ekstroemtj

this weekend i had to make a trip. almost 1400 km. most of them highway. what i can say, the power is back after replacing all this turbo related pipes. the car is running not bad at higher speed. almost quiet. but there is still this terrible hesitation during accelaration . before the trip i had a look under the car. i remember the phrase, if there is a problem go back to the place you was working before. i remember when all this trouble started and i had to take out the air hose on the driver side, the pressure hose which is going out of the turbo direction intercooler was not very much fixed. that time i was thinking maybe it should be like this. now i know it isnt. when i crowl under the car this weekend i inspect this metal hose which is connected with the turbo charger. the gap between the 2 pipes is to big i believe. have a new seal. wanted to change but isnt easy to get access without removing lots of parts arround. the 2 pipes are connected with a clip. the clip is open on one side. does anybody know in which way it has to be installed?

Yes there is a relation between. Idle, rpm and shifting is all togehter. Maybe some of the professionals here can explain how. but my own experience is showing this very clear.

As i remember you was working on the air tubes some days ago?!

Are we talking about these parts?

If you did not touch anything else on the car it realy could be the only reason. There are some screws difficult to reach, maybe they are not tight. Try if all air hoses and vac pipes are connected well.

Could be a air leak with the gaskets you changed. More notable at rpm' s before turbo charger is kicking in. I have something similar and it occurred after my service guy did the same work like you did now

I continue to work on finding the cause of my hesitation. Started to replace a lot of turbo related pressure pipes. On the firewall everything arround the change over valve. Everything arround the N75 valve arround the intake y pipe. Pipe which is going down to the wastegate. Just the passenger side. Driver side looks difficult. Car is running with every step a little bit better but its not perfect.

Lower miles- more expensive still a risk something can happen in the future higher miles less expensive Save the money for rebuild if necessary just my opinion

I know JFP. There is a ongoing discussion about the way how to do it

Long story short. Lot of engine rebuilders and even companies which doing engines for motor racing using steel sleeves now. They say, the only way to get rid of this problem.

This is the result if you use a translation app. Sorry cant do it more fast now: Problems Lokasil operating jacks Porsche Boxster 2, 5L-2, 7L-3, 2L-Carrera 996 3, 4L-3, 6 L, as well as Carrera 997 3.6-3, 8 L Description of the problem of the original Lokasil cylinder coated careers, experiencing the first water-cooled engines, from my point of view and 40-year-old Porsche Porsche. The engines we have repaired again during our activity approximately 380 pieces, about 70% have problems with the soft aluminum Lokasil cylinder raceways, the motor housing. Defective engines of this type was partly just read 21,000 km, the vehicles were information first-hand, the credible km... Despite again exchanged cylinder raceways or motor housing, these engines "again not long life expectation." had to soft aluminium Lokasil Everything has brought nothing to attempts with only sliding coating of the piston. Guarantees of service type-setter often already expired customers after relatively short life his engine "again" the loser. This old generation of cases are no longer installed in the new Porsche models. Why probably? Check the forums, what problems do these first water-cooled models. Many models available 996/997 or Boxster engine already 3 or 4. While motor housing hardly worn be used this way, get around as good as no longer given piston distance of 0.04 mm average. Our long experience has shown (painful and very expensive), already with a higher piston distance of 0,02 to 0, 03 mm engine knock making noise the piston tilt, the sharp edges of the piston rings this race very soft damage Lokasil cylinder and it comes other piston eater, scratches and cracks in the cylinders after a short time. In most cases, bearing housing, which runs the camshafts in the cylinder head, crankshaft and bearings so then through the resulting chips are the crank. New price of crankshaft with over 6,400 euros housings, cylinder heads 4,700 euros. Such repair is then hardly any cost to make relevant. You will need a replacement engine factory. The cost is around 18,000 euros. Has but again only the fragile aluminum Lokasil cylinder...! We know vehicle owners from 996, Boxster, the 4th replacement engine in the vehicle have been. Even under the guidance and support provided by the manufacturer, piston Schmid, whose technical info and advice could we really stable and long-lasting engines with aluminium Lokasil cylinder worked. (We're talking 250,000 km and more, just as the first air-cooled engines, which also very long, steel cylinders in aluminium, much higher turned coat, that today we again use) These were engines that Porsche had won at all racetracks in the world. Of course, this old proven processing for the 987 is very expensive but also very durable 997 engines for us, 996, the price is only possible via the large quantities that we produce now.) Aluminium Lokasil not so as expected keep the original ENGINES of the first series. Of 10 experienced Porsche companies make no water-cooled problem more 8 motors, we were also to give up. 3 warranty 2 years that no one has revised 10 Lokasil engines. Then we have the Council steel cylinder, as in racing to try. Exactly what Porsche successfully cylinder jacks used has built for many years without any problems, air-cooled engines on steel! (Admittedly very complex and) expensive for series production) Ok. We, the last test thought (very expensive). After several attempts under the guidance of "We shot" multiple engines to the test again, until we had the correct cylinder alloy, which determines proper film play coating and the right piston, etc and also tried. The result of the last 146 engines built no backscatter! This was the BREAKTHROUGH for us then finally, finally! According to many, ceramics trying better stopped, as anything other than nickel, chrome. We're talking durability not by short-term high extreme loads the first 20,000 KM here used in racing, but then renewed after each use. IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Cylinder coatings, there are hundreds, also nickel O. ceramic, these coatings are approximately 0.05 mm up to 0.10 mm and hardly the career of cylinder cylinder against high pressures to strengthen aluminum and very often occur cylinders as they only on the first water these recurring cracks in alloy-cooled engines. Our steel, the Zylinder(Legierung), which is tried and tested for years at the top of the cylinder pressure range (shooting). 7 mm thick! about 700 to 1,400 times thicker than one can cope with thin, only coated aluminum cylinder and thus experience much better high pressure. AND this is important when the Porsche 986, 987, 996, 997, etc motor. I tell you, if you have worked 15 years in the Porsche, 15 years have made race you year cooled motors start over again in the 30th with the extremely dangerous water! We use only modified intermediate shaft, there are always problems to other intermediate shafts as the original intermediate shaft with the. Our intermediate shafts are much more durable. In addition, we've changed the oil pump! Supplement for oil pans extension! (In our opinion that is just as important as the other engine improvements, if not even more important!) We had the result with the last 146 outdated Motors no motor more intermediate shafts or piston damage. After consultation with our customers even after the performance of over 200,000 km. Therefore has management decided to give guarantee everything is lubricated by oil circulation now 3 years and 35,000 KM! This is not the statutory warranty. We offer you a completely new Ausgebuchstes 3, 4L, 3. 6 L or. 3, 8 L also exchanged Boxster engine case with revised cylinder head, crankshaft, smooth coated piston with our guaranteed fresh polished new dimension of the camshafts, cylinder engine block completely together, after each request on request. "New cylinder Groove" type GT3. These liners simply have no more problems as its predecessor models, the technology and experience. & Gt; Finally, NO soft aluminium LOKASIL cylinder & lt; But steel cylinder as the racing version!

