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therock88

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Everything posted by therock88

  1. Makes no difference on 996's etc. If you remove the plastic covers on your 996, you will see that there are already strut supports incorporated into the uni-body construction for that reason. If you like the look of a bar running across your bonnet get one...Otherwise I agree with Loren...Spend your money on something you will actually notice. DC
  2. Do a search here..Discussed many times. It happens regularly on P cars. If it does not persist, probably nothing to worry about. Many times depends on how you drive prior to turning the key off...Normal. DC
  3. Man.....That really sucks! I am sure that did not make you too happy. Unfortunately I am not aware of any repairs that can be done to windshield glass in that fashion. Also, if it is on the driver's side, glass repairers cannot even fix chips if they are in the sweep of the wiper (driver's view). At least they are not supposed to. It appears that you will have to live with it or change it....Unless you can find a glass installer that may be able to polish the glass somehow to reduce the affect?....Worth asking I suppose. Try Safelite, Harmon or one of the other big national vendors. Good luck! DC
  4. Thanks...Appreciate the sympathy.... DC
  5. Hi.......... Very easy to do yourself. The light housing just ops out by pulling on the edge closest to the wheel opening. When it is free, there is one plug that either twists, or has a small clip (push) and it releases. There is your bulb. Pop in a new one and reverse and you are done. About a 5 minute job tops. Bulbs are listed in your owner's manual and available at any parts store. Good luck! DC PS...I attached a diagram image to help you.
  6. Well.... Venting here :drive:......As most of you are aware, Porsche made the Bonnet and door skins out of aluminum to save weight (then interestingly, if any of you have had your battery DIE from sitting up for a week or two noticed that the factory battery seems to weight about 60 lbs.!). So I am driving down the street in my subdivision doing a blazing 32 mph......I hear a loud thump! When I pull in to my garage I realized that a piece of the road (where the expansion joint is...cracks up a little in winter) was thrown up from my front tire and somehow cleared everything but the driver door! Just a small piece (large rock size) put two small dents and scratched off the paint! Not happy! Could not stand looking at the dimples in the smooth shiny black finish, so now have appointment to have it repaired and refinished. What a shame that a small stone can cause that damage... And what Bad luck for me. The body shop I am going to at least is awesome, but will have to refinish a large area to blend in and do it to my satisfaction. I am bummed that I have to do that....But the damage just drives me nuts thinking about it....Maybe I am compulsive?? :)...Hopefully this never happens to any of you! Watch for small rocks or even small chips in the road! DC
  7. Hi There, I would suggest reviewing the information at this link: Click Here You should be able to answer any questions. Tires are relatively complicated and have a variety of attributes that affect ride, tread wear, traction, heat, load range, etc.. Good information at the link above. Ultimately you will want to consider what is right for you, and it will help to know what the tire specs mean. Lots of things affect the ride, including size and aspect ration. The rubber compounds and treadware rating (which I think is what you are talking about regarding hardness of tires??) Basically the tread wear rating is an indication of the rubber compound used and expected life of a tire...Typically harder rubber compounds are less "sticky" but last longer. Softer compounds get "sticky", offer better traction, but leave lots of tire on the road as you drive and thus have a shorter life. The aspect ratio also affects the ride. Keeping width constant at 295 (as in 295 45 ZR 19) the "45" is the ratio which is the sidewall height relative to the width...So....A 295 45 tire has a sidewall height of ~ 133 mm. If you change to a 295 30 series your sidewall will decrease to ~89 mm so less give and harder ride (but better cornering due to the lower sidewall offering less roll)... Hope this helps a little. There is a lot of good info to consider. And ultimately personal preference is key. Good luck. DC
  8. You bet! It is a pretty simple device. If you want to give it a shot it just has a pair of wires that plug into the connector. May have just come undone...Otherwise perhaps a fuse? Or let it ride as you suggested. DC
  9. There was a lot of discussion and debate about this topic on 6speedonline.com. It appears to be more than a simple adding a switch. No one knew of any option to do so. I have it on my 997 TT and it changes shift mapping, throttle response, turbo boost for 10 seconds, delays PTM assistance, and PASM dampens shocks(like a roller skate). I am sure I missed something....But it seems like quite an involved system and not easily added. Search on 6peedonline.com and you will find lots of discussion, with no really good answers. DC
  10. Thanks...Yeah...Go for it. If you need the grill material you can get stainless aluminum or black on eBay at this store Click Here...Probably stainless on your silver car would look nice. It is not that difficult once you get into it. On my wife's, I got it all fastened, then taped it all off and sprayed it with Arctic Silver to match and then heavy clear coat to help with chipping. Also painted the plastic trim to match as well. I like the look, but to each his own... The 996 bumpers come off a lot easier than the 997 and 997 TT. You will likely find a bunch of junk on your radiators...Be sure to separate them too (they are doubled up) and clean between them...There are only about 2 extra screws to do so. Good luck with it, and post a picture if you end up doing it. Best part is, I do not think I will have to do it for a loooong time as the grills should keep all the leaves etc out. I think the look better too...More finished than those big holes with radiator fins showing :) DC
