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Posts posted by bar10dah
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Following JFP's recommendations (listen to him, smart guy, knows an awful lot on troubleshooting these cars), I can let you borrow my fuel pressure tester. But, you'd have to drive 70 miles south to pick it up. :) Or, since fuel prices are so high, just spend about $40 and get your own.
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Starting out small, have you inspected your gas cap o-ring?
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Can you get at the manual release cable (if it's still there) that's tucked under the passenger(?) side wheelwell liner?
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1) the airbag light is more than likely on, so just move the car to where you need it to be
2) buy yourself a Durametric so you can reset it
3) or go to the dealer and pay them to do it
4) or find a friend with a PST, PIWIS, or professional Durametric and have them reset it for you
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Closed and holding a vacuum at the charcoal cannister is just a guess. From reading the Bentley manual, it appears that valve opens up at certain times to purge the fumes from the cannister, so it appears that it's normally closed. And, I think this takes place when the car is running. I'm not sure what it does when the car is off.
Yes, get under the car. When you jack up the driver's side rear wheel, you can see the three tubes that run down the engine/cabin firewall. I think it was the center tube. It is easier to get to if you remove the wheel and the wheel well liner/air dam that's in front of that rear tire.
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I didn't. I just ran the new line next to the old. The bolt that holds the line to the intake manifold is too difficult to get to, so I just left the old line in place and will install it properly the next time I do a throttle body cleaning.
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Still getting the higher Range 1 & 2 readings.
For the first few months, P1124 and P1126 wouldn't come back for a long time. But now, the codes come back sooner and sooner. They seem to be associated with prolonged idling. The more I idle, the quicker they come back. Usually, I only get P1126. Occasionally both. Wondering where I should look next?
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When you say "starter switch" are you talking about the ignition switch? The ignition switch would be my first guess. If you've already ruled that out, not sure where I'd go next.
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Okay, will try that first. Hope I can find it in a local auto parts store.
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I ended up fixing it myself with a $2 bike cable barrel adjuster.
Post #19: http://986forum.com/...ched-cable.html
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Mine is doing the same thing. Binding and making an awful sound. I'm wondering if adjusting the inboard/outboard adjustments at the bottom of the door will help alleviate some of the pressure between the glass and the outer weatherstrip? Anyone have any ideas?
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Ref post #6 above,
If I adjust #1, will that alleviate some pressure between the glass and the outer weatherstrip? Appears when the window goes down, it pulls on the weatherstrip enough to make it flex inwards, and makes an awful rubbing sound. So, sliding the lower regulator attachments outwards, I can reduce the angle of the glass and pressure on the outer weather strip?
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I like to take a 'casual' trip up Yarnell just to scope it out. Look for hazards, speed traps, etc... Then, go back down, and go up again, much more 'spirited' this time. :)
Can you attempt the repair on your own? Are you mechanically inclined?
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... dont leave degrading comments on how i should have had it inspected better. I had been talkin to the guy constantly for a month and it had all seemed like a solid deal.
Not a degrading comment but, you could have been talking to the guy for 10 years, it wouldn't have mattered. Talking to someone that's trying to sell a car isn't worth having a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) done.
All your symptoms point to different problems. The problem with the top appears to be either a bad connection somewhere, or a bad switch. Just to be sure, when trying to put the top up, your parking brake was on? Was the brake light lit up on the dash board?
As far as the car stalling, could be a myriad of problems. We'll need more info. Could be vacuum related, especially since the you also report a brake problem, which could be a problem in itself, or a brake booster vacuum problem.
But first and foremost, did you scan the car for DTC codes? Take it to any autoparts store and they should be able to check it for free. When you turn the ignition on, does the check engine light (CEL) momentarily light up, then go out?
Since you're on a trip, you probably don't have the time to devote to troubleshooting your car. Your best course of action may be to take it to a reputable independent mechanic that specializes in Porsches. Not just any Joe Schmoe mechanic. Or, take it to the dealership. Otherwise, if you've got the time, post your questions here and we'll try to walk you through troubleshooting your issues.
If it's too hard to find a good mechanic, and you don't have the time to spare, I suggest renting a U-Haul/trailer and hauling 'er home. Once in your driveway, you'll have much more time to devote to troubleshooting your car. Sure beats the alternative: driving a car wiith an unreliable engine, no a/c, and possible brake problems, through the desert southwest, in August...
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Steve,
Look at post #91 here. I had to fabricate a really long extension in order to get to that 5 mm hex bolt. I did mine on the ground, but I think it's easier with the car on a lift. Very easy to strip the bolt. It's also held in place with threadlock. So clean it up first, take your time, and use a quality hex head socket. If you do strip it, the Grabit tool also pictured worked really well in getting the old bolt out.
Search for crank position sensor and you'll probably find other methods and pictures on how to remove it.
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Now, when I close my door, I don't hear that thud when the window smacks into the convertible top's frame. :)
But now, I hear it on the driver's side... :cursing:
But thanks to the search function, I was able to find info on my problem. Appears my window regulator is worn out. I'll order it later this week and will be back in business in a week or two.
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One way to help pin down the cause is to see if, after the window goes all the way up, you can press the top of the window down and get a resultant downward move of a fraction of an inch. If it's solid as a rock, it may not be the regulator. If it moves down a little, it's almost certainly the regulator.
Thanks Maurice! :)
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Blitzkrieg, if you're still around, what was the result after calling the dealer on their window regulator "pricing" practices?
Appears my window is doing something similar. Opening the driver's side door of my '99 Boxster, from the inside/outside, the window moves just a bit, but doesn't drop down like it should. I can push the window down slightly, close the door normally, and the window does go back up all the way. Same thing when I keep the door open and push the door latch closed manually, the window moves up as it should. Just doesn't drop down much, if at all.
I guess a new window regulator, 996-542-075-04, is in my future...
Thanks search feature, for helping me find this thread!
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So could be the coolant expanded and is pouring out of the overflow. Or could be you have a cracked/loose hose around the area of that leak. Hard to say. Try to get under there and have a look around.
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Yes, distilled water works. However, are you sure you can make it to the shop before too much coolant leaks out? You don't want to risk overheating your motor.
My guess, based on the info you provided, is the coolant reservoir is cracked. Do you have coolant under the carpet in the trunk?
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My guess is the crank position sensor. Search for that term and you'll see why that's my guess.
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Fuel system nightmare! My Boxster used to run so well...
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
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Ah crap, I just noticed you did check for fuel pressure already. Sorry. Thought I was helping.
If you can't figure it out, I read some other folks had good experiences at http://momentummotorworks.com/.