I will try to translate later

Here the report if someone is familiar with german language. He is talking about the engines in general but our cayenne blocks are made in the same way- similar problems. http://theimann-motorengmbh.de/index.php/2015-10-28-16-06-53/problembeschreibung

Yes! There is a need to be protected for future damages and what i hear and what i read a new block from porsche or a used one is not a solution. If you search in the forums you can find a lot of information. There are different ways how to do it. I am living in germany and had a lot of talks with guys who ( i believe) have deep knowledge of porsche engines. Its not only the cayenne. Other models too. There is a very interesting report from a well known porsche tuning company. If it was not german language i would post it here. i will try to translate

Multimeter i have. Ok. Will give it a try. Have to crowl under the dash tomorrow to see if i found the places where to measure. thank you again

Thank you bigbuzuki. Thats the point when i have to give it to a specialist. I dont have any glue about cars electric systems.

Dont want to say anything wrong about these cars but it happens quiet often. Design of the engine. I have the same problem. Happens from one day to next. At least i can remember the day it happens. A used engine isnt a solution. Risk is to high it will happen again.

I have changed the cable but unfortunately didnt change the problem. :-(

It would not be my first choice to get it apart but you could try with a screw driver Go into the gap which is already there or use a coin. Try. Or like you say you want to disconnect it from the turbo. I had to do it because my air hose was broken. little bit more work. Take away all the plastik protection under the car. Or you take away the wheel well liner to get access to this place. Lewis would say.... when you are there you can check the connections of your DV and the tubes and hoses arround for any visible leaks or damages.

On your picture you marked it with a red arrow. Thats the place where its seperated. You can use a bit force. Important you gran one hand where the MAF is and your other hand directly where the clamp is sitting. Wiggle. On your picture its already open a bit. Maybe stick it together and try again.

I did the same many many times in the last weeks. And yes if you are using to much force you can brake the hose where the flex part is starting. Best way you take one hand one the part which is flexible and orher hand to the part where MAF is sitting. You need to wiggle a bit and it will go apart. You can use a bit of WD40 on the place where the hose clamp is. Makes it more easy.

Mark... just read your old post. I am hunting for my overboost reason. You mention water temp gauge can be a culprit. I bad thermostat too?

bigbuzuki... thank you very much. I will try this. Should be easy to replace. Will report the result

Its not a matter of low voltage. I have 2 new batteries. Driving arround without problems but: the "P" problem still excists. no illumination on the shifter for selected gear. according some forum members i need to check the wiring under passenger carpet for broken or bad wires.

Great job! According your post and the pictures i understand you replaced only the broken sections? Not the entire line from N75 to wastegate?!