stumpjumper

My problem is when I wear my polarized sunglasses the center computer LED display (the one in the tach) is very dark. I don't have this problem with the LED displays on the speedometer or fuel guage clusters. Experimenting around I realized that the polarization on the center computer LED display is 90 deg out of phase with my sunglasses resulting in the lack of visible light reaching my eyes. The side displays are in phase with my sunglasses so their light is at a readable intensity.

First question, is the polarization part of the tach lense or is it part of the actual LED display?

The second more important question is there a way to fix this aside from not wearing polarized sunglasses or turning my head sideways? For instance if the polarization is in the guage lense can it be rotated and if so how?

BTW this is on a MY04 boxster S.

Thanks.

Ken

mine do the same thing, I just ignore it, if I really want to see the readout I tilt my head (very technical fix, I know...) :)

OK, it's 100% surely the rear passenger side cat, it appear to be the sleeve that ocblubox mentioned

ok so a little update

the heat shields weren't it, so I got annoyed and started whacking the hot exhaust with a rubber mallet, narrowed the rattle down to the passenger side cat/elbow for sure, but it was still too hot to touch so I let it sit and was going to come back and put it on ramps to search

to my dismay it won't rattle when it's cold!

tonight I'll try again, putting it up after the drive home and searching better, if I find anything I'll take pics... now where's that oven mit

any chance I could get flap #2 numbers for both sides, plus the screws and clips for it and #1?

and a question about flap #2, it wraps around the entire hole in the front and looks kinda like a V doesn't it? mine were torn off by a speedbump so I can't tell for sure if it's 1 part or 2

both of those scenarios sound wonderful...

yay for 1 more year of CPO

yuck

time to go back under the car!

2002 box s

so I've got a rattle, unmistakable metal rattling sound, that I can hear bouncing off walls and whatnot when accelerating or decelerating, but only when there's resistance (it doesn't happen in neutral when stopped, I can only hear it when moving and in gear)

so I put the car up on ramps and thought I found the rattle in the rear most passenger side cat heat shield so I removed both the rear cat's shields, screws, and the clips they screw into

turns out this was making some noise, but not the one I heard :(

are there shields around the forward cats too? or maybe the headers? I haven't put the car back up to look but every time I drive I hear this and it's bugging me!

So anyone knows what's the best way to remove that plastic bit highlight in yellow? :lightbulb:

to get that off remove the wiper blade arms, then look along the plastic toward the outside of the car for a circle cut out covered by a cap, pop off that cap to see the bolts holding it down, there's 1 on each side, then with the trunk up, work the plastic out from from underneath the trunk lid

I had the Boxster in the shop today (not a dealer but Porsche only shop) getting the CV Boots replaced. I mentioned that when backing the car up I hear a rattling .

The culprit as many has said, heat shield bracket. This was the heat shield on top of the cat, drivers side. The bracket that the bolts go into had rusted out on one side and the bolt had nothing to attach to. He said the only choices:

1. Get a new cat $$

2. Fab a new bracket, just as costly

3. Let it rattle

The mechanic removed the heat shield saying there was nothing vital there and would not cause any issue.

Now part of me says there is a need since Porsche bothered to put it there. Part of me says they are reputable, they would not do anything to cause damage to my car.

Thoughts, advice?

take the shield off and then cut the rattling bracket off the cat, you should be fine without the shield

I would pay a wheel refinishing shop to do this for you, re-torquing incorrectly can lead to wheel bends or worse, improper use of loctite can also lead to worse... worse being the wheel separates while driving and you crash

it's a "simple" process sure, but doing it a little wrong can be catastrauphic

Hi folks,

Near the end of my drive into work this morning I found that my clutch pedal is making a creaking noise every time I press it.

The drive was through heavy traffic so the pedal got a lot of action. The noise is moderately loud and only happens when pressing the pedal (so not when I lift my foot). The action of the pedal feels exactly the same, and the car feels the same to drive.

So, I'm just wondering if anyone knows whether a creaky clutch pedal is a symptom of another problem, or if I have no reason to be concerned.

Also, I think the car is using its original clutch, after 48K miles and 7 years - might that be relevant?

