bar10dah

Never thought about that, thanks Logray!

Clamping the hose won't do permanent damage? What did you use for a clamp?

Over the weekend, I did a 340 mile round trip. Not to mention the couple hundred miles I put on my car prior to my road trip. I didn't have a single code, either set or pending, when I returned. So, when I got home, I parked in my driveway and let her idle for five minutes. When I went back out and checked for codes, I had P1124 and P1126 pending. So, my air leaks must be related to when the EVAP system is doing it's pressure/leak checks during idle.

Back to the original codes. :)

My new thought is that maybe I'm leaking air into my intake system via the rubber hose that plugs into the throttlebody, which is the outlet port for the EVAP canister, and identified by #14 in the pic below.

So, now to determine which valve could be the leak. That valve that's on the end of line #14 there, which "should" be a one way valve, flowing towards the throttle body? Or is it the valve that's actually connected to the top of the EVAP canister? Or another valve in the EVAP system? What would be your logical guess?

Yes, *could* be a fuse. I've read up a little on this problem. I can't remember if it was a fuse or a relay, but some folks said the problem was with the fuse or relay that's in the trunk? You'll have to pull one of the carpets to get to it, just can't remember which one. Does your spoiler switch on the kickpanel work? When you click it up for 2-3 seconds, the spoiler should fully extend.

Another thought, you can try to find any loose bolts on your exhaust system. I've done an awful lot of reading through threads about my problem and see that sometimes a loose exhaust component can cause air to leak into the exhaust stream and throw off the O2 sensor. Just a thought.

Doubt Montreal has an emissions requirement, so independent shops up there may not have a smoke machine, but that's what you need. Call around to a few shops that do emissions type work and ask if they have a smoke machine.

Down here in Alabama, where we don't have an emissions inspection, I went around looking for a smoke machine, and most shops told me they've been working on cars for over 40 years and never needed a smoke machine. Not sure that answered my question, but I said thanks and I left...

My local Porsche dealer does have one. And when I get around to it, I'll be bringing my car to them to help me find my leak. I've been all over this car, replaced all the suspected parts, and I still get P1124 and P1126 codes.

Since you're only getting one code, it could mean your problem is only on one side of your engine. So more than likely, it's an air leak somewhere after the air diverter (splitter that leads into the intake manifolds) and before the O2 sensor. That code is telling you the O2 sensor is reading a very lean condition, and your DME has enrichened your mixture at it's maximum limit, while the car is at idle.

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Range 1 (cyls 4-6), range 1 means "at an idle state" and cyls 4-6 are on the driver's side of the engine.

I'll drive 700 miles on the highway and not get my CELs. But I'll drive 15 miles in the city, and get my CELs. Appears your code, P1126, only gets set when you do any prolonged idling.

I will check the fuel pressure asap, is there any DIY For doing this?

You can start with post #19 here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32106-code-p1124-p1126-p0446/

I followed those links Logray posted, bought the right equipment, and tested my fuel pressure pretty easily. Somewhere further down those posts, I even put up links for where I bought my fuel tester (and adapter) from. Also, I believe the second link Logray posted in #19 says you can pick up an A/C tester that'll have the correct adapter for the fuel pressure tester port.

The resistor must be soldered in. On one end is the connector, on the other end was the resistor, and in the middle, two leads came off and goes into the back of the fan and must be soldered into position. And in saying such, the old resistor must be desoldered out. Kinda hard to explain, I should have taken pictures...

My fans all work now! :)

Replaced the fan resistor today. Both sides, both high/low, now all work! :)

Rick3000, whatever came of your problem?

Replaced the IACV. No change. Replaced the two rubber intake manifold boots and upper AOS tube. We'll see.

Radiator fan resistor came in, but haven't had time to install it. Appears it must be soldered into place? Two bare wires has solder on them.

Also, went to replace the crank position sensor. The 5 mm bolt was stripped. Sheesh... Tried to use an easy-out, but it wouldn't catch. Ran out of light, so I'll try to finish this some other day.

Good to hear Logray! Glad you got your problem licked.

I wasn't as fortunate. A new IACV did not change anything. My short term trims are still over 0.30. Back to square one.

I ordered a new upper AOS tube and both air intake manifold rubber boots. Those are the last two items that I can replace in the air intake system. Next step will be to go back to the Porsche dealer to have them hook my car up to the smoke machine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/538577-boxster-project-93-brake-pedal-clutch-pedal-switch-replacement.html

Instructions, pictures, even a link to order the parts.

No, no smoke machine. The only one I could find locally was at the Porsche dealer. When I took it in, the tech said, without hooking up the machine, he could hear a hissing sound under the passenger side intake manifold. From the diagram in post 12 of this thread, the tech said it could either be #10 or #15. Swapped both out. #15 appeared okay. But #10, a one way check valve, was corroded and blew air both ways. Post 15 shows that valve. I haven't taken the car back since replacing it.

