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Tom M

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Everything posted by Tom M

  1. I'm sure you already know this but some leaks won't show up until things reach operating temps. This is especially the case if it's any of the glued joints so you may want to retest if the cold test comes up blank.
  2. As Loren said, I wouldn't be looking to change the coolant necessarily. I would, however, be actively looking for the source of the leak. There are multiple possibilities of which some are the water pump, the thermostat housing with the glued in pipes, glued connection at the rear of the engine, etc. All of these can drip onto a warm engine and lead to the telltale odor.
  3. Recommended, yes. Necessary, no. The existing plugs can be cleaned and new sealant applied. I used a wire brush and some cleaner to remove the old sealant and then put some Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant on them. I picked mine up at Amazon but your local parts store probably carries it as well. As noted above, be very careful when tightening the plugs so as not to crack the case. I used the correct size hex key and did it just snug as opposed to a larger torque wrench.
  4. There's a DIY over on rennlist that covers the process. It's for a 2011 turbo but the plug swap is basically the same. The biggest point to note is that getting to the rear plugs requires a swivel extension. I also bought a plug socket when I did mine to make sure I had one that was the right size. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-diy/928643-958-cayenne-diy-replace-spark-plugs-on-a-2011-turbo.html It's not a difficult job but also take note about dropping some of the screws as the positions to get to them in/out can be awkward to say the least. I recall dropping one of mine and needing 10 minutes and an inspection camera to find it.
  5. FWIW I used various flavors of Ravenol when I changed the fluids on my TC and diffs. The next time around I'll use the Porsche branded fluid for the TC but I picked it up for $38 shipped. You can find deals if you search. For my Transmission I used Febi 29934 @ ~$10 per liter. There's a long DIY on rennlist which discusses fluids and cross references for the AT as well as all the other parts needed to do the full service for the AT. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-diy/1018243-958-cayenne-diy-changing-atf-fluid.html
  6. For the parking brake you can use the iCarScan to read the actual values to see if they are in the correct range. If they are out of spec then you can perform a calibration process using the iCarScan as I did on my 2011 CS a while back.
  7. Sorry. ALLDATAdiy.com. It's a subscription online manual and runs about $20 per year once you locate a discount code. No programming needed in my case as I made sure I purchased the same physical part number. The used one I bought was actually off a Panamera but the actuator itself was the same mfg number. I did need to swap the cables as the Panamera uses different lengths. They may now have knock offs available on eBay, though when I bought mine all they had were replacements for the previous generation.
  8. I had an actuator that failed on the right rear door. At first it was intermittent and the door would sometime lock and others not. It would always lock with the door not physically closed but with the latch in the closed position. I finally gave up on it and bought a used replacement actuator as the iCarScan also said it was a bad actuator. Problem solved. It's a DIY to do the replacement but I really relied on ALLDATAdiy to get it done as there's lot's of steps to replace the actuator and some are not obvious.
  9. The only thing I had to do after getting mine installed was to go into the TPMS screen on the MFD and reselect the tire settings. They then picked up the correct tire pressure on the drive home.
  10. No real change in driving going on so I don't think that's it. It'll happen, for example, when I'm just starting out after backing out of a parking space or shortly thereafter. It's happened on an off ramp while just coasting to slow down and then using the brakes with no other cars around. It's also happened on the highway just flowing with traffic and needing to slow a bit due to traffic slowing a reasonable distance ahead. Try as I might I have not been able to reproduce at will nor can I correlate it with any specific activity.
  11. I installed new rotors and pads on my 2011 CS just over a year ago and also flushed the brake fluid. At that time I switched to ceramic pads to help reduce the dust and knew they wouldn't have as much bite (or dust) as the stock pads and I was OK with that. Over the course of the year the brake pedal became a bit softer but they would bite firmly once in a while. Last weekend I flushed the brakes again and the softness is gone but they do still seem to have more boost at times. I've checked the vacuum pump at the secondary port and it's got plenty with no leak down after the engine is turned off. I don't think it's anything major as no codes are being thrown so I'd tend to rule out a faulty brake booster. The other possibility seems to be a faulty check valve but I can't find any information or part numbers for a replacement if that's indeed what the problem is. Looking for any additional ideas or the check valve p/n.
  12. Indeed it was. You can also use the search by vehicle to find what works and if there's any question you can give them a call to confirm. I've got no affiliation with the site other than being a satisfied customer.
  13. I used these and had the local Discount Tire install them for $20. No programming required and they work fine. http://www.tpms.com/Huf_IntelliSens_RDE011_Set_p/uvc0011set.htm
  14. My recollection on this from when I hardwired my V1 was that the clips deformed when pulling down the assembly. It was necessary to bend them into the correct shape again for them to provide sufficient holding force. I found this by carefully examining how they latched in and it was clear that the shape was incorrect when pushing them back up. Look closely at the clip and what it latches onto and you should see what I'm talking about.
