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Sorry for the dumb question, but how do you check the power across the fuse? Also, if it isn't, what would be the cause down the line?
Both the reclining and the up/down/front/back switches are not working on the driver's side only. Fuse (e4 I think) is OK. All the e row fuses are great actually. The switches themselves have been inspected (internally) and appear to be great. I've looked for some reading with my miltimeter, and there is no power whatsoever in the switch plate. I traced the wires from the plate back to the main circuit board. All looked well there. I hit the connections with contact cleaner. Still nothing. I don't want to suspect the circuit board because everything else on the car is working great. Any help would be appreciated.
bump this thread, I am having a very similar issue with my driver seat. Fuse is OK, switches have been inspected (internally) and appear to be great. I've looked for some reading with my miltimeter, and there is no power whatsoever in the switch plate. I traced the wires from the plate back to the main circuit board. All looked well there. I hit the connections with contact cleaner. Still nothing. I don't want to suspect the circuit board because everything else on the car is working great. Any help would be appreciated.
Hey everyone, I need a little help with my carbon canister. It seems that is the cause of my filling-up problems. When I fill my tank, air is not leaving as quickly as it gas goes in, so gas backs up in the neck and causes many problems filling up. I've determined that it's the canister, and have looked at the system. With the hose that goes through the canister connected, I'm blowing on the hose that passes through the canister. there is a ton of resistance, like blowing though a hose with a wadded-up towel in it. A couple things: - The valve to open the passage-way to the outside is working correctly. When the flapper inside the neck hits the trigger, it also triggers the solenoid on the valve and it does in fact move it. This is what led me to the canister itself - I took it out temporarily, and then tried starting the car to see if everything is okay. After about 20 seconds of idling there is a loud clicking/puffing sound that's coming form the area where the 3 hoses DID go into the canister. What would be causing that? - I've been searching for a replacement canister, and I've noticed that mine doesn't have the electronics that plug into it, it JUST has the 3 hoses that go into the top. Nothing coming out of the bottom like all the other canisters for sale that I see. All-in-all I have a few questions: 1. What would that clicking or puffing sound be? 2. Would there be any problem driving without the canister? It seems to be a passive system that the air just passes though 3. If and when I need to replace the canister, what would the part number be of the one without electronics, and JUST the 3 hoses connecting at the top? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks for this, I will try that. The odd thing is that the tab that the bulb sits on has a reading of .02 volts, and the good working side reads .08v. The metal tab surrounding the bulb itself (and touches the side metal case of the bulb) reads 12v exactly on both sides. The thing that's stumping me is that I would think there would either be 12v or 0v on both... not .08 on the good side and .02 on the bad side. Is there a low voltage line going in to the bottom tab? would a .06 discrepancy cause a bulb to not have enough juice to illuminate?
This is a weird one. Let me describe the problem... the left brake light only is out. All other light work great. Bulb is good. Brake switch at the pedal appears to be good (otherwise both would be out I believe). Fuse should be good since it govern's both I think. with both taillight bulb assembelies out of their holder... Used multimeter to read voltage on the metal lines going to the bulbs. BAD Side (drivers) measured 12 volts when brake pedal was down on the metal line that goes to each side of the bulb housing for the metal line that goes to the tab UNDER the bulb, measured 0.02 volts when pedal was down GOOD Side (passengers) measured 12 volts when brake pedal was down on the metal line that goes to each side of the bulb housing for the metal line that goes to the tab under bulb, measured 0.08 volts when pedal was down Conclusions: This is where I am stumped. Both sides are behaving very similarly, except for the metal line that goes to the tab under the bulb. There is a .06 difference, which tells me that the bulb on the drivers side isn't getting enough volts to illuminate. This is odd, since it's such a small voltage, and such a tiny difference. Grounding issue? like it's not tight enough? Where would the ground for this be, and that seems odd since a bad ground would affect more things than just one isulated brake light Loose wire? Could this be the reason that it's not getting enough volts? problem with the housing itself? like the line isn't sending a strong enough signal to the bulb? (housing looks to be in perfect shape, but I don't know about the soldered areas that I can't see) Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.
Thank you for the help, I'll get into it tonight and report back!
Quick question here for anyone whose had to remove the INNER door panel. Can this be done while the door is still closed? Are there any bolts that are directly behind the area where the dashboard meets the door. I'm not by my car right now so I can't take off the driver's door panel to check and see. Also, EleCTriCT, I can reach inside the door and successfully swivel the lock/unlock part, but with no luck actually unlocking the door. I'm assuming something is broken inside the latch mechanism that is preventing the latch to be released when the mechanism is in the "unlock" state.
Update. I found out that the part is the correct one (to the best of my knowledge) it is the following part #: 3B1 837 016 P Right hand side door lock mechanism for cars with M535 Alarm option. So I'm narrowing down my problem to the following: - Improper installation order or setup, like I didn't turn the locking hook to the correct position, or I didn't set the alarm or the door locks to the correct setting before installation, so the car has 2 separate signals from each door, thereby confusing the system - The part I got is faulty, and needs to be swapped out with my old one Regardless of how I move forward, the door is stuck shut. Do you guys think I can jiggle the electronics, activate some kind of car-lock-reset, or anything? Or would I have to take this into a proper mechanic to get the door released? Thanks
Hello All, the switch INSIDE my passenger door lock mechanism failed, the one that tells the car wether the door is open or shut. I replaced it with a used unit that seemed to be the correct part. (see the attached image). After the installation of the new part, I closed the door, and then nothing will re-open the passenger door. Both handles won't work, even with force and banging on the inside. Locking and unlocking repeatedly won't trigger the door handles to successfully open the door. I've disabled and reconnected the battery, and nothing. I took the door panel off while the door was still shut (which was no easy task). This is where I'm currently at. I can't take out the door lock mechanism to put the old one back in because the bolts to take it out are on the outside of the door, which is shut. Does anyone have a good idea as to how to force the passenger door to open? I fear the mechanism I got wasn't for a Boxster with the M535 alarm, and the car doesn't understand that it's there, and therefore won't unlock it. I can revert to my old unit as long as I can get the door open. Does anyone here have thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated. - Matthew