  11. Hi There.... Just an opinion here. Looking at the set up of the car, I do not think any potential buyers would be buying it as a classic, or pristine example of a 1990 (no offense to the car...Just does not look like a garage queen from the photos). So if I were you, and trying to sell it, I would just say what you know...It is a 1990, and here are the pictures, and I have all the receipts since I owned it. Bid accordingly and I have no additional info about the history of 964's and bodies etc. Then just let it go.... Just a thought. Unless someone is trying to buy a collector car....Who cares! :) Good luck.. DC
  12. Hi, If you are in a RHD car, it is on the passenger side in the large air opening. There is a small plastic ring that it snaps into. It does nothing but read the outside temp. so do not worry about it unless it bothers you. I guess if you have any options that use outside temp to turn on (like the heated steering wheel on my Cayenne), it may affect that, but not performance. Attached a diagram for you. DC
  13. Sounds like a great solution! Good luck getting it all put back together so you can "Honk" at the slower drivers :) DC
  14. Any update? Did you change your KEY BATTERY? Any change in condition? Let us know what you come up with.... Thanks, DC
  15. Thanks for the help "rock" and I hope I am uploading this correct but the part number I need is for the female connector that plugs into the "fanfare" horns #1and 2 on the diagram you posted. The dealer said that it shows on the loom and they order it that way by part #. Thanks again. Sounds like that is going to be difficult to find. You mentioned "loom", which I think is the wiring harness...I have attached the passenger wiring harness for the front compartment, as I think that is where the horns are located. Not sure if this is going to help though. May end up trying a salvage yard and splicing?? Good luck. DC
  16. From what I could tell by the VIN from eBay is this: It is a Carrera 2 Coupe Engine Code : M64.01 Transmission Code: G50.03 Order Type: 964340 Four Options ordered: M158 Blaupunkt RENO Radio SWR 46 M454 Automatic Speed Control M494 Additional Amplifier M650 Electrical Sliding Roof Model Year is definitely 1990 from the VIN also. No reference that I can tell about wide or narrow body unless the "340" after the 964 in the order type means something? Not sure if that helps? But that is all I can tell.... DC
  17. Hi, I have attached the part list with the "electronic regulator" highlighted for a 1979 911. May want to verify, but looks like what you may be referring to? Hope that helps you out... DC
  18. Yes...I used a wiring harness. It has been a while, but as I recall I had more luck finding one for a VW Toureg (which worked perfectly). Good luck. DC
  19. I am no expert on Boxsters especially...But I think it sounds like a temperature sensor as well. I had a similar issue with my wife's Cayenne and that solved the problem. Good luck! DC
  20. This should help you..You access these from the lower left stalk. Good luck DC
  21. Not sure exactly what part you need, but looks like you have a 1999 996 C2. I have attached the diagram with all of the horn related parts including the alarm. You should be able to pick the appropriate part from the diagram. Hope this helps..... DC
  22. I would consider the following items as a good start. Just my opinion if I bought it. I am sure some experts here will have other thoughts, so take it for what it is worth. Batteries cause all sorts of crazy issues, and if you are not going to drive it regularly you absolutely need a battery maintainer (get the kind that cycles on and off). I would get a fresh battery to start and would consider changing/checking the following just due to time more than mileage: Change oil/filter 0W/40 Synthetic Change Serpentine Belt (sitting a lot for 6 years...may dry out) Change air filter and cabin/pollen filter Flush Brake fluid completely and replace with new (should occur every two years) Check tires for dry rot/cracking before you get any high speeds Run some injector cleaner and a full tank of premium gas through it (drive it) From there an overall thorough inspection and just watch for any odd behaviors and you should be golden....And a good thorough washing and cleaning will usually uncover lots of otherwise missed potential issues/damage/etc. That should be a good start anyway..... DC
  23. +1 No need to replace all 4. I typically go 2 for 1 replacements of rear to front. As indicated...optimal is to stay with same tire, but as long as the tire characteristics are the same you are fine, even if the brand/style/type are not exact DC
  24. Jack is just holding up the bumper bar while it is removed. Not necessary.....Just one way to hold it as you remove the bolts so it doesn't drop on you.
  25. Hi there... I used a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel...Then filed the edges and then sanded the edges and it came out perfect. I spent a great deal of time with the bumper cover on the ground measuring,drawing and test fitting before I cut it. Take your time and it will work out great! I also attached a PDF with photos for a DIY. This is not my vehicle, but back when I did mine, I found these pictures and they were very helpful for me, so I combined in a PDF. They may not be in order... Good luck! DC Hitch Install.pdf
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