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jcam

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Everything posted by jcam

  1. Loren, I don't have the equipment to read the fault codes and will likely have to tow the car into the shop to get the codes read.
  2. It's a 996 TT that turns over and catches briefly then shuts down....I'm thinking fuel pump?
  3. I have 429,000 on my 911SC, though my 996TT is at 120,000 and suspect that unlike the 911SC it's going to need a lot of help making it to 300,000
  4. Guys, sorry about the delayed response. Spoke to the mechanic today and he didn't recall the numeric portion of the fault code and said that the description of the code read "misfire". He also said that the problem has been fixed and that it was a broken cam lift bracket and that when the car was attempting to shift into a higher lift cam, it was causing the "misfire reading".
  5. When the check engine light came on, my mechanic plugged the car into his laptop and got a misfire reading. Since the car was not due for a plug change, he attributed the misfire to bad gas and drained the tank. That didn’t fix the misfire light from coming on and he accordingly changed the plugs. After changing the plugs the misfire reading still appeared which led to changing out the coil packs. That didn’t fix the problem either, so he borrowed an ECU from another TT and put it in my car…NADA. We’re currently scratching our heads wondering what is causing the problem. Anyone else experience this?
  6. Way cool...though these rats would probably eat that too.
  7. While the engine is out for the coolant fix, my mechanic spotted that the wiring harness had been chewed up by a rat. He says he gets about 6 cars a year in that get chewed and it's the second time it's happened to me. After the first time traps were laid though unfortunately the car is left under a covered car port at night and I live at the base of some mountains so there's no shortage of varmints in the neighborhood. So, I'm thinking of encapsulating the electrical harness in a wiremold product....
  8. Thanks Loren, The fix itself isn't a problem, I trust my Mechanic's solution in that JB Welding will get the job done. I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to get around the issue of access to the part and was able to snake the fitting back into the casting without having to drop and dismantle the engine? One of the castings is easier to get to and only requires removal of the alternator. The casting in question requires about 15-20 hours of labor to get to.
  9. The car is an 02 Turbo X-50 and has a coolant hose with fitting that has popped out of a cast metal block located on the right hand side of the engine. This cast metal piece has an aluminum male sleeve fitting that is glued, yes glued into the cast metal block and wherein a rubber coolant hose clamps over the other end of the aluminum male sleeve. Apparently the glue holding these two parts together commonly fails and Porsches fix for this problem is to replace the cast metal fitting with the same part and NOT to re-insert the aluminum sleeve with a more permanent solution, such as JB Welding, common welding or brazing. While I normally would not have an issue paying the cash to replace a part with a new one that fixes the original design problem, in this case, if the car were repaired by Porsche standards, I would only be replacing a broken part with one that will soon be broken. My mechanic has been ignoring Porsches recommended fix for some time and has been JB Welding the two parts back together. However, in this case the problem is access and in order to either replace the part per Porsche or JB Weld it back together, the engine has to be dropped and the upper portion of the engine removed just to get to the part. This involves about $2,500 of work to fix a $10 problem. Since this appears to be a common problem, does anyone know of another way of sliding the male fitting back into the cast metal block without dropping the engine? Your input is appreciated.
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