Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

bala

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bala

  1. Finally figured it out and resolved it. One of the snap on tubes connecting from the fuel pump to the fuel filter had popped out. Guess I didnt snap it on properly. Started right back. Can't believe how clean the fuel tank is. Not a speck of dirt given all that I've read about dirty fuel.
  2. Most dealers won't do it if the key was not for this car. The dealer who sold you might. 150 bucks to program it. But if the dealer gave you the keys then you could request it be made a working one.
  3. Before I take it to the dealer I'd like to try and resolve it if I can. The engine was starting fine before the HPFP replacement. Other work done while I was in there - thermostat replacement, clean valve deposits, sparkplugs. These should not cause the no-fire issue. Battery was disconnected the entire time. Question for you: - Is there any steps I needs to do after replacing the HPFP? - If the tank pump is running does it always mean the fuel supply is fine?
  4. Hi Loren, I did get an error a couple months ago pointing to high pressure sensor ( the one that is attached to the fuel rail) and I replaced it. Is there another sensor I should be looking at? The current codes I see are: B0300 Transmission mount valve 1/2 N262-I-N263 short circuit to B+ Value below lower limit value Can Gateway 12656791/C120917 Both these errors go away when I clear it and come back after a few tries. The Transmission error is something new that just popped. Once I clear the codes the crank lasts long (when turning the key and holding it. Then it suddenly switched to spurts of cranks. Should the new HPFP be coded to the DME like some other replaced parts?
  5. Had some shuddering and engine power issues and replaced the HPFP. Did drain the tank to see if there was any muck in there but it was squeaky clean. Didn't replce the in-tank pump and filter though. Now car cranks with full power and wont fire up. Jumped the fuel pump relay 3+4 pins and still wont fire. Every time I turn the ignition on the pump in the tank is prming and I can hear it run while cranking. What should I be checking before replacing the pump and filter? Only error message that pops up is the reduced engine power after a long crank and goes away when cleared thru durametric.
  6. Here it is sticking it's ugly head out after a frustrating few days of chasing.. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BzNj15TtG1g_VlpzTEpOcDNRRU82cXFFZnRFX2lfZw
  7. Got it out. Blew air from a shopvac and got it to go down towarss the oil sump. Thanks for the advice.
  8. While removing the ribbed middle oil filler tube, i broke the tip of the tube that connects to the engine. I saw one piece fall on the engine and thought the other fell out as well but it was inside the tube. So, when i tried to remove the engine side it dropped into the engine. Tried a shop vac, long wire with gummy tape and no luck. Used a scope with camera and couldn't find it either. Oil is currently drained and the sump plate is off. I tried turning the engine but it didn't fall off. How do I go about locating it and removing it? It's a one inch by 1/2 inch triangular piece.
  9. i had the same problem. if yours was broken where mine was - the channel where the tops tab slides into, then you are wasting your time trying to fix it. it will flex and the tab will come out. But ine was broken and my old top had no issues opening and closing. I got my replacement from an entire asembly. see if any one has a good piece or just order one. From my experience instaling a new one this piece is critical.
  10. CEL was not flashing but steady for quite some time now. Durametric is reporting O2 failure. Ordered and waiting to replace. After I recorded this I replaced the spark plug tubes and the coil tubes. Took for a drive and car was very underpowered. Struggling a lot to go past 70. Disconnected the MAF and it ran like a Porsche. I might have used the wrong can to clean the MAF (thinking electronic cleaner instead of MAF). Anyway I think it's time to replace it. BTW, after the tubes replacement, this pop noises are not there anymore.
  11. My 2000 S 3.2 has been making weird noise on cold startup. This has been happening since I did the throttle body cleaning. It occurs only at cold starts and not when the engine is warmed up. It goes away in about half a minute. During this half minute car idle is pretty rough and then it smoothes out. Below is the link to the audio file in m4a format. Windows media player or apple player would be able to play it. The smoothing out in the audio file occurs around the 30th second. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BzNj15TtG1g_NjU0YTlmNzMtNmNkOC00MWM0LWJkO TEtNzIxNjhiZTE4NmMx
  12. The owners manual is what i do not have so ordered one and will try to match what needs to be in and working. Thanks for your help.
  13. It was the cruise control light on the instrument cluster. The bulb wasn't there. Pulled it from another and put it in and it lit up. Even Durametric stopped reporting the error. Ordered a few 1.2w and 1.5 w. Some bulb receptables are empty. Aren't all of them supposed to have bulbs in them? The right most 4 do not have any. Last one would be the CC one.
  14. Here are the min rotor specs. Mine were just above the min so I didn;t change it but will probably do it next time pads need change. As for the sensors, if the lights didn't come on then they can be reused. But in reality they break when you try to pull them out. Probably due to the harsh conditions they are in. I tried to pull out the new sensor and ended breaking the tabs. Had to put it in with some strong 2 sided tape.
  15. Trying to address this issue on a 2000 Boxster S. Is this pointing me to a non-working cruise light on the dash? Where can I find detailed explanation of this error and the fix? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.