  15. This was originally posted on rennlist but never received any replies so I thought I'd try mu luck here. I picked up a Draw-Tite hitch for my 2011 CS during the 20% eBay coupon sale the other day as the price was just too good. I likely won't need a controller right away but in looking at which controller would be needed it is, needless to say, a bit confusing as to which will work. What I'm seeing is the current version is 7P0-907-383-G. It appears the the original version that came with the MY11 is 7P0-907-383-B and there seems to also be the 7P0-907-383-F for the VW/Audi variants. There are quite a few of the B/F versions available used. I know the G version will work but will either the B or F versions also work w/o any issues? I've looked around a bit but can't find any place that documents what the changes are between the various revisions.
  16. In doing my water pump I'm also replacing the serpentine belt. I'd like to replace the tensioner pulley/roller as it is lightly grooved, however the roller is no longer listed as a separate item on the 958. There's really no reason to replace the entire bracket so will the 957 roller assembly work (p/n 9A1-102-212-00 )? If not, is there another direct replacement?
  17. Don, I've read about them on multiple places and may add some JB Weld since I've got things apart currently. I just need to pick up the hi temp flavor. On the plus side, mine looks to be in good shape with no indication of movement so adding the JB Weld may end up like wearing a belt with suspenders, but there's no real harm in doing so.
  18. Ho Loren. I'm talking about this step... There's no indication as to how much force is required to extricate the thermostat from the housing. It should just be held in by the gaskets at this point so I would think it would come out w/o too much effort - maybe 10-20 lbs of pull. Guess I'll pull harder. ETA: The answer is to indeed pull harder. Takes quite a bit to get it removed.
  19. I'm in the process of replacing the water pump on my 2011 CS due to a failed bearing and am also going to replace the thermostat since I'm in there and the car's got 99K on it. I've followed all the steps on the AllDataDIY site but the thermostat doesn't want to budge. Yes, I've removed the cable plug so nothing should be holding it in except the gaskets. I guess the question is how much force does it take to actually pull it out? The repair guide doesn't give any clue and I don't want to just yank on it if something is holding it in.
  20. I just had this happen to my 2011 CS w/95,800 miles yesterday on the way home. My first thought, when I started seeing all the warnings pop up, was the variocam bolts let go. Fortunately it smoothed back out after I pulled off. I read/cleared the codes with my Durametric when I got home and all was fine on the way into work this morning. Based on the research I'm betting on it being a coil starting to go bad. The local dealer wants twice as much as mail order so I'm hoping things will last until a replacement coil gets here in a few days.
  21. Some additional information... I set the system to open all doors today at lunch instead of the driver's door first and it unlocks and disables the alarm just fine. I then reset it back to unlock the driver's door and the alarm stays active until the 2nd push. My Durametric is not able to read the door module for some reason (never has so that isn't new) so I'm guessing there's an error there someplace. At least I've got a workaround for now.
  22. This just started the other day on my 2011 S. When I unlock the car using the remote the interior alarm stays active and goes off when I open the door. If I unlock all the doors using a double-push the interior alarm shuts off and I can open the door with not problems. I verified this by watching the indicator LED on the door while standing next to it. A single push unlocked the door and the light changed to a slow blink. Re-lock it and do double-push and the light goes out. I checked for codes using the Durametric and the only thing to show up was (1538/602 & 1539/603) under the CAN section. These are the same ones I had when the head unit was out for repair about a year ago so I don't necessarily think they are related to the current problem. No other codes/faults were reported when running the Durametric short test and I cleared the faults last night. I just reran the Durametric short test after driving in to work this morning and there were no failures. However when unlocking the car the interior alarm stays active with only a single press of the remote. A double press unlocks all doors and turns off the alarm. This is based on observing the indicator in the door. Anybody have suggestions on what to check next?
  23. I just did my oil change (about 3K early) and my Durametric reset the reminder to 10K with no problem. The only reason i changed it early was so I could get back on to a nice even 10K interval. I had about 7K on the oil and will have about 6K at the next change. But that will then get me to 80K.
  24. I bought a Durametric and it's showing a couple of faults on my 2011 Cayenne S. Searching hasn't uncovered anything so I thought I'd post here to see if I can get clarification on what these might be prior to just clearing them and seeing if they come back. CAN Gateway 1538 / 602 1539 / 603 I'm guessing the above could be due to having removed the PCM for repair and driving the vehicle but not really sure. HVAC 3277300 / 3201f4 Still working through a couple of issues with Durametric as it hangs when processing the airbag. They've been helpful and fully expect things to be resolved after providing quite a bit of feedback. I also had a P0456 but replacing the fuel cap, which no longer clicked when putting it back on, took care of that.
  25. If you're looking for a writeup for doing just the pads there is this over at rennlist. It has excerpts from the manual. http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/622488-brake-pad-procedure-for-2011-cayenne.html
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