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Hello, I'm wondering if anyone knows how many Carerra White 996 GT2s were sold in the US from 2002-2005. I have been told 5 and 12, but I don't have any data confirming either. I performed a search, but found nothing. Any information provided would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Scott
Problem solved. It seems that the nut that holds the engine to chassis ground wire in place (located on the passenger side of the car near the valve cover) had come off...causing the ground wire to move on and off the chassis ground bolt. I replaced the nut, and now all is well. I just drove the car for 2 hours and voltage is consitently maintaining just under 14 volts while driving (like it should) and the car starts and runs great again. Thanks for all the help, guys. That was a huge PITA.
Update: While driving, when I turn to the right and create centrifugal force towards the Driver's side of the car..the voltmeter jumps from 12.4 to to 13.8 volts. It will remain at 13.8 volts as long as I'm turning right with enough speed to create noticeable centrifugal force (i.e., while on a on or off ramp). It doesn't do it when I turn left, only right. I assume something is pinched or loose. Any ideas?
I'm going to re-charge my battery externally and try it again. This is so unbelievably frustrating. If my alternator is putting out 13.6-13.9 volts..why the heck is my battery not charging to that level even with all accessories off?? Maybe both of my new batteries really are bad and Autozone's testing equipment is wrong. Arrghhh.....
It's reading 60 mA. I think my draw is occurring with the engine running. Either that, or the remanufactured Bosch alternators really suck.
I have the stock sound system. The only other electronics I have in the car are an Electronic Boost Controller and V-1 radar detector. Both of which had for a couple of years and have never had any problems with. I checked the current draw with the car off, and it was 60mA no matter what fuse I removed. I then removed the nut where the alternator, battery and starter wires meet in the engine compartment, removed the alternator wire from the bolt...and the draw was 50mA. It was a negligible change so I don't think that's the issue. I'm not sure how to check my current draw with the engine running other then using a current clamp...which I don't have. I have read that sometimes the immobilizer will draw current from the car and resetting it will fix the problem. I simply unplugged the wire, then reset the error code using a Durametric cable.
History is my crank pulley backed out during a drive. After I replaced it, I started having charging issues. I assumed that the serpentine belt quickly coming off the pulley is what caused my stock alternator to go bad. I replaced the crank pulley bolt and the serpentine belt and everything is fine with that. I then began having charging issues so after some troubleshooting, replaced the alternator with a refurb from PP and got a new Optima battery from AZ. Charging issues still remained so I replaced relays, batteries (got a 2nd Optima battery), ignition switch and reset the immobilizer. I've checked all of the heavy power/negative cables that I can and haven't found any that are dirty, damaged or have bad connections. I then removed the "new" alternator and Autozone bench-tested it...it failed. I sent it back to PP, they sent me another one..and this one is currently putting out a consistent 13.6-13.7 volts. When the alternator sends voltage to the battery, the battery shows around 12.6-12.7 volts. But it doesn't always seem to send power to it. IRT the batteries, I have a Odyssey battery that I had Autozone check yesterday, It passed. So I have brand-new Optima red top that I got from Autozone and a brand new Odyssey that I got from gotbatteries.com. They are both good. They have plenty of juice to start the car multiple times after they have been charged. It's when I drive the vehicle that they begine to lose power. I just went for a long drive and tried turning off different accessories to see if I can identify one that is drawing a large current load. I'm unable to narrow it down that way. I did some checking before I took the drive, and when the car is not running, I have equal voltage between the battery, alternator and starter. One thing I did notice during the drive...is that when I'm idling at stop lights or sometimes when I'm just cruising in 6th gear at a steady speed, the alternator stops sending power to the battery. I can watch my voltmeter in my dash drop from 12.4 to 11.7 or so. Then, if I step on the gas, it will jump back up to 12.4 Only under a load does it start charging again. So if I do have a current drain, the alternator doesn't supply enough voltage to the battery to keep up. It cycles on and off and just isn't "on" enough to keep up. So I'm starting to think that Autozone was wrong wheh they stated that I didn't have a current draw. I think I do and it seems to draw only when the engine is running. I'm going out to check for a current draw now. I'll let you know what I find out....
Okay, thank you. I just returned form Autozone where I had my battery bench-tested. It passed. So, are the below steps what I should do next? 1. Charge the battery with an external charger, let it sit....and then measure the voltage. If more than 12.4-12.6 volts... 2. Connect the battery to my car, leave the engine and all accessories/lights off (close doors and set alarm)..and then measure the voltage in an hour or so to see if there is a drain with the engine off. 3. If no drain, start the car and measure the voltage from the alternator and then from the battery terminals again. If the battery continues to drain.... .....what is my next step? Thank you very much for the help.
Okay, this part confuses me. Are you saying that anytime the battery is below 12.6 volts, the alternator won't charge it? Meaning, for example, if I left my headlights on for a couple of hours and the battery drained down to 10 volts...driving my car would not recharge the battery after I got it jumpstarted like other cars would? Cables are all good. Clean, with no broken wires or corrosion at all. They look like new. Thanks.
More info: When the car was idling, I had 13.8 volts coming from the Alternator, but only 11.6 volts coming from the battery. The battery started out at 13.0 volts when I first fired the car up. The battery voltage was quickly dropping with the A/C, radio and headlights turned on.
I'm having an extremely frustrating charging issue that I can not figure out. My alternator is putting out 13.7-13.8 volts, but my batteries continually die when I drive the car. Autozone tested the electrical system and said that there are no electrical drains (not sure how accurate that test is, though). This problem has been going on for almost 2 months and I can not figure it out. What I've done so far: -Replaced stock alternator with remanufactured Bosch units from Pelican Parts TWICE. (first alternator failed Autozone bench test, and I received a replacement from PP today). -Replaced battery twice. Have tried (2) brand-new Optima Red tops. -Replaced ignition switch. -Replaced all relays, including starter relay. -Reset immobilizer. What else can I possibly check? If anyone has any ideas, please share them. I'm going insane right now. Thanks. Scott
Thanks Loren. I'll check the whenI get home. But is there also one on the back of the radio like ebaker mentioned? I've always seen radios that had another fuse other than the one in the fuse panels on other cars.