Ta,

Paul

2.5 1999 Boxster

it's almost definitely the booster spring, they are plagued with squeaks, you can either remove it and lubricate it yourself (easy) or just flat out remove it, most people that do this find that they like the clutch feel better without the spring

if you search in the 996 forum I think there's a guide on removal, it takes about 15 minutes and even though you're on your back with your head at the pedals it's pretty easy to do

I drive my 2002 S every day, winter too, I've got a hard top and snow tires for it, I also put about 18k/year on it and aside from the inside of the rear tires wearing out quickly it has worked out fine

the only real problem with commuting is how low the nose is and how peppered with sand/grit it gets, but so long as it's not a black car (mine is) you won't notice that for a few years

the nice thing is that I love driving the car, so it makes the commute less of a pain

thanks guys,

I bled them just in case and it seems OK

I'm wondering if it's because I dropped it off when it was 50 degrees and picked it up when it was 85 degrees... the tires are a little stickier now so they don't slide as easily... oh well, it seems fine

turns out the clutch pressure plate, that was replaced to save me labor later, was bad from the start, they put a new one in today and it's happy, no squeak at all :)

dealer gave my car back today, and while hunting for a squeak they replaced the master cylinder, and well, on my 15 mile drive home the brakes felt worse than I remember

now, I've been out of the car a week so it could be that, but I'd just flushed the brakes with ATE super blue and remember the pedal being rock hard and easily being able to lock the brakes if I tried, but now the pedal feels softer and it seems to take longer to stop... my gut says there is air in the lines but before I go accusing them and demanding that it be fixed (or just doing it myself) I figured I'd ask if it's possible

I know the systems are integrated and use the same reservoir, but I don't have a diagram to see how the lines are run for the clutch

thanks ahead of time Loren

dealership has had it for a week now, supposedly 3 techs on it today (thank you CPO)

so far, to fix this squeak, it's had a new throw out bearing, new master cylinder, a spring that was described as going into the cylinder near the clutch bleed port (I don't know which that is) and something else

while I love the new parts, I'm not happy that they're throwing parts at the problem, since it means they're just guessing

Type of tires and how many miles you have on them make a huge difference for noise. Rear Michelin PS2 tires replaced after 28K miles on our 997 made the car much much quieter inside

28k miles out of ps2's? were you on the cords?

I'd consider myself lucky to get 1/2 that!

link?

I got it from amazon, I bought the smaller 1,2,3 kit

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/104-3...o.y=0&Go=Go

I've got Perelli P Zero tires

That there's the problem

Had them on my 01' S, they were so noisy it was unbelieivable, I also heard a sort of howl come from them at times

If the noise bothers you, replace the tires with yokahama's or a more quiet breed of tire

I wouldn't put Yoko AVS on, they get even louder as they wear

The newer style release lever was installed beginning in April 2000 so you should have the newer one.

I guess it could still be bad...

eh, I'll bring it up, the tough part is that it's quiet when cold, and I think they let it sit after I brought it in so it'd be cool to work on, instead of throwing it on the lift and listening for the noise

I know they'll get it fixed, it's just annoying now that it's finally nice out here :)

What model year is your car?

There was a TSB for some MY99 and older cars that had a bad clutch actuator arm (it squeaked).

2002 box s, sorry about that

had a little bad luck, standard warranty rms replacement, opted to put a new clutch plate in a little early to save labor later

got the car back, no drips what so ever, clutch feels like a new clutch should, and when the car is cold it's quiet like it always was... but when it warms up it squeaks like a bedspring in a porno flick

so they just replaced the throw out bearing to fix that squeak (on their apologetic dime no less) and the silly thing still squeaks once it's warmed up, so I'm confused, and worse yet they're confused

anybody ever had this happen?

Most of the Porsche fluid is ATE.

It's like spark plugs - sometimes when you get Porsche spark plugs they are Bosch and sometimes they are Beru. Bottom line is both vendors are "approved by Porsche".

thanks Loren, as always, you rock :)

I have discussed the feature with the Durametric folks - but it has not yet been implemented.

ATE Super Blue has the same properties as ATE Typ 200 (gold) -- it is just blue in color.

I would not worry about the small amount of left over fluid.

I just emailed them this morning too :)

I know about the ATE, but this would be my 1st time flushing and I have to go on the assumption that it's Porsche fluid (I checked it when I bought and it had just been flushed, fluid was clean and gold)

so it was the mixing of Porsche and the ATE that had me worried :)

I doubt both your horns failed at the same time.

while that's probably true, it's possible that one has been bad awhile and the other just failed