therock88

Probably going to need to be a bit more descriptive on the noise and/or conditions to get help here. What does the noise sound like? What area of the rear? Just at slow speeds, or also at higher speeds? etc.

Hi there.... The ! on the dash could be anything from you need to re-fuel to you need a new engine. You need to have the diagnosstic codes read out with PIWIS or Durmetric to see what it actually is. I would not just buy that it is the brakes.....If they know that by reading the codes, ask them to show you the readout. Good luck. DC

So I have read every thread regarding the Dectane/ Depo 997.2 style LED taillight replacements for the 997.1. It is apparent that the LED's do not give off enough (or any) heat to keep the moisture / condensation / fog out of the clear section in the middle.I started with leaving the unit sealed...and it fogged a little.....I read about taking off the two clear plastic vent caps and fabric to allow them to breathe....I have done that. I try running with them ON and with them OFF just on when braking etc.....Still get fog. It is about 20 - 30 degrees F here, but sucks to spend that much on lights and have no way to keep them from fogging.Some say when they removed the plugs it cleared up...I have not been so lucky. Only driven a handful of times for short distances though...Maybe it needs more time??So the lights are near the engine compartment, which produces plenty of "free" heat. And I am starting to think like a mad scientist now....Would appreciate thoughts on if I just need to wait a bit with the caps off, or if I should start experimenting? And would appreciate thoughts on if my idea would create any other potential issues (it is not fully baked yet)I am thinking of possibly trying to get some tubing the size of the vent holes on the light and trying to see if I can connect one end to the lights and the other somehow in the engine compartment to have heat "pumped" in, in lieu of incandescent bulbs?? Maybe a dumb idea... I am just trying to think of a way to get some heat in there to dry the moisture!??? These are on my 997 Turbo BTW (and look great...except for the occasional fog :))Thoughts, jokes, ideas, solutions, sympathy, etc...AppreciatedTHANKS!!!PS Also posted on 6Speed & Rennlist

Not sure here, but just based on your story, I do not think it has anything to do with your oil change. I am guessing when you changed the shifter you have an issue there. If it is detecting/thinking it is in gear etc, it will likely keep it from starting. I would start by going through all you touched there and ensuring neutral switch and all other connections are replaced properly. At least that is where I would start. There are others on here that likely know a lot more about your specific problem than I do. Good luck! DC

Very Nice! I really like your car...I had one of those as well a while back and it was great...Still air cooled, and a blast to try and change the oil :) I actually bought my Turbo (and wife's last BMW X5) from Isringhausen (Luke Isringhausen to be specific). Great delaership....Peoria is just closer to me and always treat me well....Thanks for sharing...Car looks great....

You are correct! And I know better...Just had a lapse of judgement and a short ride :) And it is putting down even more HP etc now with the Softronic tune and other stuff :) Thanks for the comments....I will have to post up some new pics with the various additions like front DRL LED's and Rear Dectane LED lights...All white LED everywhere else...Sure changes the look! Take care! Donnie PS..Mechanic is at Autohaus Porsche of Peoria...Chad. Great guy, and mod friendly!

Follow up for anyone checking....My dealer mechanic who is a Gold Master Certified Porsche mechanic suggested the combination of cold, slipping (cold) tires and traction control may be what I heard...No leaks or anything and no sounds at any speed accept when it was WOT and all four wheels slipping ..? I will likely get the fluid/filter and both differntial oil changed when it warms up just to be safe....

Hi All.... Haven't posted in a while, but was hoping someone may have some insight/thoughts on a new issue I just encountered. My car has a Softronic tune, and runs great! I have not had it out much due to the lovely Illinois winter....The other day I took it out for lunch...No snow on the ground but some residual salt dust from the last freeze. So I probably did not let the car warm up enought (shame on me)....I drove a short distance and I punched it ( I missed that :))...When the turbos's spooled up the car broke loose all wheels like usual (Tiptronic BTW)...As the wheels started spinning/slipping I noticed a not so good sound (sounded like the rear)...Sounded like popping metal...like something in the drive train was slipping (or even breaking??). Never heard it before?? When I accelerate very hard (but not enough to spin the wheels.....No noise at all...Drive normal or even hard...no noise....Only if I bury the pedal and it breaks looks I hear a few pops/knocks. No other time?? Notes: Car was not completely warm, temperature was in the 30's, salt dust on road, Tiptronic transmission. I called my dealer and left a message for my mechanic to see if he has any thoughts...waiting to hear back. Service guy said it may be due to it being cold (weather and car??) Would love to hear any thoughts on the subject....Without scaring me too bad....I have no warranty any longer :) Thanks

There are a couple of fuses in the panel that will cause this too. Make sure they are all pushed in all the way and have good contact! If certain ones are even loose the car will go nuts! Good luck!

Just a thought here.....Easy solution. Since you just had it done at a dealer...Bring it back to them and let them figure it out? Also, if anyone has ever tried to change the plugs you will appreciate that you cannot check to see if they "are nice and tight" unless you have about 8 hours to kill and still will only be able to reach about 3 of them... I would just take it back to the dealer....Good luck to you!

