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stumpjumper

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Posts posted by stumpjumper

  1. on my 986s I've finally located an odd squeak that would show up randomly, last night I was able to place it to my left front wheel and for the first few minutes after driving home I could make it sqeak in the garage by moving the wheel slightly

    unfortunately, by the time the time my wife was home to help me locate it while I was at the wheel well the squeak had gone, of course the brakes & wheel had time to fully cool down which makes me think it could be heat related

    the squeak has existed both before and after I did a full disc & pad replacement, including new caliper bolts etc, so I don't think it's in the brake system attachment but perhaps in the tie rod end or toe link?

    so to sum up:

    compressing the suspension does not create the squeak, changing the steering angle does, but only when warm

    any ideas?

    When you turn the steering wheel, you:

    * rotate the joint on the tie rod end that connects to the wheel carrier

    * the wheel carrier rotates around the joint in the lower control arm

    * the top of the strut rotates on the steering bearing that sits up there smashed against the strut mount

    Are the boots on the tie rod end and on the lower control arm still in good shape?

    I wonder if the ball end of one of those is sqeaking as it rotates.

    When they are made, they are packed with grease.

    thanks for replying so quickly

    I need to get the front end up on stands to check it thoroughly, didn't have time for that last night, with it on a jack and having the wheel off I didn't see anything obvious but of course with it just on a jack I wasn't about to start shaking things, I'm hoping to do more investigation this weekend

    edit:

    tonight after the drive home I played some more and now it's squeaking upon suspension compression, (I didn't try last night when it was warm because I had dress pants on) so now I'm thinking it's in part of the strut assembly

  2. on my 986s I've finally located an odd squeak that would show up randomly, last night I was able to place it to my left front wheel and for the first few minutes after driving home I could make it sqeak in the garage by moving the wheel slightly

    unfortunately, by the time the time my wife was home to help me locate it while I was at the wheel well the squeak had gone, of course the brakes & wheel had time to fully cool down which makes me think it could be heat related

    the squeak has existed both before and after I did a full disc & pad replacement, including new caliper bolts etc, so I don't think it's in the brake system attachment but perhaps in the tie rod end or toe link?

    so to sum up:

    compressing the suspension does not create the squeak, changing the steering angle does, but only when warm

    any ideas?

  3. confused about it's contents

    so I've got nearly everything ready, I ordered the entire kit because I misplaced one of the funny rubber plugs that's included along with the foam seals

    included is a large 3 layer piece of "cloth" that has a silver cloth side, a foam interior, and a black cloth side, along with a bunch of velcro, but I have no such piece on my 2002 S, so I have no idea where it goes, it does have a centering notch but all that tells me is that it should be centered :)

    here's a pic of it on a couch, (on top of the gahh roof) the 8 1/2 x 11 inch piece of paper is for size reference

    any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

    post-7727-1255906693_thumb.jpg

  4. my driver's side window has always worked, there had been some wind noise occasionally but never enough to be bothersome

    rarely if using a pressure washer I'd see some water dribble in where the roof and windshield frame come together and form the window seal

    well, this weekend I was caught in a torrential downpour and water was gushing in where the window, roof, and windshield frame meet... ugh

    looking at the two windows it seems the driver's side is about 1/8 of an inch lower than the passenger's side, this leaves a gap right where the three parts meet and it would seem I was just really unlucky with the rain angle coming directly at that gap

    I'd like to adjust the window upward a little so this doesn't happen again but I've got no idea how to do it (I searched, I swear!)

  5. well I got under the car as best I could, it's rattling from inside the header, right near the end of it, close to where the header mates with the rearward converter's pipe

    no loose welds, just a high pitched rattle when I bang it with my hand, very loud when I bang it with a rubber mallet, loud at startup, getting very loud when the car gets hot

    sucky, I don't know whether to spend the money on an aftermarket setup or on a replacement

  6. my passenger side headlamp will ignite fine, but I'll be driving along and for no discernible reason it will go dim, the fog lamp, turn signal, and the little mini white lamp that fills in the white behind the xenon bulb all stay lit

    then, I can switch the xenon bulbs off, and back on, and they'll both come on just fine

    could my ballast be going? or maybe just a loose contact?

    It could be or as you suggested, or the lamp but they last for a LONG time...

    ... maybe I'll swap the bulbs from one side to the other to check the bulbs

  7. my passenger side headlamp will ignite fine, but I'll be driving along and for no discernible reason it will go dim, the fog lamp, turn signal, and the little mini white lamp that fills in the white behind the xenon bulb all stay lit

    then, I can switch the xenon bulbs off, and back on, and they'll both come on just fine

    could my ballast be going? or maybe just a loose contact?

  8. I found my rattle, and I killed it

    around the rear cat, on the side where it has the 70ish degree bend, there are 2 pieces of steel welded around the bend, these pieces float around the pipe and are only welded to the canister, using a rotozip and a metal cutting wheel I cut through the welds and removed these pieces, the canister and pipe are still 100% intact

    the weld on the inside of the bend (the smaller weld) was broken, and this is what would rattle as it heated up, now there's no rattle at all and the car sounds very different... I forgot what it was supposed to sound like

    • Thanks 1
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