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TimEuler_73214

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Everything posted by TimEuler_73214

  1. Turns out the supossed VIN I had was a part number to the radiator !! Go figure. But it gets better. That same number is on the title to the vehicle as the VIN. How that got transposed who knows. But it is there plain as day. I went back to the car and the real vin is 9288102297 Hey you dont have to be smart to own a Porsche right ?
  2. Thanks very much I just posted there as well. I do have a picture of the VIN and verified it and as I stated it looks correct. Thanks for your input
  3. I am thinking about purchasing a EURO 928 which the owner says is a 1978. All of the research I seem to be able to do is stating the VIN is a 1980. Can someone give me a definitive on the VIN? It is 928 106 023 15 Your help is Hugely appreciated. Tim
  4. Thanks so much for your dedication to helping Porsche Nubes like me... Bless You
  5. OK..just finally got to the car. The tube that is broken is the one shown in your picture. It is the first one on the lower left that is circled and looks like a U or a macaroni. Where does this go and is there a part number for it? Will your tutorial work for me to access the location it needs to be?
  6. Thanks for the reply. I am now just trying to figure out where the tube connects to the engine. I know where it is connected to the check valve above the Alternator I need to know where the other end goes.
  7. This picture I found in your tutorial shows the location of the tube. There are three tubes on this Grey Switch. 2 are very obvious. There is another tube connected to this switch. It isnt shown because it is underneath of the switch and heads directly to the front of the car. That is the tube I broke in half. Consequently the tube also came disconnected from the top of the motor. It is a very stiff plastic tube. Does this help?
  8. THANK YOU.... I will get in there and take a picture. I need to purchase a DTC reader and will let you know. man you are great..Thanks so much.. I am just afraid that I have to drop the engine to plug this thing back in again.
  9. Thanks so much...Is there a diagram of the tube routing and the locations for the connections. I am not experienced with what part is what part based on the names you used? Sorry for the ignorance on the part names. I have been a DIY mechanic for a while but I do better with diagrams. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Tim
  10. Can you please help me with how to do this. I was changing my Alternator and broke the thin hard skinny tube that came from the Vacuum Swithchover valve that literally sits on top of the alternator. IT runs from the valve to the top of the motor somewhere. I am trying to figure out where this goes??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Part Number or numbers also since I broke it in half and need to replace it. Since you replaced all of them the part numbers would be great. I have a 2000 996 cab 6 speed
  11. Hello everyone. It is with great joy that I can thank everyone for the information regarding an Alternator swap on my 2K 996 Cab 6 speed. However when I was going through the swap I broke a very thin tube that connects to the vacuum switchover valve and runs toward the front of the car. I cant tell where it connected or what this part actually does. It has become disconnected from the top of the motor. I started the car and it runs fine. I drove it around for a while and all has been well. However this am the CEL came on. I am assuming this has to do with this thin tube that has become disconnected from the top of the motor. It is literally the thickness of a coat hanger and it is very hard plastic. I would love for someone to tell me the location of the connection on top of the motor and what the part is and part number and lastly how do I get to the connection point on top of the motor?. Thanks for looking and helping. Tim
  12. Today I was driving my 996. All of a sudden 6 or 7 dash lights lit up...CEL, ABS, Battery, yellow triangle, PSM (Turned off) Break wear and possibly one more. The car ran perfectly well. No noticeable issues at all driving. Now I did notice my battery gauge which always runs at a constant 14 dropped to 11 and has stayed there. The lights all went away after 3 minutes and have all remained off. However the battery which is 3 months old has stayed near 11. I immediately turned around and drove the 6 miles back home. I do think by the time I made it home the battery level has dropped even more like I am running off of battery with no recharge. I also feel I noticed the car which always runs near 185 degree is now around 190 or so. May be coincidental because it is 60 degrees today. I replaced 2 months ago the belt, battery, plugs, oil etc.. Could this be my alternator has gone or generator? If it indeed went wouldn't I have a CEL on all the time? Could it be a bad battery? It is literally 2 months old from Auto Zone? Now the last piece. I have noticed what I perceived as pulley noise from the accessories loop. Nothing serious so I thought. I assumed it was drive pulleys or tensioner and have them on order. Seems like it may be another pulley.. Thank you for taking the time to help out. FYI..I dont have a way of looking at the codes. However there are no lights on now at all.
  13. I am interested in learning what TSB's were issued that effect my car. I have a 2000 C2 Cab. I was told that my vin number can be searched and I could learn which TSB were in fact issued that may impact my car. Under DIY tools I do have access now to the links since becoming a contributing member. But I cant search the 996 TSB for the ones that pertain to my 2000 996. Do I have to go to a dealer to research this? Thanks Tim
  14. How difficult is it for me to change the switch? does it simply pull out? would you happen to know the part number I would need to order? Thanks
  15. Good question. The normal lights all work Loren. Forgive my ignorance here I will try to explain as intelligently as I can. The lights that don't work are the ones that are associated with a PULL on the light switch. It seems to me there are two positions that are offered when you pull the light switch. The first pull engages fog lights with a green indicator displayed in the light switch. The next pull (the one that has problems) turns on what I can only call driving lights? in the rear. This causes an Amber light to display on the light switch. Now when the green and amber indicators are on, the Driver side rear Tail light has one new light that lights up but the other one does not. On the passenger side those two middle bulbs do not light up at all. So one bulb works on the driver side and one does not and the passenger side both bulbs associated with the Amber pull don't light up. I replaced all three bulbs and still nothing. I then took the working bulb on the Driver side and swapped it into the same position on the Passenger side and still nothing. I assumed it was the Harness on both sides that was bad. But could it infact be the light switch? is that easy to replace? how can I test it? Thank you so much for helping me again.
  16. New Bird coming into the rescue. I 3.5 year old male Orange Wing Amazon. Up for adoption. Comes with cage and bowls and toys. Going throught the hormoneal change they all go through at 3.5 years. Beautiful bird. Let me know if you would like to see him.Windy valley Avian rescue.