I have seen a few write-ups elsewhere that indicate these are total hoaxes. I agree with Loren on the possibility to boost that much on a NA with a chip. I doubt you get any boost. Some articles have actually looked at the technology and found the connections they use only power the chip and do nothing for the car performance. Hope that helps for what it is worth. Something else to consider.....For a little more than that kind of horsepower on a 997 TT I spent ~$2500 for a DME tune. Doubtful anything for $69 on a NA car could really do much. Even the 10-20 HP claims seem unlikely. Tunes for 996/997S in that range are still over $1000, and that is under optimal condition... I guess if you feel like trying it, you only risk $69. Good luck, and maybe other have more experience with this? DC

Yes...There are lots of posts about this on the site. Totally normal. If you look in your owner's manual you will also see that the oil consumprion is normal. The smoke happens occasionally on my 997 TT and is normal also. One way to minimize this is to drive the last few miles or minutes easy before parking.....Or when you pull in to the garage, let it run (idle) for a minute or two to run cool oil through the turbos and clean out any lying in the cyclinders...This will not totally prevent it from ever happening, but makes it happen less. Also....When you park them and do not drive them daily since these are boxer engines....gravity works against you! Congrats and enjoy! DC

If you are going to paint these and want it to adhere, I suggest going to a paint supply store and buying a "Plastic Adhesion Promoter". You apply two coats, then primer, then paint, and it will really hold up well. Good luck... DC

Agreed! If you are going to flash it, go for some real HP! There are a number of them available. I have Softronic 93 Octane tune for my 997 TT and love it! Good luck.... DC

Yep...Dealer will likely pop the door open and then replace or fix the latch. I would expect it to be a few hours labor....My Dealer is $138/hr. May just have the arm stuck or fallen off on the inside, so may not need many parts? Good luck! DC

OK....So your key does not have a remote button to unlock the car....It is strictly a physical manual key (with a transponder to disarm the central locking system). I was not aware they had keys that did not actually unlock the car by remote. Regardless...It appears the mechanism is unlocked but the door just won't open, so sounds like you do have a mechanical failure in the door. It will be very difficult due to space constraints to get the door panel off without opening it, but I THINK you can do it. The seat will be in the way as you pop it out, but if you can get to the inner door, you should be able to spring the latch and open it for more work... Here is a link to the DIY on this site for removing a 996 Door panel...Your should be identical or very close: Good luck! DC

Sorry to hear about your bad luck! Sounds like the stuff that usually happens to me! :) On thought: Go to an auto part store and buy a small battery that plugs into your cigarette lighter for the purpose of starting cars when batteries are dead. Leave it plugged in for about 20 minutes and it gives you enough charge to open your hood latch. You may also try this: (A youtube video link). Good luck! DC

Have you tried starting the car with the key? Also, since you put the car away, have you verified the battery is actually good? I would check to verify the battery is actually strong/good. And try to jump the car if necessary to ensure the key works. The second thing I would check is that the battery in the key is not dead. If you have no luck with step 1, pop the key open and replace the watch battery, or try the second key if you have it? One of those should be your issue. If not, you may need to get the key re-programmed to the car. Good luck! DC

I guess Subaru, BMW, Honda, Lycoming, Continental, Ferrai, Lancia, Citroen, et al use(used) different physics? The original question was about the oil usage and the concern of whether or not it was normal. The answer is Yes. It is normal. The responders here gave the original poster good information explaining why and how it is normal. Your posts seem to be more about your opinion of how Porsche designs cars, what oil usage should be etc.. You are certainly entitled to your opinion, but you are not correct and do not appear to be well versed on cars. As for physics (and sarcasm)...Porsche has a different design so "Different" physics apply....Which is why I can add a quart of oil every 1000 miles to my 997 Turbo, and blow away any of the cars you have listed above :) To my knowledge, none of the cars you listed use a flat opposed boxer design engine, so would not have the same residual oil in the cylinder to deal with. Don't get so frustrated.....It is just oil...not blood :) DC

Well...Here you are...It is normal.....Right from the Owner's Manual for 997's, And it is the same for 996 as well:

UPDATE and Thoughts? I flashed the car back to stock (again). Cleared all errors/codes. Disconnected battery for a while (Just for good measure :)). And took for a drive. No CEL. Before I flashed back to stock, I used Durametric to monitor actual values with the car running....Looked at Actual Camshaft deviation on Bank 1 and 2 to compare....At Idle 1 was at about -1.29 and bank 2 stayed at -2.548. The actual angle for Bank 2 went from 0.9 to -15.9 and Bank 1 went from 0.8 to -127.9. Put back to Stock flash and ran again and also put the laptop on the floor and drove the car while logging the values and got the following: Bank 1 0.7 to -41.7 and Bank 2 was about the same 0.7 to -41.2. The deviation was Bank 1 1.17 and Bank 2 stayed at 2.548 both steady. So I am uncertain if these values look normal or?? I am going to flash back to the tuned file after driving a while in stock and see what happens? DC