anything major as no codes are being thrown so I'd tend to rule out a faulty brake booster. The other possibility seems to be a faulty check valve but I can't find any information or part numbers for a replacement if that's indeed what the problem is. Looking for any additional ideas or the check valve p/n.
Indeed it was. You can also use the search by vehicle to find what works and if there's any question you can give them a call to confirm. I've got no affiliation with the site other than being a satisfied customer.
I used these and had the local Discount Tire install them for $20. No programming required and they work fine. http://www.tpms.com/Huf_IntelliSens_RDE011_Set_p/uvc0011set.htm
My recollection on this from when I hardwired my V1 was that the clips deformed when pulling down the assembly. It was necessary to bend them into the correct shape again for them to provide sufficient holding force. I found this by carefully examining how they latched in and it was clear that the shape was incorrect when pushing them back up. Look closely at the clip and what it latches onto and you should see what I'm talking about.
This was originally posted on rennlist but never received any replies so I thought I'd try mu luck here. I picked up a Draw-Tite hitch for my 2011 CS during the 20% eBay coupon sale the other day as the price was just too good. I likely won't need a controller right away but in looking at which controller would be needed it is, needless to say, a bit confusing as to which will work. What I'm seeing is the current version is 7P0-907-383-G. It appears the the original version that came with the MY11 is 7P0-907-383-B and there seems to also be the 7P0-907-383-F for the VW/Audi variants. There are quite a few of the B/F versions available used. I know the G version will work but will either the B or F versions also work w/o any issues? I've looked around a bit but can't find any place that documents what the changes are between the various revisions.
In doing my water pump I'm also replacing the serpentine belt. I'd like to replace the tensioner pulley/roller as it is lightly grooved, however the roller is no longer listed as a separate item on the 958. There's really no reason to replace the entire bracket so will the 957 roller assembly work (p/n 9A1-102-212-00 )? If not, is there another direct replacement?
Don, I've read about them on multiple places and may add some JB Weld since I've got things apart currently. I just need to pick up the hi temp flavor. On the plus side, mine looks to be in good shape with no indication of movement so adding the JB Weld may end up like wearing a belt with suspenders, but there's no real harm in doing so.
Ho Loren. I'm talking about this step... There's no indication as to how much force is required to extricate the thermostat from the housing. It should just be held in by the gaskets at this point so I would think it would come out w/o too much effort - maybe 10-20 lbs of pull. Guess I'll pull harder. ETA: The answer is to indeed pull harder. Takes quite a bit to get it removed.