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Everything posted by bar10dah

  1. I've done it. It sucks. The intake plenum needs to come out. If you're mechanically inclined, should take close to a hour to get to the check valve. Then after remove/replace, take another hour to get it all back together. When I removed my check valve, the insides were rusted and corroded. Air blew both ways, so no longer a "check valve." Pain in the butt, but after replacement, and blowing out the lines, never had 0446 come back again.
  2. Awesome! Glad to hear it all worked out. Great pic... ;)
  3. Did the dealer do the TSB? How has the car been since?
  4. Haha! Yep. Thanks for all the help you've given me through the past couple years. I've definitely appreciated your experience and willingness to give advice.
  5. When I had the 1124/1126 codes, I replaced the upstream O2 sensors, the valve by the throttle body, the valve on the EVAP canister, the two valves on the SAI system, the AOS tubes (even the AOS), all the 4mm vacuum lines, the vacuum canister (I broke it), IACV (and associated gasket), the oil filler tubes, gas cap w/ o-ring, oil cap w/ o-ring, dipstick o-ring, and tightened/retightened all the connections on the intake system. Might have been more, but can't remember right now. I didn't mind throwing parts at the problem because it was a 13 year old car and probably needed those new parts anyways. But none of it fixed my codes from reappearing. I eventually sold my car due to leaving the country for a while (don't worry, I'm not on the run...). I definitely disclosed the problem to the new owner, who was happy with my honesty, and bought my car and associated problem. I threw in an Actron code reader so he could verify those were the only two codes in the system and could reset the CEL whenever they reappeared. I still don't know what caused those codes. But it didn't affect power and it didn't affect mileage. And the codes would only appear after idling for five minutes (one of the emissions checks, but can't remember which one). Seriously, I did a 700 mile drive one day and the codes never reappeared. But as soon as I got off the interstate and had gone through a couple traffic lights, the codes came back.
  6. Is the 2006 order guide available online? Link, please? :)
  7. Ah, JFP beat me to it. Doesn't matter, he responded in the attached link as well. ;)
  8. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/656631-intake-manifold-bolt-torque.html
  9. this is your "Best Answer." All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage. While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue.
  10. No worries! Sometimes we get so frustrated with our machines, we forget not to be too harsh with our loved ones who don't know anything about the mechanics of how machines work and unintentionally just drive them into the ground. How's Casa Grande? I did a quick landing at the airport there sometime around 2007, but didn't stay long. That place just exploded over the last several years! I remember seeing a huge shopping area had sprouted up right next to the 10. Phoenix slowly expanded out that far yet?
  11. And, don't be too hard on your wife. She didn't want to be stranded away from her destination any more than you wanted her to not drive it the rest of the way. ;) Hope you get it figured out and it's not as bad as it seems.
  12. If one end of that line is connected to the resonance flap valve, then the other end connects to green in both pics. I PM'd you. I'll try to help more tomorrow.
  13. Okay, these are my guesses. Someone that actually has a 4-way splitter system can give you better advice. I can't tell in the pic if it's connected, but that black/white valve needs to connect to the throttle body sleeve. More specifically, the black side of that valve connects to the sleeve and the white side to the 4-way splitter. The blue circle in the second pic should connect to the pink in the second pic. In the first pic, it's the blue to purple. Green in both pics should go to the switch that controls the resonance flap. I really can't tell what the red is in the second pic. Is that the same as the yellow in the first pic?
  14. Oh wow, yeah. Much different than my setup. Let me look at the pic for a bit and I'll respond back.
  15. Looking at your picture again, I may be wrong. It appears that valve where the blue and the green are is probably your switch for the resonance flap valve? Which, is probably under the driver's side manifold? I'm seriously having a hard time visualizing this. Which direction in the picture is forward? It appears, using the chart in post #3 of the link to Pelican you provided:The black dome thing in the bottom right of your picture is F.The black/white valve to the right of the purple in your picture is H.The switch with the blue and green is probably J. Find K and you'll see where to connect green to. If that switch is truly J, then connect blue to purple. I really can't tell what the red is. A better picture of it may help. And neither the yellow. What does the other end connect to?
  16. It's been a while since I had my head in a Boxster engine compartment. I just can't seem to remember that line marked in red. If I remember, I'll reply back.
  17. Does diagram in post #12 here help? Blue goes to purple. Green goes to the valve that's under your passenger side (if your steering wheel is on the left) intake manifold. <EDIT: This may be wrong, as you've stated you have a four hose splitter, instead of the three.>
  18. Most folks on race tracks zip tie the intact connector up/out of the way. Or, you could replace your brake pads before they wear down the wear sensors. You'll just have to be meticulous on checking brake wear so you can catch them before the sensors are worn through. :)
  19. Nope, never did find the source of my codes. I ended up selling the car. Not because of the problems, but because I don't need a car for a while. I fully disclosed the codes to the new owner and told them the troubleshooting stuff I've done so far. They were much appreciative.
  20. Where is it binding up? Before spending money on a pedal assembly, ensure you figure out what exactly the problem is. First place I'd check is at the throttle body. Make sure the cable didn't slip off to the side there. If so, the butterfly valve won't open when you press the throttle pedal.
  21. Just based on your descriptions, I personally would buy the first one. It's a newer model, slightly bigger engine, not many more dollars than the other two, comes from a reputable dealer. Of course, other factors come into play. But just based on your post, I'd pick the first.
  22. It's under the right front wheel liner. It's easier to pull the wheel liner out if you just remove the wheel. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41644-evap-canister-valve/?hl=evap
  23. Yep, as far as I recall, the whole center piece rotated 180 degrees on the newer "upgraded" mount. The tabs need to face the same way they were originally installed, to prevent metal to metal contact. Sure you could trim to fit, but I just forced mine on and they fit fine. :)
  24. When you order an AOS, it comes with the bellows and the clamp (w/ the blue contraption that holds it in the open position. I'm surprised your last AOS didn't come with the bellows. Were you getting P codes associated with a torn bellows?
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