I wasn't able to remove that brass pin in the IACV. I think I'll just order it from that place you recommended and see how it does.

In troubleshooting my issue, discovered my passenger side radiator fan's resistor is possibly bad. Ordered one from Sunset Imports today. Sheesh, if it's not one thing, it's another. ;)

Since cleaning my IACV, and driving 45 miles, I haven't had a CEL. Checked w/ Durametric and no pending codes. Also checked my Range 1 fuel trims. A lot better than before, but still too much air.

0.11 Range 1 Cylinder 1-3 (TRA)

0.18 Range 1 Cylinder 4-6 (TRA2)

In regards to the question about having an OBDII reader plugged in to constantly read sensor values, I use a ScanGauge. I don't track my sensors that closely, but I do occasionally look at it to see what the car's doing. Really, I started leaving it plugged in lately because of an air leak (which in itself is a whole other topic...) causing my CEL to come on. I have it there so I can reset the light when I need to. But, if someone was looking for something that reads the engine sensors, this device surely does the trick. And, there are several mounting options out there for it. Recently, I saw one that mounts the device right below the rear view mirror. Others mount it somewhere and somehow to the dashboard. Just FYI, for anyone that's interested.

Appears my passenger side resistor is faulty. Used Durametric to activate the fans (didn't have an option for low/high, as some posts suggested) and only the driver's side came on. Swapped both low speed fan relays and the problem didn't follow the relay. When the car got hot enough, both high speed fans came on. So definitely got to be the passenger side resistor.

Thanks for the info and pics in this thread! They all helped for me to make this determination.

Sheesh! Randy_K, how in the heck did you get at that crank position sensor?! I'm having a tough time getting my hands/tools into that tight spot. Even with the passenger rear wheel removed...

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Those numbers look normal.

Really? Pins 1-2 shows 19.1 and the link you provided said a normal reading is between 14-17. Since I'm 2.8C above the normal testing temp, could it be that far off and still be good?

There is a ground point right near the sensor, a bunch of brown wires going into a ring terminal bolted into the side of the head.

Is there a way to test the ground of pin 2 when the sensor is off the car? I know ideally the ground needs to be made with the car, but where on the sensor does the ground "ground" to the car? Or, am I checking the ground of pin 2 on the wiring harness? If so, then I'm getting ~73 ohms.

What really made mine smoother, even though it is bad, was to remove the little brass pin, then twist the unit apart.

At that point you can really clean it, inside and out. Then twist the magnet back onto the solenoid and then put the pin back in place.

But if it doesn't pass the electrical tests, I would probably replace it (fyi, best price currently is autohausaz.com). NO affiliation.

I tried to clean mine like you did yours. I wasn't able to get that brass pin out. So I just filled with throttle body cleaner, shook it up, let it sit for about 3-5 mins, drained, repeated two more times.

I then took readings again across pins 1-2 and got 16.4 this time. Then I took a reading across pins 2-3 and got 18.2. Now, within the tolerances from the link you provided. But, just barely.

What's the torque value for the IACV security hexs? Want to make sure I torque this thing down right so it's not a possible cause of air leaks, since I'm still trying to find my main source of air leaks.

And since I'm already in the engine bay, I tested my crank position sensor because of an occasional hard starting problem I've been having. I wasn't able to get at the crank position sensor. I just can't seem to get a hex w/ extension to line up properly on what I'm guessing is 5 mm? So I went at it from the other end, the connector. Got that out and free. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I should be able to test this thing while it's still in the car?

0.961 ohms between pins 1-2 (from another thread, should be between 0.8-1 ohms at 20C)

open between pins 1-3 (from another thread, should be infinite ohms, which means short, right?)

So, appears my crank position sensor is faulty. Unless, I'm getting an erroneous reading since the sensor is still in the car.

Mine is the opposite as yours, Logray. My idle usually starts ~800, slowly climbs to ~1k, then drops back down to ~800.

Testing my IACV at 22.8C, my pins 1-2 show 19.1 ohms.

So, mine may be leaking too much air into the system, where yours wasn't leaking enough?

Also, can you check that your idle air control valve is clean and ohms out properly?

Maybe because the long term trims are farily normal, your IACV is opening wider than it should due to a failed or failing open winding...

Here's how to test it with a multimeter (last several posts):

http://www.renntech....7-new-cel-codes

at 22.8 degrees celsius:

19.1 ohms Pin 1-2 (from the link above, should be 14-17 ohms at 20C)

17.5 ohms Pin 2-3 (from the link above, should be 16-19 ohms at 20C)

How do I check pin 2 to ground? Since I have the part out, I tested it from pin 2 to the sleeve where the bolts fit, as that would be where the sensor gets it's ground reference from, but it shows as open.

Just to note, when activating the IACV with Durametric, I can hear it clicking every second or so.

Wow, that IS pretty cheap!

It's worth testing. I did remove it and cleaned it a couple months ago. I'll pull it out again and ohm it out.