  17. My 996 has a few bulbs that are not working in the tail lights. Not the required ones like Brake, Turn etc.. I guess these would be the driving lights. anyway I bought new bulbs and this did not help. I then switched a working bulb from Driver to Pass side and still no light. Seems to me the harnesses on both sides are bad. So the gist of my question is this. How can I prove my theory? How do I know it is not deeper into the the rear end harness. Can I use a multimeter somewhere and if so how? also I have square connectors that attach the light harness to the car 3 pins on each side. Does anyone have a diagram as to what the six pins do? Can I test them with a MM and if so how do I do it. Just don't want to drop $300.00 on 2 new harnesses and find out it is something else. Tim
  18. I got out the multi-meter set it to resistance. I noticed on the Coil Pin 1 and 15 are marked. They are the outside 2 pins of the 3. I placed the multi-meter on the pins and it jumped to .03 to .05 then immediately went to 0.00. I cannot get a measurement to stay on any of the 6 I took off. I cant believe they are all bad. The car was running great before I took them off. Any ideas how to get a consistent reading? Positive and negative shouldn't matter right? Thanks
  19. Understood Loren thanks.. One last short one. I am reading 3 different torque specs for Spark Plugs from 15 to 24 in Aluminum heads. Can you give me the definitive answer here for spark Plug Torque?
  20. Thanks Loren for the quick response. I only buy OEM parts so the part number on the 3 new Coil Packs are the same but have now been updated to a new part number by 1. So I assume they are the same resistance? In terms of the high temp silicone grease, do I lightly coat the out side of the Spark Plug Tube with it? not sure exactly what to do there. Also what brand do you recommend for the HT Silicone Grease. Thanks Tim
  21. Question for all of my friends out there. I have a 2000 996 C2 Cab. I do all of the maintenance (within reason) to my vehicle. I am in the process of a spark plug change. Currently I have 64000 miles. I removed the plugs quite easily, I must add after I removed the mufflers, I found three damaged coil pack tubes. Looks like the oil that seeped in due to bad spark plug tubes and upper and lower "O" rings has eaten the rubber tips. I order all new Spark Plug Tubes and Upper and Lower "O" Rings. I will be replacing them on Wednesday. My question to everyone is this. Is it OK to run the 3 new coil packs that I purchased from Pelican along side of the three old ones that were not damaged at all? I really don’t want to spend $130.00 on 3 additional ones unless I absolutely should. Also do the coil packs, that are still in good shape, have to go back over the same Spark Plug tube that they came out of? or can I put them anywhere?. I ask that because I am considering putting the 3 new ones on one side and the 3 old on the other. That way I know exactly what I have to change next month. Last question...Porsche sells Spark Plug Tube grease in a little tube for $47.00. Do I need to lube the spark plug tubes to get them back in the cylinder walls? $47.00 for less than an ounce is pretty steep unless it is a must. If I can use something else in its place what would that be? Thanks so much for all of your help. This forum has really given me back my confidence with my mechanical abilities. Hopefully I will be able to handle my clutch this coming spring. Tim
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