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Molitoth

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About Molitoth

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Missouri
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 Cayenne Turbo
    2000 BMW M-Roadster
  • Former cars
    2004 Saab 9-3 Aero BSR Stage 3
  1. Greetings friends, Lately since the weather has become significantly colder, my 04 CTT has developed an erratic issue when I turn my steering wheel. I have no idea how this car works, but on an older car it would be similar to what your car would feel like when it's running low on power steering fluid. It seems a little bit harder to turn the wheel, and I can hear something when I turn the wheel. This doesn't happen all of the time, it seems to happen on and off. I've tried searching the forum for something similar but I couldn't come up with anything. Any ideas? Thanks!
  2. Thanks RFM. I will go about trying my spare key. It's a shame that it is in terrible condition though.
  3. I replaced the main vehicle battery, as well as the battery in my keyfob. Everyone once in awhile the key will be in my pocket or sitting on the console and I will hear a beep and see "Key not recognized by vehicle" on the display. I think this is when my COMFORT settings get reset. It's been driving me nuts.
  4. 2004 Cayenne Turbo I can browse through my COMFORT settings and make appropriate changes. I learned that to save the changes, you have to turn the key off and press the lock button. I've done this and the settings have changed, although a few days will go by and the settings will all automatically revert back to default. The Auto-Lock feature really drives me insane!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone have any idea why this is happening? Thanks!
  5. Problem Resolved: See this thread. To fix it, I cut about 2 inches of some rubber hose and slipped it over the cracked plastic hose for a tight sqeeze. If I recall it was 1/2" hose. I then put a hose clamp on it and wrapped it with electrical tape. After I found this cracked hose and applied the fix, my Faulty Brake Booster light still came on. I spent another 30 minutes looking around for more cracks and possible problems before I gave up. THEN I took the car for a drive around the block and the error message went away. Very Important: If you have this problem and fix the cracked tube, take your car for a drive!!! Don't waste your time expecting the error message to go away without driving your car around like I did.
  6. This is exactly where my problem ended up being! To fix it, I cut about 2 inches of some rubber hose and slipped it over the cracked plastic hose for a tight sqeeze. If I recall it was 1/2" hose. I then put a hose clamp on it and wrapped it with electrical tape. After I found this cracked hose and applied the fix, my Faulty Brake Booster light still came on. I spent another 30 minutes looking around for more cracks and possible problems before I gave up. THEN I took the car for a drive around the block and the error message went away. Very Important: If you have this problem and fix the cracked tube, take your car for a drive!!! Don't waste your time expecting the error message to go away without driving your car around like I did.
  7. Man those Vredestein Sessanta are nice looking tires, but they also look like they will only last about 12k miles. =( I currently have Bridgestone Duelers which last a rediculas amount of mileage, but I'm not a fan of the tread pattern. I need a happy medium.
  8. I feel your pain. I'm still driving around with this issue, and without replacing all of the hoses 1x1 or taking it to a mechanic that will charge me lots of money I'm kinda stuck.
  9. Thanks for the reply's guys! I haven't had time to dive back under the hood the past week, but as soon as I do I will try and find out more information.
  10. Loren (echo.... echo.... echo....) are you out there my friend? :jump:
  11. Hey all! I recently got this error and have been doing some research. Symptoms: *Brake Booster Faulty code *Brake Booster Master Cylinder? can be heard refilling with Air every time the brake is applied. The most common tube that cracks is not the problem in my case; although I've taken a proactive approach to that problem and stuffed the OEM tube within a rubber tube so that I won't have to worry about it cracking in the future. I've checked around the other tubes and cannot find any cracks, although I did follow a tube to back behind the engine and found that it had completely busted off at the T-connector. Attached are some pictures showing where the T-connector is and the busted off tubing. I used a T-connector I had on hand in rigging the pieces back together hoping it would fix the problem but apparently it has not. When attempting to put the new T-Connector back in, the tube on the left completely broke off (brittle piece of crap) so I had to use other tubes and hose clamps to reduce it back down to size until I could order a new part. My local Porsche mechanic states that any tubes in the vacuum line need to be extremely air tight and they use a sealer on the T-connectors as well as anything else. So I was wondering if you could help me with..... *A schematic showing the tubing I am dealing with *I need to replace the part (hose) in the pic I have labeled with a "???" What is this??? *Any advice? I know the dealer is going to want to charge me near $1000 to fix this dang issue which I think I could easily fix myself and Renntech. Arrow pointing to Aluminum/Rubber hose that connects to T-Connector. Circled section is showing broken T-Connector. A further away shot showing where I am playing...
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